Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kourantei 紅蘭亭 下通本店

Visited 26.03.2014 

What is Taipien? A modified version of Nagasaki's famous Champon noodles, known as Taipien (太平燕), is found in Kumamoto. Origin of this local gourmet food can be trace back to a century ago - a soup dish brought to Kumamoto by Chinese immigrants from Fujian Province in China. Similar to Champon, the rich broth is cooked using both chicken and pork bone but is less milky in comparison. Yellow noodles is replaced with vermicelli, topped with a fried boiled egg, plenty of vegetables, shrimps, squids and sliced pork. I prefer Taipien to Champon because it is lighter in flavour and I like vermicelli more than noodles. Rushed to have a bowl of Taipien just before I left Kumamoto at Kourantei (紅蘭亭), an established Chinese restaurant founded in 1934. Came to their flagship store at Shimo Tori (下通). 

Excellent Chinese food. During this trip in Kyushu, I patronised two Chinese restaurants without high expectations of the food quality delivered. The delicious stewed pork belly buns I had in Shihairou (四海楼) changed my impression of Chinese food in Japan. This pleasant experience gave me the assurance that Chinese food in Japan isn't as bad as I thought. At Kourantei, we decided to try out a 6 course meal (円卓料理) inclusive of Taipien. It was impressive and some of the dishes were even better than what I have eaten before in my life! The 6 course meal includes meat dumplings (quite similar to siew mai), a hearty bowl of Taipien, prawns cooked in chili sauce, sweet and sour pork, fried rice and Annin tofu (杏仁豆腐) as dessert. Apart from Taipien, I felt that there were two dishes which stood out from the rest - sweet and sour pork and almond pudding.   

- Sweet and sour pork. We were all stunned by how good this dish turned out to be. Meat was fried to perfection - crispy on the outside while retaining the moisture in the meat. Every piece of meat was well coated with the savory and appetising sauce, accompanied with "wok hei" fragrance! All agreed that this dish was the highlight of the entire course.

- Annin tofu. I have to say this was an excellent finale to complete the meal. Kourantei's version of apricot kernel pudding was very smooth in texture and melt in the mouth - a sensation I have never experienced before with this traditional Chinese dessert!

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Kourantei 紅蘭亭 下通本店
熊本市中央区安政町5-26 2F
Opening hrs: 1130 - 2130 hrs
http://www.kourantei.com/

How to get there?
Take Kumamoto City Tram (A line from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Torichosuji 通町筋. Walk for another 3 - 4 minutes along Shimo Tori covered walkway.



Note: Kourantei has another branch located along Kami Tori (上通).
Kourantei Kami Tori Pavilion 紅蘭亭上通パビリオン店
熊本市中央区上通町1-15
Opening hrs: 1130 - 2130 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Sakurajima Ferry 桜島フェリー

Travelled 25.03.2014

Not an island anymore. Despite its name, classifying Sakurajima as an island is not entirely true now because part of its circumference is linked to the mainland (Osumi Peninsula) as a result of an eruption that occurred in 1914. High volcanic activity results in varying amount of ashes being released to its surrounding area everyday. Despite the looming danger of volcano eruption all the time, a small population chose to stay on this island, harnessing the fertile soil for agricultural needs and hot spring generated by the earth.

The most convenient way to get to Sakurajima is by ferry which can carry both passengers and automobiles. 

• Ferry runs between Kagoshima city and Sakurajima 24/7 everyday. 
• One way fare is 160 yen for adult and 80 yen for child. You will not asked to pay any fare when you board the ferry from Kagoshima Port because the conductor is stationed at Sakurajima Port and will collect the fare when you get off/board from there. 
• Ferry ride takes about 15 minutes. A ferry disembarks from either port every 15 minutes interval between 0600 - 2030 hrs.  

Oishii Udon! Started the day early and took a cab to the ferry terminal. The driver broke the silence and started to engage in a casual conversation with us, though I could not comprehend majority of what he said. Just before we reached, he mentioned "oishii udon" with his finger pointing towards the ferry terminal. From the enthusiastic tone of his voice, you can really feel that the he meant what he said. However, I could not really relate what udon has to do with this ferry at that point of time. This burning question which was eventually resolved when I caught sight of this small food stall inside the ferry and yes, it was selling udon and soba. Was still full from the early breakfast and decided to try this during our return route instead.

In fact I was skeptical at first because it looks like any udon I have eaten before. Had high expectations because udon is also one of my favourite Japanese food, Nevertheless, decided to give it a try. Ordered my bowl of udon and added a piece of fishcake to it. I was fully captivated by the taste after delivery the first spoonful of noodles and soup into my mouth. Dashi (soup) is very light but immersed with the flavours of bonito flakes and kombu. Udon was firm and smooth, to the point I could slurp the entire strand into my mouth in one breath! Having tasted many different bowls of udon, I must say this is the best I have eaten before. May sound overly exaggerated but this is the type of comfort food that warms the stomach and heart.

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Sakurajima Ferry 桜島フェリー
http://www.city.kagoshima.lg.jp/sakurajima-ferry/


How to get there?

(1) Take Kagoshima City Tram bound for Kagoshima ekimae, alight at Suizokukan-guchi. Takes another 5 mins to walk from here to ferry terminal.

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tenmonkan Mujaki 天文館むじゃき

Visited 24.03.2014

Top left: Tenmokan, busiest district in Kagoshima city; Right: An adorable white bear welcoming you to Mujaki.

After dinner, we made our way this dessert shop which is easily recognized by a huge white bear figurine placed in front of the shop, located along Tenmokan dori. Mujaki originated from Kagoshima an has been a household name for more than half a century. It started off selling a kind of shaved ice dessert. This popular local dessert is named "white bear ice" or Shirokuma (白熊) because the ball shaped shaved ice which is topped with raisins and cherry, looks like an expression of bear when viewed from the top.

The original white bear ice - Shirokuma. 

Japan version of ice kachang? Shop was quite empty on the day of visit; was expecting to see a reasonable crowd during meal time as this shop was quite heavily publicised in travelogues. The variety of shaved ice available here made us spoilt for choice. Ordered two different bowls of shaved ice to share - the top two best selling cold dessert in the shop: the original "white bear ice" and strawberry flavoured "white bear ice". Do note that the shaved ice comes in two sizes: the regular and the "baby (ベビー)" size. Had two regular sizes to share among four persons. Contrary to our ice kachang which has atap seeds, you will find agar, banana, orange and beans at the bottom of the bowl. After filling the bowl with fine, shaved ice, condensed milk and honey are drizzled over it, with final touches of fruit toppings such as orange, peach, banana, strawberry, etc to complete this dessert. The combination makes this a welcoming dessert to cool one down during the hot summer period here in Kyushu.

Strawberry Shirokuma

Looks better than it tastes. Could not resist the hearty bowl of snow like ice with colourful fruits when it was served. However, I didn't find this cold dessert exceptionally good taste wise. I prefer my shaved ice to be finer and melt at the moment I put into my mouth. Milk was fragrant and sweet but diluted by the melting ice overtime. If asked to choose between shaved ice and parfait for dessert, I will choose the latter as I feel that fruits go better with ice cream than shaved ice. If you are unable to make your way to the flagship store at Tenmokan, Mujaki has another branch located at AMU Plaza (Kagoshima Chuo JR Station).

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Tenmonkan Mujaki 天文館むじゃき
〒892-0843  鹿児島市千日町５－８ 天文館むじゃきビル
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2200 hrs
http://mujyaki.co.jp/

How to get there?
From Kagoshima Chuo Ekimae (鹿児島中央駅), take Kagoshima City Tram Route 2 heading for Kagoshima Ekimae (鹿児島駅) and alight at Tenmokan dori (天文館通). Approx 2 - 3 minutes walk away.

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Video: Scroll to 8:55 for 遇约九州's feature on Mujaki. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ichi Nii San Tenmonkan Branch いちにいさん天 文館店

Visited 24.03.2014

First night in Kagoshima. First thing that came to my mind was to find a good restaurant that serves superior kurobuta (black fur pig) that Kagoshima is proud of! Have bought kurobuta from Kagoshima from Isetan in Singapore to savour during steamboat sessions at home and I love the sweetness and tender texture of the meat. Followed the travel guide book - took the electric tram from Kagoshima Chuo to the shopping district of Tenmonkan. Ichi nii san is easily distinguished by this huge symbol of Kurobuta's rear and its short tail with white marking at the end.

Bottom center: Dipped the meat into "soba tsuyu"; Bottom right: yuzu pepper can be added to ponzu sauce.

Kurobuta vs soba. Ordered the shabu shabu set which comes with kurobuta, vegetables, meatballs and buckwheat soba. Kagoshima's kurobuta is raised on sweet potatoes which gives the meat that distinct flavour and sweetness. Ichi nii san selects the belly portion of kurobuta for shabu shabu. Only a few swishes of each thinly sliced of rosy marbled meat in boiling water is required and the mouth watering meat is ready for consumption! Ichi nii san actually originated as a restaurant selling buckwheat soba. Therefore, instead of the usual sesame dipping sauce provided for shabu shabu, Ichi nii san created their very own ponzu sauce, known as "soba tsuyu", to match both the meat and soba. Spicy yuzu pepper and crispy white spring onions (白ねぎ) can be added to the sauce to further elevate the taste of the meat. Was my first time eating shabu shabu this way and I enjoyed my dipping sauce with a huge serving of freshly cut white spring onions. Had a satisfying dinner as the meat did not disappoint at all. Looks like Kagoshima's kurobuta is going to stay on our menu for future steamboat sessions back at home!

