Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Hanamaki JR Station 花巻駅, Future City Galaxy Earth Railway Wall Painting 未来都市銀河地球鉄道壁画

Witnessed the sky turning into an alluring ombre pink during sunset at Hanamaki JR Station.

Hanamaki JR Station 花巻駅, is located along Tohoku main line 東北本線 and the terminus station on Kamaishi line 釜石線. The nearest Shinkansen station from here is Shin Hanamaki JR Station 新花巻駅 which is situated two train stations away on Kaimaishi line. As Hanamaki city is the hometown of Miyazawa Kenji, a late Japanese poet and children's literature author, you will find numerous monuments, display boards and museums here, built in memory of this well loved local writer whose literacy works continue to touch the hearts of future generations after his passing.

Sightseeing trains (as of 5 Feb 2019) serving this train station include:
(1) SL Ginga SL銀河, a steam locomotive sightseeing train which commutes between Hanamaki and Kamaishi, stopping by Shin Hanamaki 新花巻駅 and Tono 遠野駅 via Kamaishi line. This special themed train is only in operation on weekends and public holidays.
https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/galaxysl.html

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus stops, just in front of the train station East/Higashi Exit 東口.

- East Exit Platform 2 for buses to Miyazawa Kenji Dowa Mura / Miyazawa Kenji Fairy Tale Village 宮沢賢治童話村 and Miyazawa Kenji Muesum 宮沢賢治記念館:
Board Iwate Kotsu Bus 岩手交通バス Dosawa line 土沢線, heading for Shin Hanamaki Station 新花巻駅, and alight at Miyazawa Kenji Kinen Guchi 宮沢賢治記念口.
Bus journey takes approximately 17 minutes and the fare is 420 yen.

- East Exit Platform 4 for buses to Hanamaki Onsen 花巻温泉 and Dai Onsen 台温泉:
Board Iwate Kotsu Bus 岩手交通バス Hanamaki Onsen line 花巻温泉沢線, heading for Hanamaki Onsen and Dai Onsen.

Iwate Kotsu Bus Dosawa line Schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/hanamaki_tiku.html

Was curious to know what this mural will transform to when night falls...

Seeing is believing. Look at how stunning this wall painting is!

(2) Future City Galaxy Earth Railway Wall Painting / Mirai Toshi Ginga Chikyu Tetsudo Hekiga 未来都市銀河地球鉄道壁画, about 5 minutes walk from the train station East / Higashi Exit.
Upon exiting from the train station, turn left and follow the pedestrian footpath till you arrive at a 10 m tall and 80 m long concrete wall.
Operating hours: From sunset till 2200 hrs
https://www.kanko-hanamaki.ne.jp/spot/article.php?p=140

Surreal. This wall painting inspired by Miyazawa Kenji's popular novel named Ginga Tetsudo no Yoru 銀河鉄道の夜 (Night on the Galactic Railroad) was my main objective of coming to Hanamaki JR Station. As the entire picture was painted with glow-in-the-dark luminous ink, a magical transformation awaits at night. As the sun sets, the UV flood lights are shone onto the wall to bringing the entire picture to life! I was extremely fascinated by the beautiful pictorial representation of trains travelling along the milky way, just like how it was depicted in the novel, and I could not take my eyes off this surreal image. This was also an excellent prelude to SL Ginga (a sightseeing steam locomotive steam also inspired by the novel) which I took on the following day. 

(3) Marukan Building Daishokudo マルカンビル大食堂, a food court located on the 6th floor of the former Marukan Departmental Store. About 10 minutes walk from the train station East/Higashi Exit 東口.
Operating hours: 1000 - 1830 hrs (last order at 1800 hrs); Closed on Wednesdays
https://www.kanko-hanamaki.ne.jp/gourmet/article.php?p=384

Surprise combination. It was through a casual conversation with a local I met at Genbikei 厳美渓 that I got to know about Marukan マルカン, a local retailer which originated from Hanamaki city. When I was seeking his advice on food recommendation in Hiraizumi and Hanamaki (two other places I planned to explore for the rest of the day), he asked me whether I have eaten a soft serve using a pair of chopsticks. Was baffled by his question because I could not comprehend why do I need chopsticks to do so. After he showed me a photo of the soft serve on his smart phone, I could better visualise the need to do so. This particular soft serve sold in Marukan Building Daishokudo has a total of ten twirls, already making it taller than the conventional ones. Despite the greater volume of soft serve, each cone is unbelievably priced at 180 yen, which is way much cheaper than those I have eaten before in Japan (typically between 300 - 400 yen)! Due to its large size, the soft serve cone is placed in a cup when served and the locals have acquired a special skill of conquering this popular dessert, simply by using chopsticks. Regrettably, I was not able to pay Marukan a visit to try this legendary soft serve during my stay in Hanamaki that time. Hopefully I will get to fulfill this unfinished mission on subsequent trips to Japan!



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Commemorative stamps: 

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Maesawa Ogata 肉料理 おがた

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)

The best. Looking back, if I have to choose one meal that like most when I was exploring Tohoku region, I will without a doubt cast my vote on Maesawa beef 前沢牛. It was by pure coincidence that I got to know about Maesawa beef from a local whom I met and had a casual chat with earlier in the day. I was seeking his advice on food recommendation in Hiraizumi and Hanamaki and he proposed two which are of opposite extremity in terms of price. One was Marukan's 10 twirls soft serve cone which is unusually eaten with a pair of chopsticks and affordably priced at only 180 yen. The other one was Maesawa beef which was steep in price but the experience was definitely bang for the buck. This sparked my interest to taste how good this top grade beef was. Eventually curiosity got the better of me and I made my way by train to Maesawa-cho 前沢町 after visiting Hiraizumi 平泉 (the train stations are adjacent to each other) to get my first hand experience on this legendary beef!

Branded. Maesawa beef is an esteemed brand bestowed to a limited number of cattle every year, based on a set of stringent criteria. In Okushu-shi 奥州市 (where Maesawa-cho 前沢町 is located in), the favourable environmental conditions experienced makes here an excellent breeding ground to rear top quality cattle and Maesawa beef is one of three distinguished brands originating from this city (the other two being Iwate Okushu beef いわて奥州牛 and Esashi beef 江刺牛). Followed the local's recommendation and came to Ogata オガタ, which is situated about 7 minutes walk away from Maesawa JR Station 前沢駅. Ogata has both retail shop and restaurant selling Maesawa beef and obtains its meat supply from Kogata Farm 小形牧場. I arrived at the restaurant slightly after 5 pm and was the first customer for the dinner service. Without much hesitation, my decision was made after a glance of the menu. Ordered the yakiniku ajikurabe set meal 前沢牛焼肉味くらべ膳 which is ideally created for diners who want to compare the taste of three different grades of Maesawa beef. This lavish set meal comprised of 50 g of top grade marbled beef 上霜降焼肉, 50 g of marbled beef 霜降焼肉, 50 g of lean meat 赤身焼肉 and served together with salad, soup and rice [3,780 yen].

Mesmerised by the marbling on the beef.

Presenting Maesawa beef Yakiniku Ajikurabe zen 前沢牛焼肉味くらべ膳.

