Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Nagato Yumoto Onsen Gyokusenkaku 長門湯本温泉 玉仙閣

Stayed 26.04.2015 (Sun)
Reserved thru' Rurubu.
Three person per room with half board = 18,360 yen/pax + 450 yen (bathing tax/pax)

Onsen with a history. The origin of Nagato Yumoto Onsen dates all the way back to Muromachi period (1336 – 1573). It was discovered by the chief priest of Taineiji 大寧寺, who was told about the existent of a hot spring source in the surroundings by Sumiyoshidaimyojin 住吉大明神 while he was mediating. In fact, Nagato Yumoto Onsen has the longest history than any other hot spring areas in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The hot spring town is well secluded in a canyon where two rivers Otozuregawa 音信川 and Taineijigawa 大寧寺川 splits through the mountainous area, with hotels and ryokans established on the sides of the rivers. This place was definitely more remote and laidback than I thought; something that I learnt to appreciate a lot as a city dweller. In Nagato Yumoto Onsen, you can find high end, luxury hotel like Otani Sansou Bettei Otozure 大谷山荘 別邸音信 which cost close to 500 SGD per pax per night. Eventually decided to settle for Gyokusenkaku, a reasonably priced ryokan with has an interesting theme that arouse my curiosity.

View from our room.

Presence of Yang Guifei felt in various corners of the ryokan. 

Presence of Yang Guifei. Yes, you have not mistaken. I was referring to the legendary beauty of Tang Dynasty who is otherwise known as Yang Yuhuan 楊玉環. History documented that Yang Guifei was killed during An Lushan Rebellion, but little did I know that in Japan, an alternative ending existed. It was said that Yang Guifei did not die and managed to flee from China by boat. She eventually landed in the current Nagato city, where she stayed for the rest of her life. This legend appeared to be seemingly true because there is even a Yang Guifei Village 楊貴妃の里, a Chinese style garden with a monumental tomb built to commemorate her. Though not verified, this was still an interesting twist to the original story which I was familiar with. I have to admit that I initially thought Gyokusenkaku was a place that Yang Guifei stayed before. The only reason why Gyokusenkaku is associated with this legendary figure is because they constructed one of their hot spring pool to look like the bathtub which Yang Guifei had enjoyed in China. This lotus shaped hot spring pool is called Kihi-yu 貴妃湯, which bears the same name as the actual one residing in Huaqing Pool (華清池). You can call this a gimmick, but this is what makes Gyokusenkaku stands out from the rest of the accommodation available in this small hot spring town. Imagining yourself as Yang Guifei, while having a soak in Kihi-yu is quite a luxurious moment after all. 

A glimpse of Taishi-yu in Senraku-yu.

Royal bath. There are two communal bathhouses named Kasei-yu 華清湯 and Senraku-yu 仙楽湯 which are separated by gender and are swapped at night in order to allow guests to enjoyed both bathhouses during their stay here. Apart from Kihi-yu which is a replica of Yang Guifei's lotus shaped bathtub featured in Kasei-yu, Senraku-yu has a rectangular shaped, 90 cm depth pool named Taishi-yu (太子湯), which translates to Crown Prince's pool. The hot spring waters from Nagato Yumoto Onsen is weakly alkaline and transparent. As its alkalinity is said to be close to that of a toner, the water is said to have beautifying effects on the skin. The therapeutic waters has also been used to treat neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain and recovery from exhaustion historically. As we had walked quite a lot in the day visiting both Akiyoshidai and Akiyoshido, having a soak in the hot waters was definitely rewarding for us.

Room and facilities. In its premises, you can find numerous pictures, depicting the four beauties of the Tang Dynasty, placed along the corridor, or even identify Chinese style lanterns, dividers, backdrop and furniture in different parts of the ryokan. Despite the Chinese theme, the rooms are still very much the typical Japanese style, laid with tatami mats. There were a couple of massage tools and a set of T puzzle wooden blocks, which my parents and I cracked our brains to solve after dinner, made available in the room. There is a shop, located at the same floor as the front desk, where local specialties and souvenirs can be purchased from.

Choshu wagyu beef. Selected the half board package which came with grilled Choshu wagyu beef 長萩和牛 and abalone for dinner. Choshu wagyu beef is well known for its well distributed marbling in every slice of meat, and a pride of Nagato city. I found out an interesting trivia when researching about this premium local beef online. In Nagato city, there is a collaboration between the cow ranches and neighbouring farmers whereby the farmers provide the straw consumed by the cows and the ranch will give the compost to the farmers in return as fertilisers. This is an excellent example of organic waste recycling in agriculture.

