Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Iya Onsen Wanoyado 祖谷温泉和の宿, Hi no Ji ひの字 ("Hi" Valley)

Stayed 18.11.2014 (Tue)
Booked thru' Rurubu.
- Japanese style room = 58,320 yen (3 pax) + 450 yen (bathing tax, 150 yen/pax) = 58,770 yen SGD/pax

Can you spot the hotel? 

We hopped onto the hotel complimentary pick up service which waited for us (and other guests) at Michi no eki Oboke (道の駅 大歩危), which was also the last stop of the one day Oboke/Iya sightseeing bonnet bus trip. This seamless transfer was kindly arranged by Shikoku Kotsu, the company that operates Oboke/Iya sightseeing bus route. We were asked whether we would be staying overnight in Iya Onsen when we were reserving the seats for the sightseeing tour over the phone (with the help provided by the staff from the tourist information center in Tokushima JR Station). Kudos to Shikoku Kotsu for providing this additional service to link up with the local hotels!

"Hi no Ji" Valley.

Hi no Ji. Though it was a short 10 - 15 mins bus journey, the driver acted as a temporary tour guide and introduced us to several features that came into our view along the way. First he stopped at a spot where the beautiful "Hi no Ji (ひの字)" valley can be best viewed and he even allowed us to alight from the bus to capture photos! The name came from the unique shape of the stream which resembled the hiragana character "ひ". Next he brought our attention to this small building located on the slope of the valley. It was Wanoyado, the hotel which we would be staying for the night, strategically positioned to overlook at the meandering stream of Iya valley. I have to admit that the rather daunting location of the hotel did make me worry for a while but soon got over it as my eyes were drawn to the spectacular surrounding terrain and scenery.

Top right: Woke up to this beautiful view in the morning! Bottom right: Communal indoor bathhouse located on first level of main building.

Rooms and facilities. If I remember correctly, there are no lifts in the hotel (not that I was aware of). Wanoyado is not very big, comprised of six storeys with 29 guest rooms. Entrance and main restaurant (Keikoku no sato) are located on the fourth level. We were assigned to a Japanese style room on the new wing, which was connected to the main building on the fifth level. Room was spacious (22 m2) enough to occupy up to three persons and was also equipped with a massage chair and a BOSE CD player. There is a shop selling locally produced souvenirs on the same level as the lobby. Wanoyado is also proud of their exclusive range of toiletries which is made of local spring water and can be purchased at their shop.

Onsen with a view. Wanoyado is a member of Japan's hidden hot spring association also referred to as Nihon Hitou (日本秘湯). Ryokan/hotels which are part of this association are typically located in much secluded areas surrounded by well preserved natural landscape. Accessibility to these accommodation is not ideal as they are normally situated in mountainous region, but this is what makes them appealing to many travellers, especially for city dwellers to come closer to diminishing nature in this era. One unique feature of Wanoyado is that guests have to descend 170 m via cable car to reach the rotenburo, or open air bath, located right at the bottom of the valley! During the five minutes cable car ride, we were enthralled by the beautiful autumn foliage wrapped onto the slopes of the valley. Both rotenburo (separated by gender) were built alongside the Iya river. Never felt so close to nature before as I get to soak into the therapeutic hot waters while marveling at the panoramic mountainous scenery. When cable car operation ceased at night, guests can still utilise the communal indoor bathhouse located on the first level in the main building. Hot spring waters is cloudy in appearance due to the presence of white mineral deposits and leaves a smooth sensation on your skin. 

Clockwise from top left: Salad sticks; Grilled amego; Shiitake mushroom tea pot soup; Vegetable tempura; Appetisers; Iya soba.

Local food. Dinner started off with a small glass of yama momo red wine. Appetiser comprised of seven different small dishes, such as fried ginko nuts on sticks and chestnuts, were artistically arranged in a rattan basket. Was surprised to see a western dish (洋皿) in the menu but it was simply just vegetable sticks accompanied with several dipping sauces such as spicy miso, tomato and toro yuba (トロ湯葉). Toro yuba is the layer of silken tofu skin that is formed on the surface of heated soymilk. Liked the flavour of the shiitake mushroom teapot soup, drank together with a squeeze of lime. Assorted vegetables such as pumpkin and eggplant were served in tempura style. Local specialties and ingredients were featured extensively in this autumn inspired kaiseki course such as sobasubeshi (そばすべし) which is a type of thick vegetable soup; grilled amego fish, caught from Iya valley, served together with dried persimmon; Awa pork (阿波ポーク) hot pot and the well known Iya soba made from locally cultivated buckwheat. Ended the dinner with a refreshing yuzu sherbet and juicy kyoho grapes. Overall, it was a very fulfilling dinner - though my nose was being lured away by the sizzling Awa beef on hot plate relished by other patrons. 