Heavenly. When the tray of food was placed in front of me, my eyes were completely drawn to the beautiful and elaborate marbling on the red meat. This was also my first time seeing a marbling pattern occupying a significantly larger area then the lean portion of the meat. Though I am far from being a meat connoisseur and could not accurately distinguish the differences between the various types of meat, I can exclaim that the taste of Maesawa beef is definitely way more superior than other beef I have eaten before. The sensation of beef "melting" in the mouth due to lower melting point of the white fats marbling left me in amazement and my tastebuds were completely conquered by the sweet and rich flavours of the meat. At a comfortable pace, I cooked the luxurious slices of meat carefully to around medium state to retain its tenderness and meat juices. The "unami" feeling escalated with every slice of meat I savoured and it made me craved for more. This may sound exaggerating, but I will describe this dining experience as "heavenly" and truly one of the best I had ever had in my entire life. Apart from yakiniku or BBQ, diners can enjoy either Maesawa beef or Kogata Farm beef in other cooking styles such as sukiyaki, shabu shabu or grilled steak here in Ogata.

本当に美味しかったです。

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Maesawa Ogata 肉料理 おがた
〒029-4204 岩手県奥州市前沢向田1-22
Operating hours:
- Lunch: 1130 - 1500 hrs (last order at 1430 hrs)
- Dinner: 1700 - 2100 hrs (last order at 2030 hrs)
Closed on Wednesdays.
https://maesawagyuogata.com/fr/3

Maesawa beef, a symbol of the town.

How to get there?

(1) By foot. About 7 minutes walk from Maesawa JR Station East / Higashi Exit 前沢駅東口.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Kozenji Cafe コゼンジカフェ

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)

Famished. Returned to Hirazumi JR Station 平泉駅 after visiting Motsuji 毛越寺 and Chusonji 中尊寺, both named as UNESCO World Heritage sites. On Day 2 of my solo trip in Tohoku region, I was surviving on intermittent snack breaks while travelling between various sites and did not have a proper lunch. Considering the amount of distance walked that day, I was already drained and famished, and I still have one more attraction to cover in the evening (Future City Galaxy Earth Railway Wall Painting / Mirai Toshi Ginga Chikyu Tetsudo Hekiga 未来都市銀河地球鉄道壁画) Decided to reward myself with some decent food and I eventually had an unforgettable dinner of Maesawa beef at Ogata オガタ. Prior to that, I had to satisfy my sweet tooth. Followed the recommendation on co-Trip travel guide book (featuring Kakunodate, Morioka, Hirazumi, Hanamaki and Tono) to Kozenji Cafe, a gelato shop located along Riku Highway 陸羽街道 and within walking distance from the train station. The standalone, single storey cafe is easily identified by its large signboard with purple background and a conspicuous purple coloured ice cream truck parked in front of the building.

Blueberry galore! Kozenji Cafe is a gelato specialist that aims to create their ice cream from fresh ingredients, either cultivated by themselves or sourced from local suppliers. In fact, their signature and most popular blueberry flavoured gelato is produced from fruits harvested from their farm (between Jun and Sep). Just blueberry flavour alone, they have five different combinations/types to offer - blueberry milk, blueberry sherbet, blueberry cream cheese, blueberry yogurt and blueberry white chocolate. Being a fan of this fruit, I stood in front of the display freezer, eyes shuffling between the tubs of alluring looking purple gelato and was totally spoilt for choice! Apart from their top selling blueberry, you can also choose from a variety of flavours such as milk, scorched caramel, pumpkin and rum raisin, black sesame and milk, mulberry leaves accompanied with azuki beans, etc.

Yumm-ilicious. Made up my mind and ordered a blueberry parfait ブルーベリーパフェ [500 yen] which came with three delectable scoops of gelato - blueberry milk, blueberry sherbet and cream cheese, topped with handmade blueberry jam, strawberries and whipped cream, all contained in a freshly made crispy waffle bowl. I was amazed by the tangy and refreshing essences unleashed by this tiny little fruit. Love the smooth and creamy texture of the blueberry milk gelato; the sherbet version tasted more citrusy and it felt like I was sinking my teeth into the whole fruit itself. The handmade blueberry jam, with whole fruits in it, is to die for and enhanced the overall sweetness of the parfait. I have to say I fell in love with Kozenji Cafe and their delicious gelato; how I wish there is such gelato shop nearby my house (and also such wonderful handmade blueberry jam which I think will go extremely well with waffles)!

