Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Hakodate Airport 函館空港

Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/
Approx 1 hr 20 mins between Hakodate and Haneda Airport.

Other flights:
- Domestic flights from Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, Okushiri island and Misawa (in Aomori).
- International flights from Taipei and Seoul.

There are a handful of restaurants and shops housed within the airport. Had our dinner in Restaurant Pollux, located on third floor of the airport, before boarding our flight back to Haneda Airport.

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How to get there?
(1) Bus to Hakodate Airport (bus stop 11), bus stop located in front of Hakodate JR Station. 
- Bus schedule (between Hakodate JR Station and Hakodate Airport): http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/time_schedule/bus/en.shtml
- Bus schedule (in Japanese): http://www.hakonavi.ne.jp/howto/time.html
Approx 20 mins; fee = 410 yen

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Commemorative stamps:

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse 函館金森赤レンガ倉庫

Visited 13.02.2013

Our last stop before heading home was to this prominent landmark of Hakodate. Hakodate Port, opened in 1859, was one of Japan's first international ports, alongside Nagasaki and Yokohama. During those days, flourishing trade businesses increased the demand of warehouses near the bayside. Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, the first commercial warehouse in Hakodate, was constructed then. The bustling trade port has become a scene of the past and the bay area has been transformed into an entertainment district. These warehouses have stepped down from their original function (for goods storage) and converted into shops and restaurants.

Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse is made up of three areas:

(1) Bay Hakodate: Houses Hakodate Music Box Museum, operated by the same company (Orgel Doh) who owns Otaru Music Box Museum. The rest are mainly souvenir shops.

(2) Kanemori Aka-renga Soko (金森洋物館): Spent most of my time in this area. Whole array of souvenirs can be found here. Some of us may be familiar with Pastry Snaffle's, which has two branches in Singapore currently (in Plaza Singapura & Bedok Mall). This famous cheese cake confectionery brand originated from Hakodate and has several shops/cafes in Hokkaido - one of them is located in this warehouse. Ironically, my first encounter with Pastry Snaffle's cheese cake was in Singapore (not in Hokkaido where it originated from) and I liked it alot - as I am a fan of rich and creamy cheese cakes! Hope to visit their cafes next time in Hokkaido...
Pastry Snaffle's: http://www.snaffles.jp/english/

(3) Hakodate History Plaza (函館ヒストリープラザ): Houses Hakodate Beer Hall, Hakodate Roman-kan (shop selling glass crafted products) and other wagon shops.

All in all, Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse is quite a touristy place - you can find repetitive items sold in different stalls. After doing your shopping in these warehouses, I will recommend visitors to take a leisure stroll along Hakodate Bay - enjoy the sea breeze and at the same time, admire these historical monuments once again.

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Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse 函館金森赤レンガ倉庫

http://www.hakodate-kanemori.com/en/

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How to get there? 

(1) By streetcar.
Take streetcar #2 (heading towards Yachigashira 谷地頭) or #5 (heading towards Hakodate Dokku-mae 函館どっく前), alight at Jujigai 十字街. Walk towards Hakodate Bay. 

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Gotoken Curry Express 五島軒 函館カリーエクスプレス, Hasegawasutoa ハセガワストア

Visited 13.02.2013

(1) Gotoken Curry Express

Was time for lunch after visiting Goryokaku Tower. Chanced upon Gotoken Curry Express, located on the second floor of the tower and decided to give it a try. Gotoken, a restaurant that was established more than a century ago, started out selling western cuisines. However, curry became Gotoken's signature dish later on (during Taisho period between 1912 - 1926). This was created based on a recipe which was improvised by the second generation owner who had undergone training in Imperial Hotel then. 

The main restaurant, located near Jujigai, still offer western cuisines. This other smaller branch specialises in mainly curry items - pork, beef and seafood curry cooked in various ways such as English, French and Indian. The gravy are served in English style silver sauce boats unlike Japanese curry restaurant. Very thick and dark curry gravy, a blend of roux and their homemade broth, which tasted both sweet and spicy. Personally I still prefer the soup curry version. Gotoken also sells packaged curries, enabling one to savour again back at home.

