Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Akama Jinja (Akama Shrine) 赤間神社

Visited 27.04.2015 (Mon)

Waved to Kyushu! Made our way from Nagato Yumoto Onsen to Shimonseki city on our last day in Japan. Shimonoseki city is the westernmost city on Honshu island and separated from Kyushu island by Kanmon Straits 関門海峡. The two islands are connected by Kanmonkyo (Kanmon Bridge) to facilitate road transportation. In addition, there is a 780 m long tunnel, named Kanmon Tunnel 関門トンネル, that transverses under the sea and is dedicated for pedestrians only; making it a popular choice and unique option for visitors to commute between the two islands. As we spent less than half a day in Shimonoseki city, we did not allocate time to walk through Kanmon Tunnel this time round (yet another item added to my follow up list). Here, we visited a few other places including Karato Ichiba 唐戸市場, Karato Wharf 唐戸ワーフ and Akama Jinja 赤間神社, which are all located within close proximity to one another. Just right in front of Akama Jinja, an unobstructed view of Kanmonkyo and Kitakyushu can also be captured; a testament on how close these two prefectures (Fukuoka and Yamaguchi) are to one another.
Kanmon Tunnel 関門トンネル: http://www.oidemase.or.jp/tourism-information/spots/10471

Admiring Kanmonkyo while standing in front of Akama Jinja.

Origin. Kanmon Jinja is dedicated to the young Emperor Antoku, who was the 81st Emperor of  Japan. His grandmother, who was a nun, carried him (who was just 6 years old) and committed suicide by drowning during the period dan-no-ura 壇ノ浦の合戦 battle (final battle of Genpei War) in 1185. Upon arriving at Kanmon Jinja and passing through the first torii, Suitenmon 水天門 is the next eye catching landmark that comes into sight. My immediate response was I have seen something similar during previous trips to Japan. This elegant white and vermilion colured structure, bears close resemblance to Ryugu Shrine 龍宮神社 located in Ibusuki (Kagoshima Prefecture), which I have once visited before. Suitenmon was constructed to look like the legendary palace of the dragon god under the sea, which explained the similarities between both shrines. On 2nd May every year and over a period of three days, a ritual called Senteisai 先帝祭 is held in remembrance of the late Emperor Antoku at Akama Jinja. We happened to be here a few days before the ceremonial dates and managed to catch a glimpse of the vermilion coloured bridge which was temporarily erected to connect Suitenmon to the main shrine building. One of the highlights of the ceremony is its spectacular procession in which performers are donned in brilliantly coloured traditional costumes and the temporarily built bridge forms part of the route on which the procession walks on. For visitors who want to know more about dan-no-ura battle and the dominant clans during that era, there is a treasure hall 宝物殿 where exhibits containing related information are on display for reference.

Suitenmon.

The temporary bridge leading from Suitenmon to main shrine, in preparation for Senteisai.

The temporary bridge leading from Suitenmon to main shrine, in preparation for Senteisai.

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Akama Jinja (Akama Shrine) 赤間神社
〒750-0003　山口県下関市阿弥陀寺町4-1
Operating hours: 0600 - 1800 hrs
Free admission
Admission fee for treasure hall = 100 yen
http://www.tiki.ne.jp/~akama-jingu/

 


How to get there?

(1) By bus.
Board Sanden Kotsu bus サンデン交通バス from Shimonoseki Ekimae Bus Terminal 下関駅前バスタミナール Bus Stop 1 and 2 and alight at Akama Jinja mae 赤間神宮前. Bus ride takes approximately 9 minutes.
Bus fare = 230 yen

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Shimonoseki JR Station 下関駅

Shimonoseki JR Station (下関駅) is located on the Sanyo main line, in Shimonoseki city, the westernmost city on Honshu island. There are no limited express trains serving this train station especially when the nearest Shinkansen train station is at Shin-Shimonoseki JR Station (新下関駅), which is just two stops away from here. This is also the last train station on the Sanyo main line before the railway line crosses Kanmon Straits 関門海峡 and continues in Kyushu. Shin-Shimonoseki JR Station is on the Sanyo Shinkansen line but only served by the slower speed bullet trains such as Sakura さくら and Kodama こだま.