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Ichi Nii San Tenmonkan Branch いちにいさん 天文館店
鹿児島市東千石町11-6　そばビル2・3F (2nd & 3rd floor)
Opening hrs: 1130 - 2200 hrs
http://ichiniisan.jp/


Other branches in Kagoshima:

Ichi Nii San Kagoshima AMU Plaza
鹿児島市中央町1番1 アミュプラザ鹿児島5F (5th floor)
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2300 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tenjo Sajiki Cafe 天井桟敷

Visited 22.03.2014

This cafe was added to my list of places to visit after reading Milly's travel book (九州：大人的理想休日) on Kyushu. On a side note, I have been an avid supporter of Milly's travel books even since I came across her book featuring Hokkaido. If you are a fan of cafes, or hope to visit laidback hot spring towns, I will recommend reading her books to gather such related information. All in all, Milly did a very comprehensive write up detailing the sights, sounds and tastes experienced during her travels in Japan.

Tenjo Sajiki is a cafe housed in Kamenoi Bessou (亀の井別荘), a luxurious ryokan in Yufuin. Do note that at night (from 1900 hrs onwards), Tenjo Sajiki is transformed to a bar, named Yamaneko (山猫). This cafe is a good place to drop by after visiting Lake Kirinko, which is about 2 mins walk away.

Cafe is located on the second floor and there was already a short queue formed when we arrived. Had to wait for approx 20 mins before we were led to a table on the attic. The attic could accommodate two tables and has a row of bookshelf. On the main floor, half round tables were arranged to face the windows, allowing diners to enjoy their drinks while admiring the serenity outside. Tenjo Sajiki felt like a western style old school cafe, with waiters dressed in black and white uniforms. For diners seated on the attic, the waiter will place the food and drinks in a box and lift them up using a pulley system. 

Bottom left: Mount Yufu

Ordered some cakes and beverages after we settled down.

• Mount Yufu (500 yen), a signature dessert of this cafe. Cream cheese is molded into a conical shape to depict Mount Yufu. Cream cheese is light and smooth in texture and the rum soaked raisins and fine sugar gave the dessert an additional sweet touch.  
• Apart from that, the cheese cake and fruit cake (500 yen/slice) were all delectable and satisfying. Coffee and tea served by Tenjo Sajiki also met our expectations. Like the way they placed a cover over a teapot to mitigate the heat loss from the tea. Always impressed by how small details are well taken care of in Japan. 

Overall, Tenjo Sajiki offers nice ambience and good food - a cafe that I will come again if I visit Yufuin next time.  

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Tenjo Sajiki 天井桟敷
〒879-5198　大分県由布市湯布院町川上2633-1 
Opening hrs: 0900 - 1800 hrs
http://www.kamenoi-bessou.jp/tenjo.html
Less than 2 mins walk from Lake Kirinko.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Yufuin 湯布院, B Speak

Visited 22.03.2014

Mt Yufu as the backdrop. Left: Yufumi dori (由布見通り); Right: Yu no tsubo road (湯の坪街道)

How to tour Yufuin? Yufuin is a hot spring town surrounded by mountains in Oita Prefecture. The train station is where the exploration of Yufuin town begins. The beautiful Mount Yufu, an iconic natural landmark of Yufuin, comes into sight as soon as you step out of the train station. Hand and foot bath can be found at the first souvenir shop on the left - enjoy a rewarding soak before and after the walking trip. The recommended way to tour Yufuin is to make Kinrinko your pit stop and make a turn from there back to the train station. There are food stalls, bakeries, confectioneries, specialty souvenir shops, cafes, etc that will keep you occupied throughout the journey. As there are no high rise buildings in this rural district, you can enjoy a scenic view of twin peaked mountain wherever you go. Walked along ekimae dori (駅前通り) and Yufumi dori (由布見通り), and turned into Yu no tsubo road (湯の坪街道) when I reached B Speak, a well known confectionery in Yufuin. Depsite spending an entire afternoon here, I still felt that I haven't explore this place enough. 

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Highlights:

Numerous specialty shops

Top left: Nekoyashiki (猫屋敷); Top right: Studio Ghibli products in Dongiri no mori (どんぐりの森); Bottom left: Inuyashiki (犬家敷).

- If you are looking for cats and dogs related merchandises, do head down to Nekoyashiki (猫屋敷) and Inuyashiki (犬家敷) located along Tu no tsubo road. The huge variety of goods depicting these adorable pets are made available here and will definitely make you be spoilt for choice.
- Studio Ghibli fans will be excited to see Totoro waiting at Dongiri no mori (どんぐりの森). This shop is specially dedicated to Studio Ghibli related merchandises. Stood in front of the shelves filled with adorable looking merchandises and I was so tempted to bring one Totoro soft toy home. There is even a miniature bus stop just outside the shop where a huge Totoro plushie waits for the cat bus!

Yufuin Floral Village

- Yufuin Floral Village felt like a fairy tale like town where shops are housed in small little cottages and most of them were selling souvenirs (but not entirely unique to Yufuin). Also found out that this village also comprises of a hotel (only four rooms) with hot spring facilities. There is even a mini park here where visitors can come up close to owls, parrots, ducks, rabbits and squirrels. 

Website: http://floral-village.com/?fbclid=IwAR2KRKJ4U3RUL5CsE6iSgczKSWHk0BctxowK-Ez38WiGqGcoZYNvbqXhQp4

B-Speak's P roll

B-Speak 

大分県由布市湯布院町川上3040-2
Opening hrs: 1000 - 1700 hrs
http://b-speak.net/index.html

Read about this legendary swiss roll (known as P roll) that is only available here in Yufuin before my trip. This swiss roll is made by B Speak, a confectionery shop under the luxurious ryokan - Sansou Murata (山荘無量塔). The same group also owns Tenjo Sajiki Cafe (天井桟敷), which I visited as well during this trip. When I arrived at B Speak in the afternoon (~3 pm), all the swiss rolls (both full and sliced) were already sold out for the day. Was contemplating whether to revisit the shop on the next morning to purchase the sliced form on the spot or to pre-order one full roll for collection on the following day. Decided to go for the latter. On the following morning, I arrived just before the shop was opened for business at 1000 hrs that day and was astonished to see a long queue already formed outside the shop, all eager to grab hold of the limited number of Swiss roll available that day. Glad that I pre-ordered mine and could beat the queue to collect my order without much hassle. 

I have to exclaim that this is one of the best Swiss roll I have ever eaten! Best consume within the same day (and in fact within the next few hours upon purchase), this fluffy sponge cake is very soft in texture, eggy and fragrant. The cream is smooth, not too sweet and complements the cake perfectly. Wanted to savour another slice of P roll while on board Yufuin no mori but it was completely sold out.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春天之旅 - Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉, Shirotamakko 白玉っ子, Doradora どらどら

Visited 21.03.2014, 22.03.2014

Hidden gem. Located in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kurokawa Onsen is a hidden gem that I uncovered during this trip. You will be captivated by its serenity upon arrival. Absence of high rise buildings, only traditional Japanese style houses surrounded by mountains. Chikugo river passes through this small hot spring town, filled with ryokans, eateries and shops. The entire town is fairly small, not too commercialised nor touristy yet, and can be covered within a couple of hours. My advice is don't rush and just your time pass slowly here. A stay in this tranquil town is simply rejuvenating and do wonders to a person's health and mood - stepping out from the hasty pace of life in a growing city. Kurokawa Onsen is a place I miss most from this trip and will surely visit again.

Onsen hopping pass. Otherwise known as Nyuto Tegata (入湯手形) cost 1,300 yen and allows visitors to try out 3 different hot spring bath at any 24 participating ryokans in Kurokawa Onsen. The usage of hot spring facility normally cost between 500 to 600 yen, therefore purchasing this pass is an economical way to try out different rotenburo. Valid for 6 months, this wooden pass can be hung around the neck and will be stamped each time you visit a different bath. Bought one but was not keen in the onsen hopping activity. Brought it back as a souvenir instead.

Top right: Jizoudou, a shrine in Kurokawa Onsen

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Highlights:

Shirotamakko 白玉っ子
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs
https://www.siratamakko.com/

This was the first place we visited after checking in to Ryokan Wakaba. If you are a fan of Japanese glutinous rice balls, this is a cafe to visit to savour their desserts. Served either hot or cold, these colourful balls can be eaten together with soy bean powder or sweet red bean paste. Ordered the seasonal set which comprised of a bowl of matcha, five mochi balls with fragrant tanba kuromame powder (black soybean) and a scoop of strawberry flavoured ice cream - a delectable dessert set to celebrate the arrival of spring!

Left: Shiro Croquette from Warokuya; Right: Mochi dorayaki from Doradora.

Doradora どらどら, located beside Jizoudou (地蔵堂).
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs; Sat, Sun and Public Holidays: 0900 - 1800 hrs
http://kurokawa-kaze.com/index.html

Red bean pancake or dorayaki are commonly found in Japan. In Doradora, a twist was made to this traditional Japanese snack. If you can consume the food on the spot, sandwich a scoop of ice-cream between the pancakes and red bean paste. I bought one that was pre-packed - pancake surface was stamped with a picture similar to the one on the wooden onsen hopping pass, and ice-cream was replaced with mochi, but only ate it after departure from Kurokawa Onsen. What caught me by surprise was that the mochi was stuffed with sweet cream too. The various layers blended well harmoniously together with every bite: the eggy pancake, crunchy red bean paste, chewy mochi and smooth cream filling! How I wish I could have bought a few more pieces! 

Top left: the very popular Patisserie Roku; Top right: Completed onsen hopping pass hung outside Jizoudou.

... and more food! 

Explored Kurokawa Onsen again after breakfast. Did a leisure stroll along the onsen street, stopping by shops to look for unique souvenirs and food stalls to grab a quick snack. In one morning (despite after breakfast), we had fragrant and flavoured rice crackers, honey soft serve and Kumamoto pork croquette (from Warokuya わろく屋). Saw a small crowd at a confectionery - Patisserie Roku, which is famous for their Swiss roll. Squeezed into the shop but left empty handed because Swiss roll here were not sold in slices. After trying out the delicious Swiss roll from the extremely popular B Speak confectionary in Yufuin on the following day, I was already thinking how good Patisserie Roku's would turn out to be...

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Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉
黒川温泉観光旅館協同組合 インフォメーションセンター
〒869-2402 熊本県阿蘇郡南小国町黒川さくら通り
http://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/

How to get there?

By bus: Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. Utiltised this bus service from Mt Aso West Station to visit Kurokawa Onsen. On the following day, I took the same bus from Kurokawa Onsen to Yufuin.

• Kumamoto > Aso JR Station > Kurokawa Onsen > Yufuin > Beppu:http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt1.pdf
• Beppu > Yufuin > Kurokawa Onsen > Aso JR Station > Kumamoto: http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt2.pdf

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Video: Scroll to 20:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Kurokawa Onsen. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Okada Coffee 岡田珈琲

Visited 20.03.2014

In actual fact, this is not my first time to Okada Coffee because I have been to its branch in Singapore, which has been around quite some time ago. Had their high tea set and signature Mont Blanc cake on several visits and I am quite pleased with the food so far. Told myself I have to pay this cafe a visit if I ever come to Kumamoto next time. Originated in 1945, Okada Coffee has been around in Kumamoto for 70 years and has established several branches within this prefecture as well.

Came to the main branch located in Kami Tori after dinner. A two storey shop house - first floor sells a variety of coffee beans, sweets and biscuits while the cafe is located on the second floor. Took the counter seats as the rest of the tables in the cafe were occupied. Despite the small space, wooden furnishings, dimmed lighting and usage of English style tableware, created a nostalgic and cosy atmosphere for diners.

Taste test. Ordered a slice of roll cake and Mont Blanc cake, accompanied with coffee and tea. Mont Blanc cake did not disappoint at all - crispy base topped with fragrant chestnut mousse and filling. In terms of taste, I find it quite similar to what they offered in Singapore. Roll cake was moist, wrapped with sweet and smooth chestnut cream - a perfect dessert to go with coffee/tea. Overall, this was on par with the Singapore's branch though I was actually expecting more from this visit. Nevertheless, still glad to know that the quality of food & beverages are not compromised in their overseas branches.

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Okada Coffee (Kami Tori Main Branch) 岡田珈琲 (上通本店)
〒860-0845 熊本市上通り1-20
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs
http://www.okada-coffee.com/

How to get there?
Take Kumamoto Streetcar (Route A from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Torichosuji 通町筋. Look out for Kami Tori covered walkway and Okada Coffee is the second shop on the left.

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Okada Coffee Singapore Branch
100 Tras St, 100 AM building (Shopping complex connected to Amara Hotel), #03-23.
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2200 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Keika Ramen 桂花ラメん

Visited 20.03.2014

My impression of ramen was changed totally after eating Ichiran ramen in Hakata. Finally I've finally found one that suit my taste in Japan. In Kumamoto, a slightly different type of ramen is served. Similar to Hakata style, pork broth is used as the soup base. What is unique about Kumamoto ramen is fried garlic is infused into the milky pork broth to elevate its rich flavour. 

Decided to indulge in the local ramen on my first night in Kumamoto. Keika Ramen is a local brand that has been around for more than half a decade and has opened several branches in Kumamoto, Fukuoka and Tokyo. Got to know later that they have ventured overseas, with three shops established in Singapore too. On this night, we visited the main shop located in Hanabatacho 花畑町. 

A hearty bowl of Kumamoto ramen.

Ordered their original ramen and a plate of gyoza. The fragrance of fried garlic immediately hit me when my bowl of noodles was arrived. Thick noodles was used and was served together with a few slices of char siew, bamboo shoots, shallots and a half egg (not the usual soft boiled egg). Rich and milky white pork broth was mixed with fried garlic oil, turning the soup slightly golden brown in colour. The first sip of soup did hit the right spot as I am a fan of garlic. However, felt that the soup base was still on the saltier side for me. Nevertheless, this is still a good hearty bowl of ramen to satisfy a hungry stomach. Gyozas was wrapped with juicy meat fillings and so far (at least for me), this side dish has never failed to make the entire meal complete. 

I have also patronised Keika Ramen in Singapore (branch in Takashimaya) on a later date. Was hoping that the flavours could be replicated here (with the saltiness reduced to suit Singaporeans' tastebuds?), but I felt the fried garlic flavor was lacking in the soup and that was to me the most important element behind its delicious taste.   

Keika Ramen in Singapore: http://keika-raumen.co.jp/shop_kaigai.html#kaigai2

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Keika Ramen (Kumamoto Main Branch) 桂花ラメん 熊本県本店
熊本市中央区花畑町11-9　K-1ビル
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2400 hrs (Mon - Thu); 1100 - 0145 hrs (Fri, Sat); 1100 - 2000 hrs (Sun)
http://keika-raumen.co.jp/

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Attic アティック, Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－

Visited 20.03.2014

Left: Turkish rice

Turkish rice? As much as possible I will search for unique and famous gourmet originated from that particular area I am visiting. In Nagasaki Precfecture, the top three food on my list were Sasebo's burger, Champon noodles (or Chinese cuisine) and Castella cake. There is one more food which has an intriguing name, called Turkish rice. This dish totally aroused my curiosity because I could not relate Turkey to Nagasaki at all. 

Fusion yet separate entities. Made up of three components: fired pork cutlet (and fried ebi sometimes), Neapolitan spaghetti and saffron rice topped with curry. Despite the name, this dish did not originate from Turkey. I have read various stories explaining the origin of this name. When this dish was first introduced, it only has saffron rice, which is a Turish style of cooking. The side dishes (pork cutlet and spaghetti) were included on one fine day after patrons demanded more variety to be added to this dish. This expanded combination was well-received by locals and later became one of Nagasaki's signature gourmet. 

Enjoy the scenic view from Dejima Wharf; Background: Mt Inasa

Dropped by Dejima Wharf, our last stop in Nagasaki. Opened in 2000, Dejima Wharf is made up of a row of two storey shop houses with about 20 restaurants and shops. So happened to spot this restaurant, Attic, which served this local specialty. Decided to give it a try since it was time for lunch too. Serving was big making it quite worth the bucks, but the taste were not very impressive. It looks like food that will appear on my buffet plate (mixture of noodles and rice). Saffron rice, Neapolitan sauce and curry sauce, all have strong flavours and did not blend well together on a single plate. Not quite sure what is the rave behind this dish but I'm pretty sure this place did not serve the best Turkish rice in Nagasaki. Can only hope to taste this dish again from a different restaurant if I ever visit this city again. 

Anyone has a better recommendation?

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Attic アティック   
長崎県長崎市出島町1-1 長崎出島ワーフ1F美術館側
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2300 hrs (Fri & Sat - open till 2330 hrs)
http://attic-coffee.com/

Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－
長崎市出島1-1-109
http://dejimawharf.com/

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How to get there?
(1) By Streetcar - Take line 1 and alight at Dejima. Less than 2 mins walk from streetcar stop.

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Video: Dejima Wharf and Attic were featured in 遇约九州, a Taiwan produced travel program promoting Kyushu. Scroll to 27:12 on their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Shikairou 四海楼

Visited 19.03.2014

Chinese food in Japan? One food I was eager to eat was "Champon", a type of noodle soup which is well known in Nagasaki. Despite staying just across Chinatown where there are many restaurants offering this signature food in their menu, I decided to travel two streetcar stations to patronise Shikairou instead. Reason being "Champon" was created by the boss of Shikairou - Chen Shun Ping (陈顺平). Story goes all the way back to Meiji period. Chen Shun Ping created this huge serving of noodles specially for poor Chinese students in Japan. The name "Champon" came from the Hokkien phrase "吃饭" (pronounced as chak-ben) which means "eat food". No one would have expected that this kind act would elevate this bowl of noodles to become a specialty of Nagasaki.

Shikairou is a stand-alone five storey building and the exterior reminded me of some Chinese historical monuments. Bronze statues of two deities, Thousand Miles Eyes (千里眼) and Follow Wind Ears (顺风耳), were placed on both sides of the entrance. Dragon, an auspicious character to Chinese, are craved on stones and displayed on the central stairway. Took the elevator to fifth storey where the main restaurant is located. Restaurant also offers a panoramic view of Inasayama through the tall glass panels. Despite this being my first time eating Chinese food in Japan, Shikairou felt like any high end Chinese restaurant I have patronised before. From the delicate porcelain tableware imprinted with dragons, familiar Chinese characters on menu to traditional Chinese tea, the entire place was infused with Chinese style elements.

Ordered the couple of dishes to try:
(1) Champon noodles (ちゃんぽん)
- Was stunned by the close-to-overflow bowl of noodles when it was served. Milky broth is cooked using chicken bone and pork bone. Rich flavours of the soup is absorbed by the yellow noodles. Other ingredients such as squid, prawns, vegetables, fish cake and shredded egg are added on top to complete this bowl of Champon. This is what a good stomach filling bowl of noodles should be!

(2) Fried rice with corn soup
- Average, was expecting more wok hei fragrance in the fried rice.

(3) Pork belly bun
- The famous and familiar pork belly bun (扣肉包) is known as 角煮 here. Was surprised that their bun is as good as what we get here in a local Chinese restaurant. Meat was tender braised, and the fatty portion of the meat melts in your mouth. This is my favourite dish out of the three ordered.

Do you know? There is a fast food restaurant in Japan, named Ringer Hut, that serves Champon noodles. First established in Nagasaki, Ringer Hut's business has expanded other areas in Japan as well. Though I have spotted several of their outlets during my trips in Japan but have not try it yet.
Website: http://www.ringerhut.jp/

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Shikairou 四海楼
〒850-0921 長崎県長崎市松が枝町4-5
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500, 1700 - 2100 hrs
http://www.shikairou.com/

How to get there? 
(1) By Streetcar - From Nagasaki JR Station, take line 1 and transfer to line 5 at Tsukimachi (築町). Alight at Oura Tenshudo Shita (大浦天主堂下).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Lucky's Burger ラッキーズ鹿子前店

Visited 19.03.2014

US Fleet Activities Sasebo was established here in 1950s. The fashion of eating burgers was also gradually developed, and the initial intent was to provide comfort food to the people serving the naval base here. Quite different from the conventional fast food centres, the burgers here are made upon order and packed with hefty ingredients. From then now, many such restaurants surfaced, offering a good variety of burgers. A Sasebo burger association was also set up to promote this unexpectedly popular gourmet food in the city- a stand bearing this "Burger Boy" mascot will be placed outside these restaurants. Currently, there are about 20 restaurants within this association. 

Sasebo Burger: http://www.sasebo99.com/restaurant/?cate_m=30Tip: Do pick up a Sasebo Burger Map from the Tourist Information Center located within Sasebo JR Station.

Visited Lucky's which is located in Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort. Interior looks like any other fast food restaurant and the usage of blue, red and white colours added a tinge of American flavour. Lucky's offers a standard menu of burgers - beef, chicken, fish and bacon as the main meat ingredient, together with cheese, egg, vegetables and sauces stuffed between two toasted buns. Ordered their signature bacon & egg burger (standard size). Totally awed by the first bite - impressed by how the different flavours of meat, egg, vegetables and mayonnaise sauce, blended harmoniously together in one small simple burger. This is how a good burger should taste like! If you plan to visit Pearl Sea Pearl, I will recommend to pay this restaurant a visit. Definitely one of the food that I will reminisce about when I think of Kyushu. 

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Lucky's Burger ラッキーズ鹿子前店
長崎県佐世保市鹿子前町1055 九十九島パールシーリゾート内
http://www.lucky-group.co.jp/luckys/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2000 hrs

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Other options:

(1) Log Kit ログキット
Their main shop is located at Yatake-cho (矢岳町). Later found out that there is a smaller branch located strategically within Sasebo JR Station. Almost wanted to grab one but had to rush to board the next train.

Log Kit Sasebo JR Station Branch ログキット 佐世保駅店
佐世保市三浦町21-2 JR佐世保駅
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2000 hrs
http://logkit.jp/

(2) Hikari ヒカリ 
Another famous brand in Sasebo, this restaurant is located side by side to Log Kit at Yatake-cho. Fortunately, they have opened another branch in Sasebo Goban Gai 佐世保五番街, a shopping complex which is near Sasebo JR Station.

Hikari Sasebo Goban Gai Branch ヒカリ 佐世保五番街
佐世保市新港町3-1
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs
http://hikari-burger.com/


Log Kit + Hikari Main Shop (Yatake-cho)
佐世保市矢岳町１－１
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs (Log Kit); 1000 - 2000 hrs (Hikari)
Take a local bus from the bus terminal outside the east exit of train station and alight at "Motomachi, Shilitsusogo Byooin Mae 元町・市立総合病院前". Approx 2 mins walk from bus stop.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Soan Yokocho 宗庵 よこ長

Visited 17.03.2014

Ureshino Onsen's gourmet food: Tofu soup, otherwise known as onsen yudofu, is a specialty of Ureshino Onsen. In this small onsen town, beancurd is boiled slowly in Ureshino's very own hot spring water. After a while, the water will turn milky and beancurd becomes more silky in texture. Why? The hot spring water causes the proteins in the tofu to dissolve and gives rise to the change in colour of water - a phenomenon which we normally do not see if this is boiled in water.

Due to the popularity of onsen yudofu, many restaurants here are offering this specialty dish on their menu. Came to Soan Yokocho, which is by far the most widely publicized restaurant (at least I have seen it being featured on tv programs a couple of times). English menu was also available in the shop.

Special yudofu set lunch

Ordered two different set meals, each set comes with rice, pickles and side dishes:
- Normal set (湯どうふ定食): 790 yen (*850 yen after 1 Apr 2014)
- Special set (特選湯どうふ定食): 990 yen (*1,080 yen after 1 Apr 2014), which comes with seafood (salmon and prawn) in the soup.

Delicious!

Thought the soup was going to be bland on the first look. However, with vegetables and seafood simmered together in the soup and the additional touch of soybean flavour which was introduced as the beancurd gradually "melted" during the cooking process, all these elements combined to make this soup exceptionally tasty. The beancurd became silkier in texture, well-balanced between firm and soft. Every sip of the soup comes with a sense of satisfaction and exclamation on how a simple soup dish can be so fulfilling! Definitely a must try gourmet food for anyone who comes to Ureshino Onsen.

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Soan Yokocho 宗庵 よこ長
〒843-0301 佐賀県嬉野市嬉野町下宿乙2190
http://yococho.com/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs (Closed on Wed)
~5 mins walk from Ureshino Onsen Bus Terminal.

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Video: Restaurant was featured in 遇约九州, a travel programme on Kyushu. Scroll to 3:50 for their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Takeo Onsen JR Station 武雄温泉駅 , Kairodo Saga Beef Sukiyaki Bento 佐賀牛すき焼き弁当

Takeo Onsen JR Station, along Sasebo line.

The following limited express trains stop at this station:
(1) Limited Express Midori train, commutes between Hakata & Sasebo.
(2) Limited Express Huis Ten Bosch train, commutes between Hakata & Huis Ten Bosch.
Time taken to travel from Hakata to Takeo Onsen is ~70 mins.

This train station will also become part of Kyushu Shinkansen - West Kyushu route, which is currently under construction. West Kyushu route will run from Takeo Onsen to Nagasaki, passing by Ureshino Onsen, Omura and Isahaya. However, service is expected to start only from 2023 onwards.

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Remember...

Apart from Ureshino Onsen, the other fond memory I had of Saga Prefecture was its beef ekiben! Sold by the cafe "Kairo-do" located within Takeo Station JR Station, this "Saga Beef Sukiyaki Bento (佐賀牛すき焼き弁当)" has been voted the best in Kyushu for two consecutive years in 2012 and 2013.
Saga has always been well known for its high quality marbled beef. But what surprised me was A5 grade beef, the highest standard among all, is utilised for this ekiben! Be overwhelmed by the sweet fragrant sukiyaki sauce when you unveiled the packaging. Well-marinated meat is laid over rice, which is already infused with the rich flavours of both the sauce and beef. Tender and juicy beef is so appetising that makes one yearn for more!

Priced at 1,300 yen (~15 SGD), this ekiben is definitely worth a try!

Kairodo (カイロ堂)'s website: http://kairodo.com/

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What's nearby? 

(1) Tourist Information Center, located within the train station.

(2) Takeo Onsen, a hot spring town which traces its history almost 12 centuries back, is about 15 mins walk away from the train station. Will want to explore Takeo Onsen and Takeo city on my next trip.

Clear directions to bus stop for Ureshino line JR Bus.

(3) JR Bus for Ureshino Onsen
Bus fee = 660 yen
Follow directions to the bus stop and board the Ureshino line (嬉野線) JR Bus heading for Ureshino Onsen. 30 mins to hourly bus interval and the time taken to Ureshino Onsen Bus Terminal is about 30 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.jrkbus.co.jp/rosen_map/ureshino_route01.html

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tetsunabe 鉄なべ

Visited 16.03.2014

Tetsunabe started off as an Izakaya and became well-known for their pan fried dumplings or yaki gyoza. So far, most of the gyoza I had was during visits to ramen shop, typically ordered as side-dishes. What makes their gyoza stand out from the conventional ones?
(1) These handmade gyoza are smaller than usual, which means each gyoza fits one mouth nicely.
(2) They served in the piping hot iron pan, right off the stove.

Wanted to visit the main shop which is located near Gion subway station. Later found out that they have a smaller branch in Fukuoka Parco, which is easily accessible via Tenjin's underground shopping street. [Note: Could not locate any information on this branch from Fukuoka Parco and Tetsunabe main page. Branch may have closed down, therefore will be safer to patronise the main shop.]

Ordered a 10 + 6 pieces pan fried gyoza and 7 pieces gyoza in soup. Skin of the pan-fried gyoza was thin and crispy, sealing the juicy meat and cabbage fillings - simply irresistible! Their secret ponzu sauce elevates the flavours of the delicious gyoza further. Would recommend the pan fried version more than the ones in soup. Apart from gyozas, other popular dishes that Tetsunabe has to offer include stewed chicken wings and potato salad. Simple yet delicious, this is a local delicacy not to be missed when you visit Fukuoka.

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Tetsunabe Main Shop 鉄なべ

http://www.tetsunabe.co.jp/
3 mins walk from Gion Subway Station Exit 5.
Opening hrs: 1700 - 0000 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Motoyoshiya 吉本屋

Visited 16.03.2014

Spot the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent!

After an enjoyable tea break at River Flow (リバーフロー 紅茶の店), we decided to walk back to Yanagawa train station and along the way, we would stop by Motoyoshiya for steamed eel rice. Thought we could avoid the lunch hour queue, but at 2 pm in the afternoon there were four to five groups of guests standing in front of this two storey tall, traditional Japanese style house. Got to see the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent where the aroma of grilled eel is continuously being sucked out from the kitchen and introduced to the environment, luring patrons to this restaurant. Had to wait for about half an hour before seats were available. Sat down comfortably on the tatami mats and ordered a grilled eel set each.

Secret sauce. Yanagawa is famous for unagi no seiro mushi (鰻の蒸籠蒸), which is essentially grilled eel put on rice and steamed. There are numerous restaurant here offering this famous traditional dish and Motoyoshiya has been around for more than 300 years! Eel is dipped into its secret sauce and is grilled to golden brown. Next, the grilled eel is put on top of the rice and steamed twice in a bamboo basket. The dish is garnished with shredded egg just before served. One thing that I always hope for when eating eel is that the fine bones are removed cleanly from the meat. Motoyoshiya did quite a good job in this, at least I was not pricked by any bones during the course of eating. Though the meat is tender, I found the meat slightly charred to my liking. What I like most about this dish was its fragrant rice which is soaked up with the light, savoury sauce during the steaming process. Every mouthful of rice was so satisfying to my tastebuds and I gobbled up the entire portion of rice within minutes! Though I am not a big fan of eel, I will still recommend to give this dish a try. I will definitely eat this again for the sake of its secret sauce and rice.  

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Motoyoshiya 吉本屋
福岡県柳川市旭町69
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2100 hrs
Approx 12 mins walk from Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station.