Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Zao Okama 蔵王御釜

Visited 23.05.2016 (Mon)



2nd time lucky. In fact, this is my second attempt to come up close to a crater lake. Visited Mt Aso, an active volcano in Kyushu, in 2014 but did not manage to come up close to Nakadake 中岳 crater due to erratic volcanic activity. Was luckier this time round as I got to see a crater lake of Mt Zao 蔵王連峰, an active volcano which stands at 1,841 tall and spans across two prefectures - Yamagata and Miyagi. Situated within the perimeter of Miyagi Prefecture, the crater lake was given the name "Okama 御釜" due its resemblance to a cooking pot containing hot boiling waters.　

Arrived at Kaminoyama Onsen Station to catch the Green Echo-go bus, a complimentary shuttle service, for Katta chairlift station. The entire bus journey took an hour, inclusive of a 15 minutes brief stop at Zao Liza World 蔵王ライザワールド, where passengers can alight here for toilet break and / or take a quick bite at the restaurant. Upon reaching Katta Parking Area, the terminus station of the Green Eco-go bus, I made my way swiftly to the ticket counter to purchase the round trip chairlift ticket and hop onto the chairlift. As the next bus departing from Katta Parking Area for Kaminoyama Onsen Station was an hour later, I had to move fast such that I could maximise my stay here to admire Okama, as much as possible.







Crossover. During the ascend, the mountainous landscape with growing ground cover and scattered patches of melting snow was gradually unveiled. While on the chairlift, I caught sight of a small wooden signboard which said "ここから山形県 (from this point onwards, Yamagata Prefecture)". This was when I realised that I have already crossed the prefectural border once from Yamagata to Miyagi Prefecture during the bus ride from Kaminoyama Onsen Station to Katta Parking Area.







Breathtaking. Alighted excitedly at the summit station, but discovered Okama was not within sight yet. Followed the directional signs and walked along the path made up of volcanic sand to the first observatory spot. I was totally blown away by the unobstructed, panoramic landscape that came into sight - a huge crater surrounded by mountain ranges and filled with still, emerald green coloured waters. White patches of snow cover which were remnant from winter, further enhanced the contrast of this breathtaking scenery. Zao Okama truly fits the description of being a dangerous yet beautiful place that one can find on earth.







More breathtaking. Noticed most tourists continued to trek towards the direction where Kattamine Jinja 刈田嶺神社 (Kattamine Shrine) is situated and decided to follow suit. Glad that I did that as I found the view here better than the former. Maybe due to the slight gain in altitude and shift in viewing orientation, the scenery has less disturbances from man-made installation (such as fences) and looked even more impressive!









Symbol. Prior to this trip, I only know Mt Zao for the intriguing snow monsters (odd-looking, snow covered trees due to heavy snowfall and freezing winds) that appear during the bitter cold winter period. In my opinion, the mysteriously beautiful and stunning Okama (which is closed during winter) is equally deserving to be known as the symbol of Mt Zao and is an amazing nature's work of creation which is precious to come by.

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Zao Okama 蔵王御釜
宮城県蔵王国定公園内
Closed between Nov and Apr
http://www.town.zao.miyagi.jp/kankou/guide/look.html#look02

How to get there?

(1) From Kaminoyama Onsen Station かみのやま温泉駅 , board the Green / White Echo-go bus グリーンエコー号/ ワイトエコー号バス. This is a complimentary shuttle service which departs from the train station for Katta Parking Area 刈田駐車場. Transfer to a chairlift here and alight at the summit station 刈田リフト山頂駅. Green Echo-go bus makes two round trip per day during its operational period from late April to early November, while the White Echo-go bus operates one round trip between November to mid December.

- Green / White Echo-go bus グリーンエコー号/ ワイトエコー号バス: http://kaminoyama-spa.com/access/
- Katta Lift 刈田リフト: http://www.zaoliza.co.jp/smmr/trekking/kattalift.html
Chairlift round trip = 750 yen; Single trip = 450 yen



(2) From Shiroishi Zao Station 白石蔵王駅, board Miyagi Kotsu Bus 宮城交通バス Zao High line 蔵王ハイライン and alight at Zao Katta Sancho / Zao Katta Summit 蔵王刈田山頂, the terminus bus stop. The bus makes two round trip per day during weekends and public holidays from late April to early November. Bus fare = 1,980 yen.
http://www.miyakou.co.jp/cp/zao/timesche.pdf



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Commemorative stamp:

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Ajitasuke main branch 味太助 本店

Visited 12.05.2016 (Thu)

Specialty. Prior to my first visit to Sendai in Oct 2015, I have only tasted beef tongue once while having BBQ in Taipei. Probably my amateurish cooking skills did not do justice to the beef tongue (as I had to barbecue the meat myself), I did not find it particularly delicious at that point of time. While researching on the gourmet food to savour while in Sendai, I was surprised to find out that beef tongue was top on the list. This local specialty was so popular to the point that it created a beef tongue street (gyu tongue dori 牛タン通り), located on the 3rd floor of Sendai JR Station, which is lined up with restaurants offering this dish. After reading numerous rave reviews, I decided to give it another try when I was in Sendai. Visited Beko Masamune Nakakecho branch べこ政宗 名掛丁店 (which is now permanently closed) to relish this local favorite on my first trip to Sendai. This outing changed my impression of gyu tongue completely and I became a fan since then!