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(2) Hasegawasutoa Convenience Store

Skewers cooked on the spot. 

Sometimes, tasty food pops up in unexpected places - which makes food hunting such a pleasure! Hasegawasutoa, is a convenience store chain found only in Hakodate. In Japan, its common to find ready-to-go bento in convenience stores. However, in Hasegawasutoa, they only make your bento box upon order. What is most unusual is that their well known yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) are actually made of pork and not chicken, entirely different from what its name implied! Pork is more readily available and cheaper than chicken as there are more pig farms in South of Hokkaido, therefore pork has been used in meat skewers in Hakodate traditionally. To prevent misunderstanding as well, the lids of these bento boxes are imprinted with an adorable pig cartoon.

Chose the salt flavour. Each bento comes with three skewers, each with alternating pieces of pork and stalks of green onion, served with rice at the bottom. We were amazed by how these simple looking grilled meat skewers were exceptionally tasty! The juicy meat and crunchy green onion makes you want to eat more with every bite. It's a pity that we only had one box (as we already had our lunch)... Apart from the plentiful fresh seafood that Hakodate has to offer, please do not miss out this "B grade gourmet" when you visit Hakodate!

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(1) Gotoken 五島軒 函館カリーエクスプレス

http://www.gotoken.hakodate.jp/express/default.htm

(2) Hasegawasutoa ハセガワストア - Goryokaku branch
Opens 24 hours. 

http://www.hasesuto.co.jp

Other branches: 

Spotted another branch near Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, which is easily recognisable by the big bento box display. Store is just located adjacent to Lucky Pierrot restaurant.

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Goryokaku Tower 五稜郭タワー, Goryokaku Park 五稜郭公園

Visited 13.02.2013
Number of castles visited to date: 1
Top 100 castles in Japan: #2

Goryokaku Tower is an observatory building overlooking Goryakaku Fort. This two storey observatory which stands at 90 m tall, is actually pentagon in shape, synonymous to the fortress beside it.  

History of Goryokaku Fort (extracted from information brochure): 
Construction of the fort dates back to 1853 when a US fleet arrived at a Japanese port. Succumbing to US demands that Japan opens its doors to the rest of the world, the Tokugawa Shogun concluded the Treaty of Peace and Amity between United States of America and Japan in 1854, and opened Hakodate Port for international trade. Aiming to maintain governance over Hakodate, the Tokugawa Shogun instituted the Hakodate Magistrate's Office, which promoted land reclamation and industrial development, while fortifying the defensive capabilities of the area. Ayasaburo Takeda, a researcher of Dutch studies, was ordered to design a new fort when the Magistrate's Office was slated for relocation. He devised a fort modeled after European citadel towns, which took seven years to complete construction.

Left: Mount Hakodate in the background. 

In 1952, Goryakaku Fort was designated as a special historic site by the national government. Goryokaku Tower was originally opened in 1964, but later replaced by this newer landmark in 2006. The observatory commands an excellent view of star shaped fortress, Mount Hakodate and the Tsugaru Straits (a channel between Honshu and Hokkaido, connecting the Sea of Japan with Pacific Ocean). Did not believe such impressive looking fortress actually existed when I first saw it in books. Was totally speechless when I finally got to see this in real life -  the contrast between the majestic looking and well defined five pointed star and the surrounding buildings. Another attraction not to be missed when you visit Hakodate!

Goryokaku Fort is decorated different every season. There are about 1,600 cherry trees planted within and on the perimeter of the fortress and this promises a beautiful scenery in spring. In winter, the star fortress sparkles brightly at night as illumination are installed on its perimeter. Exhibits were also on display on the observatory levels, explaining the history of Goryokaku and Hakodate.

Though we managed to visit the fortress later (which is converted into a community park), I found it difficult to relate what appears on the ground level to what was seen overhead from the observatory tower a while ago. Therefore, I will still recommend visiting the observatory tower first before making your way to the fortress. The restoration of the Magistrate's Office, which is located in the centre of the fortress, showcased the sophisticated architectural skills during that era. Decided to give this a miss due to time constraints (and additional admission fee...) - had one more attraction to cover (Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse) before making our way to Hakodate Airport in the late afternoon.

Top right: Restoration of Magistrate's Office

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Goryokaku Tower 五稜郭タワー　
http://www.goryokaku-tower.co.jp/
http://www.hakodate.travel/en/things-to-do/top7/goryokaku/
Opening hours:
0800 - 1900 hrs (21 Apr - 20 Oct);
0900 - 1800 hrs (21 Oct - 20 Apr);
0900 - 1900 hrs (during the "Dream of Pentagonal Stars" event)
Admission fee = 840 yen

Hakodate Magistrate's Office 函館奉行所
located within Goryokaku Koen.
http://www.hakodate-bugyosho.jp/en/index.html
Opening hours:
0900 - 1800 hrs (1 Apr - 30 Oct)
0900 - 1700 hrs (1 Nov - 31 Mar)
Closed on 31 Dec - 3 Jan for maintenance.
Admission fee = 500 yen


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How to get there? 

(1) By Hakodate streetcar:
Take either line 2 or 5 from Hakodae ekimae, heading for Yunokawa Onsen (湯の川). Alight at Goryokaku koen-mae, follow the directions and walk for another 15 mins.
Hakodate ekimae <> Goryokaku koen-mae; Fee = 230 yen

(2) By local bus: Goryokaku Tower, Torabisuchinu Shuttle Bus (五稜郭タワー・トラピスチヌシャトルバス). Bus departs from Hakodate JR Station. 
Hakodate bus website: http://hakobus.donan.net/

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Commemorative stamps:

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Hakodate Asaichi 函馆朝市

Visited 13.02.2013

One of the top three markets in Hokkaido (alongside Kushiro's Washo Market and Sapporo's Nijo Market), Hakodate Asaichi is a seafood lovers' heaven! Plentiful quantities of seafood are off loaded at the nearby Hakodate Port everyday, which means visitors are guaranteed the freshest gifts from the sea in this market. But what makes Hakodate Asaichi different from the rest? 

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Highlights: 

- Squid is Hakodate's city fish for many reasons. The shape of Hakodate city is said to resemble the squid from a bird's eye view (Mt Hakodate being the head and rest of Hakodate city looked like the body of squid). Apart from that, Hakodate boosts the highest number of squids catch in Hokkaido annually, making up 90% of Hakodate's overall live catch as well. The locals' affection for squid has even gone to the point that a "squid dance" is created for their annual Hakodate Port Festival in summer! From food (such as squid ink soft serve, squid buns) and souvenirs to mascots, road signs and even manway covers, it seems that the presence of squids cannot go unnoticed in Hakodate.

- One activity that is unique to Hakodate Asaichi is this live squid fishing from a tank placed in the centre of ekini market (えきに). Get a fishing rod from the counter to proceed with squid fishing, without the need of a bait - the trick is to aim for the fin of the squid. After paying for your catch, the staff will dissect the squid on the spot, cutting the main body into thin translucent strips (ika noodles) within minutes. Only managed to see the entire process from the side and did not get to taste the squid sashimi (should have done so...).   

- Undoubtedly, the most popular seafood in Hokkaido has got to be crabs. In Hakodate Asaichi, I got to try a crab bun. A very nice savory snack that is filled with a mixture snow crab meat, bamboo shoot, onion, egg white and soy sauce. Apart from seafood, there are also meat, vegetables, fruits and dried goods stalls, catering to the needs of locals. Always felt that visiting the market was a good way to understand the lives of local, as this is a place which brings people together and is always bustling with life and spirit. 

- We finally get to taste some seafood at one of the many grilled seafood stalls in the market. Feasted on fresh uni (sea urchin), scallop and abalone. Love the uni especially - sweet, slightly briny taste and creamy texture, melted in our mouths almost instantly! If you are a sashimi lover, I will highly recommend to leave an empty stomach in the morning and try out the chirashi don (ちらし丼) and katte don (勝手丼) which are offered by many shops here.

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Hakodate Asaichi 函馆朝市
http://www.hakodate-asaichi.com/

1 min walk from Hakodate JR Station.
Opening hours: 0600 - 1200 hrs (Jan - Apr); 0500 - 1200 hrs (May - Dec)

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Commemorative stamp:

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Day 11 Itinerary: Hakodate 函馆

Day 11 - 13.02.2013 (Wed)

Breakfast: Doutor, branch @ Hakodate Wako [Closed]

Visited Hakodate Asaichi 函館朝市.

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Purchased 1 day streetcar pass. Price = 600 yen

Hakodate ekimae 函館駅前 > Goryokaku Koen-mae 五稜郭公園前
by streetcar

Visited Goryokaku Tower 五稜郭タワー and Goryokaku Koen 五稜郭公園.

Lunch: Gotoken Curry Express 五島軒カレーエクスプレス, in Goryokaku Tower.

Lunch add-on: Hasegawa Store ハセガワストア, Goryokaku branch

Goryokaku Koen-mae 五稜郭公園前 > Jujigai 十字街

by streetcar.

Visited Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse 金森赤レンガ倉庫.

Suehiro-cho 末広町 > Hakodate ekimae 函館駅前
by streetcar.

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Shopping:
(1) Boni-moriya departmental store (棒二森屋店)
(2) Kiosk in Loisir Hotel

Hakodate Bus Terminal (1645 hrs) > Hakodate Airport 函館空港 (1705 hrs)
by Airport transfer bus. Fee = 400 yen

Dinner: Restaurant Pollux, in Hakodate Airport 函館空港

Hakodate Airport (1940 hrs) > Haneda T1 (2110 hrs)
by JL 1170

Haneda Intl Terminal (2340 hrs) > SIN T1 (0620 hrs)
by JL 035

- End of Hokkaido Winter 2013 Trip -

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Lucky Pierrot ラッキーピエロ (十 宇 街銀座店)

Visited 12.02.2013

Lucky Pierrot is a burger restaurant chain which originated from Hakodate. They have a total of 16 outlets and all of them are located in Hakodate only. However, its exclusivity does not stop here. Each restaurant has its own unique theme, aimed to create different dinning experience in all its branches. As their signature food is burger, Lucky Pierrot is often mistaken as a conventional fast food restaurant. This is not entirely true as they only prepare your food after order is placed.

Came to Jujigai branch for dinner after visiting Mt Hakodate. Very eye catching exterior, with a huge Santa Claus stand placed at its entrance and many other Santa Claus figurines placed on the second and third floors' balcony. This particular branch is Christmas themed and the festive spirit can be felt immediately upon stepping into the restaurant. Cosy setting with European style wallpaper and lacquered wooden furnishing, familiar Christmas tunes played in the background and entire restaurant is decorated with evergreen foliage, Christmas trees and countless number of Santa Claus figurines (in different shapes and sizes)!

Ordered our food from the counter on the first floor and headed up to second floor to find a table. Had to try the shop's most popular Chinese chicken burger (チャイニーズチキンバーガー), which clocked a magnificent sales volume of 300,000 annually! Ordered the pork cutlet burger (トンカツバーガー) as well. The set meal comes with a cup of thick cut fries topped with melted cheese and a glass of oolong tea. Chinese chicken burger tasted quite good - three crispy and juicy chicken chunks (like tori karaage) sandwiched between two pieces of fragrant sesame buns. On the other hand, the pork cutlet burger comprised of two pieces of fried pork cutlets - cooked just right, with its moisture retained.

Conclusion: Though the food served was not mind blowing, the beautiful interior and Christmas theme of this particular branch will definitely uplift the mood of every diner.    