Latest themed sightseeing train! Previously a sightseeing themed train named Misuzu Shiosai みすゞ潮彩 operated on weekends and public holidays between Shin-Shimonoseki and Senzaki. During my last trip to Chugoku, I contemplated visiting Senzaki just because I wanted to ride on this train. Did not manage to do so eventually due to time constraint and made a mental note that I would cover this scenic route, which runs alongside the Sea of Japan, in the near future to come. While writing this blog entry, I realised that Misuzu Shiosai has ceased operation in January 2017 (after in operation for close to a decade). Not to fret as JR West has replaced Misuzu Shiosai with Marumaru no Hanashi ○○のはなし in August 2017. Operated on weekends and public holidays as well, this two carriage sightseeing train commutes between Shimonoseki and Hagi and makes one round trip per day. Wrapped with a much extravagant and elegant wallpaper, the two train carriages have completely different interior design - Car 1 is Japanese style where passengers can sit comfortably on tatami laid seats while Car 2 is Western style where all the seats are oriented to face the side where a panoramic view of Sea of Japan can be seen during the train journey. The word "ha-na-shi はなし", used in the name of the train, actually means tale/story in Japanese. Each of the three character actually comes from the name of the cities which the train passes by - "ha" from Hagi city, "na" from Nagato city and "shi" from Shimonoseki city.

Marumaru no Hanashi ○○のはなし: http://www.jr-odekake.net/navi/kankou/marumaru_no_hanashi/
Fare = 520 yen; train fare is included in nationwide JR Pass and JR West Pass.

Did not manage to ride Misuzu Shiosai before it ceased operation in January 2017. Picture taken from JR West pamphlet. 

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What's nearby?

(1) Tourist Information Center 下関駅観光案内所, located within the train station. 

Website: http://www.stca-kanko.or.jp/sightseeing/tourist/#tourist-p

(2) Shimonoseki Station Bus Terminal 下関駅バスタミナル, just outside the East Exit of train station.

- For Kamon Wharf カモンワーフ and Karato Market 唐戸市場, take the bus from Bus Stop 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 and alight at Karato 唐戸. 7 minutes by bus; fare = 220 yen.
- For Akama Shrine 赤間神宮, take the bus from Bus Stop 1 and 2 and alight at Akama Jinja mae 赤間神宮前. 9 minutes by bus; fare = 230 yen.

At Karato Bus Stop, where Shimonoseki Nabecho Post Office (in the centre) and Former Akita Co. Ltd Building (on the right) are in the vicinity.

- For Mine JR Station 美祢駅 and Akiyoshido 秋芳洞, take Bus 21 and 121 from Bus Stop 2.
- For Nagato Yumoto Onsen 長門湯本温泉 and Senzaki 仙崎, take Bus 127 (Shimonoseki ~ Tawarayama, Nagato, Senzaki line 下関～俵山・長門・仙崎線) from Bus Stop 2.

Bus schedule (departing from Shimonoseki Station Bus Terminal): http://www.sandenkotsu.co.jp/bus/route_bus/bus_stop/bg_shimonosekieki

(3) Daimaru departmental store 大丸下関, less than a minute walk away from train station.
In my previous blog entry on Tottori JR Station, I have mentioned that there are two Daimaru departmental stores in Chugoku region. Similarly, the branch in Shimonoseki city is located a stone throw away from the main train station.
Operating hours: 1000 - 1930 hrs
https://shimonoseki.daimaru.co.jp/

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Commemorative stamps:

* From tourist information center

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Day 12 Shimonoseki 下関

Day 12: 27.04.2015
* Day 5 of 7 Days Sanyo & San'in Area Pass

Kamon Wharf

Breakfast: Gyokusenkaku 玉仙閣

Free shuttle service to Nagato Yumoto JR Station.

Nagato Yumoto JR 長門湯本駅 (0800 hrs) > Asa JR 厚狭駅
by local train, via Mine line 美祢線.

Asa JR 厚狭駅 (0901 hrs) > Shimonoseki JR 下関駅 (0943 hrs)
by local train.

Shimonoseki JR Bus Stop 1, 2 > Karato 唐戸
by bus. [220 yen]

Visited:
- Karato Market 唐戸市場 http://www.karatoichiba.com/
- Kamon Wharf カモンワーフ http://kamonwharf.com/
- Akama Jinja 赤間神宮 http://www.tiki.ne.jp/~akama-jingu/

Lunch: Ten @ Kamon Wharf

Karato 唐戸 > Shimonoseki JR 下関駅
by bus. [220 yen]

Shimonoseki JR 下関駅 > Shin Shimonoseki JR 新下関駅
by local train.

Shin Shimonoseki JR 新下関駅 (1333 hrs) > Hiroshima JR 広島駅 (1444 hrs)
by Kodama こだま 744.

Collected luggage from Via Inn Hiroshima.

Hiroshima JR 広島駅 (1535 hrs) > Shin Osaka JR 新大阪駅 (1701 hrs)
by Nozomi のぞみ 38.

Shin Osaka JR 新大阪駅 (1745 hrs) > Kansai Airport 関西空港 (1843 hrs)
by Haruka はくら 35.

Dinner: Kineya @ Kansai Airport
http://www.kansai-airport.or.jp/en/index.asp

KIX (2135 hrs) > HND T2 (2245 hrs)
by NH100.

HND (2355 hrs) > SIN T2 (0615 hrs)
by NH843.

- End of 12 days Chugoku Trip - 

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mine JR Station 美祢駅, Nagato Yumoto JR Station 長門湯本駅

Both Mine JR Station (美祢駅) and Nagato Yumoto JR Station are located along Mine line (美祢線). Mine line is a 46 km long railway line in Yamaguchi Prefecture which connects Asa (厚狭駅) on the Sanyo main line to Nagato-shi (長門市駅) on the San'in main line. This single track railway line is only served by single carriage trains with about 1 train operating every 1 - 2 hours.

Collected this set of stickers depicting the three themed trains operating along Mine line. 

To promote ridership along Mine line, a portion of the trains were beautifully wrapped with pictures depicting stories arising from and places in surrounding areas. Currently, there are three different themes:

- San'in Onoda-go 山陽小野田号, decorated with pictures depicting the story of "Sannen netaro" (三年寝太郎; A man called Taro who slept for three years). It is said that once upon a time in Onoda city, there lived a man called Taro who did not work and slept most of his time sleeping. After sleeping for three years and three months, he finally woke up and requested for a boat filled with straw sandals from his father. He rowed all the way to Sado island (in Niigata) and returned with damaged straw sandals which he exchanged the new ones for from the gold miners. When he washed the damaged straw sandals, he discovered gold nuggets in the waters. He used the money he earned from selling the gold nuggets to build a weir across Asa River (厚狭川) and facilities to irrigate paddy fields, which brought prosperity to the locals in the city.

On board Mine-go!

- Mine-go 美祢号, decorated with pictures of Akiyoshidai (Japan's largest karst formation), sakura (flower representing Mine city) and Akiyoshido's iconic Hyakumaizara (百枚皿, 100 plates) and Koganebashira (黄金柱; Golden pillar).

- Nagato-go 長門号; decorated with fireworks of Mine city (held annually during summer) and a poetry named "Kodamadeshoka" (こだまでしょうか; Are you an echo?) written by Misuzu Kaneko (金子みすゞ), a talented children poetry writer who was born in Senzaki, Nagato city, in 1903.

JR Mine Line (in Japanese): http://www.jrminesen.com/

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Mine JR Station 美祢駅

Nature's work of art. Mine-shi is well known for Akiyoshidai (秋吉台) and Akiyoshido (秋芳洞). Akiyoshitai is Japan's largest karst formation and is designated as a quasi-national park. The limestone which forms Akiyoshitai began life as coral reefs about 300 million years ago. The dissolution of limestone overtime created this unique karst landscape here. Akiyoshido is the largest limestone cave in East Asia, situated just below Akiyoshidai. Visited both on a day trip and I was overwhelmed by the breathtaking landscape; this is truly one of the most prominent landmark of Yamaguchi Prefecture, which I will strongly encourage everyone to visit!
Akiyoshitai and Akiyoshido: https://karusuto.com/

What's nearby?

(1) Bus stop, just in front of the train station.
For Akiyoshido:
- Sanden Bus サンデン交通バス, Akiyoshido line 秋芳洞線.
Fee = 620 yen
Bus schedule (latest): http://www.sandenkotsu.co.jp/uploads/sites/2/2018/03/TT03_300316.pdf
- Sentetsu Bus 船木鉄道バス, Anmonaito-go あんもないと号. As this is a community bus serving local residents, the bus fare is much cheaper than the former. However, there are less bus services in comparison. Also note that the bus schedules are different on weekdays and weekends/public holidays.
Fee = 200 yen
Bus schedule (in Japanese):
http://www.sentetsu.biz-web.jp/
https://karusuto.com/access/

* Please note that JR Chugoku Bus Akiyoshido/Akiyoshitai line does not stop at Mine JR Station anymore.

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Nagato Yumoto JR Station 長門湯本駅

Longest history. The origin of Nagato Yumoto Onsen dates all the way back to Muromachi period (1336 – 1573). It was discovered by the chief priest of Taineiji (大寧寺), who was told about the existent of a hot spring source in the surroundings by Sumiyoshidaimyojin (住吉大明神) while he was mediating. Nagato Yumoto Onsen has the longest history than any other hot spring areas in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The train station is located about 10 minutes walk away from the main hot spring town where hotels, ryokans and public communal bathhouses can be found.
Nagato Yumoto Onsen (in Japanese): http://yumotoonsen.com/

What's nearby?

(1) Bus stop, just outside the train station.
- Sanden Bus サンデン交通バス, Shimonoseki ~ Tawarayama, Nagato, Senzaki line 下関～俵山・長門・仙崎線. This bus service operates between Shimonoseki 下関, Tawarayama Onsen 俵山温泉, Nagato Yumoto Onsen Entrance 湯本温泉入口, Nagato, Senzaki and Otomari 大泊 (in Omijima 青海島).

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Commemorative stamp:

Boarding certificate.