Japan Autumn Nov 2017 一人で日本の旅 - Genmai Cafe Hibinokate 玄米カフェ日々の糧

Visited 18.11.2017 (Sat)

Tiring day. Day 13 was a wet day and I "fought" a battle against the strong wind and intermittent drizzling with my umbrella (which eventually was damaged) while travelling the entire day. Was drenched, hungry and tired by the time I returned to Yonago JR Station in the evening and immediately set off to search for an eatery to settle my dinner. Followed a recommendation in ことりっぶ co-Trip travel guidebook to Genmai Cafe Hibinokate 玄米カフェ日々の糧, located on the second floor of Hotel Sanada (ホテル真田) and within walking distance from the train station. Hibinokate is a humble restaurant offering vegan cuisine and one of the few to do so in San’in region.

Food for health. My encounter with vegetarian food back at home has mostly been stir fried beehoon accompanied with mock meat (my favourite has got to be the fried mock goose meat) and vegetable curry sold in hawker centers and food courts. I have to admit that my knowledge and exposure to vegetarian food in Singapore has been pretty limited. In Genmai Cafe Hibinokate, there are no meat, fish, eggs, dairy products and chemical preservatives used in their preparation of food. While reading the menu of Hibinokate, I was already attracted by the tantalising food photos which completely reformed my impression of vegetarian food. The lady owner, who spoke good English, knowing that it was my first time here recommended me to try their set meal. Food was prepared upon order and I was already drooling to the mouthwatering aroma generated from the cooking coming from the open concept kitchen. 

Home cooked food. I knew I was in for a treat when my dinner was served!  The set meal comprised of brown rice (or genmai) topped with mukago (yam tubercles which looked like tiny potatoes), salad with sweet potatoes mash, several side dishes of vegetables, main dish and miso soup. Undoubtedly, the highlight was the main dish. Mash daikon was mixed with glutinous rice flour and shaped into a patty. Next, it was pan-fried till light golden brown and eventually coated with a savoury sauce. I am not a fan of daikon radish (my tastebuds deciphered it as peculiar) but the seasoning and cooking method brought out the sweetness of daikon and I enjoyed it a lot. Vegetables used in Hibinokate are also freshly harvested from farms, which they collaborated with, every morning. The sense of assurance you get from eating food here, where meals are well thought out and prepared, nutritious and beneficial to health is the same as that derived from eating home cooked food.

Wonderful dessert. Dinner was so satisfying that I placed my order for dessert without further ado. The restaurant has a very homely and cosy ambience which made me want to dwell here a little bit longer. Ordered their satsuma yam (さつま芋) Mont Blanc, which is also eggless and does not contain any form of dairy product, and a cup of earl grey tea to go with it. It was equally delicious; the baked tart was crispy, filled with cream rich in yam and soy milk flavour! All the desserts served here are also handmade and the menu changes regularly. Patrons can always look forward to new creations added to their menu when visiting this vegetarian restaurant.

To conclude, this enjoyable meal I had at Genmai Cafe Hibinokate has convinced me that vegetarian food can be healthy and delectable at the same time. Like all cuisine, it requires excellent knowledge of the ingredients, how they can complement one another in various aspects and endless effort put in by the chef, through multiple trial and error, to perfect the taste.

Discovery. In Japan, normally tea/water is served to guests at restaurants. At Hibinokate, the tea served was very different from the ones I have come across previously. It tasted like green tea but it has an aromatic scent coupled with the fragrance of tea, and a refreshing aftertaste. Found out from the owner later that the soothing smell came from holy basil and tea used was organic Muso Bancha (無双番茶), cultivated from mature tea leaves and stem. Wanted to recreate this taste when I return home but I have yet to do so till now...