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Lucky Pierrot ラッキーピエロ (十宇街銀座店)
http://www.luckypierrot.jp/
Opening hours: 1000 - 0030 hrs

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Other branches:

(1) Hakodate ekimae branch, located on the first floor of Boni-moriya departmental store (main building).
Opening hours: 1000 - 0030 hrs



(2) Goryokaku koen-mae branch, restaurant located just outside Fort Goryokaku.
Opening hours: 1000 - 0030 hrs



(3) Hakodate Bay branch, restaurant located near Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse.
Opening hours: 1000 - 0030 hrs

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Do you know?
Taiwanese singer, Ann (白安) went to Hakodate to shoot the music video for her song 《麦田捕手》(recorded in her first album which was released in 2012). Try to spot Hakodate city night view, Lucky Pierrot (Hakodate Bay branch) and other iconic landmarks of Hakodate in this MV.

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Mt Hakodate 函馆山

Visited 12.02.2013

The view from Mt Hakodate has been named as one of top three cities' night view in the world - alongside Hong Kong and Naples. Mt Hakodate stands at 334 m high and from the summit, Hakodate city sits on a well defined "hourglass" shaped land, bounded by Hakodate bay on the left and Tsugaru Straits on the right.

Reached Hakodate later than plan (as we missed an earlier train from Sapporo to Hakodate) and skies had already started to darken when we check in to our hotel for the night. Original plan was to made our way up by late afternoon, in order to capture the transition from day to night. Fortunately, weather was promising on our only night spent in Hakodate (and last night in Hokkaido as well) - the most important factor that affects the scenery enjoyed from the viewing platform on Mt Hakodate.

Royce Chocolate takes on a different packaging in Hakodate!

Made use of the streetcar (to Jujigai), followed by ropeway to reach the observatory. Trembled when the gush of chilly wind blew onto our faces when we stepped outdoors, but we were immediately welcomed by the stunning night view which looked exactly the same as what I have seen in books! City lights looked like millions of diamonds that sparkled brilliantly under the dark skies, bringing a smile to every visitor's face. To enjoy the panoramic view indoors, you can also settle your meal in the restaurant here. By far, this is best city night view I have seen in Japan (have been to Mt Moiwa in Sapporo and Mt Inasa in Nagasaki on separate occasions).

Conclusion: Undoubtedly, Mt Hakodate is a must visit attraction in Hakodate especially when weather permits!

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Mt Hakodate 函馆山
http://www.334.co.jp/eng/
Opening hours: 1000 - 2200 hrs (25 Apr - 15 Oct); 1000 - 2100 hrs (16 Oct - 14 Apr)
Ropeway carriage departs every 10 minutes normally.
Ropeway fares = 1,200 yen (round trip); 660 yen (one way)

Tip: Download 10% discount coupon from HISCoupon app.


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How to get there?

(1) Streetcar:
- From Hakodate JR Station, transfer to streetcar at Hakodate ekimae stop.
- Take the streetcar #2 (heading towards Yachigashira 谷地頭) or #5 (heading towards Hakodate Dokku-mae 函館どっく前), alight at Jujigai 十字街.
- Approx 5 - 10 mins walk to ropeway station.

(2) Local bus:
- Board Mt Hakodate bus from bus stop #4 outside Hakodate JR Station.
- Bus reaches Mt Hakodate summit directly.
- Fee = 400 yen (adult), 200 yen (child)
Bus schedule: http://www.334.co.jp/jpn/access/location/location2.php 

(3) Twinkle Bus Hakodate:
- Night Bus route covers Mt Hakodate sightseeing.
- Operating period: 1 Apr - 30 Sep
- Fee = 700 yen (not inclusive of ropeway ticket)
More information: http://www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/english/travel/twinkle.html

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Commemorative stamp: 

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Loisir Hotel Hakodate ロワジールホ テル函館

Stayed 12.02.2013
Booked thru Japanican.

11.06.2018 Update: Loisir Hotel Hakodate is permanently closed. Current building is housed by Four Points by Sheraton Hakodate フォーポイントバイシェラトン函館. 