The dinner course started with appetiser and sashimi platter which comprised of thinly sliced, almost transparent blowfish sashimi (河豚). This was my first time eating blowfish, which is a delicacy of Yamaguchi Prefecture. Frankly speaking I was not particularly amazed by its taste; subtle as compared to other types of fish I have eaten and slightly chewy in terms of texture. It tasted much better when I wrapped a slice of blowfish with scallions and dipped it in ponzu sauce.

Shortly after that, the staff placed a basket filled with fresh lobster, clams, prawns, mushrooms, corn on the cob and sliced eggplant. Next, a plate of thick, beautifully marbled Chosho wagyu beef and a small basket containing abalone, each with a scoop of butter put onto of it, were served. With all the ingredients ready, it was time to grill our food on the stove! The wagyu beef was truly the highlight of the entire meal; the fatty portion, which has a lower melting point than regular beef, disintegrated almost instantaneously in the mouth, releasing all the flavours contained in the meat. Love the buttery abalone as well. Overall, dinner was much more tiring than usual because we had to cook all the food ourselves and there were times when we accidentally overcooked/burnt some of them. If given the chance to choose again, I would prefer food directly prepared by the kitchen rather than DIY.

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Nagato Yumoto Onsen Gyokusenkaku 長門湯本温泉 玉仙閣
〒759-4103 山口県長門市深川湯本1234
Contact number: (+81)0837-25-3731
http://www.gyokusenkaku.com/

How to get there? 

(1) Complimentary pick up service from Nagato Yumoto JR Station 長門湯本駅
Gyokusenkaku provides complimentary shuttle service to/fro Nagato Yumoto JR Station. To utilise this service, you will need to inform the ryokan beforehand by phone call, on your expected arrival time at the train station. Do note that Nagato Yumoto JR Station is an unmanned train station in a rather secluded town, so taxi may be scarce. For my trip, I engaged the help of a hotel staff to make the transport arrangement on the day before my stay.

(2) By foot, takes about 10 minutes from Nagato Yumoto JR Station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵

Stayed 25.04.2015 (Sat)
Reserved thru' Jalan.net.
Room 206 Kirinso 麒麟草; three person with half board = 34,560 yen/pax

Most luxurious. Being one of the most popular hot spring town in Yamaguchi Prefecture, there were numerous accommodation options to choose from here in Yuda Onsen. Had in mind to avoid more touristy or commercialised hotels/ryokans and eventually landed on Kokian after some research. With only 16 rooms available, it met my first criteria of not being too crowded. Having said that, this would mean that I have to pay a much higher price to enjoy this privilege. Indeed, based on the price per night stay here, I will classify Kokian as a luxury or high end accommodation. Was contemplating whether I should splurge on an expensive stay while on the other hand, I was deeply attracted to the overall concept of Kokian depicted on its homepage. Eventually, my desire fueled my decision and I chalked up the most pricey stay in Yuda Onsen in this Chugoku episode. I have to say that Kokian lived up to expectations (and price of course) and what I found best about Kokian is how they managed to create this secluded setting despite being surrounded by major roads, other high rise hotels and residential buildings.

Omotenashi. Right from the moment we met the ryokan staff at Yuda Onsen JR Station, we were already showered by the strong omentonashi spirit displayed by Japanese. A well groomed man who was in his sixties and extremely eloquent in English came to pick us up at the train station. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by a lady staff who was already waiting for us at the entrance. The lounge was spacious and has a japanese western outlook. Warm towel was handed over to us and kombu tea was served while check-in procedure was proceeded smoothly. As usual, we were given a brief introduction of the facilities the hotel was equipped with, questions such as what our preferred dinning timings were for both meals and whether we had any dietary allergies were asked. Upon request, they also helped to reserve this 1 hour course sightseeing taxi (a collaboration between Yuda Onsen Ryokan Association and local taxi) for the next morning which we utilised to visit Rurikoji Pagoda 瑠璃光寺五重塔 and liaise with the staff of Gyokusenkaku (the accommodation we stayed on the following day) to pick us up from Nagato Yumoto JR Station in the late afternoon. This additional service is something that I am extremely appreciative of. One other scene I could vividly recall happened after our departure from Kokian. After we checked out of the ryokan, the staff drove us to the nearest bus stop to catch the bus heading for Akiyoshidou 秋芳洞. When the bus passed by Kokian, we were surprised to see two staff (including the well groomed uncle who chauffeured us on both days) stood by and waving to bade farewell to us!

Room. We were assigned to the room named Kirinso 麒麟草 located on the second floor of a separate building connected to the lobby via a sheltered walkway. Rooms on the ground floor, which are steeper in price, has a small pool extended in front of the patio - suitable for families with kids to play in. Room has both western and Japanese elements incorporated into its design. There are two double beds and for the third person and above, futons are placed on a tatami laid section of the room. There is a living room where an electrically operated fireplace, three-seater sofa, reclining armchair and coffee machine counter were spaciously arranged. The patio became my favourite spot in the room as I could enjoy the cool weather while relaxing on the rattan furniture here. Every room has a dedicated outdoor hot spring tub connected to the shower room, - this was where I had the luxury to enjoy a morning soak in my own private space before heading for breakfast. One other noteworthy mention was the high quality of fabrics used on the covers of sofa, cushions and blanket which were so smooth and comfortable to touch.

Hot spring. There are two bathhouses separated by gender named Karugamo (for gents) and Mimizu (for ladies). Each bathhouse has both indoor and outdoor section, and the size of the pools are way more spacious than I thought considering this is a boutique style accommodation. Adore the landscaping in the rotenburo (outdoor pool) where aesthetically pleasant water features such as water wall, stoned lined pool, etc were utilised. After an unwinding soak in the hot spring, guests can help themselves to ice-cream, cans of soft drink, calpis and green tea stored in the bar fridge located in the common resting area. There is also a foot bath situated just outside the main lobby building facing the huge grass carpeted compound. The water gushing out from the sources of Yuda Onsen is colourless and alkaline hot spring waters and can reach a maximum of 72 degC. Due to its alkaline nature, the hot spring waters nourishes and beautifies the skin. Apart from this therapeutic effect, it has been used to treat ailments such as neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain and recovery from exhaustion.

Extravagant meals. The greatest highlight of my stay at Kokian has got to be its extraordinary and exquisite meals prepared by the chef. I am honoured to have witness/experience for myself a masterly display of culinary skills and plating techniques by the kitchen to create a line up of dishes that intrigued my senses throughout the entire course of meal. This was truly an unforgettable dinning experience!

- Nakachoko 中猪口: Pickled wasabi with grilled yuba mochi (tofu skin), which is meant to be a palate cleanser dish.  

- Appetiser 前菜: Shrimp, fish pickled with nanban sauce, vegetable and salmon maki, broad bean, carrot castella.

- Sashimi 造里: Tiger prawn, sea bream, maguro, flounder, amberjack, squid and white clam. The small cube of maguro was the best out of all and it literally "melted" in my mouth. 

- Oshinogi お凌ぎ: Three vegetable nigiri sushi - bamboo shoot, ginger and hanakori 花っこりー, a hybrid between choy sum and broccoli cultivated in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The term "oshinogi" is something new to me. After some research, I found out it means food to surpass hunger and is usually one of the first few dishes served at the start of the kaiseki course.

- Nimono (stewed dish) 煮物: Tender stewed pork with potato sauce.
- Suimono 小吸物: Clear broth soup infused with the sweetness of sea urchin (or uni) and leek.
- Nabemono (hot pot) 鍋物: Soy milk hot pot with ingredients such as sea bream, scallop, squid, John Dory, lettuce, potherb mustard (suzuna), Shimeji mushroom, Shiitake mushroom, Enoki mushroom, carrot and onion.

- Agemono (fried dish) 揚げ物: Fried tempura of Japanese whiting, fiddlehead greens and young corn.
- Sunomono (vingeared dish) 酢の物: Thinly sliced anago served with cucumber wave garnish, wakame seaweed and ginger. There was one joke which arose to this dish. In the menu, the kanji for this dish was written as 蛇腹 (pronounced as "jabara"). In Mandarin, it means snake stomach and I was startled thinking that there was snake meat in it! After clarifying with the waiter, I realized it was referring to the wave like decorative cutting of the cucumber garnish.
- Yosara (western dish) 洋皿: Yuda roast wagyu beef tenderloin.
- Tomewan (last dish served with rice and tsukemono) 留椀: Shijimi clams in red miso paste soup.

- Kanmi (sweets) 甘味: Scoop of handmade ice-cream.

Typical Japanese style breakfast was served on the following morning - grilled fish being the main dish. Ended my meal with a delicious piece of mille crepe cake, accompanied with coffee/tea. Yet another moment of indulgence!

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Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵
〒753-0056 山口県山口市湯田温泉2-7-1
http://kokian.co.jp/
Contact number: (+81)083-920-1810
Email:info@kokian.co.jp

How to get there?
(1) By foot. About 10 minutes walk from Yuda Onsen JR Station 湯田温泉駅.

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Video: An introductory video on Kokian.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Via Inn Hiroshima ヴィアイン広島

Stayed 24.04.2015 (Fri)
Reserved via Jalan.net
- Single A room (with breakfast) = 7,800 yen
- Economy twin room (without breakfast) = 10,000 yen

Convenience & bonus. Via Inn Hiroshima beats other competitors hands down in terms of location - hotel is less than a minute walk away from Hiroshima JR Station. Via Inn is a relatively new brand under JR West group, following identical operating model like other popular budget business hotel chain such as Toyoko Inn and Super Hotel. Rooms are compact with limited walking space (economy twin room area is only 12 m2, similar to its single room) but enough for a good night rest. In fact, the decor of Via Inn's lobby is much more classy than what I have anticipated it to be (especially for a budget business hotel). Chic design and spacious environment make guests feel very comfortable upon arrival at the hotel lobby. Chose this hotel because its economy twin room was a bargain, especially for its strategic location. Its close proximity also allow half of the rooms to take in views of the train station, observe the commotion on the platforms and occasionally hear muffled sounds from trains - a bonus for train fans!

A peek at the train station at night from my room. I was really that close to the train station!

Daytime.

Complete with breakfast. There is no cafeteria in the hotel. Instead, Via Inn collaborates with two eateries situated right in front of the hotel, to provide breakfast for their guests. Guests are give the choice of western or Japanese style breakfast which is served in Cafe Di Espresso and Eki Zen (駅膳), respectively. Had the western breakfast set comprised of sandwiches and a drink.

What's nearby?

(1) Hiroshima Electric Railway (Streetcar) Station, located in front of Hiroshima JR Station South Exit.
- To Genbaku Dome (Atomic Bomb Dome) and Heiwa Kinen Koen (Peace Memorial Park), take Streetcar Route 1, 2 or 6 and alight at Genbaku Dome mae (原爆ドーム前).
Hiroden 広島電鉄: http://www.hiroden.co.jp/en/index.html

(2) Bus stops, located in front of Hiroshima JR Station South Exit.
Do note that the bus stop to board airport limousine bus departing for Hiroshima Airport is located on the Shinkansen exit of Hiroshima JR Station. 
Airport Limousine Bus: http://www.hiroko-group.co.jp/kotsu/kousoku/limousine/unchin-jikoku.htm

(3) Hiroshima Higashi Post Office 広島東郵便局; the building on the right upon exiting from the hotel.
Website: http://map.japanpost.jp/p/search/dtl/300151615000/?&cond200=1&&his=ar,nm

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Via Inn Hiroshima ヴィアイン広島
〒732-0822　広島県広島市南区松原町2-50
http://www.viainn.com/hiroshima/
1 min walk from Hiroshima JR Station South Exit.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Hotel Flex ホテルフレックス, Cafe 43 (Kyarantotorowa キャランとトロワ)

Stayed 22.04.2015 - 23.04.2015 (2 nights)

Reserved thru' Jalan.net.

- Single Room (with breakfast) = 5,500 yen (facing buildings; 11 m2)

- Twin Room (with breakfast) = 11,000 yen (facing river; 23 m2)

Atypical. It was definitely atypical for me to choose a hotel which is not near the train station especially when I am staying in a city area. Came upon Hotel Flex when I was searching for accommodation in Hiroshima and was immediately attracted to its minimalist concept. Had second thoughts when I found out about its location (from the train station, we have to cross two bridges with our luggage) but could not suppress the desire to spend at least a night in this designer hotel. Have planned to stay in Hiroshima for three nights; eventually decided to allocate the first two nights for Hotel Flex and the last night to stay put in Via Inn Hiroshima, which is located just beside the train station.

Designer hotel. Situated on the riverbank where Kyobashi river and Enko river diverges; rooms facing east can get an excellent view of the river. Hotel Flex employs similar operating philosophy like other budget business hotels; however what makes it stands out from its competitors is its affordable yet boutique quality. Utilisation of white and blue as the main colour scheme and wooden parquet flooring bring out this comfy ambience that makes guest feel at home during their stay. Despite the small floor area of their guest rooms (only 11 m2 for single room), excellent space optimization was able to create adequate walking area within the compact living space. In fact, I was already quite enraptured by the dimmed lights in the lobby upon arrival at the hotel in the evening. It is amazing to see how different elements complements one another - bare and rustic concrete walls, modern wooden furniture and sophisticated chandelier lights, all in one space. Everything in general was good, and Hotel Flex is definitely one place that I will fondly remember Hiroshima city for.

Designer cafe. Cafe 43 occupies the first floor of Hotel Flex and both the hotel and cafe share the same service counter. Semi alfresco style with subtle European flair, makes you want to enjoy a moment of luxury here, allowing time to sweep past slowly over a cup of coffee or relaxed meal. On our first night here, we decided to try their popular handmade pan galette (a pancake made with buckwheat flour). Ordered two different kinds to share - caramel nuts (キャラメルナッツ) and berries with creamy vanilla sauce. Each order comes in three mouth watering pancakes, all crispy golden brown on the outside and soft on the inside. Their version of pancake is thicker and dense in texture. For me, one order was too stomach filling; will recommend to share with other 2 person especially if you decide to have it for dessert after lunch/dinner. My stay with Hotel Flex also came with breakfast; each set came with a sandwich, yogurt, fruit and drink (coffee, tea and juices). There is a variety of sandwich fillings to choose from; had duck ham and raspberry, and chicken and basil on two separate mornings. Both were equally good. Breakfast is something I treasure a lot whenever I am on holidays; and such simple and well balanced breakfast in a conducive environment is the best way to start off the day right. 

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Hotel Flex ホテルフレックス
〒730-0014　広島県広島市中区上幟町7-1

Approx 10 mins walk from Hiroshima JR Station.
http://www.hotel-flex.co.jp/

Cafe 43 (Kyarantotorowa キャランとトロワ)
1st floor of Hotel Flex
Operating hours: 0700 - 1000 hrs; 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 2100 hrs
http://aglolywithatable.net/43/hiroshima

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Kai Izumo 界 出雲

Stayed 21.04.2015 (1 night)

Reserved thru' Jalan.net.

3 pax/room, inclusive of half board = 27,000 yen/pax + 150 yen/pax (bathing tax) 

Debut stay! Have read a lot of exceptional reviews on hotels and ryokans under Hoshino group in numerous travel guidebooks. One of their brands - Kai aims to bring out the "omotenashi" (hospitality) spirit of Japanese and elevate traditional hot springs ryokans in Japan to a whole new level of experience. And finally in this episode of my travel series of Japan, I found the chance to stay in Kai Izumo (界 出雲) situated in Tamatsukuri Onsen, a well known hot spring town in Shimane Prefecture. In fact, this extraordinary experience has also fueled my decisions during later trips to Japan to stay with Kai when opportunities arise - in 2016, Kai Tsugaru (界 津軽) in Aomori Prefecture, and Kai Matsumoto (界 松本) in Nagano Prefecture; in 2017, Kai Kaga (界 加賀) in Kanazawa Prefecture, Kai Izu (界 伊豆) and Kai Enshu (界 遠州), both in Shizuoka Prefecture. Despite staying in Kai on so many occasions, I am still looking forward to do so in future. What exactly make Kai so endearing and outstanding? 

Bridge connecting the lobby to the guestrooms.

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Highlights

Lobby.

Omotenashi. Took a taxi from Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station and arrived at the doorstep of Kai Izumo just before 3 pm. What amazed me was there was already a staff standing by at the entrance to assist us (as if she knew that we were coming)! The staff helped us to carry some of our luggage and led us to the lobby where we told to sit down to wait for her colleague who will take care of our check-in procedure. While waiting, hot towel and green tea was served. Knowing that we were not locals, a staff who could converse in English was assigned to serve us. First, he ensured my particulars were correct and requested politely for our passports as part of check-in procedure. Next, he returned with a map of the ryokan and pointed out to us where the main facilities such as bathhouse and dining area were. Lastly, he checked with us what were our preferred dinning timings for both meals and whether we had any food allergies that they should take note of. After that, he brought us to our room which was located on the second floor of the building.

When we were in the room, he invited us to sit down around the center table and continued to explain to us patiently what were the features available in the room, where the yutaka were kept and check with us whether the size of the yutaka was right. He did all these while seated in the formal Japanese way, with the legs tucked under the butt. After affirming that he had addressed all our concerns, he thanked us for staying with them and hoped that we would enjoy our stay here. His next action impressed me most! Instead of standing up to walk out of the room, he maintained his kneeling position with his front facing us and shifted himself out of the room. Just before he closed the sliding door, he bowed to us again with a humble smile. This was the first time I felt such a strong sense of hospitality from any hotel/ryokan I have stayed with and even till today, the entire process still remained vividly in the mind.

Participated in the outdoor Japanese tea ceremony.

Tradition. After check in, we were informed that there was an outdoor tea ceremony which we could attend. This is an activity held daily, between 1530 to 1830 hours, and is unique to Kai Izumo. Japanese tea ceremony culture is deeply rooted in Matsue city (where Kai Izumo is located in) due to strong influence by Matsudaira Harusato (松平不昧公), a feudal lord who ruled Matsue domain in the 18th century. Came to a garden located in the center of the compound and sat around an elevated tatami laid platform where a professional tea master was waiting to serve us. After we exchanged greetings, he pulled out a tray of confectionery from a small wooden shelf and asked us to enjoy the sweets while he prepared the matcha. He executed all the procedure skillfully in a sitting kneel posture; scooping the right amount of matcha powder and water into a bowl, and whisking the mixture till the right consistency was achieved. After the matcha was served, he even demonstrated to us how we should enjoy our drink. Looks simple but Japanese tea ceremony is a culture that requires precision to execute and patience to fully appreciate the entire process.

Top right: Hot spring tub in our room.

Room and facilities. Kai Izumo has 24 rooms and every room has its dedicated outdoor hot spring enclosure where guests can enjoy anytime in their own private space. We were assigned to a room on the second level, which is relatively less expensive than the rooms on the first floor. The hot spring tub is lined with Shigaraki yaki (信楽焼) ceramic tiles which is originated from Shiga Prefecture. Within the building, there is also a library where guests can sit around to read travel books and enjoy a cup of coffee/tea while browsing. This was a place I like to hang out at after meals or comfortable soak.

Library.

Indoor hot spring pool.

Rejuvenating hot spring. The hot spring source in Tamatsukuri Onsen is well known for its rejuvenating effects on the skin and is especially popular among women. Guests can enjoy soaking into the beautification spring either in their room or the communal bathrooms. There are two bathrooms which are separated by gender and each has its own indoor and outdoor sections. In the center of the indoor pool, there is a small, exquisite ornament which resembles Izumo Taisha and hot spring waters is continuously flowing out from it to the pool. Towels are available in the communal bathhouse, therefore you do not need to bring the ones provided in the guestrooms.

What is the best thing to do after a soak? For me, I always like to hydrate myself with chilled water which is typically provided in the changing room or common area. In Kai Izumo, guests are treated to tea, juice and even ice lollies which are made in house! For a moment I felt like a kid all over again; excited to see a ice cream freezer and pampered by these small delectable treats! 

Exceptional meals. In Kai, the menu varies with seasons and is attentively designed to simulate both your tastebuds and vision. Love the way they make use of seasonal ingredients and present food unique to that region/area where the ryokan is situated in. For every dish served on the table, the staff would explain the dish in detail and recommend the best way to savor the food. Enjoyed myself thoroughly, from the start to the end, in all aspects that I can think of - taste, visual and ambience.  

- Appetizer: Raw mosa shrimp, caught from the Sea of Japan by bottom trawling, with several condiments to accompany with; flavoured salt, olive oil and sudachi lime.

- An assortment of eight delicacies (Hassun 八寸): Hassun is beautifully plated dish made up of delicacies harvested from the land and sea. Sakura shrimp in Matsukaze sauce, soramame beans jelly dumplings with Jyunsai plant, Akagai clams and scallions in miso, trout sushi with Japanese pepper on the top, Nanohana flowers in sesame dressing, five coloured potato fritters and Aigamo duck tenderloin were served.

- Soup: Clear soup with shrimp dumpling, Sakura mochi Kogomi fern sprout topped with Japanese pepper.

- Sashimi: Assorted array of fresh local fish (such as horse mackerel, seabass, tuna and seabream) and sea urchin.

- Tempura (agemono): Deep fried minced shrimp balls in shinbiki flour and wild plants, accompanied with green tea salt and lemon.

- Steamed dish (Futamono): Steamed eggplant and ground chicken layered in Hakata style served with colourful vegetable sauce and tomato miso.

- Main dish: We could choose either Shinjiko shijimi clams cooked in Cataplana pan or grilled wagyu beef tenderloin, sirloin and thinly sliced round steak served with three kinds of sauce. 

- Rice: Bamboo shoots seasoned rice served with tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and miso soup.

- Dessert: We chose three out of the five from the menu. I had cheese soufflé drizzled with raspberry sauce, while my parents had plum wine jelly with fruits and assorted ice cream and sherbet with jellied sweets. When we stayed with Kai Izumo that time, light snacks were served as supper -  coloured mochi accompanied with kombu tea.

Breakfast on the following day was equally amazing as well. An elegant tray with food contained in/put on exquisite bowls and plates was served - tofu cooked in flying fish soup, grilled sailfin sandfish, warabi wrapped with Kanpyo, chicken and tofu ball, boiled chinese yam and miso soup with Shijimi clams harvested from nearby Lake Shinji (宍道湖).

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Kai Izumo 界 出雲
〒699-0201 島根県松江市玉湯町玉造1237
https://kai-ryokan.jp/izumo/

How to get there?

(1) By local bus. Unfortunately, Kai Izumo does not provide complimentary shuttle service from Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station (玉造温泉駅). Board Ichibata Bus Tamatsukuri line (玉造線) from either Matsue JR Station or Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station heading for Tamatsukuri Onsen.
From Matsue JR Station, it takes about 30 minutes by bus.
From the bus stop nearest to Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station, it takes about 7 minutes by bus.
Bus schedule: https://www.ichibata.co.jp/bus/rosen/tamayu.html

(2) By taxi.
Journey takes about 5 minutes from Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station. Taxi fare = 850 yen

(3) By foot. It takes about 35 minutes from Tamatsukuri Onsen JR Station.

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Videos:

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Super Hotel Izumo Ekimae スーパーホテル出雲駅前

Stayed 20.04.2015 (Mon)
Reserved via Jalan.net
- Semi Double Bedroom (for one person) = 5,480 yen
- Super Room (for two person) = 8,980 yen

Right: Double bed on lower deck and single bed on upper deck.

Pleasant debut. This was my first time staying with Super Hotel. The main reason for choosing Super Hotel this time round was its strategic location to the train station. At the end of my stay here, I was pleasantly satisfied with various aspects of this hotel, to the point that there is nothing to nitpick about. One of the features I like to rave about Super Hotel is their extraordinary collection (in my opinion) of pillows to choose from at the front desk - catered to ensure hotel guests get a good night rest. Apart from that, their complimentary breakfast selection offered is one of the best when compared to equivalent budget business hotels in Japan. Have stayed in several Super Hotel after that (in Matsumoto and Osaka) and have experienced similar service standards in all these branches I have stayed in. Follow a separate post I have written for Super Hotel Matsumoto Ekimae.

Double deck bed. Similar to other competitors with same operating model, all basic amenities are well taken care of here. In Super Hotel, an electronic lock system is utilised for their guestrooms. Upon check-in, the staff will issue a slip of paper with a numerical password. Guest will have to key in the password on the number padlock found on the door of the assigned room in order to unlock it. Do carry this slip of paper when you leave the room or alternatively take a photo of the password as soon as you receive it. My parents stayed in the Super Room which can occupy up to two person. It comprises of two beds - a double bed which is 140 cm in width and a single bed on the upper deck. I did a quick check on their hotel website and realised that the maximum occupants per room has been reduced to two for this particular branch (I recalled for a Super Room in the past, it was able to hold up to three person). Therefore, do take note of this limitation when making the room reservation.

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What's nearby?

(1) Izumo-shi JR Station 出雲市駅.

(2) Ichibata Dentetsu Izumo-shi 一畑電車電鉄出雲市駅, located on the North Exit of Izumo-shi JR Station.
https://www.ichibata.co.jp/railway/operate/stations/05.html
From this starting station, board the train and alight at Kawato (川跡); transfer to another train heading for Izumo Taisha (出雲大社) if you want to visit one of the most prestigious landmarks of Shimane Prefecture. Otherwise continue your journey to the terminus station, Matsue Shinjiko Onsen (松江しんじ湖温泉).

(3) Ichibata Departmental Store 一畑百貨店出雲店
There is a small scale shopping centre (only one floor) located on the North Exit of Izumo-shi JR Station.
Operating hours: 1000 - 1830 hrs
http://www.ichibata.co.jp/dept/izumo/

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Super Hotel Izumo Ekimae スーパーホテル出雲駅前
〒693-0008　島根県出雲市駅南町1丁目3番地3
http://www.superhotel.co.jp/s_hotels/izumo/izumo.html

How to get there?
A stone throw away from Izumo-shi JR Station South Exit (Minami Guchi).

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mansuirou 万翠楼

Stayed 19.04.2015 (1 night)

Reserved thru' Jalan.net.

3 pax/room with half board = 47,430 yen; inclusive of 150 yen/pax (bathing tax)

Mansuirou, seen from Misasa Bridge. 

Radioactive waters. Misasa Onsen is situated in Tottori Prefecture and was discovered almost 800 years ago. A small town hidden in the suburbs, it takes approximately 25 minutes by bus to reach Misasa-cho from Kurayoshi JR Station. What is unique about the hot spring waters here is it contains high level of radon. Radon (or represented by Rn in the Periodic Table) is actually produced by the decay of a naturally occurring radioactive element called radium (Ra). There has been some controversies/debates with regards to the health effects arising from radon inhalation. Radon gas is scientifically known as a hazardous gas which can lead to lung cancer from long term exposure. Having said that, radon level in hot spring waters when it reaches consumers is considerably lower than the source and the effective dosage may eventually be the same as background radiation. Historically, mankind has used radon therapy (i.e. soaking in radon containing hot spring waters) to treat illnesses. Tiny amounts of radon inhaled is said to have radiation hormesis effect, by"stimulating and increasing the activity of the body’s cells, resulting in the activation of our metabolism", thereby improving "the immune system and natural healing ability". 

Read more about Misasa Onsen here: http://spa-misasa.jp/eng/radium/

View from our room!

Facilities and room. Mansuirou is mid scale hotel with 44 rooms and strategically located at the end of Misasa Bridge (三朝橋) and the infamous public outdoor hot spring bath - Kawaburo (河原風呂), constructed in the open river. Front desk and lounge are located on the second level. The lounge is pretty spacious and grand looking, with wide glass panels overlooking a landscaped Japanese style garden. The lounge also offers drinks and snacks to guests (at a fee) during stipulated operating hours. There is a shop located on the same floor, where guests can purchase local/regional souvenirs and specialties anytime before checking out of the hotel. As for the room, we were extremely delighted to be given a wide one with 12.5 tatami mats, which has more than adequate room space to fit three futons. The balcony became one of my favourite corners in the room because a panoramic view of the tranquil town can be seen clearly from here. In fact, the location was what I like most about Mansuirou - very scenic view could be seen from the room and only separated from the local streets by a river. 

Top right: lounge; Bottom right: Shop; Bottom left: Rest area after soaking in hot spring.

Bottom left: Tottori Prefecture's crab senbei placed in our room.

Radon onsen. The communal bathhouses, named Oyakushisama no yu お薬師さまの湯, are beautifully constructed and spacious. There are two bathhouses, each dedicated to a gender, and are swapped for the opposite gender to utilise on the next day. Each bathhouse has both indoor and outdoor pools. Guests get to soak in radon containing waters, which is exclusive to Misasa Onsen, and piped all the way from the source. The hot spring waters are classified as sodium chloride, sodium hydrogen carbonate and simple type, and has proven to have beneficial effects in alleviating illnesses such as bronchitis, emphysema, arthritis, lower back pain, etc. 

Top right: Assorted tempura; Bottom right: Seafood cooked on hot stone; Top left: Sashimi platter of the day; Bottom left: Appetiser.

Top: Hataka oshi style layered cabbage and tomato, grilled rainbow trout and dessert. Bottom: Beef sukiyaki and dinning area.  

Meals. Enjoyed a sumptuous and delicious kaiseki or multi course Japanese dinner in their private dining rooms. Started the course with a small glass of nashi (or pear) wine to warm the body and aesthetically plated appetiser dish. For tsukuri (sashimi), it was a fresh seafood platter comprised of salmon, tuna, squid, sea bream, sweet shrimp and shell fish. We were surprised to see the next dish served was also raw seafood (Japanese tiger prawn and squid) but only enlightened after the staff placed a hot stone on our table, which we were supposed to cook the seafood on. This was my first time employing this method of cooking for seafood instead of meat. Different from meat which contains oil, the seafood got stuck on the surface of the hot stone while cooking. Therefore, we had to peel and flip the seafood to the other side constantly to prevent them from getting burnt.

Tempura was amazing and we were particularly elated to see a crab leg served together with seasonal vegetables. For yakimono (grilled food), we each had a rainbow trout harvested from nearby Mitoku (三徳); loved particularly the crispy and lightly salt rubbed skin, which enhanced the sweetness of the meat when eaten together. Next was sukiyaki with thinly sliced, slightly marbled beef. Layered cabbage and tomato pressed together like sushi, known as Hakata-oshi style (博多押し), was something special on the menu. Dessert was yellow grapefuit jelly and this finally wrapped up the 11 course kaiseki dinner.

Breakfast.

Breakfast was less extravagant than dinner. A slice of grilled dried fish and kombu, tofu soup, a few slices of sashimi and various salads were served for breakfast. Overall, I was quite satisfied by both meals served by Manisurou. 

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Mansuirou 万翠楼
〒682-0122 鳥取県東伯郡三朝町山田5

http://www.mansuirou.co.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) Utilise the complimentary pick up service.
An act of hospitality demonstrated by many hotels/ryokans, Mansuirou provides both pick up and return bus services from and to Kurayoshi JR Station. Please inform the staff (at the point of room reservation or via email) beforehand if you intend to utilise this complimentary service (state the time you would like to be pick up from the train station).
Email: info@mansuirou.co.jp

(2) Hinomaru bus (日の丸バス) via Misasa line (三朝線), from Kurayoshi JR Station (倉吉駅).
There are regular bus services (hourly) commuting between Kurayoshi JR Station and Misasa Onsen. Board the bus from the train station and alight at Misasa Onsen Kanko Shoko Center Mae (in front of Misasa Onsen Tourist Information Center; 三朝温泉観光商工センター前). Bus journey is about 25 mins; fare = 470 yen. Takes another 5 mins to travel by foot from the bus stop to Mansuirou via Misasabashi (三朝橋).
Bus schedule
- Weekdays: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/k-004.pdf
- Weekends: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/k-104.pdf