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Genmai Cafe Hibinokate 玄米カフェ日々の糧
〒683-0053 鳥取県米子市明治町197 ホテル真田２Ｆ
Opening hours: 1100 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 2030 hrs; closed on Sundays.
http://hibinokate.com/

How to get there?
About 5 minutes walk away from Yonago JR Station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Nagato Yumoto Onsen Gyokusenkaku 長門湯本温泉 玉仙閣

Stayed 26.04.2015 (Sun)
Reserved thru' Rurubu.
Three person per room with half board = 18,360 yen/pax + 450 yen (bathing tax/pax)

Onsen with a history. The origin of Nagato Yumoto Onsen dates all the way back to Muromachi period (1336 – 1573). It was discovered by the chief priest of Taineiji 大寧寺, who was told about the existent of a hot spring source in the surroundings by Sumiyoshidaimyojin 住吉大明神 while he was mediating. In fact, Nagato Yumoto Onsen has the longest history than any other hot spring areas in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The hot spring town is well secluded in a canyon where two rivers Otozuregawa 音信川 and Taineijigawa 大寧寺川 splits through the mountainous area, with hotels and ryokans established on the sides of the rivers. This place was definitely more remote and laidback than I thought; something that I learnt to appreciate a lot as a city dweller. In Nagato Yumoto Onsen, you can find high end, luxury hotel like Otani Sansou Bettei Otozure 大谷山荘 別邸音信 which cost close to 500 SGD per pax per night. Eventually decided to settle for Gyokusenkaku, a reasonably priced ryokan with has an interesting theme that arouse my curiosity.

View from our room.

Presence of Yang Guifei felt in various corners of the ryokan. 

Presence of Yang Guifei. Yes, you have not mistaken. I was referring to the legendary beauty of Tang Dynasty who is otherwise known as Yang Yuhuan 楊玉環. History documented that Yang Guifei was killed during An Lushan Rebellion, but little did I know that in Japan, an alternative ending existed. It was said that Yang Guifei did not die and managed to flee from China by boat. She eventually landed in the current Nagato city, where she stayed for the rest of her life. This legend appeared to be seemingly true because there is even a Yang Guifei Village 楊貴妃の里, a Chinese style garden with a monumental tomb built to commemorate her. Though not verified, this was still an interesting twist to the original story which I was familiar with. I have to admit that I initially thought Gyokusenkaku was a place that Yang Guifei stayed before. The only reason why Gyokusenkaku is associated with this legendary figure is because they constructed one of their hot spring pool to look like the bathtub which Yang Guifei had enjoyed in China. This lotus shaped hot spring pool is called Kihi-yu 貴妃湯, which bears the same name as the actual one residing in Huaqing Pool (華清池). You can call this a gimmick, but this is what makes Gyokusenkaku stands out from the rest of the accommodation available in this small hot spring town. Imagining yourself as Yang Guifei, while having a soak in Kihi-yu is quite a luxurious moment after all. 

A glimpse of Taishi-yu in Senraku-yu.

Royal bath. There are two communal bathhouses named Kasei-yu 華清湯 and Senraku-yu 仙楽湯 which are separated by gender and are swapped at night in order to allow guests to enjoyed both bathhouses during their stay here. Apart from Kihi-yu which is a replica of Yang Guifei's lotus shaped bathtub featured in Kasei-yu, Senraku-yu has a rectangular shaped, 90 cm depth pool named Taishi-yu (太子湯), which translates to Crown Prince's pool. The hot spring waters from Nagato Yumoto Onsen is weakly alkaline and transparent. As its alkalinity is said to be close to that of a toner, the water is said to have beautifying effects on the skin. The therapeutic waters has also been used to treat neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain and recovery from exhaustion historically. As we had walked quite a lot in the day visiting both Akiyoshidai and Akiyoshido, having a soak in the hot waters was definitely rewarding for us.

Room and facilities. In its premises, you can find numerous pictures, depicting the four beauties of the Tang Dynasty, placed along the corridor, or even identify Chinese style lanterns, dividers, backdrop and furniture in different parts of the ryokan. Despite the Chinese theme, the rooms are still very much the typical Japanese style, laid with tatami mats. There were a couple of massage tools and a set of T puzzle wooden blocks, which my parents and I cracked our brains to solve after dinner, made available in the room. There is a shop, located at the same floor as the front desk, where local specialties and souvenirs can be purchased from.

Choshu wagyu beef. Selected the half board package which came with grilled Choshu wagyu beef 長萩和牛 and abalone for dinner. Choshu wagyu beef is well known for its well distributed marbling in every slice of meat, and a pride of Nagato city. I found out an interesting trivia when researching about this premium local beef online. In Nagato city, there is a collaboration between the cow ranches and neighbouring farmers whereby the farmers provide the straw consumed by the cows and the ranch will give the compost to the farmers in return as fertilisers. This is an excellent example of organic waste recycling in agriculture.