More local food were introduced during breakfast on the following day such as Ishi tofu (石豆腐), translated literally as "stone tofu", is a type of dense and firm beancurd and Sobagomezosui (そば米雑炊), a soup containing shelled buckwheat kernel, carrot and tofu. Entered the restaurant and was welcomed by an unobstructed and breathtaking view of Iya valley. The beauty and contrast of autumn foliage were further elevated by rays from the sun. Being able to enjoy a hearty breakfast surrounded by stunning natural landscape was truly a one of a kind experience that I would remember Shikoku for.

Conclusion. Iya Onsen is definitely the most secluded and inaccessible hot spring town I have ever visited in Japan. Overall, the stay in Wanoyado was very revitalising and satisfying. I can only say if there is one place I will want to return to in Shikoku, Iya Onsen will definitely be on the top of my list!

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Iya Onsen Wanoyado 祖谷温泉和の宿
〒778-0165 徳島県三好市池田町松尾松本367-2
http://www.iyaonsen.co.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) Complimentary pick up service to/fro Oboke JR Station (大歩危駅). Reservation is required to utilise this pick up service.
- From Oboke JR Station, bus leaves for hotel at 1610 hrs.
- From hotel, bus leaves for Oboke JR Station at 0940 hrs.

(2) Bus
From Awa Ikeda JR Station (阿波池田駅), take Shikoku Kotsu (四国交通) bus heading for Kazurabashi (かずら橋)  via Deai (出合) and alight at Iya Onsen Mae (祖谷温泉前). Do note that there are only three buses to Iya Onsen per day (0716, 1026, 1246 hrs).
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/110.pdf

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Video: 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Oboke JR Station 大歩危駅, Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危

Oboke JR Station (D27), on the Dosan line. This unmanned train station is the gateway to several places of interest in Miyoshi-shi (三好市) such as Iya Onsen, Kazurabashi and Oboke/Koboke gorge. A prelude of Oboke gorge can also be experienced from a pathway located on the opposite side of the train station.

A glimpse of Oboke gorge at the train station.

Apart from local trains, the following limited express trains serve Oboke Station.
(1) Limited Express Shimanto, which commutes between Takamatsu and Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.
(2) Limited Express Nanpu, which commutes between Okayama, Kochi and Nakamura.

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What's nearby? 

(1) Bus stop, located just outside the train station. 

There are two buses heading for Kazurabashi (かずら橋) from Oboke Station:
- Shikoku Kotsu Bus (四国交通バス), Iya line (祖谷線)
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/009.pdf
* Note that additional buses are operated only on weekends & public holidays between Apr and Nov.
- Miyoshi-shien Bus 三好市営バス, Kazurabashi/Oboke line (かずら橋・大歩危線)
Bus schedule: https://www.miyoshi.i-tokushima.jp/fs/2/0/2/0/9/_/h28nishiiyajikokuhyousasikae.pdf

(2) Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危; Yokai House and Stone Museum 妖怪屋敷と石の博物館, about 20 mins walk from Oboke JR Station.
This is more than a conventional roadside station. Located just alongside Oboke gorge, this roadside station houses a tourist information center, a souvenir shop, a cafeteria offering Iya Soba (a specialty here) on their menu, a footbath to soak your legs in and an observatory to capture the beautiful scenery of the gorge. On top of the exhaustive list of facilities mentioned, the same building also contains a Yokai House and a stone museum. Oboke and Koboke are both located in Yamashiro-cho, and it is in this quaint (and mysterious) mountainous region where numerous folktales on yokai/spiritual creatures originated from. In fact, Konakijijii (こなきじじい), a yokai featured in "Gegege no Kitaro" manga series created by Mizuki Shigeru, was inspired by here. There are about 70 sculptures/figurines of yokai on display here in Yokai House and they are all handmade by the locals, to preserve and pass down this unique heritage for future generations to appreciate. On the other hand, the stone museum features precious stones consolidated from all over the world and detailed account on how Oboke gorge is formed. Though I did drop by Michi no eki Oboke with Oboke Iya sightseeing tour bus, I spent all my time at the observatory admiring Oboke gorge which was surrounded by autumn foliage.

Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危
〒779-5452　徳島県三好市山城町上名1553-1
- Yokai House and Stone Museum 妖怪屋敷と石の博物館
Opening hrs: 0900 - 1640 hrs
Admission fee: 500 yen
http://wx07.wadax.ne.jp/~yamashiro-info-jp/cp-bin/wordpress/

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Video: Scroll to 2:28 for Go Go Japan's feature on Yokai House.




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Commemorative stamp: 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Manikin Piss Boy & Iya Valley 小便小僧，祖谷溪

Visited 18.11.2014 (Tue)

Gorgeous natural landscape.

Well secluded. Till now, Iya valley is one of the most remote and inaccessible area I have ever visited in Japan. Alongside Gifu Prefecture's Shirakawa-go (白川郷) and Miyazaki Prefecuture's Shiiba-son (椎葉村), Iya valley is chosen as one of the three most well-secluded places in Japan. During the train journey from Tokushima city to Awa Ikeda JR Station (to board the Oboke Iya Regular Sightseeing Tour Bus), I was already fascinated by the breathtaking mountainous landscape view through the train windows. Was even more excited to embark on the day trip to explore Iya valley. And because we visited Shikoku during the autumn season, the surroundings were decorated and enhanced by memerising autumn foliage.

Manikin Piss Boy - a iconic symbol of Iya valley.

Nature's wonders. Due to the mountainous terrain here, the roads can be rather narrow and winding - so please be careful if you do plan to self drive. The first destination which the bonnet bus brought us to was the best viewing spot for Iya valley. At an elevation of 200 m, a panoramic view of the meandering river of Iya running through the mountains can be captured clearly from here. Stood at the same spot for quite some time as I could not take my eyes off this stunning backdrop. This is undoubtedly a true display of nature's wonders.

Act of courage? Situated at the edge of a cliff is a manikin of a boy pissing. A symbol of Iya valley, it is said that in the past, children stood up at this most dangerous spot of Iya valley and urinated from here as a display of their courage. Even if it is allowed now, I don't think I will be that daring enough to try that!

Backdrop decorated by autumn colours.

Posta Collect's depict of Iya Valley and Manikin Piss Boy. 

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Manikin Piss Boy & Iya Valley 小便小僧，祖谷溪
三好市池田町松尾～三好市西祖谷山村
http://www.miyoshinavi.jp/02miru/detail.php?genr=101&uid=SS000044

How to get there?

(1) Local buses
From Awa Ikeda JR Station:
- Board Shikoku Kotsu Bus (四国交通バス), Iya line (祖谷線) heading towards Kazurabashi (かずら橋). Alight at Furo no tani (風呂ノ谷).
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/010.pdf

(2) Oboke Iya Regular Sightseeing Tour Bus 大歩危・祖谷定期観光バス
Price = 7,500 yen (adults); 7,000 yen (child)
Period of operation: Daily in May, August, October and November; Weekends and public holidays in March, April, June, July and September.
Itinerary: Awa Ikeda JR Station > Iya Valley and statue of pissing boy > Lunch > Kazurabashi > Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore > Michi no eki Oboke > Oboke sightseeing boat cruise > Awa Ikeda JR Station

Website: http://yonkoh.co.jp/
Email to make seat reservation: yonkoh@arion.ocn.ne.jp
Check seats availability: http://secure.j-bus.co.jp/web/asp/HnCurceDate.asp?gpcd=360303&rocd=0001&bncd=0001&mode=1

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Kazurabashi かずら橋, Oboke Iya Regular Sightseeing Tour Bus 大歩危・祖谷定期観光バス

Visited 18.11.2014 (Tue)

Designated national cultural asset. Miyoshi-shi is a mountainous countryside area, where Mount Tsurugi (Tsurugi-san 剣山) , the second highest mountain on the island of Shikoku, is located in. Kazurabashi is a suspension bridge made from the vines of Actinidia auguta (a hardy kiwifruit) and is reconstructed every three years. Origin of this vine bridge can be traced back to close to a millennium ago, when the Heike Clan lost the Geppei war with Minamoto Clan, fled from Kyoto and settled down in this secluded region. Kazurabashi is about 45 m long, 2 m wide, weighs approximately 5 tons and is suspended 15 m above water. Bridge was constructed to facilitate movement across the gorge in this remote area by the Heike Clan and could be cut off anytime to protect themselves from enemies. Apart from the legend behind this bridge, the gorgeous natural backdrop of wilderness that Kazurabashi is set against to is what make this place so fascinating to many visitors. 