- There are many hotel options nearby Hakodate JR Station. Decided to settle for Loisir Hotel which is just a stone throw away from the train station. Loisir Hotel is one of the brands under Solare Hotels and Resort group, which also manages Chisun series of hotels. Have stayed in Sapporo Chisun Hotel on my first trip to Hokkaido and was pretty satisfied with my stay then.

- Booked the standard twin room A (exclusive of breakfast) at 7,980 yen/night (~99 SGD). Typical room size of 18 m2 (limited walking space in the room), equipped with all basic amenities. Souvenir shops are conveniently located on the ground floor (hotel lobby is on the second floor), allowing guests to perform last minute shopping of local specialties before heading back home. 

- Overall: Strategic location of hotel, great accessibility by both train and streetcar. A good hotel option for those visiting Hakodate for the first time.

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus to Hakodate Airport. Bus stop is located outside the train station.
Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/
Bus schedule to/fro Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/time_schedule/bus/en.shtml

(2) Hakodate eki-mae streetcar stop is located beside the hotel. Hop onto the streetcar to visit other attractions in Hakodate. Purchase a 1 day pass for 600 yen to enjoy unlimited rides on the streetcar. Passes can be purchased from Tourist Information Counter located within Hakodate JR Station, hotel front desks or directly from the driver. Bought mine from the front desk of Loisir Hotel.

Hakodate Streetcar Map (found in 1 day pass)

Rough guide on streetcar fares:
From Hakodate eki-mae > Jujigai, to visit Mt Hakodate and Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse: 210 yen
From Hakodate eki-mae > Goryokaku koen mae, to visit Goryokaku Tower: 230 yen
From Hakodate eki-mae > Yunokawa Onsen: 240 yen

(3) Hakodate Asachi Market (函馆朝市), located beside the train station and hotel. Seafood lovers will definitely want to savour the freshest catch of the day in this popular market. Chose the accommodation plan without breakfast because we wanted to visit the market in the morning.

(4) Boni-moriya departmental store (棒二森屋店), located beside the hotel. You can find quite an extensive line up of local souvenirs (mainly food) on the basement of Annex building. For MUJI fans, you will be delighted to know that they have one outlet on the fourth floor in the same building.
Website: http://www.boni-moriya.com/

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Loisir Hotel Hakodate ロワジールホテル函館
〒040-0063 函館市若松町14番10号
http://www.loisir-hakodate.com/


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Commemorative stamps: 

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Hakodate JR Station 函館駅

Hakodate JR Station (H75), terminal station on Hakodate main line.

(1) Limited Express Super Hokuto & Hokuto commute between Sapporo and Hakodate.
(2) Limited Express Super Hakucho & Hakucho commute between Hakodate and Aomori on Honshu island via Tsugaru-Kaikyo line, passing through Seikan Tunnel.

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What's nearby?

(1) Buses

- Twinkle Bus Hakodate: JR operates two sightseeing bus routes covering several prominent attractions in Hakodate (exclusively for JR train users).

• Mankitsu Bus covers a pretty extensive line up of places: Trappists Monastery, Goryokaku Park, Cape Tachimachi, Hakodate Asaichi Market, Seikan Renrakusen Ferry Mashumaru Museum, Motomachi Guided Tour, Foreigners' Cemetery and Kanamori Red Brick Warehouse. Would have love to join this sightseeing tour if I have allocated more time to explore Hakodate.
• Night Bus focuses on Mt Hakodate night view.

More information: http://www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/english/travel/twinkle.html

- Bus to Hakodate Airport (bus stop 11)
Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/
Bus schedule to/fro Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/time_schedule/bus/en.shtml

(2) Hotels
There are many hotel options near the train station - Loisir Hotel, Hotel Route Inn, Smile Hotel, Comfort Hotel, etc.

(3) Twinkle Plaza and Tourist Information Counter are located within train station. You can make reservation for Twinkle Buses and purchase 1 day streetcar pass here.

(4) Hakodate ekimae streetcar station, is about 3 minutes walk from train station.