The dinner course started with appetiser and sashimi platter which comprised of thinly sliced, almost transparent blowfish sashimi (河豚). This was my first time eating blowfish, which is a delicacy of Yamaguchi Prefecture. Frankly speaking I was not particularly amazed by its taste; subtle as compared to other types of fish I have eaten and slightly chewy in terms of texture. It tasted much better when I wrapped a slice of blowfish with scallions and dipped it in ponzu sauce.

Shortly after that, the staff placed a basket filled with fresh lobster, clams, prawns, mushrooms, corn on the cob and sliced eggplant. Next, a plate of thick, beautifully marbled Chosho wagyu beef and a small basket containing abalone, each with a scoop of butter put onto of it, were served. With all the ingredients ready, it was time to grill our food on the stove! The wagyu beef was truly the highlight of the entire meal; the fatty portion, which has a lower melting point than regular beef, disintegrated almost instantaneously in the mouth, releasing all the flavours contained in the meat. Love the buttery abalone as well. Overall, dinner was much more tiring than usual because we had to cook all the food ourselves and there were times when we accidentally overcooked/burnt some of them. If given the chance to choose again, I would prefer food directly prepared by the kitchen rather than DIY.

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Nagato Yumoto Onsen Gyokusenkaku 長門湯本温泉 玉仙閣
〒759-4103 山口県長門市深川湯本1234
Contact number: (+81)0837-25-3731
http://www.gyokusenkaku.com/

How to get there? 

(1) Complimentary pick up service from Nagato Yumoto JR Station 長門湯本駅
Gyokusenkaku provides complimentary shuttle service to/fro Nagato Yumoto JR Station. To utilise this service, you will need to inform the ryokan beforehand by phone call, on your expected arrival time at the train station. Do note that Nagato Yumoto JR Station is an unmanned train station in a rather secluded town, so taxi may be scarce. For my trip, I engaged the help of a hotel staff to make the transport arrangement on the day before my stay.

(2) By foot, takes about 10 minutes from Nagato Yumoto JR Station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵

Stayed 25.04.2015 (Sat)
Reserved thru' Jalan.net.
Room 206 Kirinso 麒麟草; three person with half board = 34,560 yen/pax

Most luxurious. Being one of the most popular hot spring town in Yamaguchi Prefecture, there were numerous accommodation options to choose from here in Yuda Onsen. Had in mind to avoid more touristy or commercialised hotels/ryokans and eventually landed on Kokian after some research. With only 16 rooms available, it met my first criteria of not being too crowded. Having said that, this would mean that I have to pay a much higher price to enjoy this privilege. Indeed, based on the price per night stay here, I will classify Kokian as a luxury or high end accommodation. Was contemplating whether I should splurge on an expensive stay while on the other hand, I was deeply attracted to the overall concept of Kokian depicted on its homepage. Eventually, my desire fueled my decision and I chalked up the most pricey stay in Yuda Onsen in this Chugoku episode. I have to say that Kokian lived up to expectations (and price of course) and what I found best about Kokian is how they managed to create this secluded setting despite being surrounded by major roads, other high rise hotels and residential buildings.

Omotenashi. Right from the moment we met the ryokan staff at Yuda Onsen JR Station, we were already showered by the strong omentonashi spirit displayed by Japanese. A well groomed man who was in his sixties and extremely eloquent in English came to pick us up at the train station. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by a lady staff who was already waiting for us at the entrance. The lounge was spacious and has a japanese western outlook. Warm towel was handed over to us and kombu tea was served while check-in procedure was proceeded smoothly. As usual, we were given a brief introduction of the facilities the hotel was equipped with, questions such as what our preferred dinning timings were for both meals and whether we had any dietary allergies were asked. Upon request, they also helped to reserve this 1 hour course sightseeing taxi (a collaboration between Yuda Onsen Ryokan Association and local taxi) for the next morning which we utilised to visit Rurikoji Pagoda 瑠璃光寺五重塔 and liaise with the staff of Gyokusenkaku (the accommodation we stayed on the following day) to pick us up from Nagato Yumoto JR Station in the late afternoon. This additional service is something that I am extremely appreciative of. One other scene I could vividly recall happened after our departure from Kokian. After we checked out of the ryokan, the staff drove us to the nearest bus stop to catch the bus heading for Akiyoshidou 秋芳洞. When the bus passed by Kokian, we were surprised to see two staff (including the well groomed uncle who chauffeured us on both days) stood by and waving to bade farewell to us!

Room. We were assigned to the room named Kirinso 麒麟草 located on the second floor of a separate building connected to the lobby via a sheltered walkway. Rooms on the ground floor, which are steeper in price, has a small pool extended in front of the patio - suitable for families with kids to play in. Room has both western and Japanese elements incorporated into its design. There are two double beds and for the third person and above, futons are placed on a tatami laid section of the room. There is a living room where an electrically operated fireplace, three-seater sofa, reclining armchair and coffee machine counter were spaciously arranged. The patio became my favourite spot in the room as I could enjoy the cool weather while relaxing on the rattan furniture here. Every room has a dedicated outdoor hot spring tub connected to the shower room, - this was where I had the luxury to enjoy a morning soak in my own private space before heading for breakfast. One other noteworthy mention was the high quality of fabrics used on the covers of sofa, cushions and blanket which were so smooth and comfortable to touch.

Hot spring. There are two bathhouses separated by gender named Karugamo (for gents) and Mimizu (for ladies). Each bathhouse has both indoor and outdoor section, and the size of the pools are way more spacious than I thought considering this is a boutique style accommodation. Adore the landscaping in the rotenburo (outdoor pool) where aesthetically pleasant water features such as water wall, stoned lined pool, etc were utilised. After an unwinding soak in the hot spring, guests can help themselves to ice-cream, cans of soft drink, calpis and green tea stored in the bar fridge located in the common resting area. There is also a foot bath situated just outside the main lobby building facing the huge grass carpeted compound. The water gushing out from the sources of Yuda Onsen is colourless and alkaline hot spring waters and can reach a maximum of 72 degC. Due to its alkaline nature, the hot spring waters nourishes and beautifies the skin. Apart from this therapeutic effect, it has been used to treat ailments such as neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain and recovery from exhaustion.

Extravagant meals. The greatest highlight of my stay at Kokian has got to be its extraordinary and exquisite meals prepared by the chef. I am honoured to have witness/experience for myself a masterly display of culinary skills and plating techniques by the kitchen to create a line up of dishes that intrigued my senses throughout the entire course of meal. This was truly an unforgettable dinning experience!

- Nakachoko 中猪口: Pickled wasabi with grilled yuba mochi (tofu skin), which is meant to be a palate cleanser dish.  

- Appetiser 前菜: Shrimp, fish pickled with nanban sauce, vegetable and salmon maki, broad bean, carrot castella.

- Sashimi 造里: Tiger prawn, sea bream, maguro, flounder, amberjack, squid and white clam. The small cube of maguro was the best out of all and it literally "melted" in my mouth. 

- Oshinogi お凌ぎ: Three vegetable nigiri sushi - bamboo shoot, ginger and hanakori 花っこりー, a hybrid between choy sum and broccoli cultivated in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The term "oshinogi" is something new to me. After some research, I found out it means food to surpass hunger and is usually one of the first few dishes served at the start of the kaiseki course.

- Nimono (stewed dish) 煮物: Tender stewed pork with potato sauce.
- Suimono 小吸物: Clear broth soup infused with the sweetness of sea urchin (or uni) and leek.
- Nabemono (hot pot) 鍋物: Soy milk hot pot with ingredients such as sea bream, scallop, squid, John Dory, lettuce, potherb mustard (suzuna), Shimeji mushroom, Shiitake mushroom, Enoki mushroom, carrot and onion.

- Agemono (fried dish) 揚げ物: Fried tempura of Japanese whiting, fiddlehead greens and young corn.
- Sunomono (vingeared dish) 酢の物: Thinly sliced anago served with cucumber wave garnish, wakame seaweed and ginger. There was one joke which arose to this dish. In the menu, the kanji for this dish was written as 蛇腹 (pronounced as "jabara"). In Mandarin, it means snake stomach and I was startled thinking that there was snake meat in it! After clarifying with the waiter, I realized it was referring to the wave like decorative cutting of the cucumber garnish.
- Yosara (western dish) 洋皿: Yuda roast wagyu beef tenderloin.
- Tomewan (last dish served with rice and tsukemono) 留椀: Shijimi clams in red miso paste soup.

- Kanmi (sweets) 甘味: Scoop of handmade ice-cream.

Typical Japanese style breakfast was served on the following morning - grilled fish being the main dish. Ended my meal with a delicious piece of mille crepe cake, accompanied with coffee/tea. Yet another moment of indulgence!

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Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵
〒753-0056 山口県山口市湯田温泉2-7-1
http://kokian.co.jp/
Contact number: (+81)083-920-1810
Email:info@kokian.co.jp

How to get there?
(1) By foot. About 10 minutes walk from Yuda Onsen JR Station 湯田温泉駅.

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Video: An introductory video on Kokian.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Tsukemen Honbo Karabu Tokashi Branch つけ麺本舗 辛部 十日市店

Visited 24.04.2015 (Fri)

Noodle culture. There are many varieties of noodles dishes that Hiroshima is proud of. For example, Hiroshima Ramen which the soup is Tonkotsu shoyu sauce based, dried dandan noodles (汁なし担々麵) with chili oil and sichuan peppercorn and spicy version of Tsukemen (つけ麺). Tsukemen is the dry version of ramen in which the cold noodles (typically) and soup/broth are served separately. Being sipping the noodles, they are first dipped into the soup/broth, similar to how cold soba/udon is eaten. Tsukemen enjoyed with a spicy dipping broth is specialty of Hiroshima. Do not relate this spicy broth to any other Japanese curry you have eaten, which is usually very subtle in heat. The spiciness level of Hiroshima's tsukemen is definitely much way beyond that!

Give me Level 1. Followed a book recommendation and made our way to Tsukemen Honbo Karabu, which is just a stone throw away from Honkawa-cho streetcar station. The restaurant utilises the traditional counter seating arrangement and open kitchen concept where you can observe the dynamics in the kitchen while waiting for your food to be served. First, choose the size of noodle serving; from half portion, normal, 1.5 times, twice or thrice the normal portion. Being a small eater myself, I usually go order the half portion. Next, select the desired spiciness level of the dipping broth to go with the cold noodle.
The spiciness level ranges from 0 to 30:

• Level 0 to 3: 普通, normal spiciness suitable for kids or people who are trying for the first time
• Level 4 to 6: 辛い, spiciness level will generate a little sweat
• Level 7 to 9: 中辛, medium spicy
• Level 10 to 15: 大辛, very spicy, for people who are confident of their tolerance for spicy food
• Level 16 to 20: 激辛, very very spicy
• Level 21 to 25: 超辛, extremely spicy, to the point you will start tearing
• Level 26 to 30: 猛辛, most spicy of all

I am not confident of the amount of heat I could handle, therefore decided to be conservative and chose Level 1. The cold noodle was served with two slices of char siew and covered by huge amount of cabbage and green onions. The soup base is flavoured by bonito and shoyu sauce, mixed with chili peppers, chili oil, vinegar and sesame. On first look, the dipping broth looks rather mild and "harmless", and was oozing fragrance of chili oil and sesame continuously, whetting my appetite. Coated my noodles with the dipping broth and enjoyed my first sip of tsukemen. The noodle was chewy and springy; and it did not taste spicy at first. Just when I thought I have over-estimated the spiciness level, the heat from the chili peppers and chili oil gradually crept in and swelled my lips! The numbing sensation is what you will get from eating mala hot pot and I have to admit that the it was quite good (or "shiok"). Char siew meat was tender, with the right amount of fats. Love the hearty serving of crunchy cabbage and green onions which elevated the taste further. Overall, I am pleased with the outcome of this food exploration as this is my first time eating tsukemen. This definitely falls into the list of food that I will want to eat again if I visit Hiroshima next time!  

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Tsukemen Honbo Karabu Tokashi Branch つけ麺本舗 辛部 十日市店
広島県広島市中区十日市町1-4-29
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1800 - 0000 hrs

How to get there?

(1) By streetcar. Take Hiroden Streetcar 2 or 6 from Hiroshima Station and alight at Honkawa-cho (本川町). Less than a minute walk away from the streetcar station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Kaki-ya 牡蠣屋

Visited 24.04.2015 (Fri)

Gems of the sea. My conclusion from this Chugoku trip was Hiroshima is a food paradise! Enjoyed sipping the noodles coated with broth infused with chili peppers and chili oil (tsukemen) and love the hearty serving of crunchy cabbage strips packed in a pancake (okonomiyaki). In fact, the most unforgettable meal I had was the oysters in Miyajima. Hiroshima is well known for its fat and juicy oysters harvest, which make up 60% of the overall domestic market in Japan. This is largely contributed by the favourable breeding grounds, both in terms of sea temperatures and weather conditions experienced by the Seto Inland Sea. Though oysters can be enjoyed all year round in Hiroshima, it is said that the best period to enjoy these gems of the sea is between November to March. Before coming to Miyajima, we ordered the teppanyaki style oysters at Micchan (where we had our okonomiyaki) as a side dish and were already won over by its taste. Because of this delectable experience, we were all looking forward to indulge in more oysters on the following day in Miyajima.

Best so far! Came to Kaki-ya, which literally means "oyster house", to enjoy our lunch after visiting Itsukushima Shrine. Kaki-ya is one of the many restaurants, located along Omotessando Shopping Arcade, offering oysters related dishes and aims to bring out the goodness of oysters using various cooking methods. Before coming here, I already had in mind to try their signature Kaki-ya set meal (牡蠣屋定食). Though this meal was on the pricey side (2,150 yen), I felt that for the quantity of oysters served on the plate, it was value for money. The sumptuous set meal comprised of:

- 2 x grilled oysters in the shell. This is the first thing you will see upon reaching the restaurant! The grill station is located at the storefront where fresh oysters are shucked and cooked on the spot. The oysters were cooked to perfection, retaining its natural sweetness and flavours.

- Half serving of oysters cooked on rice. The rice was cooked with a broth created using oysters and the oysters were simmered with soy sauce. I was totally blown away by the rice which was infused with the rich flavours of oysters. It was so enjoyable that I could not bare to finish up the last grain of rice...

- 3 x fried breaded oysters, served with homemade tartar sauce and ketchup. I am a fan of fried food and this hit the spot on the first bite. Love the crispy breaded skin encapsulating the moist oyster meat.

- 1 x oiled oyster. This is Kaki-ya's signature creation. Also available for sale in individual glass can, the oyster is first baked with oyster sauce at moderate temperatures in the oven and this step is repeated several times until the oyster sauce is infused into the meat, which has shrunk in size during the cooking procedure. Next the oyster is soaked in grapeseed oil, mixed with chili oil and bayleaf, for a period of time before it is best consumed. I was amazed by how rich the flavour was in this small piece of meat and it totally whet my appetite during the lunch course. In a spur of moment, I was so tempted to bring a few bottles of oiled oysters back home!

- Lastly, a bowl of red miso oyster soup to complete the set.

Kaki-ya was featured in Michelin's Guide for Hiroshima/Ehime published in 2013.
http://gmhiroshimaehime.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0913026801/

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Kaki-ya 牡蠣屋
広島県廿日市市宮島町539
Opening hours: 1000 - 1800 hrs
http://www.kaki-ya.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By foot.
Kaki-ya is located along Omotessando Shopping Arcade. From Miyajima Pier (Miyajima Sanbashi 宮島桟橋), it takes about 7 minutes to reach here by foot.

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Video: Scroll to 2:30 for 爱玩客's feature on Kaki-ya.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mitchan Sohonten みっちゃん総本店

Visited 23.04.2015 (Thu)

Battle of okonomiyaki. I love okonomiyaki and knew this was a specialty of Osaka all this while (even though I have not tried it personally in Osaka despite visited Japan numerous times). Little did I knew, okonomiyaki is also part of Hiroshima's rich food culture as well. So how do we distinct between the two different versions? Osaka's version mixes the batter together with all the ingredients first before pouring them directly on the hot plate. Whereas in Hiroshima's style okonomiyaki, the ingredients such as cabbage, meat/seafood and soba are put onto the pancake in a layered fashion. The popularity of okonomiyaki in Hiroshima has given rise to more than 1,800 restaurants offering this savory Japanese pancakes within the prefecture! With so many options to choose from, it was hard to decide on which to patronise. I finally decided on Mitchan Sohoten, a long running restaurant which first started out as a roadside stall in 1950.

Bustling with diners. Though we reached slightly before dinner hour, there was already a queue formed outside the restaurant. When we slide opened the doors, we were overwhelmed by the lively and bustling crowd in the restaurant, all eagerly waiting or tucking into their piping hot okonomiyaki. The open concept kitchen allows diners to see the chefs at work, hear the sizzling sounds from the teppanyaki and drool at the numerous okonomiyaki made concurrently in front of their eyes.

Okonomiyaki. Decided on Mitchan's Special Okonomiyaki (特製スペシャル), which comprised of fried squid, squid, shrimp, rice cake and udon (can choose either udon or soba). Apart from these ingredients, the okonomiyaki is jumbo packed with cabbage and beansprouts, between two thin layers of pancakes, brushed with their original sweet sauce and sprinkled with seafood powder just before served. Every bite of the okonomiyaki was so enjoyable as our teeth sank into the sweet tasting vegetables and springy udon noodles. The sweet sauce was umami and further elevated the flavours of the pancake; the taste is something that will make diners hooked onto it.

Oysters. From the teppanyaki menu, we ordered oysters and koune (コウネ) beef to go with our pancake. Hiroshima harvests oysters from the nearby Seto Inland Sea and is well known for its fat and juicy oysters. The oysters were cooked on the metal plate till they are coloured with a light brown crust on the outside. All of us exclaimed at how delicious the oysters were, a taste which we have not encountered before in Singapore. This was also an excellent prelude to our oyster feast in Miyajima planned on the following day.

Koune. This is the first time I come across the word "koune" in Japan which actually refers to the meat near the side of the front leg of a cow and is rich in collagen and gelatin. Only 2 kg of such meat can be retrieved from one cow, therefore making koune precious and limited in quantity. This is well liked by the locals in Hiroshima, thus elevating the dish to become a specialty of this prefecture. On the first look, the meat reminded me of pork belly used for shabu shabu. Tastewise, the fatty portion of the meat is what makes it so tasty and addictive.

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Mitchan Sohonten みっちゃん総本店

広島市中区八丁堀6-7チュリス八丁堀１F

Opening hours:
- Weekdays: 1100 - 1430 hrs, 1730 - 2130 hrs
- Weekends and public holidays: 1100 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 2130 hrs
http://www.okonomi.co.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) By streetcar and walk.
From Hiroshima Station, take Hiroden Streetcar 1, 2 or 6 and alight at Hatchobori Station 八丁堀. It takes another 5 minutes to walk to the restaurant from the streetcar station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Iwakuni Sushi 岩国寿司, Hirasei 平清

Visited 23.04.2015 (Thu)

Hirasei is the middle shophouse in the photo. A panoramic view of Kintakyo seen through the large window pane awaits on the second floor! 

Iwakuni zushi. This is a regional cuisine unique to Iwakuni city located in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Vinegared rice is first scooped into a large wooden frame. Next, other ingredients such as fish slices, eel, shredded egg crepe, fish floss, thinly sliced lotus root and mushroom are spread evenly on top of the rice. The steps are repeated a couple of times until several layers are formed. After that, the contents are pressed hard under weights to compact it. The huge pressed sushi is then divided into squares and ready to be served. It was said that this sushi was a favourite of the ruling feudal lord at that point of time (more than 500 years ago!). Around Kintaikyo Bridge, there are a handful of restaurants offering this signature dish on their menu and Hirasei is one of them. After visited Kintaikyo and Iwakuni Castle, we decided to head down to Hirasei, which is strategically located just in front of the iconic wooden arched bridge, to settle our lunch before returning to Hiroshima city.

Panoramic view. Hirasei has a long established reputation in this area since 1858 and has diligently followed the traditional way of making Iwakuni zushi 岩国寿司 to date. Here, patrons can savour Iwakuni zushi together with a main and side dishes in a set meal. I had the ja-nome gozen じゃのめ御膳 (1,700 yen) which comprised of vegetable tempura, sashimi, vinegared lotus root, a simmered dish, chawanmushi and most importantly, Iwakuni zushi. Hirasei's version of Iwakuni zushi is only made up of a single layer of rice covered on top with sliced mushrooms, shredded egg crepe and sakura fish floss. Personally, I felt it tasted as good as any other nigiri sushi I have eaten before, only that this is a reconstructed version, with a much novel appearance. Lotus root (or renkon), being a famous agricultural produce of Iwakuni, was also featured as tempura and vinegared form in the set meal - love the crisp texture of this root vegetable. One perk for seating on the second level of the restaurant is we could look out of the huge window panel to admire an obstructed view of Kintaikyo. What a luxury to relish lunch and enjoy a panoramic view at the same time!

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Hirasei 平清
741-0062 山口県岩国市岩国１丁目２－３
Operating hours: 1100 - 1400 hrs; 1700 - 2000 hrs; closed on Tuesdays
http://www.hirasei.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Less than a minute walk from Kintaikyo Bus Center.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Hotel Flex ホテルフレックス, Cafe 43 (Kyarantotorowa キャランとトロワ)

Stayed 22.04.2015 - 23.04.2015 (2 nights)

Reserved thru' Jalan.net.

- Single Room (with breakfast) = 5,500 yen (facing buildings; 11 m2)

- Twin Room (with breakfast) = 11,000 yen (facing river; 23 m2)

Atypical. It was definitely atypical for me to choose a hotel which is not near the train station especially when I am staying in a city area. Came upon Hotel Flex when I was searching for accommodation in Hiroshima and was immediately attracted to its minimalist concept. Had second thoughts when I found out about its location (from the train station, we have to cross two bridges with our luggage) but could not suppress the desire to spend at least a night in this designer hotel. Have planned to stay in Hiroshima for three nights; eventually decided to allocate the first two nights for Hotel Flex and the last night to stay put in Via Inn Hiroshima, which is located just beside the train station.

Designer hotel. Situated on the riverbank where Kyobashi river and Enko river diverges; rooms facing east can get an excellent view of the river. Hotel Flex employs similar operating philosophy like other budget business hotels; however what makes it stands out from its competitors is its affordable yet boutique quality. Utilisation of white and blue as the main colour scheme and wooden parquet flooring bring out this comfy ambience that makes guest feel at home during their stay. Despite the small floor area of their guest rooms (only 11 m2 for single room), excellent space optimization was able to create adequate walking area within the compact living space. In fact, I was already quite enraptured by the dimmed lights in the lobby upon arrival at the hotel in the evening. It is amazing to see how different elements complements one another - bare and rustic concrete walls, modern wooden furniture and sophisticated chandelier lights, all in one space. Everything in general was good, and Hotel Flex is definitely one place that I will fondly remember Hiroshima city for.

Designer cafe. Cafe 43 occupies the first floor of Hotel Flex and both the hotel and cafe share the same service counter. Semi alfresco style with subtle European flair, makes you want to enjoy a moment of luxury here, allowing time to sweep past slowly over a cup of coffee or relaxed meal. On our first night here, we decided to try their popular handmade pan galette (a pancake made with buckwheat flour). Ordered two different kinds to share - caramel nuts (キャラメルナッツ) and berries with creamy vanilla sauce. Each order comes in three mouth watering pancakes, all crispy golden brown on the outside and soft on the inside. Their version of pancake is thicker and dense in texture. For me, one order was too stomach filling; will recommend to share with other 2 person especially if you decide to have it for dessert after lunch/dinner. My stay with Hotel Flex also came with breakfast; each set came with a sandwich, yogurt, fruit and drink (coffee, tea and juices). There is a variety of sandwich fillings to choose from; had duck ham and raspberry, and chicken and basil on two separate mornings. Both were equally good. Breakfast is something I treasure a lot whenever I am on holidays; and such simple and well balanced breakfast in a conducive environment is the best way to start off the day right. 

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Hotel Flex ホテルフレックス
〒730-0014　広島県広島市中区上幟町7-1

Approx 10 mins walk from Hiroshima JR Station.
http://www.hotel-flex.co.jp/

Cafe 43 (Kyarantotorowa キャランとトロワ)
1st floor of Hotel Flex
Operating hours: 0700 - 1000 hrs; 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 2100 hrs
http://aglolywithatable.net/43/hiroshima