Cross with caution. Experienced for myself how people crossed this daunting looking bridge in the old days. Despite the bridge being relatively wide, one way traffic is only allowed here. The gap between the wooden planks is actually wide enough to put a foot through, therefore I had give up photo taking to hold both hands on the side and literally took baby steps to complete the traverse across the gorge. After crossing the bridge, we were welcomed by the sight of Biwa no taki (琵琶の滝), a 50 m high waterfall, whose name came from a Japanese lute played by Heike Clan as they reminisced the good old days by this natural water feature. Was given ample time to capture and soak myself into the picturesque scenery of Kazurabashi, Iya river and autumn foliage, couldn't help but awe at this mysteriously beautiful landscape right in front of my eyes.

Biwa no taki.

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Kazurabashi かずら橋
三好市西祖谷山村善徳162-2
Operating hours: Sunrise to sunset, open throughout the year
Admission fee = 550 yen
https://www.awanavi.jp/feature/kazurabashi.html

How to get there? 

(1) Local buses
From Oboke JR Station:
- Shikoku Kotsu Bus (四国交通バス), Iya line (祖谷線)
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/009.pdf
* Note that additional buses are operated only on weekends & public holidays between Apr and Nov.
- Miyoshi-shien Bus 三好市営バス, Kazurabashi/Oboke line (かずら橋・大歩危線)
Bus schedule: https://www.miyoshi.i-tokushima.jp/fs/2/0/2/0/9/_/h28nishiiyajikokuhyousasikae.PDF

From Awa Ikeda JR Station:

- Shikoku Kotsu Bus (四国交通バス), Iya line (祖谷線).

Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/010.pdf

(2) Oboke Iya Regular Sightseeing Tour Bus 大歩危・祖谷定期観光バス
One of the best (and fastest) way to cover most of the attractions in Miyoshi, is to sign up for this 1 day sightseeing tour bus service offered by Shikoku Kotsu. Sale of tickets starts 3 months before excursion date and reservation can be made through either email or phone. The price of the entire sightseeing bus tour includes lunch, admission fees to Kazurabashi [550 yen] and Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore [500 yen], and Oboke sightseeing boat cruise ticket [1,080 yen]. Bus departs from Awa Ikeda JR Station at 1045 hrs and returns to the same train station at around 1620 hrs. For my trip, since we were staying in Iya Onsen for the night, I requested the staff from Shikoku Kotsu (through the help of the tourist information center at Tokushima JR Station) to liaise with the ryokan Iya Onsen Wanoyado) to pick us up from Oboke sightseeing boat cruise center, the last place of interest on the itinerary, instead of returning to the train station with the rest on the sightseeing bus.

Price = 7,500 yen (adults); 7,000 yen (child)
Period of operation: Daily in May, August, October and November; Weekends and public holidays in March, April, June, July and September.
Itinerary: Awa Ikeda JR Station > Iya Valley and statue of pissing boy > Lunch > Kazurabashi > Heike Yashiki Museum of Folklore > Michi no eki Oboke > Oboke sightseeing boat cruise > Awa Ikeda JR Station

Website: http://yonkoh.co.jp/
Email to make seat reservation: yonkoh@arion.ocn.ne.jp
Check seats availability: http://secure.j-bus.co.jp/web/asp/HnCurceDate.asp?gpcd=360303&rocd=0001&bncd=0001&mode=1

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Video: Scroll to 42:30 for 爱玩志's feature on Kazurabashi.

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Day 6 Oboke 大步危, Iya Onsen 祖谷温泉

Day 6: 18.11.2014
* Day 3 of 5 days All Shikoku Rail Pass

Hi (ひ) no valley

Breakfast: 7 Days Hotel Plus セブンデイズホテル プラス

Hasuike machi dori 蓮池町 > Kochi ekimae 高知駅前
by Tosaden streetcar.

Kochi JR 高知駅 (0913 hrs) > Awa Ikeda JR 阿波池田駅 (1019 hrs)
by Ltd Express Nanpu 8.

Joined Oboke Iya Regular Sightseeing Bus Tour 大歩危・祖谷定期観光バス [6,400 yen; price before 1 Apr 2016 7,000 yen]
http://yonkoh.co.jp/

Visited Manikin Piss Boy & Iya Valley 小便小僧，祖谷溪

Lunch: Hotel Kazurabashi ホテルかずら橋　

Visited
Kazurabashi かずら橋
Heiki Yashiki Museum 平家屋敷　
Michi no eki Oboke (Roadside Station) 道の駅大歩危
Oboke Iya Sightseeing Boat 大歩危峡船下り

Check in: Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉

http://www.iyaonsen.co.jp/english/

Dinner: Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉

- End of Day 6 -

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Awa Odori Kaikan 阿波おどり会館

Visited 16.11.2014 (Sun)

Must visit! Awa Odori (阿波おどり) has a long history, dating all the way back to 400 years ago and has successfully evolved as a prominent trademark of Tokushima Prefecture. The dance is celebrated as a summer festival all over the entire prefecture in August and the largest scale event is held in Tokushima city from 12 to 15 August, attracting an amazing figure of 1.3 million visitors to this small city which has only a population of about 260,000! Unbelievable isn't it?
So what makes Awa Odori so appealing to so many people? The basic dance movements can be executed easily by most people regardless of age - move right leg and arm forward at the same time, followed by left leg and arm and repeat the movements. Such action is rather unorthodox (in mandarin, we refer this as "同手同脚"), may seemed hilarious to many but this is simply unique to Awa Odori and you would not be criticized for doing that! Be fascinated by how synchronised the movements of all performers are as they danced merrily down the street to the beat of melodious music, shouting out the cheers energetically. Apart from the spirit of celebration, what impressed me most is the shear amount of effort taken to make such event sustainable which has a greater cause to instill a sense of belonging: something that the locals can relate to or be proud of back at home. If you are unable to participate in the actual event in August, Awa Odori Kaikan is where this vibrant dance can be enjoyed all year round and definitely one attraction that should not be missed on any visit to Tokushima. 

Just dance! Covered Naruto whirlpools and Onaruto-bashi in the day and visited Awa Kaikan in the evening. Bought our tickets to the only night show held everyday at 8 pm. Donned in colourful traditional costumes, dance troupe is made up of people of different ages; from as young as elementary school students to seasoned performers in their forties. As I immersed myself into the jubilant atmosphere, I realised that the dance was not as easy as I thought. The professional version of Awa Odori actually requires performers to dance close to a half squat posture which can be quite strenuous to the knees. Audience will get to learn the dance with the help of live demonstration and even join in the fun in one of the dance segments. Overall, we enjoyed ourselves throughout the 50 minutes performance as it was very engaging from the start till the very end. The ecstatic mood experienced during Awa Odori continued on even after the performance as we attempted to do the dance on our walk back to the hotel from Awa Odori Kaikan (when no one was looking)!

Other facilities. Tourist information corner and Arudeyo Tokushima, an area dedicated to sale of local products and souvenirs, are located on the ground floor. The hall where performances are held is on the second floor. A mini museum introducing the history and features of Awa Odori is accessible on the third floor. Ropeway to the summit of Bizan is located on the fifth floor. Did contemplate to visit Bizan which promises a good overview of Tokushima city, but was not able to squeeze out time to accomplish this in the end. Ropeway round trip cost 1,020 yen.

Awa Odori Kaikan with Bizan in the background.

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Awa Odori Kaikan 阿波おどり会館
Day performance ticket price = 600 yen
- Weekdays: 3 performances/day (1400, 1500 and 1600 hrs)
- Weekends and public holidays = 4 performances/day (1100, 1400, 1500 and 1600 hrs)
Night performance ticket price = 800 yen
- Everyday, commences at 2000 hrs
http://www.awaodori-kaikan.jp/
Awa Odori (in Japanese): http://www.awanavi.jp/awaodori/

How to get there?
(1) By foot. Approx 10 minutes walk from Tokushima JR Station.

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Video #1: Scroll to 1:57 for Go Go Japan's feature on Awa Odori Kaikan.



Video #2: Scroll to 10:20 for 爱玩客's feature on Awa Odori Kaikan.


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Commemorative stamps:

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Domannaka どまん中

Visited 16.11.2014 (Sun)

I want to eat Awaodori! Ramen comes to the mind of most people when Tokushima Prefecture is mentioned. Deep brown coloured tonkotsu shoyu soup, topped up with a raw egg are some of the unique features of Tokushima style ramen. Personally, I am not a fan of ramen therefore I decided to give this local specialty a miss. What caught my attention instead was Awaodori (otherwise known as Awa chicken 阿波尾鶏), a local breed of chicken well known for its firm texture, sweet taste and is less fat compared to an average chicken. Awa was actually the previous name for Tokushima (i.e. Sanuki for Kagawa, Iyo for Ehime and Tosa for Kochi). Had really good grilled chicken thigh on our first day in Takamatsu (in Yoridori Midori), therefore was looking forward to try this other version in Tokushima. Did a quick search and found one restaurant, Izakaya Tokusan 居酒屋とくさん, specialising in local cuisine located near Agnes Hotel Tokushima. Unfortunately, I later realised that it was closed on Sundays. Kept a lookout for other restaurant along the same street and noticed this isolated, new and modern looking shophouse, located a few blocks away. And yes, once I spotted the Kanji "阿波尾鶏" on the menu, I entered the restaurant without further ado. [Note: though it is stated that the restaurant is closed on Sundays, it happened to be opened for business on the particular day of our visit.]

Top left: Shiitake and Eryngii mushrooms grilled with soy sauce; Bottom left: Awaodori negima kushi; Top right: Egglant in robata style; Bottom right: Awaodori tebasaki kushi.

Blown away! Domannaka is a modern Japanese style restaurant owned by Grand Palace Hotel, the creator behind Agnes Hotel Tokushima as well. Warm lighting and large amount of wooden furnishing created this comfortable dining environment in the restaurant. Were seated at the counter which faced the open concept kitchen, allowing us to observe chefs' display of culinary skills. There is a decent selection of food available on the menu to choose from - skewers, robata, nabe, sashimi, tempura, etc. As Awaodori was the main focus of this dinner, I ordered a mixture of skewers and robata, and a nabe (hot pot) to share. Overall, the dining experience was extremely satisfying and would have been longer if not for the back-end constraint (because we were rushing off to watch the last Awa Odori performance at 8 pm). Cheers to Awaodori!

What we ordered:

• Awaodori negima kushi 阿波尾鶏ねぎま串 (skewer of Awaodori and leek): both lean and fatty portion of the meat was skewed together with leek. During the process of grilling over the flames, the cracking sound created when oil dripped out from the meat into the heat source was so appealing and intriguing to my senses. Meat was cooked to perfection; slight crispiness on the relatively fattier portion of meat and meat juices were fully retained. Crunchy leek complemented well with the meat and helped to remove some of the oiliness from the meat. [210 yen]
• Awaodori tebasaki kushi 阿波尾鶏手羽先串 (skewer of Awaodori wing): I am always wary of eating grilled/BBQ chicken wings because it is hard to make sure the meat is fully cooked to the bone. Lightly salted skin was grilled skilfully till crispy golden brown and sweetness of the meat can be felt as soon as the teeth pierced into it. When chicken wings are cooked well, it is hard to resist and many times I ended up eating more than I should. [320 yen]  
• Eggplant in robata style 茄子炉端焼き: Shikoku is where I had the most number of eggplants during any trip to Japan. Not sure why but eggplant tasted extremely delicious and juicy (like a fruit) here in Shikoku and I could not resist ordering one when I spotted it on the menu. A whole eggplant was roasted over the grill till the skin became slightly charred to impart a smoky flavour to the flesh. Chef peeled off the skin and cut the eggplant into manageable pieces before serving it together with bonito flakes. The taste did not disappoint again! [530 yen]
• Stewed dumplings in Awaodori soup 阿波尾鶏スープの炊き餃子: Soup was very delectable and flavourful, providing an alternative way to savour this locally breed chicken. [1,050 yen]
• Soy sauce grilled Tokushima produced shiitake and eryngii 徳島産椎茸とエリンギの醤油焼き [530 yen]
• Awaodori momo kushi 阿波尾鶏もも串 (skewer of Awaodori leg) [210 yen]
• Awaodori liver kushi 阿波尾鶏レバー串 [160 yen]

Top left: Awaodori momo kushi; Bottom left: Stewed dumplings in Awaodori soup.

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Domannaka どまん中
〒770-0831　徳島市寺島本町西 1-47
Contact No: 088-623-3293
Operating hours: 1130 - 1400 hrs (Mon - Thu); 1700 - 2200 hrs; closed on Sundays.
http://wa-domannaka.jp/

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Naruto JR Station 鳴門駅

Naruto JR Station (N10), is the terminus station on Naruto line.

Local trains leave Naruto for Tokushima at approx hourly intervals. Naruto JR Station is a relatively small train station, with no shops or tourist information center found within the same 1 storey building. After visiting Naruto Koen, I took the bus heading for Tokushima and alighted at the bus stop in front of Naruto JR Station. Transferred to the local train here to return to Tokushima.

What's nearby?

Naruto Koen bus stop

(1) Bus stop
Take the bus in front of Naruto JR Station and alight at the last stop Naruto Koen. Bus journey takes about 20 mins. 
At Naruto Koen, most of the attractions are within walking distance:
- Uzunomichi (渦の道): located beneath the road on Onaruto bridge, witness the famous whirlpools just beneath your foot. 
- Eddy Musuem (エデイ): Exhibition featured how Onaruto bridge was constructed and the mechanics of whirlpools in the strait of Naruto. Onaruto bridge can be seen on its rooftop observation deck. However, its elevation is not high enough to capture a aerial/complete view of Onaruto bridge.  
- Eska Hill (エスカヒル): Take a 68 m long escalator to the observatory deck. The view of Onaruto bridge here is much more magnificent as compared to Eddy Museum.

Bus schedule: http://www.tokubus.co.jp/?page_id=4805

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Commemorative stamp:

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Uzunomichi 大鳴門橋遊歩道 渦の道, Eddy 大鳴門橋架橋記念館 エディ

Visited 16.11.2014 (Sun)

Whirlpools! When I first heard that it is possible to see and experience whirlpools in the open waters, it felt exciting yet terrifying somehow. Is it safe to be so close to the whirlpools? Will the boat get sucked into a whirlpool? These are some of the questions that ran through my mind at that point of time. Naruto Straits 鳴門海峡, alongside Italy's Strait of Messina and Canada's Seymour Narrows, are known to generate the world's biggest tidal whirpools. Under the right conditions, the whirlpools in Naruto Straits can measure up to twenty meters in diameter, recording a speed of 20 km/hr, making them the fastest whirlpools in Japan. The best viewing seasons are spring and autumn; however, it is recommended that visitors check the schedule online (on Uzunomichi's homepage) to increase the probability to see these whirlpools in action.

The entrance to Uzunomichi.

There are two ways to come close to these whirlpools. One popular option is to board a cruise ship to transverse through and come closer to these swirling tidal waves. I chose to see it from Onaruto Bridge, the suspension bridge which connects Awaji island of Hyogo Prefecture to Naruto city of Tokushima Prefecture and spans across the Naruto Straits. Uzunomichi (渦の道) is a 450 m long floating promenade constructed on the girders of Onaruto Bridge. There are glass panels on the floor where visitors can look through to see the whirlpools from directly above. Unfortunately, on the day of my visit, the whirlpools generated were small and less impactful, visually. Therefore, my photos may not be truly representative of what can be seen on a good day...

How do they form? Seto Naikai 瀬戸内海 and Kiisuido 紀伊水道 is connected by Naruto Straits. At the narrow Naruto Straits, the tidal range (the difference between high and low tides) can reach as high as 1.5 m. A combination of the huge tidal currents and unique underwater terrain give rise to these spinning water bodies in Naruto Straits.

After visiting Uzunomichi and Eska Hill, we made our way to Eddy since we bought the discounted bundled ticket which covered the entrance fees for both Uzunomichi and Eddy. Eddy is a museum dedicated to whirlpools and Onaruto Bridge, where interactive exhibits explained how whirlpools are created and models dissecting the architectural structure of Onaruto Bridg were put on display. There is an observation platform on the rooftop of the building where an unobstructed view of Onaruto Bridge and Naruto Straits can be seen. Personally, I felt that the view from Eska Hill was much better than that from Eddy because of its elevation.

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Uzunomichi 大鳴門橋遊歩道 渦の道

〒772-0053 徳島県鳴門市鳴門町（鳴門公園内）
Operating hours:
- Mar to Sep: 0900 - 1800 hrs (last admission at 1730 hrs);
- Oct to Feb: 0900 - 1700 hrs (last admission at 1630 hrs)

Admission fee = 510 yen

Eddy 大鳴門橋架橋記念館 エディ

〒772-0053 徳島県鳴門市鳴門町（鳴門公園内）
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs (last admission at 1630 hrs)

Admission fee = 610 yen

Note: Purchase the discounted package ticket if you plan to visit both attractions: 1,120 900 yen
Website: http://www.uzunomichi.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
- At Tokushima Ekimae Bus Terminal Bus Stop #1, board Naruto line (鳴門線) bus heading for Naruto Koen 鳴門公園. Bus journey takes approx 1 hr 15 mins; fee = 710 yen.
- At Naruto JR Station, board Naruto line (鳴門線) bus heading for Naruto Koen 鳴門公園. Bus journey takes approx. 30 mins; fee = 310 yen.
Approx 5 minutes walk from bus stop. There are clear signage at the bus stop and in the vicinity providing clear directions to the main attractions in Naruto Koen: Uzunomichi, Eddy and Eska Hill.
Bus schedule (in Japanese): http://tokubus.co.jp/wptbc/routebus/#tbc

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Video: Fast forward to 3:17 for Go Go Japan's feature on Uzunomichi.

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Commemorative stamps:

Uzunomichi

Uzunomichi

Eddy

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Eska Hill エスカヒル

Visited 16.11.2014 (Sun)

Panoramic view of Onaruto Bridge.

Facts and figures. Onaruto bashi (Onaruto Bridge 大鳴門橋) is a suspension bridge which connects Awaji island of Hyogo Prefecture to Naruto city of Tokushima Prefecture. Construction of this 876 m long bridge started in 1976 and it was eventually opened to public in 1985. There are a few ways to admire this architectural masterpiece; from the roof top at Eddy, the Onaruto Bridge crossing memorial hall or at the viewing platform located at summit of Eska Hill. I have been to both and personally, I prefer the latter because of its higher elevation.

A three storey building at the top of Eska Hill; the glass enclosure leading to the building is the 68 m long escalator.

Magnificent view. One of the feature of Eska Hill is its 68 m long escalator which brings visitors from the base to the summit where the observatory is located. Standing on the roof top, a 360 degree panoramic view of the surroundings awaits, especially on a good clear weather day - Naruto Koen, Awaji island on the other end of Onaruto bashi, even a glimpse of Shodoshima on the left and Wakayama on the right. Was fully engrossed by the magnificent view of Onaruto bashi, the sea and island for quite a fair bit of time. Though there is a restaurant located in the same building, do note that it is only opened for business if there are reservations (but I guess it is mainly catered for tour group). A souvenir shop is located at the base of the hill. Despite being the better viewing spot out of the two, it appeared to be less well received (I felt that there were more tourists at Eddy in comparison). During my visit, I also felt that place needed some form of renewal as it showed some signs of lackluster and lack of maintenance. Hopefully things have changed by now... 

About 3 minutes escalator ride; the longest I have taken in my life.

Looking back at Naruto city; cylindrical building on the left is Eddy Museum.

Can you see the windmills on Awaji island?

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Eska Hill エスカヒル
 鳴門市鳴門町土佐泊浦福池65
Operating hours: 0830 - 1700 hrs
Admission fee = 400 yen
http://www.narutokanko.co.jp/eskahill/index.html

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
- At Tokushima Ekimae Bus Terminal Bus Stop #1, board Naruto line (鳴門線) bus heading for Naruto Koen 鳴門公園. Bus journey takes approx 1 hr 15 mins; fee = 710 yen.
- At Naruto JR Station, board Naruto line (鳴門線) bus heading for Naruto Koen 鳴門公園. Bus journey takes approx. 30 mins; fee = 310 yen.
Approx 5 minutes walk from bus stop. There are clear signage at the bus stop and in the vicinity providing clear directions to the main attractions in Naruto Koen: Uzunomichi, Eddy and Eska Hill.
Bus schedule (in Japanese): http://tokubus.co.jp/wptbc/routebus/#tbc

Video: Scroll to 1:00 for Go Go Japan's feature of Eska Hill.