(5) Hakodate Asaichi Market, located just beside train station.

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Commemorative stamps:

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Day 10 Itinerary: Hakodate 函館

Day 10 - 12.02.2013 (Tue)

Breakfast: Best Western Fino Hotel

Morning stroll to Clock Tower

Shopping: Marui Imai, in Odori.
Bought packed lunches from Marui Imai.

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Sapporo JR Station 札幌駅 (1317 hrs) > Hakodate JR Station 函館駅 (1649 hrs)

by Hokuto train. Day #4 usage of 4 day flexible Hokkaido Rail Pass.

Check in: Loisir Hotel Hakodate

Hakodate ekimae > Jujigai
by streetcar. Fee = 200 yen.

Hakodate Ropeway Station > Mount Hakodate summit 
by ropeway 函館山ロープウェイ. Fee = 1,050 yen (discounted)

Night view from Mount Hakodate summit 函館山. 

Dinner: Lucky Pierrot ラッキーピエロ, Jujigai branch

Jujigai > Hakodate ekimae
by streetcar. Fee = 200 yen

- End of Day 10 -

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Susukino Ice Festival すすきの氷の 祭典

Visited 11.02.2014

Year 2013 (33rd): 05.02.2013 - 11.02.2013
Year 2014 (34th): 05.02.2014 - 11.02.2014
Year 2015 (35th): 05.02.2015 - 11.02.2015 

Part of the larger Sapporo Snow Festival, an exhibition of ice sculptures is held in the nightlife district of Susukino in the very same week. This annual event is held along ekimae dori, between minami 4 dori and minami 6 dori, which is within walking distance from Susukino subway station. Managed to rush to this site on the last day, just an hour before lights off (2200 hrs)!

Highlights: 

- These works of art were entries for the ice sculpture contest and sculptors were given less than a day to create their masterpieces on the first day of festival. Having visited Heiwa dori shopping street during Asahikawa Winter Festival a few days back, the "wow" factor that these ice sculptures brought to me was definitely not as high as before. Despite that, I still found myself spending quite some time, admiring the fine details portrayed on each piece of ice sculpture. Personally I like to see how sculptors create mythical and fictional creatures, such as dragons and phoenixes, and they look particularly beautiful when they are illuminated at night.

- The most intriguing ice display has got to be this huge ice wall which was frozen together with crabs and fishes! An ice bar, which is constructed out of ice, allows visitors to enjoy ice cold beer/liquor (if you can withstand that in the cold weather) in the event venue. You may also get the opportunity to take a photo with the Ice Queen, the winner of their local beauty pageant. All in all, not a very big scale event, but still worth visiting especially if you are in Sapporo! 

Fishes and crabs all trapped in this ice wall.

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Susukino Ice Festival すすきの氷の祭典
Open to visitors till 2300 hrs, but lights out at 2200 hrs on the last day.
Free admission.

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Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Aji no Tokeidai 味の時計台 (JR札幌店)

Visited 11.02.2013

- One of the goals of this trip was to try all three popular types of ramen in different parts of Hokkaido - shoyu (soy sauce) based in Asahikawa, miso based in Sapporo and shio (salt) based in Hakodate. Managed to accomplish two out of three wish list items - missed out shio ramen even though we visited Hakodate this time round. Had tasted shoyu ramen from Aoba, one of the many locally established names when we were in Asahikawa. Made our way next to this well known brand, which is named after Sapporo's prominent landmark, Clock Tower (Tokedai). Even though Aji no Tokeidai has not been around for a long time (was only founded late 1980s), it has risen to become a household name in Sapporo, close to 20 branches/franchises within Sapporo and about 40 in Hokkaido.   

- Patronised this franchise located near the North exit of Sapporo JR Station. Ordered their signature miso based ramen, gyozas (pan fried meat dumplings) and fried rice. Soup was very savory, packed with rich flavours (pork bone broth) and not too salty. Aji no Tokeidai manufactures their own noodles (has a factory in Aomori) - springy noodles cooked well enough to reduce the alkaline taste. So far, gyozas that I have eaten in Japan have been very satisfying - pan fried to perfection, stuffed with juicy meat fillings. Chinese style fried rice finally took us away from many days of Japanese cuisine in this trip and tasted not too bad as well (though was hoping for more "wok-hei" which we can taste in most Chinese stir fried dishes). 

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Aji no Tokeidai 味の時計台 (JR札幌店)
Located on the north exit of Sapporo JR Station.
Opening hours: 1000 - 2200 hrs
http://www.ajino-tokeidai.co.jp/

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Other Sapporo Ramen shops?

(1) Sapporo Ramen Kyowakoku 札幌拉面共和国
http://www.sapporo-esta.jp/ramen
Similar concept to Asahikawa Ramen Village, a community of eight ramen stalls is located on the sixth floor of Sapporo ESTA building (just beside Sapporo JR Station). Apart from Sapporo Ramen, this place also features ramen from other parts of Hokkaido as well. If you are unsure which stalls to visit in Sapporo, you should be able to find one to your liking (though all looked quite similar to me) over here. 



(2) Aji no Sanpei 味の三平
http://www.ajino-sanpei.com/
Read about this traditional ramen shop in one of my travel guide books. The one and only shop is located on the fourth floor of Daimaru-Fuji Central departmental store (near to Odori Park). Have marked it as one of my "to visit" places on the next visit to Hokkaido!

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Otaru Snow Light Path Festival 小樽雪あかりの路

Visited 11.02.2013

Year 2013 (14th): 08.02.2013 - 17.02.2013
Year 2014 (15th): 08.02.2014 - 17.02.2014
Year 2015 (16th): 06.02.2015 - 15.02.2015

Other than Sapporo Snow Festival, this annual event held in Otaru is equally well-received by both locals and foreigners. Otaru Snow Light Path Festival became our main objective of revisiting Otaru on our second trip to Hokkaido. This event is held over a period of 10 days at two venues, along Otaru Canal and the old Temiya railway track. As this event falls in the same week with Sapporo Snow Festival, many would also make it a point to visit Otaru this time as well.

Walked our way to Otaru Canal from Minami-otaru JR Station, exactly the same way as what we did during our first visit 6 months ago. Was embraced by the nostalgic feel as we came to Marchen intersection and strolled along the familiar Sakaimachi street - the English style steam powered clock, exquisite music box and glassware shops, cafes and confectioneries to stopover for a break. What was different this time round was the addition of snow figures constructed on both sides of Sakaimachi street, and all these works of art further emphasized the theme of love and romance - something that Otaru has always been fondly associated with. Glass lamps and snow candles, which led the way to Otaru Canal began to light up when skies gradually darkened.

Reached the canal well when the sun was setting and was captivated by its innate beauty yet again. A different picturesque of Otaru Canal was presented in front of our eyes... far different from our first encounter 6 months ago. Snow has accumulated on the path beside the canal and icicles has formed on the edge of the warehouses' roof on the other side of the canal. Glass buoys, stringed together, were placed across and on the calm waters of the canal - reminded us that this was once an important tool in the fishing industry and were manufactured by many glassware shops in Otaru at that point in time. The entire stretch of Otaru Canal was lined with many snow candles that were constructed by volunteers and visitors. The bright and occasional wavering flames, when the breeze swept by, created this sense of warmth in the cold night. Personally, I will recommend visiting the canal in the evening to experience the transition from day to night, and also to avoid the bigger crowd that will start to come in at night.

Made our way to the other venue - Old Temiya railway track. Snow has covered the entire railway track, and snow walls have piled up on the sides. Took a leisure walk through the snow path which was decorated throughout with snow and ice candles, before we made our way back to Otaru JR Station.

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Otaru Snow Light Path Festival 小樽雪あかりの路
http://otaru.yukiakarinomichi.org/

(1) Otaru Canal

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(2) Old Temiya railway track (手宫线迹地)

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