- Gyu tongue dori 牛タン通り: https://www.livit.jregroup.ne.jp/detail/435

[Oct 2015] Beef tongue teishoku at the former Beko Masamune Nakakecho branch. Set comprised of grilled beef tongue, steamed white rice with barely and oxtail soup.

[Oct 2015] Former Beko Masamune Nakakecho branch, where I had beef tongue in Sendai for the first time.

Second outing. On my second visit to Sendai in May 2016, I patronised another restaurant (Ajitasuke) to revisit the flavour of grilled gyu tongue and the dinning experience was even better than that at Beko Masamune! Ajitasuke is said to be the pioneer of beef tongue in Sendai and traces its history to more than half a century ago. In 1948, the first generation owner of Ajitasuke 味太助, which started out first as a yakitori stall, learnt about beef tongue stew from a French chef while undergoing culinary training in Tokyo. He decided to improvise the taste of beef tongue to suit Japanese liking and tested it on the grill. When Ajitasuke moved its businesses to Sendai post war, grilled beef tongue was offered on its menu and it soon became its signature dish. Its immense popularity eventually led to growing number of restaurants in Sendai mastering this dish and grilled beef tongue rose to become a trademark, almost analogous to Sendai.

Delicious. Was brought to the counter seat where I could observe the dynamics in an open kitchen. Ordered the teishoku or set meal which had three slices of grilled beef tongue. The set meal came with a side of pickled vegetables, a bowl of fragrant steamed white rice with barley (mugi-gohan) and a bowl of flavourful oxtail soup with Japanese leek. The slices of beef tongue were marinated with salt and soy sauce and left overnight before they are grilled over charcoal flames masterfully to infuse a smoky flavour and served to the guests. My picky tastebuds were blown away by the delicious beef tongue - the meat was well marinated and the texture was not chewy at all. The entire meal was extremely satisfying as I savoured each slice of beautifully grilled beef tongue carefully and slurped away the umami packed oxtail soup. This is truly one dish which I will specially return to Sendai for!



Menu:
- Teishoku A for 1 person: 3 slices of grilled beef tongue, oxtail soup and white rice with barley [1,800 yen]
- Teishoku B for 1.5 person: 4 slices of grilled beef tongue, oxtail soup and white rice with barley [2,100 yen]

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Ajitasuke main branch 味太助 本店
〒980-0811 宮城県仙台市青葉区一番町四丁目4-13
Operating hours: 1130 - 2200 hrs, closed on Tuesdays

https://www.aji-tasuke.co.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By Sendai Subway and walk.

From Sendai subway station 仙台駅 (N10), take the train on Namboku line 南北線 heading for Izumi Chuo and alight at Kotodai Koen 勾当台公園 (N08). 3 minutes walk from South Exit 2.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Ganesh Tea Room Jozendori Branch ガネッシュ・ティールーム 定禅寺通店

Visited 12.05.2016 (Thu)





Cafe hunting. Took Loople Sendai Bus るーぷる仙台 to Jozendori 定禅寺通 after visited Site of Sendai Castle 仙台城跡. Had in mind to visit a cafe in Sendai and decided on Ganesh Tea Room ガネッシュ ティールーム since it is situated in the vicinity. Ganesh Tea Room is located on the second floor of a building (第3菊水ビル) and the cafe is easily identified by a vertical signboard with the name “Ganesh” printed on it, hanging outside the building. Took the elevator to the second floor and upon entering the cafe, I was immediately attracted to its homely and quiet atmosphere. Chose a window seat overlooking Jozendori and started browsing through their beautifully hand written and drawn menu. Wanted to have a cup of milk tea and there was a good variety to choose from - assam, rum, cinnamon, spice, mint and chamomile, and each tea flavour is accompanied by detailed description on its menu. Ordered a cup of rum milk tea and a slice of the cafe's signature black tea chiffon cake. The tea had a smooth consistency, with a subtle taste of alcohol complementing the fresh black tea flavour. On the other hand, the chiffon cake, infused with rich black tea flavour, was very fluffy and delicious. Overall, the outcome was better than expected and I was satisfied by this combination of cake and drink choice.







Quality. As Ganesh is the name of an elephant headed Hindu god, I speculated that this cafe specialises in Indian cuisine. Though it does serve Indian curries during lunch hour, I believe the name is largely attributed by the origin of tea leaves used in the cafe. Read from its menu (and from its homepage later on) that the owner of Ganesh Tea Room imports tea leaves that are secured through a tea auction in Calcutta, India. The reason being only the best tea leaves harvested during the season are sold through public auctions governed by Tea Board of India. Since its opening in 1984, Ganesh Tea Room has remained faithful to its vision of offering the best quality tea to its patrons for more than three decades, and continues to promote tea drinking culture in Japan.





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Ganesh Tea Room Jozendori Branch ガネッシュ・ティールーム 定禅寺通店
仙台市青葉区国分町3-3-3 第3菊水ビル 2F
Operating hours: 1000 - 2000 hrs
https://www.ganesh.co.jp/

How to get there?

(1) 3 minutes walk from Sendai Subway Kotodai Koen Station, Koen Exit 2 仙台地下鉄勾当台公園駅, 公園2.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Zuihoden Mausoleum 瑞鳳殿

Visited 12.05.2016 (Thu)



Heritage tour. On my first visit to Sendai, I felt that I did not explore this capital city of Miyagi Prefecture well enough (in fact I only visited Sendai Anpanman Museum and Shopping Mall). Decided to make it up this time round and picked two heritage sites to visit during my stay in Sendai, both related to Date Masamune 伊達政宗, one of the most influential feudal lord of the Date clan in the 17th century. Hopped onto Loople Sendai るーぷる仙台 (Sendai city's sightseeing loop bus) from the bus terminal on the west exit of Sendai JR Station heading for my first destination - Zuihoden 瑞鳳殿.

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Highlights / Background:

Influential. Date Masamune (1567 - 1636) was the first feudal lord of Sendai Domain during the Edo period. Due to his missing eye and remarkable military feat, Date Masamume earned the name "Dokuganryu" (独眼竜 single eye dragon). Under his rule, he make countless contributions such as the building of Sendai Castle at the age of 35, developing plains for rice cultivation and even invested in trading with Spain.



Holy ground. Kyogamine hill 経ヶ峰 is a holy ground for Date clan since this is where the tombs of Date Masamune, the 2nd (Date Tadamune 伊達忠宗), 3rd (Date Tsunamune 伊達綱宗), 9th and 11th feudal lords and their children were erected in. From the bus stop where Loople Sendai stops, visitors will have to ascend a slop followed by stone paved stairs, lined with sturdy cedar trees which are at least 380 years old, on its sides, before arriving at the ticket counter. There are a total of three mausoleums in the entire compound: Zuihoden 瑞鳳殿 (tomb of Date Masamune), Kansenden 感仙殿 (tomb of Date Tadamune) and Zen-oden 善応殿 (tomb of Date Tsunamune). Both Zuihoden and Kansenden were designated national treasures in 1931 for its Momoyama architecture style. Unfortnately, all three mausoleums were burnt down by air raids in 1945. Reconstruction began in 1974 to reinstate the mausoleums and this was eventually completed in 1985.

Zuihoden. The tour began at Nehanmon 涅槃門, the main gate of Zuihoden. The original gate had similar fate as the mausoleum and the current one was rebuilt from Aomori Hiba trees, that were several hundred years old. The gate was also decorated with elaborate carvings identical to its original state. In the compound of Zuihoden, apart from the mausoleum which houses the tomb of Date Masamune, there is a museum which showcases precious, excavated artifacts that were buried in the original tombs and replicated figures of the three feudal lords. The mausoleum has a pyramid type roof with edges gently curved upwards. With black utilised as the base colour, the mausoleum is embellished with beaming gold paint, colourful and exquisite carvings and emblems. The strong colour contrast, immaculate architecture and finely detailed decoration gave the mausoleum a glorious and luxurious feel. Spent a longer time than expected here to admire the intricate carvings of the lion head, phoenix and deities “guarding” the mausoleum.





Kansenden and Zen-oden. Moved on to Kansenden and Zen-oden which were both located on a different site from Zuihoden, but side by side each other. Kansenden 感仙殿 is the mausoleum of Date Tadamune (1599 - 1658), the 2nd feudal lord of Sendai Domain and the second son of Date Masamune. Zen-oden 善応殿 is the mausoleum of Date Tsunamune (1640 - 1711), the 3rd feudal lord of Sendai Domain and the sixth son of Date Tadamune. Though all three mausoleums are identical in terms of architectural style, Zuihoden has the most decorated carvings out of the three. Overall, I enjoyed the process of scrutinising the fine details displayed on the mausoleums, trying to spot the difference between them while being surrounded by lush greenery and tranquility. Apart from being an impressive architectural masterpiece to marvel at, Zuihoden is a place for younger generation to pay their respect to these historical figures who have contributed to the development of Sendai city.