Another parfait please!

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Kozenji Cafe コゼンジカフェ
岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉字樋渡50-2
Operating hours:
- May - Oct: 1000 - 1800 hrs
- Nov - Apr: 1030 - 1700 hrs
- Closed on Mondays * If public holiday falls on Monday, it will be closed on Tuesday.
http://www.kozenji-cafe.com/

How to get there? 

(1) By foot. About 10 minutes walk from Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅

Complement. Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅, is a train station on Tohoku main line 東北本線, located in Hiraizumi-cho 平泉町, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Chusonji 中尊寺 and Motsuji 毛越寺 are two prominent places of worship and "symbolic manifestations of the Buddhist Pure Land on this earth". In conjunction to this prestigious title conferred in 2011, the current train station building underwent renewal works in the same year. Brown was chosen as the main colour theme to complement / blend into the quaint town. Walls were replaced by louvers and grills to enhance the overall aesthetic effect; exquisite artefacts and decorative items were put on display in the train station and the striking, gold coloured kanji characters on the main nameplate was inspired by Konjikido 金色堂, the golden hall of Chusonji.

Other info:
- Nearest Shinkansen station is Ichinoseki 一ノ関駅, which is two stations away.
- One train station away from Maesawa 前沢, a town well known for its award wining high quality beef (Maseawa beef 前沢牛).

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What’s nearby?

(1) Tourist information center 観光案内所 and rental bicycle shop
There are two of them: one housed within the train station and the other which can be identified on the right side upon exiting the station building (Hiraizumi Ekimae Information Center). There is also a rental bicycle shop just beside the information center - provides alternative means of transportation to tour the area at a leisure pace.

(2) Bus stop in front of train station.
There are several bus services which are operated by Iwate Ken Kotsu 岩手県交通 available at the door step of Hirazumi JR Station. The public transportation here is excellent as it covers prominent places of interests, such as Chusonji, Motsuji in Hiraizumi, and Genbikei and Geibikei in Ichinoseki.
- Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run 平泉巡回バス 「るんるん」
This is a loop service operating from Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前, Motsuji 毛越寺, Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, Chusonji 中尊寺, Muryoko-in ato 無量光院跡 and eventually returning to Hiraizumi Ekimae.

- Genbikei / Takkoku / Hirazumi line 厳美渓・達谷・平泉線
Buses commute between Genbikei 厳美渓, Motsuji 毛越寺 and Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前.
- Hiraizumi Geibikei line 平泉・げいび渓線
Buses commute between Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前 and Geibikei げいび渓/猊鼻渓.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ichinoseki_hiraizumi.html

(3) Hiraizumi Post Office 平泉郵便局, about five minutes walk from train station.
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
What I thought was unique about this post office is that its main signboard has forgone the conventional red to take on a brown coloured background in order to blend in with the surroundings as well.
https://map.japanpost.jp/p/search/dtl/300183100000/

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Commemorative stamps:

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Chusonji 中尊寺, Konjikido 金色堂

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)

Konjikido

Background. After Motsuji, I caught the Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run and alighted at Chusonji, which is part of UNESCO World Heritage site title conferred to Hiraizumi – Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land. Similar to Yamadera 山寺 (Risshakuji 立石寺) and Motsuji 毛越寺, Chusonji was first founded by Ennin (Jikaku daishi 慈覚大師) in 850. In 1105, the first Oshu Fujiwara clan lord, Kiyohira 清衡, started large scale construction of Chusonji on the top of Kanzan (Mt Kanzan 関山). The objective of this temple complex was to comfort the souls of those sacrificed during the Former Nine Years’ War (Zenkunen War 前九年合戦) between 1051 and 1062; and Latter Three Years’ War (Gosanen War 後三年の役) between 1083 and 1087 in the Tohoku region.

Steep slope. In comparison to the leisure stroll around Ozumi ga ike 大泉が池 in Motsuji, I felt that the walking route within the compound of Chusonji (especially at the start) was way more arduous and challenging. The gradient of Tsukimizaka 月見坂, the main path which leads to Konjikido, is steeper than I anticipated and at times, I had to use the rope handrails to pull myself up.

Hondo 本堂, the main temple building of Motsuji.

Main hall. Chusonji is actually a collective name for all the temples (one main temple and 17 other sub-temples) situated on this mountain. While walking along the path through a Japanese cedar forest, temples dedicated to Buddhist pantheon emerged on both sides. Rebuilt in 1909, Hondo 本堂 is the principal temple hall where Shaka Nyorai (Historical Buddha) is worshiped and there are two eternal lights (placed on both sides of Shaka Nyorai) which were lit by flame brought over from Hieizan's (Hiei mountain 比叡山) Enryaku-ji 延暦寺 (located in Kyoto).

Mine Yakushido 峯薬師堂.

Hakusan Jinja 白山神社.

Dainichido 大日堂.

Tickets to view Konjikido 金色堂 (Golden Hall) are sold at the office in Sankozo 讃衡蔵. The area requiring an admission ticket is where Konjikido, Kyozo 経楼 (sutra repository) and Kyu Oido 旧覆堂 (the hall formerly used to protect Konjikido) are located. As there is stall selling light snacks near Sankozo, I took a breather and rewarded myself with a matcha soft cream before making my way to Konjikido. Within the compound of Chusonji, there are also two lookout points - the Eastern Lookout (東物見) near the start of Tsukimizaka and the Western Lookout (西物見) at the end of Tsukumizaka, where a relatively good overview of Hiraizumi-cho can be seen.

Eastern Lookout.

Western Lookout.

Magnificence. Based on historical records, there were over forty temples and pagodas and more than three hundred priests’ residences in Chusonji and out of which only Konjikido survived to convey the history to future generation. Completed in 1124, the Konjikido is currently being shielded by another external structure and photography is not allowed within the building. The name Konjikido / Golden Hall comes about because the entire hall is covered inside out with gold leaf literally. The fine level of decorative details displayed on the pillars and the altars is simply mind blowing. Mother of pearl craftsmanship, lacquer decoration sprinkled with gold powder and metal cravings/engravings decoration showcased the outstanding and sophisticated artistic techniques of Buddhist art during Heian period. This is definitely one place where no one leaves here feeling unimpressed.

Konjikido.

Kyozo 経蔵 (Sutra Repository)

Unique stairs.

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Chusonji 中尊寺
〒029-4102 岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉衣関202
Operating hours:
- 1 Mar to 3 Nov: 0830 - 1700 hrs
- 4 Nov to end Feb: 0830 - 1630 hrs
Admission fee (to Konjikido 金色堂, Kyozo 経楼 and Kyu Oido 旧覆堂) = 800 yen
https://www.chusonji.or.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
From Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅 bus stop, board Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run 平泉巡回バス 「るんるん」, a loop service operating from Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前, Motsuji 毛越寺, Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, Chusonji 中尊寺, Muryoko-in ato 無量光院跡 and eventually returning to Hiraizumi Ekimae and alight at Chusonji.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ichinoseki_hiraizumi.html

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Motsuji 毛越寺

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)

World Heritage site. After visiting Genbikei 厳美渓, I made my way next to Hiraizumi-cho 平泉町 by bus to cover two more places of interest - Motsuji 毛越寺 and Chusonji 中尊寺, both were designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2011. 

Background. Even though Motsuji was first founded in 850 by Ennin 円仁 (Jikaku Dashi 慈覚大師), most of the original halls were built in the 12th century by Motohira 基衡, the second generation Oshu Fujiwara lord 奥州藤原氏. In its heyday, there were forty temples and pagodas and over five hundred priest quarters and it was said that the magnificence of its halls was unparalleled. However, the original buildings were destroyed by fires after the downfall of Oshu Fujiwara clan, leaving behind the foundation remains and Jodo-teien 浄土庭園 (or Pure Land Garden). Fortunately, these remains were maintained in good condition making it possible to imagine how these halls would have looked like at that point of time. Oizumi ga ike 大泉が池, a large pond in Jodo-teien, is also carefully preserved and has become the main focal point of Motsuji. Overall, its rich historical value and beautiful landscaping features make Motsuji deserving of the titles of Special Historical Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty.

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Entrance to Motsuji.

Remains of Kondo (main hall).

Remains of Shoro (bell tower).

Highlights

After purchasing the ticket and passed through the main gate, I followed the directional signs to explore Motsuji. The route goes in a clockwise direction running along the circumference of Ozumi ga ike 大泉が池, which measures 90 m from north to south and 180 m from east to west. The design of the garden itself is representative of Heian period style. Using the pond as the reference point, the remains of the main hall (Kondo 金堂), its bell tower (Shoro 鐘楼) and sutra repository tower (Kyoro 経楼) are located to its north while the remains of the South Gate (Nandaimon) is situated on its south. The pond has two islands (the biggest one named Nakajima 中島 which is curved like a comma), one peninsula on the southeast shore and three peninsulas on the south shore. It was also said that the Kondo, Nakajima and Nandaimon were once linked together by a bridge (check out a pictorial representation of how Motsuji looked like in the past on its website).





After entering the premises, this is the first building that lies straight ahead. Hondo 本堂 is a Heian style temple built in 1989, with distinctive vermilion coloured pillars and roof. Bhaisajyaguru 薬師如来 (or Medicine Buddha) is worshipped in the temple.





Kaisando 開山堂, a rustic looking wooden building, is a hall dedicated to Jikaku Dashi, the founder of Motsuji. In front of Kaisando, there are small plots of land where irises donated by Meiji Jingu are planted, and the best time to admire the blooming flowers is between mid June to mid July.



Another prominent landmark in the garden is Jogyodo 常行堂, situated northeast from the pond. The current structure was rebuilt in 1732 to pray for continued luck in the fortunes of war for the lord of Sendai, Date Yoshimura 伊達吉村. The wooden hall has a pyramidal roof and Amitaba 阿弥陀如来 is the primary object of worship here.





Nearby Jogyodo, there is a small winding stream which replenishes the water of the pond. Named Yarimizu 遣水, the stream was unearthed during the excavation and research of the garden and its design followed the style mentioned by Sakuteiki 作庭記, the oldest published Japanese text on garden making which traces its history as far as 11th century.





Serene and tranquil. It takes less than an hour to walk one lap around the pond. Overall, I cherish the serenity and tranquility experienced in Motsuji and this place is almost analogous to a safe haven in my opinion. I was also impressed by the wonders of landscaping as it made the pond and the garden so aesthetically appealing to look at from various angles; clear reflection of its surroundings can be beautifully captured on the still waters of the pond. Personally, I prefer Motsuji more than Chusonji - its subtle beauty is unexpectedly captivating and this place is truly worthy of its conferred title as a Place of Scenic Beauty.





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Motsuji 毛越寺
〒029-4102 岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉字大沢58

Operating hours: 0830 - 1700 hrs; 0830 - 1630 hrs (5 Nov - 3 Apr)

Admission fee = 500 yen

http://www.motsuji.or.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) By bus.
- From Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅 bus stop, board Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run 平泉巡回バス 「るんるん」, a loop service operating from Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前, Motsuji 毛越寺, Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, Chusonji 中尊寺, Muryoko-in ato 無量光院跡 and eventually returning to Hiraizumi Ekimae and alight at Motsuji.
- From Genbikei 厳美渓, board Genbikei / Takkoku / Hirazumi line 厳美渓・達谷・平泉線 and alight at Motsuji.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ichinoseki_hiraizumi.html



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Commemorative stamp: