Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉, Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝

Visited 12.10.2015 (Mon)

On this trip to Tohoku region, we visited two hot spring spots in Yamagata Prefecture - Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉 and Akayu Onsen 赤湯温泉. Located in Obanazawa city 尾花沢市, Ginzan Onsen is a humble hot spring town secluded in a mountainous area and is well known for its retro, wooden buildings, constructed from late Taisho period to early Showa period, that lined along the banks of Ginzangawa (Ginzan River 銀山川).



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Highlights:

History. As the name suggests (Ginzan translates to silver mountain), silver mining began in this area about 550 years ago (in 1456). Subsequently, the discovery of hot spring source by the miners led to the establishment of ryokan and engagement of small businesses in the area. Unfortunately, a huge flood which broke out in 1913 (Taisho 2) destroyed most of the ryokan, coupled with a significant reduction of hot spring water, affected livelihood in this town. In the beginning of Showa period (1926), the quantity of hot spring water derived from the source recovered and this became the catalyst to the rejuvenation of Ginzan Onsen. Ryokan, comprised of three to four storey tall wooden buildings, were rebuilt alongside Ginzangawa while other amenities such as bridges and walkways were also constructed. As part of conservation efforts, most of the wooden buildings are carefully preserved/maintained in their original state and the ryokan here continue to serve its customers faithfully till today. Improved accessibility, including the opening of Yamagata Shinkansen (Oishida Station 大石田駅 being the nearest train station), brought along an influx of visitors to Ginzan Onsen, elevating it into an iconic attraction exclusive to Yamagata Prefecture.

Nostalgia. There are many things I like about Ginzan Onsen. Located in a highland, the town is safely tucked away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The main hot spring street is compact and easy to navigate. The pedestrians-dedicated walkways which run alongside Ginzangawa is perfect for a leisure stroll anytime of the day. The sense of nostalgia grows at night when the western style street lamps and charming traditional houses are gradually lit up, transforming the town into a picturesque scenery which is completely different from its daytime outlook. I enjoyed walking to and fro the main street (between Shirogane Bridge 白銀橋 and Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝), listening to the therapeutic sound of flowing water in Ginzagawa, admiring the architectural details of Taisho era buildings and the craftsmanship on Kote-e 鏝絵, the colourful pictures carved on plaster walls, featured on some of the buildings and lastly, rewarding my legs with a soak at the public footbath.







Trails. The sound of gushing water grew louder as we ventured into the back of the hot spring town. The source actually came from a 22 m tall waterfall, named Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝, which is part of Ginzangawa. Due to time constraint and unfavourable weather, we did not get to visit Shirogane Koen 白銀公園, located upstream of Shirogane no taki. Within the park, there are trails leading to remains of silver mines, which the lives of locals depended on centuries ago.

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Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉,  Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝
http://www.ginzanonsen.jp/index.html

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
- From Oishida JR Station 大石田駅, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes approx 40 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base.html
- From Yamagata Airport 山形空港, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. There are only two round trips per day and bus journey takes approx 1.5 hr.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base3.html

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Ginzan Onsen Notoya 銀山温泉 能登屋

Stayed 12.10.2015 (Mon)
Reserved thru’ ryokan’s website.

3 pax / room inclusive of half board = 51,840 yen + 450 yen (Bathing tax = 150 yen/pax)

Fulfilled. Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉 is a popular hot spring town located in Obanzawa city 尾花沢市 in Yamagata Prefecture, well known for its well preserved wooden buildings which housed ryokan and shops. In addition to that, fans of the popular asadora 朝ドラ (morning drama), Oshin おしん, will be able to relate to Ginzan Onsen very well as this was the place where Oshin’s mother had to leave home for to work as a waitress in one of the ryokans. Being a fan of the drama myself, it was a dream come true for me to be able to visit Ginzan Onsen and even stay at Notoya 能登屋, the ryokan which was featured as her mother’s workplace in the drama, at the same time.

Knowing the immense popularity of Ginzan Onsen as well as Notoya, I began my accommodation reservation way in advance than usual and was able to secure a room at Notoya successfully. Opted for the ryokan's complimentary pick up service from Oishida JR Station 大石田駅 as well. 

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Highlights



Introduction. The four storey wooden building which the ryokan is housed in was constructed in 1921 and is strategically situated just beside Ginzangawa 銀山川, the main river that runs through the hot spring town. Guests occupying rooms facing the river are greeted with a picturesque scenery of the hot spring town, especially during evening time when the entire street gradually lights up. Right in front of Notoya, there is a bridge, with vermilion coloured railings, that crosses to the other side of the river. Was surprised to find a smaller version yet complementing vermilion coloured bridge on the first floor of the ryokan which connects the lobby to the elevator waiting area.





Rooms. There are a total of 15 guestrooms in Notoya. We were assigned a room named Kangetsu 観月 located on the second floor of the two storey annex building of the ryokan. The annex block is much newer in comparison and is located just behind the main building (therefore no street view could be enjoyed from the rooms in the annex block). The ground floor of the annex building is linked by a passageway to the fourth floor of the main building. Kangetsu is a traditional Japanese style room laid with tatami mats and we slept on futons prepared by the staffs after dinner. Though there is a bathroom attached to the room, we utilised the communal bathhouse with hot spring pools located on the first floor of the annex building (and that is usually the case when we stay in an accommodation equipped with hot spring facilities).


Meals. Dinner was kaiseki style and was served in our room. On the other hand, breakfast was served in the main dining hall (Ohiroma 大広間) located on the first floor of the annex block. Dinner was sumptuous and satisfying; one noteworthy point is that these dishes were created using ingredients sourced within the local region, such as Obanazawa beef and tsuyahime rice. Breakfast was Japanese style and equally amazing too. Grilled fish, tofu and an array of side dishes were served. All of us loved the daikon rice in particular - so delicious that I had to ask for additional helping of rice which I seldom do.







Dinner menu
Drink before meal / Shokumae sake 食前酒: Yamabudo wine 山ぶどう酒
Appetiser / Sakitsuku 先付け:
- Matsutake mushroom in chrysanthemum dressing 松茸重陽和え
- Fry simmering manchurian wild rice (makomodake) まこも茸揚げ煮
- Stir fry chocolate vine with miso あけび味噌炒め
Sashimi / Otsukuri お造り: Carp chilled in iced water 鯉洗い, salmon サーモン and greater amberjack 勘八
Oshinogi 御凌ぎ: Nameko (mushroom) soba なめこそば
Boiled dish / Nimono 煮物: Sweetened boiled carp 鯉の甘露煮
Small pot / Konabe 小鍋: Obanazawa beef cooked on hot plate 尾花沢牛陶板焼き
Grilled dish / Yakimono 焼物: Ayu (sweetfish) grilled with salt 子持ち鮎塩焼き
Steamed dish / Mushimono 蒸し物: Steamed unagi with sweet potato puree うなぎ養老蒸し
Vinegared dish / Sumono 酢物: Takikawa tofu 滝川豆腐
Rice / Gohan 御飯: Yamagata produced tsuyahime rice 山形県産つや姫, served with tsukemono
Dessert / Mizumono 水物: La France, shine muscat and pumpkin pudding ラフラス、シャインマツカット、カボチャプリン









Hot spring with a view. The communal bathhouses were separated by gender, each with both indoor and outdoor pools. The hot spring water contains sodium and sulfate salts, and is said to be beneficial in treating ailments such as neuralgia, rheumatism, wound pain, gynecological disorders and skin problems. In addition to the conventional ones, Notoya also offers two special hot spring facilities which require prior reservation to be made. One of them is actually located in a cave (accessed from the ground floor of the main building) which has been in existence since the ryokan started its operation a century ago! We utilised the other one which is found in a small hut and is remotely located in the woods, a short distance away from the ryokan. Was informed by the staff that we could enjoy this particular one without additional fee, therefore I placed a reservation to utilise it in the morning on the following day. From the second floor of the annex block, we climbed 85 steps to reach this secluded hot spring spot and were able to capture quite a good view of the town from here. My parents and I took turns to enjoy a moment of luxury, soaking in the warm, therapeutic waters here privately while surrounded by nature. Though it is a pity that we did not get to stay in a room located in the main building, Notoya was still excellent in various aspects and I will highly recommend a stay here.









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Notoya 能登屋
山形県尾花沢市大字銀山新畑446
Check in: 1400 hrs
Check out: 1030 hrs
http://www.notoyaryokan.com/

How to get there?

(1) By complimentary pick up service from Oishida JR Station 大石田駅. Prior reservation is required, so do indicate your intent to utilise the pick up service during point of reservation.

(2) By bus.
- From Oishida JR Station 大石田駅, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes approx 40 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base.html
- From Yamagata Airport 山形空港, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. There are only two round trips per day and bus journey takes approx 1.5 hr.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base3.html

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Yamadera 山寺, Hojusan Risshakuji 宝珠山立石寺

Visited 12.10.2015 (Mon)

Achievement unlocked. From Yamagata Station 山形駅, we took a train and alighted at Yamadera Station 山寺駅. Upon alighting the train, my jaws dropped when I came face to face with the mountain which we were supposed to climb to get to the temple. This height is definitely not for the faint-hearted I thought and I had to give my parents a small "pep" talk, checking with them whether they were ok to do the climb and they should do it at their own comfortable pace, taking breaks whenever required. Evenutally, we managed to achieve a new milestone at Yamadera by climbing the most number of stairs in a day - a total of 1,015 stone steps from the base of the mountain to where Okuno-in 奥之院 and Daibutsuden 大仏殿 are located at.

So high up! This was the view which greeted us upon stepping out of Yamadera JR Station.

Background. Yamadera means “mountain temple”. The mountain refers to Hojusan 宝珠山 and the official name of the temple situated here is Risshakuji 立石寺. Established by Jikaku daishi 慈覚大師 in 860, it is said that people visit this sacred temple hoping to shake off evil connection / destiny from them. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉, a famous 17th century Japanese poet, composed a famous haiku (very short form of Japanese poetry) describing the atmosphere here when he dropped by Risshakuji. This haiku which is found in his travel literature named titled Okunohozomichi 奥の細道, reads as follows - 閑かさや 岩にしみ入る 蝉の声 which means "such stillness, the cries of cidada, sinking into the rocks".

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Konpon Chudo, a hall constructed from buna and designated as a National Important Cultural Property.

Highlights

Foot of mountain. There are several prominent landmarks that climbers will pass by during the ascend. The first landmark that we approached was Konpon Chudo 根本中堂, a hall constructed from buna and designated as a National Important Cultural Property. Here, an eternal flame from Hieizan's (Hiei mountain 比叡山) Enryaku-ji 延暦寺 (located in Kyoto) is brought over to here and Yakushi nyorai 薬師如来 (known as the Buddha of healing and medicine) is being worshipped in this hall.

Sanmon, the gate where admission fee was collected.

Start of climb. Admission fee was collected at Sanmon 山門, a thatched roof wooden gate constructed during Kamakura period (1185 - 1333). The real challenge commenced soon after passing through this gate. What lie ahead of us seemed to be an endless flight of stairs winding through a cedar tree forest based on a steep terrain. Fortunately, the cooling weather made the entire climbing experience seemed less tough. Along the way, we stopped by every now and then (at empty spots where we were not blocking the human traffic) to admire the tall cedar trees, massive cliffs and stone monuments.

Niomon.

Look back! The next landmark after the half way mark is Niomon 仁王門, a gate rebuilt in 1848 and more temples emerged after passing through this gate. From this stage onward, the altitude gained is high enough to obtain a broader overview of the mountainous surroundings. Therefore, do slow down, find a right spot and turn back to admire the scenery. Enjoyed the bonus of admiring the scenery decorated by beautiful autumn foliage when I visited the place in October.

After scaling 1,000 stone steps, we arrived at Okuno-in (right) and Daibutsuden (left).

Look out for this marker, which indicates that you have climbed 1,000 steps to reach here.

Finally, we arrived at our pit stop - Okuno-in 奥之院 and Daibutsuden 大仏殿. Near Okuno-in, there is a signage informing visitors that they have accomplished 1,000 steps from the starting point to arrive here. Okuno-in, the building on the right, is where Gautama Buddha (Shaka nyorai 釈迦如来) and Prabhutaratna Buddha (Taho nyorai 多宝如来) are worshipped. The adjacent building, Daibutsuden, is where a 5 m tall, golden statue of Amitabha Buddha (Amita nyorai 阿弥陀如来) is enshrined in. 

Kaisando on the right and Nokyodo on the left.

Scenic. Next we made our way to Godaido 五大堂, known to be one of the best viewing spot in Yamadera. Along the way, we passed by Kaisando 開山堂 and Nokyodo 納経堂. Kaisando is dedicated to Jikaku daishi 慈覚大師, the founder of Risshakuji and it is said that his body was placed in a gold coffin and buried in a cave beneath the cliff where Kaisando is located at. Nokyodo is a small red hall located beside Kaisando, which is used to store hand copied sutra and is the oldest building on this mountain. When we turned back to look at the overall mountainous landscape, we were amazed by the sight of various temples and landmarks built at random locations on the steep mountain slope and the scenery left us very impressed, considering these structures were constructed centuries ago. 

Best view. When we looked out from the extended platform of Godaido, the breathtaking scenery took us by surprise and we were at a loss for words for quite some time. Rebuilt in 1714, this hall which is dedicated to the five great wisdom kings, is the truly the best observatory spot to capture a spectacular view of the town, nestled in a countryside landscape, and its surrounding mountainous range. Despite being hit by soreness in our leg muscles during the descend (eventually), we are agreed that the experience gained was priceless and the climb was extremely worthwhile and rewarding. 

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Yamadera 山寺, Hojusan Risshakuji 宝珠山立石寺
〒999-3301 山形県山形市山寺4456-1
Admission fee = 300 yen
https://www.rissyakuji.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Takes 6 mins to walk from Yamadera JR Station 山寺駅 to the starting point of the climb.

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Admission tickets: