Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Totoya ととや

Visited 17.11.2014

Change of plan. Wanted to head down to Hirome Market to try one of Kochi's specialties - Katsuo no tataki (鰹のタタキ) on our first night in Kochi. Plan was shelved after speaking to the owner of Terzo Tempo cafe earlier in the day. He handed me a map and recommended several shops/restaurants to visit in the nearby area. Decided to postpone the visit to Hirome Market on the last night and settle our dinner in Totoya, a restaurant located a few minutes walk away from 7 Days Hotel.

Natural dining. Motto of Totoya is to utilize natural ingredients in their cooking ("自然食材の店" as printed in their business card). In fact, owner approaches farmers and fishermen directly to stock up vegetables and fishes harvested from the land and sea. Cooking style is French inspired to bring out the natural goodness of every ingredient in each dish. The dining area is pretty small and could only occupy at most 15 people. There was only the chef and his assistant (who was also the waitress). As no other diners appeared in the restaurant on our day of visit, we foresee food may not be as good as what the owner of Terzo Tempo has acclaimed to be. Kept our fingers crossed...

Menu was hand written (in Japanese) with no prices mentioned. Was worried that I may end up overspending, therefore requested the waitress to recommend the signature dishes and clarified with her the prices along the way. Eventually, we decided on vanilla grilled red legged prawns and Provence style fried Shimanto chicken. Added one other dish which was recommended by the chef - fried sea bream (freshly caught in the day) accompanied with tasty rice. The delectable flavours of the food caught us by surprise and the food was good that we had to order an additional dish before ending today's dinner - Shimanto pork ragu pasta. Glad to discover another gem in Kochi after Terzo Tempo cafe. This is definitely one restaurant I would recommend and return to if I get to visit Kochi again.

Top left: Fried Shimanto chicken; Top right: Grilled prawns; Bottom left: Appetisers; Bottom center: Fried fish with rice; Bottom right: Pasta with Shimanto pork sauce

• Vanilla grilled red legged prawns: Prawns were not deshelled but halved. Despite that, the prawns were not over-cooked. Sweetness in the meat was locked in and a tint of fresh vanilla flavour can be felt as you bite into the meat. 
• Provence style fried Shimanto chicken: I have to exclaim that this is one of juiciest chicken meat I have ever eaten. Chicken was cut into bite-sized, lightly floured and crispy fried. Served together with fragrant fried garlic, diced tomatoes and parsley, all of us agreed that this tori karaage came up top among the rest.  
• Fried sea bream with rice: Fresh fish fillet was thinly coated with flour and fried to golden brown, accompanied with a lightly seasoned rice. In the midst of cooking our food, the chef came out from his kitchen to pass us a plate of fried fish head and said it was on the house! Fish lovers (like my parents) will like this dish very much.
• Shimanto pork ragu pasta. Pasta was cooked to al dente served with a lightly seasoned meat sauce and broiled greens. Taste felt more home cooked than mind blowing.

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Totoya ととや 
〒780-0822 高知県高知市はりまや町2丁目4−14
Opening hrs: 1730 - 2400 hrs
Closed on Wednesdays.
Less than 3 mins walk away from Hasuikemachidori Station 蓮池町通駅.

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Makino Botanical Garden 牧野植物園

Visited 17.11.2014

In memory of Dr Tomitaro Makino. [Extract from "The Kochi Prefectural Makino Botanical Garden" brochure] Born in Sakawa, a rural village in the west of Kochi city, on 24 April 1862, Dr Tomitaro Makino (牧野富太郎 博士) devoted his lifetime to botany. He left behind a legacy in the field of botanic research - collected some 40,000 botanical specimens and named over 1,500 new species and sub species of plants during his life. In 1940, after his term as a lecturer at Tokyo University, he published his Illustrated Flora of Japan (牧野日本植物図鑑), a reference work which remains indispensable to professional botanists and enthusiasts today. After his demise in 1957, Makino Botanical Garden was opened to public on April 1958 to honour his phenomenal achievements.  

Statue of Dr Makino.

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Highlights

The botanical garden is way much bigger than I thought.

There are two gates to Makino Botanical Garden - visitors coming from Chikurin-ji will enter the garden via South Gate instead of Main Gate. The entire compound is divided into North and South Garden and made up of smaller parks/gardens with various themes such as Serpentine Park, Limestone Park, 50th Anniversary Garden, Canna and Rose Garden, Cherry and Azalea Garden and Garden of Medicinal Plants. The existing terrain is beautifully landscaped with water features and it felt very calming to stroll along the multiple pathways leading to different parts of the garden. Was expecting to see some autumn foliage here but most of the trees were already on the verge of becoming barren during my visit. Fortunately, I chanced upon the chrysanthemum festival here (normally held in Japan between October and November) and huge displays created using various kinds of chrysanthemum flowers, were put up for exhibition in the garden. There are cherry blossom trees scattered throughout the garden, making this a great place to visit during the flower blooming season from late March to April.

The conservatory with tropical plants.

A 17 m tall conservatory, renovated in 2010, stands right in front of you upon entrance via South Gate. In the conservatory, temperature is being regulated to create an environment similar to tropics. The entire place breeds familiarity since I grew up in a tropical country. The conservatory is filled with lush greenery, decorated with flowers - spotted numerous species of orchids being cultivated here. A visit to Makino Museum, located in the North Garden, is necessary in order to better understand Makino's devotion to botany throughout his lifetime. Visitors can see an interesting construction of his workplace here - a realistic wax figure of Makino hard at work, surrounded by huge piles of reference materials. The buildings here are also aesthetically appealing. Designed by local renowned architect Hiroshi Naito (内藤 廣), a shear amount of timber was utilised to create buildings that harmonised with the natural surroundings. As Makino Botanical Garden is strategically located on a hill (Godaisan), a scenic view of Kochi city can be admired at various spots in the garden too!

A glimpse of Kochi city.

Do allocate at least 2 hours of time in order to fully soak into the serenity of the garden at a leisure pace. There is also a restaurant/cafe (Arbre), housed within Makino Museum, for visitors to take a break and enjoy western cuisine created using local ingredients.

Bari-san for Imabari city of Ehime Prefecture.

Udon-no of Kagawa Prefecture, the region in Japan where Sanuki Udon originated from!

Sudachi-kun from Tokushima Prefecture. Sudachi is a green citrus fruit specialty of prefecture.

Shinjo-kun, from Susaki city of Kochi Prefecture. In fact, I just got to know that this adorable otter wearing a nabeyaki ramen hat (a specialty of Susaki city) came in first in Yura Kyara Grand Prix 2016 (a popularity contest for mascot held in Japan annually)! 

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Makino Botanical Garden 牧野植物園
〒781-8125 高知県高知市五台山4200-6
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Closed from 27 Dec to 1 Jan.
Admission fee = 720 yen
http://www.makino.or.jp/

How to get there? 
(1) MY Yu Bus (MY遊バス). At Kochi JR Station, board MY Yu Bus heading for Katsurahama and alight at Makino Botantical Garden (牧野植物園).
Kochi JR Station <> Katsurahama: 1 Day Pass = 1,000 yen
Kochi JR Station <> Chikurin-ji: Godaisan 1 Day Pass = 600 yen
MY Yu Bus: https://www.attaka.or.jp/kanko/kotsu_mybus.php

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Shikoku Pilgrimage 四国遍路: Chikurinji 竹林寺; Kongofukuji 金剛福寺

Visited Chikurinji (竹林寺) on 17.11.2014
Visited Kongofukuji (金剛福寺) on 19.11.2014

Shikoku Pilgrimage. In Shikoku, you will notice pedestrians donned in white, wearing conical strawed hats and carrying a walking stick, occasionally. They are all on a pilgrimage unique to Shikoku, tracing the footsteps of a Japanese monk named Ku kai (空海), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, to cover 88 temples on the island of Shikoku. The entire trail is about 1,100 km long and requires time, physical fitness and strong mental determination to accomplish the pilgrimage simply by foot. The reason behind in this pilgrimage may not be driven by religious reasons only; some want to explore Shikoku in an unconventional way, purely by walking. 16 out of 88 temples are located in Kochi Prefecture, the largest yet least populated prefecture in Shikoku. For my trip to Shikoku, I paid a visit to two of them - Chikurinji in Kochi city and Kongofukuji in Tosashimizu city.

Main hall.

Spotted someone going on the pilgrimage.

Five storey pagoda of Chikurinji.

Surrounded by autumn foliage.

Pretty omikuji (おみくじ), otherwise known as fortune telling paper strips. 

Temple #31: Chikurinji 竹林寺 
Chikurinji was built on Godaisan (五台山) in 724, way earlier than Kongofukuji. This temple was actually modeled after another temple located on China's Mt Wutai (same kanji as Godaisan). Monju Bosatsu (文殊菩薩), which is also known as the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, is being worshipped in the main hall, or Hondo. What caught my eye immediately was this beautiful five storey pagoda (五重塔) which stands at 31.2 m tall and made out of cypress wood. It was autumn period during our time of visit; the pagoda stood out even more brilliantly among the autumn foliage. One other feature of Chikurinji is its landscaped Japanese garden which was given the title of scenic site of Japan in 2004.  Sadly, I only got to know that there is such garden within its premises after browsing through its website. From photos uploaded online, the garden does look pretty stunning and worth a visit.

Temple #38: Kongofukuji 金剛福寺
Kongofukuji is located in Ashizurimisaki, the southernmost tip of the island of Shikoku. Kannon is being worshipped in this temple which has been around since Heian period (794 - 1185). There is a stone statue of a turtle named Daishikame (大師亀) located at the front of the temple. Apart from the normal rituals, one other practice unique to here is to touch the head of Daishikame and say your wishes at the same time.

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Chikurinji 竹林寺 （第31番札所）
〒781-8125 高知県高知市五台山3577
Operating hours: 0800 - 1700 hrs
http://www.chikurinji.com/
http://www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/31chikurinji/

How to get there? 

(1) MY Yu Bus (MY遊バス).
At Kochi JR Station, board MY Yu Bus heading for Katsurahama and alight at Chikurinji (竹林寺).
Kochi JR Station <> Katsurahama: 1 Day Pass = 1,000 yen
Kochi JR Station <> Chikurin-ji: Godaisan 1 Day Pass = 600 yen
MY Yu Bus: https://www.attaka.or.jp/kanko/kotsu_mybus.php



Kongofukuji 金剛福寺（第38番札所）
〒787-0315 高知県土佐清水市足摺岬214-1
Operating hours: 0700 - 1700 hrs
http://www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/38kongofukuji/index.html

How to get there?

(1) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Ashizurimisaki, and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes 1 hr 40 mins and cost 1,900 yen.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Terzo Tempo Cafe テルツォ・テンポ

Visited 17.11.2014

Exterior of Terzo Tempo. 

Atmosphere. Found out that Terzo Tempo means "3rd time" in Italian. Despite a Italian name, this humble cafe has no European flair. From the look of its exterior, I would never have figure out this isolated two storey wooden shop house is a cafe. No eye catching signboard nor attention seeking outdoor decor - some may even find it shabby from the outside. Upon entering the cafe, a sense of tranquility hits you immediately. No fanciful interior design but comfortable, natural colours to welcome its customers. Natural ventilation and lighting came from the entrance into its small dining area. Furnishing are mostly recycled - one big wooden table, a few side tables, benches, an old sewing machine stand used to display potted plants, nostalgic looking analogue wall clock - time seemed to have come to a still in this small space.


Food, drinks & music. Mr Sano is an advocate of art and music; he lends out space to promote works of local artists and sells tickets to indie musical concerts held in the local community. In Terzo Tempo, one can relax to the soothing music played in the background while enjoying a cup of coffee and let time passes slowly. This ambience is in line with the name of this cafe - doing something for a "third time" is a luxury. Ordered the only lunch dish found on their menu - it was chicken curry rice on the day of our visit. Do be patient since the food is only prepared upon order. I must say the wait was worthwhile as this simple plate of chicken curry rice was very delicious - gravy has the right amount of spiciness, accompanied with brown rice and fresh greens. Cafe serves other light snacks such as croque monsieur クロックムッシュ (ham and cheese sandwich) and English muffin. There is a good variety of drinks to choose from, such as coffee, tea, beer, juices, etc. Had the royal milk tea and it was as good as it can get.

Delicious curry chicken rice. 

Remember. One other deep impression I had of this down to earth cafe was the warm hospitality extended by the owners. Since there was no English menu available, I struggled to decipher the Japanese characters. The lady at the counter was eager to help me out on the menu, using a mixture of Japanese and simple English. Later on, the lady went back to the kitchen to prepare the food, while a man appeared at the counter to make us our drinks. Found out from Milly's travelogue (四國，海島漫遊) that he is the owner of the cafe - Mr Sano. He migrated from Tokyo to Kochi to manage this cafe several years ago. Managed to strike a short conversation with him while he was working, with my broken Japanese & hand gestures, as I inquired about the places that I should visit in Kochi. Without further ado, he searched through a stack of brochures stuffed in the file folder and came back with a map of the nearby area. He patiently went through with me his recommendations - a list of restaurants, cafes, bakery, shops and an organic market (held every Saturday) that were worth visiting. Was touched by the friendly and sincere gesture from him and his wife - they are among many strangers whom we met and made this trip in Shikoku a very memorable one!     

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Terzo Tempo テルツォ・テンポ 
〒780-0821 高知県高知市桜井町2-5-30
Opening hrs: 1100 - 1900 hrs
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
http://terzotempo.jugem.jp/?pid=1
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kochi.terzotempo/

- About 10 mins walk from 7 Days Hotel.
- From Kochi JR Station, take Tosaden Electric Tram and alight at Hasuike-machi-dori (蓮池町通) stop. About 15 mins walk from this tram stop. 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - 7 Days Hotel Plus セブンデイズホテルプラス

Stayed 17.11.2014
Reserved thru' Booking.com
- Twin Room = 11,400 yen
- Single Room = 6,300 yen

Left: Common area on the ground level.

Hotels are quite scattered in Kochi city. To my surprise, I did not managed to find many established hotel chains near the train station (only Super Hotel & Comfort Hotel and both about 5 mins walk away) and so far, Kochi is the only prefecture (out of 47 prefectures in Japan) that has no Toyoko Inn! Chose to stay in 7 Days Hotel Plus and 7 Days Hotel on two separate days in Kochi city. The surroundings of the hotel is pretty quaint, a distance away from the main road.

Minimalist and modern hotel. Similar to many other business hotels that I have stayed in, all the basic amenities here are well taken care of in 7 Days Hotel Plus. However, one other feature that I like a lot about this hotel is its minimalist design. Single room are of typical size of 12 m2, but simplicity in furnishing makes the room looked spacious and comfortable. Similar concept is extended to its lobby. Found this common area which is enclosed by walls of cement slabs, with paintings of bright, contrasting colours hung up and several aluminium round tables and chairs arranged, particularly stylish. Do keep a close look out for some of the beautifully design furniture, modern table wares and abstract paintings at various corners of the hotel. In conclusion, this is definitely one hotel that I will come back to stay if I get to visit Kochi again.

Breakfast. In 7 Days Hotel Plus, you will get to choose between Western and Japanese style for breakfast. For Western style breakfast, help yourself to a variety of freshly baked bread, salad, banana, boiled eggs, coffee/tea and juices. On the other hand, the Japanese breakfast set comes with rice, salted salmon, half boiled egg and miso soup.

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7 Days Hotel Plus セブンデイズホテルプラス
高知県高知市はりまや町2-13-6 〒780-0822
https://7dayshotel.com/7plus.html

From Kochi JR Station, take Tosaden Electric Tram and alight at Hasuike-machi-dori (蓮池町通) stop. About 5 - 7 mins walk from this tram stop. 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Kochi JR Station 高知駅, TosadenStreetcar どさでん電車, MY Yu Bus MY遊バス

Kochi JR Station (D45/K00) on the Dosan line.

This train station is the gateway to Kochi-shi (Kochi city), the capital city of Kochi Prefecture. However, the surrounding area of the train station is actually quieter than expected, with no connecting hotels and major departmental stores nearby. To experience the busiest and liveliest district of Kochi city, one will need to take the streetcar to Harimaya bashi, which is three stops away from the main train station.

Bottom left: A picture of Sakamoto Ryoma and his wife; Top left: A miniature replica of Harimaya bashi; Bottom right: Statues of three prominent figures, Sakamoto Ryoma, Takechi Hanpeita and Nakaoka Shintaro, who contributed greatly to modernization of Japan.

Some limited express trains that serve Kochi JR Station:
(1) Limited Express Shimanto, which commutes between Takamatsu and Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.
(2) Limited Express Nanpu, which commutes between Okayama, Kochi and Nakamura.
(3) Limited Express Ashizuri, which commutes between Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.

What's nearby?

(1) Kochira Tabi Hiroba (こちら旅広場), a tourist information center located on the right upon exit from the South exit of train station.
This is one of the first places I visited after arrival - to collect brochures of the attractions which I planned to visit in Kochi and to check on the timing of buses departing for Ryoma Kochi Airport which I would take on the last day of the trip. There are shops housed within the same facility selling locally produced goods and souvenirs.

Who is Sakamoto Ryoma? Here in Kochi, you will spot numerous monochrome pictures, statues, caricatures and even souvenirs depicting a Japanese legendary figure. He is Sakamoto Ryoma (坂本龍馬). Born in Kochi in 1836, he made great contributions to the rapid modernisation of Japan which marked the end of 700 years of feudal government. The best way to find out how he shaped the future of Japan is to check out several museums located in Kochi Prefecture. In 2010, NHK created a drama serial, titled Ryomaden (龍馬伝), which portrayed the life of Sakamoto Ryoma. This drama was well-received both locally and internationally, and its popularity has even led to an enclosure being set up (located beside Kochira Tabi Hiroba) to exhibit props and sets which appeared in the drama serial. 

Website: https://www.attaka.or.jp/tabihiroba/

My Yu Bus boarding area located behind Kochira Tabi Hiroba. 

(2) MY Yu Bus (MY遊バス), bus stop located behind Kochira Tabi Hiroba.
This is a very useful bus service covering attractions in secluded locations further from city center such as Makino Botanical Garden (牧野植物園), Chikuriji (竹林寺) and southwards to Katsurahama (桂浜).

My Yu Bus Godaisan 1 day pass.

A one day and two day pass, covering the entire route between Kochi JR Station and Katsurahama, cost 1,000 yen and 1,600 yen respectively. Purchased the Godaisan (五台山) 1 day pass, priced at 600 yen, as we only utilised the bus service between Kochi JR Station and Godaisan to visit Makino Botanical Garden and Chikuriji. For foreign visitors, a 50% discount is given when your passport is shown during the purchase of tickets. Tickets can be purchased at Kochira Tabi Hiroba, Kochi Bus Terminal or from the driver when you board the bus.

* Please note that the bus boarding bay is not at Kochi Bus Terminal (located at the North exit of train station), but just behind Kochira Tabi Hiroba.
Website: https://www.attaka.or.jp/kanko/kotsu_mybus.php

Bought an Anpanman bread from Willie Winkie bakery!

(3) Anpanman Terrace & Willie Winkie, located on the first level of train station.

- Anpanman Terrace (アンパンマンテラス) has a wide range of Anpanman related merchandises for patrons to choose from; such as storybooks, toys, stationery and exclusive Anpanman train models. Bought a small Anpanman drawstring bag from here.  

- Willie Winkie (ウィリーウィンキー) is a bakery owned by JR Shikoku and the branches are located within the train stations. What makes this bakery stands out is their adorable and delicious looking Anpanman characters bread. Spotted them while I was visiting the bakery and could not resist buying some to try. Five characters from this popular anime were transformed into real edible bread here: Anpanman, Creampanda, Omusubiman, Shokupanman and Currypanman.

Tosaden streetcar

(4) Tosaden / Tosa Electric Railway streetcar (どさでん電車)
One of the most convenient way to get around the city is by Tosaden streetcar. Kochi ekimae (高知駅前) is the terminus streetcar station located just in front of the South exit of train station. For foreign visitors holding on All Shikoku Rail Pass, be rest assured that you will not need to top up additional fares to ride the streetcar.

Harimaya bashi

Attractions accessible via streetcar:
- Harimaya bashi (はりまや橋): board any streetcar from Kochi ekimae and alight at Harimaya bashi はりまや橋
- Hirome Market (ひろめ市場): board the streetcar heading for Kagamigawa bashi 鏡川橋/Asakura 朝倉/Ino 伊野 and alight at Ohashi dori 大橋通
- Kochi Castle (高知城): board the streetcar heading for Kagamigawa bashi 鏡川橋/Asakura 朝倉/Ino 伊野 and alight at Kochi jo mae 高知城前
Map: http://www.tosaden.co.jp/train/rosenzu.php

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Commemorative stamp: 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Day 5 Kochi 高知

Day 5: 17.11.2014
* Day 2 of 5 days All Shikoku Rail Pass 

Chikurinji

Breakfast: Agnes Hotel Tokushima アグネスホテル徳島

Tokushima JR 徳島駅 (0903 hrs) > Awa Ikeda JR 阿波池田駅 (1014 hrs)
by Ltd Express Tsurugisan 3.

Awa Ikeda JR 阿波池田駅 (1020 hrs) > Kochi JR 高知駅 (1130 hrs)
by Ltd Express Nanpu 3.

Kochi ekimae 高知駅前 > Hasuike machi dori 蓮池町通
by Tosaden streetcar, via Sanbashi line.

Check in: 7 Days Hotel Plus セブンデイズホテルプラス
http://www.7dayshotel.com/

Lunch: Terzo Tempo テルツォ テンポ

Visited Chikurinji 竹林寺.
Took taxi from Terzo Tempo to Chikurinji.

Visited Makino Botanical Garden 高知県立牧野植物園. [720 yen]
http://www.makino.or.jp/

Makino Botanical Garden 高知県立牧野植物園 (1631 hrs) > Harimaya bashi はりまや橋
by My Yu Bus MY遊バス [1 day Godaisan Pass = 600 yen]

Visited Harimaya bashi はりまや橋.

Dinner: Totoya ととや

- End of Day 5 -