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Zuihoden Mausoleum 瑞鳳殿
宮城県仙台市青葉区霊屋《おたまや》下23-2
Operating hours:
- Feb to Nov: 0900 - 1630 hrs
- Dec to Jan: 0900 - 1600 hrs
Admission fee = 550 yen
* 100 yen discount with one day Loople Sendai pass るーぷる仙台一日乗車券 or one day pass for Loople Sendai and Sendai Subway るーぷる仙台・地下鉄共通一日乗車券
https://www.zuihoden.com/

How to get there?

(1) By Loople Sendai bus るーぷる仙台バス.
Board the Loople Sendai bus from Bus stop / Platform 16 at Sendai JR Station West Exit Bus Terminal and alight at Zuihoden Mausoleum mae 瑞鳳殿前. Bus ride takes approx 15 minutes.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Site of Sendai Castle 仙台城跡

Visited 12.05.2016 (Thu)
No. of castles visited to date: 10
Top 100 castles in Japan: #8



After Zuihoden mausoleum, I hopped onto Loople Sendai bus again to continue my Sendai heritage expedition. The second destination was the site at which Sendai Castle was previously located on. The castle was built by Date Masamune (1567 - 1636), the first feudal lord of Sendai Domain during the Edo period, in 1602 when he was just 35 years old.



Remains. Arrived at the entrance to the main compound (honmaru 本丸) of Sendai Castle. As Sendai Castle is built on the Mt Aoba, it is also referred to as Aoba Castle. The castle is actually made up of three compounds - the main compound was where the former Ohiroma 大広間, the largest building of Sendai Castle was situated in; the second compound was built by Date Tadamune, the second feudal lord of Sendai Domain while the third compound is where Sendai City Museum currently sits on. The buildings and watch towers of Sendai Castle were destroyed by earthquakes as well as air raids in 1945 (during WWII). One of the watch towers (Wakiyagura 脇櫓) was reconstructed in 1965 and restoration works were carried out on the stone walls along the way.

Observatory. Today, the main compound, at an altitude of 115 m, also serves as an observatory for visitors to capture an overview of Sendai city. Though the view here is broader, I feel that the elevation is not sufficiently high enough to get a breathtaking bird's eye view of the city. Personally I prefer the view from AER Observation Terrace. There are display boards here which provided some insight on how Ohiroma and its rooms, such as Jodan no ma 上段の間 (where most important ceremonies and meetings held between the feudal lord and his retainers were held) and Jojodan no ma 上々段の間 (used during visits from the Imperial Family and the Shogun's family), looked like in the past.





Best photo taking spot. The center of attraction at the main compound has got to be the statue of Date Masamune riding on horse. This iconic symbol of today's Sendai Castle and the city is a tribute to Date Masamune, a influential feudal lord who founded the modern city of Sendai. Near the entrance of the main compound, I visited the guidance facility to better understand the research and archaeological survey carried out on the site. For those who are interested to know more about the history of Sendai Castle, there is a museum (Aoba Castle Museum) situated further inside the main compound.



With that, I concluded my half day heritage expedition of Sendai city!

Do you know? In 2013, nanoblock introduced a scaled down model depicting the statue of Date Masamune on horseback, which comes under its “Sights to see” series. Bought one after I came back to Singapore as a momento for this solo trip and I have to admit this was one of the most challenging nanoblock that I have pieced together to date! 

http://www.diablock.co.jp/nanoblock/en/catalog/c_cat3/nbh_045

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Site of Sendai Castle 仙台城跡
http://www.sendaimiyagidc.jp/sight_pps/d_tourist.php?id=0000000889

Sendai Castle Guidance Facility 仙台城見聞館
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Free admission

Aoba Castle Museum 青葉城資料展示館
Operating hours:
Apr - Nov: 0900 - 1700 hrs (last entry at 1630 hrs)
Nov - Mar: 0900 - 1600 hrs (last entry at 1530 hrs)
Admission fee = 700 yen
https://honmarukaikan.com/tenji/



How to get there?

(1) By Loople Sendai bus るーぷる仙台バス.
Board the Loople Sendai bus from Bus stop / Platform 16 at Sendai JR Station West Exit Bus Terminal and alight at Site of Sendai Castle 仙台城跡. Bus ride takes approx 20 minutes.

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Commemorative stamp: