Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kumamon Square くまモンスクエア

Visited 26.03.2014

Meet him in person! Have introduced this adorable mascot of Kumamoto in an earlier post - how popular he has become since he came into the scene in 2011. Had the chance to stay in a Kumamon themed room for two nights (in Mitsui Green Hotel) but nothing beats meeting Kumamon in person! Touted as the most successful ambassador of Kumamoto, his popularity has earned him an "office" in the heart of Kumamoto city. Kumamon Square acts as both a tourist visitor center and local community hall where the goodness of Kumamoto are being promoted here. Kumamon returns to his office occasionally to interact with his supporters and show off his amazingly agile dance movements! 

Also last minute. Slotted this attraction in last minute. Found out that Kumamon will be in his office on the day (at 1500 hrs) when we return to Kumamoto to collect our luggage before heading northwards to Hakata. Gave up the intention to visit Kumamoto Castle again to witness the blooming cherry blossom flowers (was not full bloom a few days ago) and decided to made our way to Kumamon Square shortly after lunch to finally meet this cuddly bear in person. 

Mini theme park. Kumamon Square is situated on the first floor of Tsuruya Departmental Store. Reached ahead of the performance timing by about 15 mins to secure a good spot. A decent crowd started to swarm in to occupy the entire hall as the time drew closer and staffs stopped more visitors from coming in when it was almost full house. Could only scan through the entire compound since we were unable to move around freely among the crowd. Kumamon Square is like a mini Kumamon theme park. His office door was closed and a window blind, which has a picture of him sleeping, was drawn down. Was expecting Kumamon to swing open the door and appear from his office; eventually he entered from main entrance of Kumamon Square. A black letter box (with Kumamon's face on it) was placed outside his office for visitors to drop him notes or letters. A section was dedicated to the sale of Kumamon's merchandises - postcards, stationery, plushies, snacks and tableware, which were created exclusively for Kumamon Square. Did notice that there is a snack counter selling soft serves and drinks too. 

Kumamoto Idol. When Kumamon appeared punctually at 1500 hrs, all the audience of all ages were exhilarated. Kumamon couldn't speak and had to rely on his co host to convey his thoughts; but he was a natural performer - every action he made never fails to tickle everyone on the ground. Every now and then, he will come down from the stage to shake hands with the audience and hug the children seated on the front row. During one segment, his co host asked where the audience came from to see him and I was surprised to see most came from other parts of Japan, some as far as Hokkaido! We were the only foreigners in the group. Raised my hand frantically and exclaimed I came from Singapore to meet him. And of course Kumamon gave a shocked look by means of action and bowed to us to express his gratitude. Had to leave in the middle of the performance to collect our luggage from the hotel and head for the train station. A short yet memorable encounter with the idol of Kumamoto! 

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Kumamon Square くまモンスクエア
〒860-0808 熊本市中央区手取本町8番2号 テトリアくまもとビル 1階
Opening hrs: 1000 - 1900 hrs
Fee admission.
Note: To meet Kumamon in person, do check out his schedule on the official website. 

http://www.kumamon-sq.jp/en/

How to get there? 
Take Kumamoto City Tram (A line from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Suidocho 水道町. Kumamon Square is located on the first level of Tsuruya Departmental Store East Building (東館).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kourantei 紅蘭亭 下通本店

Visited 26.03.2014 

What is Taipien? A modified version of Nagasaki's famous Champon noodles, known as Taipien (太平燕), is found in Kumamoto. Origin of this local gourmet food can be trace back to a century ago - a soup dish brought to Kumamoto by Chinese immigrants from Fujian Province in China. Similar to Champon, the rich broth is cooked using both chicken and pork bone but is less milky in comparison. Yellow noodles is replaced with vermicelli, topped with a fried boiled egg, plenty of vegetables, shrimps, squids and sliced pork. I prefer Taipien to Champon because it is lighter in flavour and I like vermicelli more than noodles. Rushed to have a bowl of Taipien just before I left Kumamoto at Kourantei (紅蘭亭), an established Chinese restaurant founded in 1934. Came to their flagship store at Shimo Tori (下通). 

Excellent Chinese food. During this trip in Kyushu, I patronised two Chinese restaurants without high expectations of the food quality delivered. The delicious stewed pork belly buns I had in Shihairou (四海楼) changed my impression of Chinese food in Japan. This pleasant experience gave me the assurance that Chinese food in Japan isn't as bad as I thought. At Kourantei, we decided to try out a 6 course meal (円卓料理) inclusive of Taipien. It was impressive and some of the dishes were even better than what I have eaten before in my life! The 6 course meal includes meat dumplings (quite similar to siew mai), a hearty bowl of Taipien, prawns cooked in chili sauce, sweet and sour pork, fried rice and Annin tofu (杏仁豆腐) as dessert. Apart from Taipien, I felt that there were two dishes which stood out from the rest - sweet and sour pork and almond pudding.   

- Sweet and sour pork. We were all stunned by how good this dish turned out to be. Meat was fried to perfection - crispy on the outside while retaining the moisture in the meat. Every piece of meat was well coated with the savory and appetising sauce, accompanied with "wok hei" fragrance! All agreed that this dish was the highlight of the entire course.

- Annin tofu. I have to say this was an excellent finale to complete the meal. Kourantei's version of apricot kernel pudding was very smooth in texture and melt in the mouth - a sensation I have never experienced before with this traditional Chinese dessert!

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Kourantei 紅蘭亭 下通本店
熊本市中央区安政町5-26 2F
Opening hrs: 1130 - 2130 hrs
http://www.kourantei.com/

How to get there?
Take Kumamoto City Tram (A line from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Torichosuji 通町筋. Walk for another 3 - 4 minutes along Shimo Tori covered walkway.



Note: Kourantei has another branch located along Kami Tori (上通).
Kourantei Kami Tori Pavilion 紅蘭亭上通パビリオン店
熊本市中央区上通町1-15
Opening hrs: 1130 - 2130 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 12 & 13 Itinerary: Kagoshima 鹿児島, Kumamoto 熊本, Fukuoka 福岡

Day 12: 26.03.2014
* Day 5 of 5 Day JR Kyushu Rail Pass

Ohori Park

Breakfast: Tsukimiso 旅館月見荘

Tsukimiso 旅館月見荘 > Ibusuki JR Station 指宿駅
by hotel free shuttle service.

Ibusuki JR Station 指宿駅 (0901 hrs) > Kagoshima Chuo JR Station 鹿児島中央駅 (1020 hrs)
by local train.

Visited Kotsuri River 甲突川.

Kagoshima chuo JR Station 鹿児島中央駅 (1110 hrs) > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1206 hrs)
by Sakura 552.

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Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前 > Torichosuji 通町筋
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Lunch: Kourantei 紅蘭亭, at Shimo Tori.

Visited Kumamon Square くまモンスクエア, at Tsuruya.
Watched Kumamon's performance @ 1500 hrs.

Suidocho 水道町 > Karashimacho 辛島町,
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Collect luggage from Mitsui Garden Hotel.

Mitsui Green Hotel > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅
by taxi.

Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1559 hrs) > Hakata JR Station 博多駅 (1637 hrs)
by Sakura 562.

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Check in: JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo JR九州ホテル ブラッサム博多中央

Bought 1 day Fukuoka City Subway Pass. Fee = 600 yen.
* 500 yen on weekends & Public Holidays, 600 yen on weekdays.[520 yen & 620 yen from Apr 2014 onwards] 


Hakata 博多 > Ohori Park 大濠公園
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line (orange line).

Visited Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園.

Ohori Park 大濠公園 > Tenjin 天神
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line.

Shopping @ Daimaru.

Tenjin 天神 > Hakata 博多
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line.

Shopping @ Tokyu Hands.

Dinner: Yoshinoya, branch @ Hakata JR Chikusi Exit.

- End of Day 12 -

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Day 13: 27.03.2014

Breakfast: Dotour Coffee, branch @ Hakata subway station.

Hakata > Fukuoka Airport
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line. Fee = 250 yen.

Fukuoka Domestic Airport > FUK
by free airport shuttle bus.

FUK (1000 hrs) > SIN T2 (1535 hrs)
by SQ 655

- End of Kyushu Spring 2014 Trip -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Isaburou 伊三郎, Okoba JR Station 大畑駅, Yatake JR Station 矢岳駅, Masaki JR Station 真幸駅

Travelled 24.03.2014

There are two round trips per day. For this trip, I boarded Isaburo 3 which departs from Hitoyoshi JR Station at 1321 hrs and arrived at Yoshimatsu JR Station at 1447 hrs. This is one of the 3 sightseeing trains that I took to travel from Kumamoto to Kagoshima.
Do check out the train operating schedule on JR Kyushu website: http://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/trains/isaburou_shinpei/

• Isaburo 1 and 3: Hitoyoshi > Yoshimatsu
• Shinpei 2 and 4: Yoshimatsu > Hitoyoshi

Origin. Train is named after Yamagata Isaburou (山縣伊三郎) and Gotou Shinpei (後藤新平), two prominent figures who have contributed greatly to railway development during Meiji period.

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Highlights: 

Features & facilities. The distinctive red exterior makes the train looked bright and stunning under sunlight. Wood is used as the core material to create a warm and cosy atmosphere internally. Seats are arranged in groups of four with pairs facing each other, suitable for passengers travelling in group of 3 to 4 people. Made up of only two carriages, there is no counter selling food in the train. However, cabin attendant will push a cart which carries train related merchandises, some light snacks and drinks along the aisle during the train journey.  

Charm. Hisatsu line (肥薩線) runs through three prefectures - Kumamoto, Miyazaki and Kagoshima and has been around for more than a century. Despite full commissioning of Kyushu Shinkansen (Hakata to Kagoshima) in 2011, Hisatsu line continues to be in operation to serve the remote areas. Introduction of sightseeing trains (SL Hitoyoshi, Isaburou/Shinpei and Hayato no kaze) has instead, attracted many visitors to embark on a longer journey between Kumamoto and Kagoshima. In an era where efficiency is of utmost importance, hopping onto such local train is one form of escapism for city dwellers, to enjoy a slower pace of life.

Between Hitoyoshi and Yoshimatsu, the train makes a brief stop (5 to 10 mins) at all intermediate railway stations.

Bottom right: Look how high the train has ascended to after Okoba JR Station.

• Okoba JR Station (大畑駅). Many will make their way into the unmanned train station to pin their business card onto the wall. This is deemed as an action to acquire good luck. 
• Experienced the one and only loop line & switch back mode of operation in Japan after Okoba JR Station. The train will make switch back and cruise along a loop line to ascend a steeper gradient. After the train has overcome the elevation, do look out and down from the train windows to discover how high the train has ascended from Okoba JR Station.

• Yatake JR Station (矢岳駅). A D51 steam locomotive is put on display in a warehouse just beside the train station. This model of steam locomotive was first introduced in 1923 and almost all have retired from service. The only one that is still in operation (on special occasions) can be found in Gumma prefecture. (D51 498 owned by JR East: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/d51.html)

View overlooking Kirishima mountain range & Ebino Plateau is voted as one of top 3 in Japan.

• Moment that all passengers looked forward to on board this train. After Yatake JR Station, do pay attention to the announcement made and find a good window seat on the left side of the train. Look out of the window as the train reduces its speed of travel and the scenery that appears right in front of your eyes is voted as one of top three best train views in Japan. On a good and clear day, a picturesque view of Kirishima Mountains and Ebino Plateau can be captured through the window frame.

• Masaki JR Station (真幸駅). This is the only train station along Hisatsu line that is located in Miyazaki prefecture. What makes this train station special is its auspicious name "真幸" which means true happiness. Most passengers will alight and rush to sound this bell that is located on the platform, deemed as an act to wish for true happiness, analogous to its name. After this station, the train will perform a switch back operation again and make its way to the last station of this journey - Yoshimatsu JR Station.

Photo taking and commemorative boarding pass. Passengers can also borrow this commemorative panel which states the day of travel and also cabin attendant's hats for photo taking purposes. Don't forget to grab a commemorative boarding pass with inked stamp while on board the train.

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Video: Scroll to 41:20 for 遇约九州's feature on Isaburo/Shinpei.


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Commemorative boarding pass & stamp: 

Okoba JR Station

Yatake JR Station

Masaki JR Station

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hitoyoshi JR Station 人吉駅, Aoi Aso Shrine 青井阿蘇神社

Top left: Karakuri Clock; Bottom right: Very delicious chestnut rice ekiben.

Hitoyoshi JR Station, on Hisastu line.

Chestnut rice ekiben. This is the terminus station for two sightseeing trains - SL Hitoyoshi train and Isaburo/Shinpei. When the train pulled into the station, do pay attention to a person exclaiming "ekiben" loudly outside. Look out for an well groomed uncle supporting a huge box filled with ekibens (train bento boxes), held on a strap slung over his shoulders. Two of the most popular ekibens that are on sale here are ayu (sweetfish) sushi and chestnut rice. Bought the latter to try and I like it a lot. Rice is covered with huge and sweet chestnuts, accompanied with lotus root, tamago, prawn, fish and konjaku, all packed into a unique chestnut shapped container. So far, this is one of the best ekiben I have eaten before in Japan.

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What's nearby?

(1) Karakuri Clock からくり時計, located just in front of the train station.
This clock that takes on the form of a miniature Hitoyoshi Castle and comes into life every hour. Apparently, there is a story behind this clock... On the ground level of the castle, the windows revealed a group of drum players dancing to a folk song and the feudal lord disguised himself as a commoner to explore Hitoyoshi. Middle level showcased attractions which were visited/experienced by the feudal lord - such as Hitoyoshi Onsen and Kuma Shouchu, Lastly, the feudal lord, dressed back in his costume, reappeared at the top of the castle, looking pleased and overlooking at the town below. The duration of each performance is about 3 minutes.
Website (in Japanese): http://www.city.hitoyoshi.lg.jp/q/aview/186/1343.html

(2) Aoi Aso Shrine 青井阿蘇神社, approx 5 mins walk from the train station.
Had an hour to spare before Isaburo departs from the train station. Spoke to the staff at the tourist information center and she recommended Aoi Aso Shrine, one of the nearest attraction from the train station. This shinto shrine has a rich history of more than 1,200 years (founded in 806) and has been accredited as a national treasure in 2008. It has become rarer to see buildings with thatched roof in this era. However, such traditional and dwindling technique is still being well preserved and utilised in the construction/maintenance of this shrine. Do take a closer look at the elaborate architecture details showcased at different parts of the shrine. There is an inari shrine within the same compound, which is easily recognisable by the numerous vermilion torii that leads from the entrance to the main hall. This is also the first time I see cone shaped structures which were used to tie the divination slips to. In front of the shrine, there is a canal where cherry blossoms trees are planted along its sides - making this a good spot to come to during spring.
Website (in Japanese): http://www.aoisan.jp/

(3) Hitoyoshi Onsen 人吉温泉

Hitoyoshi is actually a hot spring town. Did contemplate to spend a night in a ryokan here during itinerary planning. Had to give up the idea due to time constraint. This is yet another item which was put into my follow up list for my next trip to Kyushu.
Website (in Japanese): http://hitoyoshionsen.net/



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Commemorative stamps:

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Video: Scroll to 32:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Kakuri Clock and Aoi Aso Shrine. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - SL Hitoyoshi SL人吉, Isshouchi JR Station 一勝地駅

Travelled on 24.03.2014

SL Hitoyoshi at Yatsushiro JR Station, the terminus station of Hisatsu line.

There is one round trip per day when the train is in operation. For my trip, I boarded SL Hitoyoshi which departed from Kumamoto JR Station at 0945 hrs and reached Hitoyoshi JR Station at 1213 hrs. This is one of the 3 sightseeing trains I took to travel from Kumamoto to Kagoshima (the other two being Isaburo and Hayato no kaze). Do check out the latest train operating schedule on JR Kyushu website: https://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/trains/slhitoyoshi/

Highlights:

My first! Steam locomotive driven trains have undergone revival and are commonly utilized as sightseeing trains in various parts of Japan. By right, my first SL train ride experience should be in Hokkaido, on board SL Fuyu no Shitsugen, about a year ago. Unfortunately, the steam locomotive was out for maintenance during the day of my travel and was replaced with diesel locomotive. Therefore, SL Hitoyoshi is officially my first steam locomotive train ride in Japan. Was relieved when I was able to reserve tickets for this popular sightseeing train.  

Features & facilities. Lavish interior created using wood, patterned fabric and leather sofa seats - a chic ambience can be felt immediately upon stepping into the train. Great level of details were displayed at different parts of the train  - from the dividers and curtains with the number "86" on it (because the train number is 58654), different type of wood used in every train carriage (such as rosewood and maple wood), to wooden cabinets displaying various series of steam locomotive trains and a mini library stocked up with a collection of books for all ages. A snack bar, located in the second carriage, sells original merchandises, ekibens, food and drinks. One free souvenir which everyone can bring home is the commemorative boarding pass and inked stamp, only found on board SL Hitoyoshi. Could not resist buying a miniature replica of the steam locomotive to add on to my existing collection of toy trains on display at home! Passengers can also borrow a commemorative panel which states the day of travel and also cabin attendant's hats for photo taking purposes.

Unobstructed train view. The most popular and crowded spot is at the rear of the train, where passengers can enjoy an unobstructed, panoramic view throughout the entire train journey. Train travels alongside the mysteriously charming Kuma River, where the water looked emerald green under the bright sunlight. Most people, including myself, hang out at this observation lounge, with our cameras and phones in hand, all prepared to capture/record beautiful pictures at the right moment - when the train crossed the metal bridges accompanied by loud chugging sound or when the train passed by rows of blooming cherry blossom trees leaving a trail of black smoke behind. Children receive this exclusive privilege to sit on the small chairs that were arranged to face the windows. To me, these are the "dream" seats especially for those who want to capture/admire the marvelous landscape without any interruption.  

Rear view of train.

SL Hitoyoshi makes a brief stop at several train stations: 

(1) Yatsushiro JR Station 八代駅. This is the terminus station for Hisatsu line, where a '0' or starting point marker is placed at the platform. Hisatsu line has been around for more than a century and runs through three prefectures, Kumamoto, Miyazaki and Kagoshima. Despite full commissioning of Kyushu Shinkansen in 2011, many travellers are willing to sacrifice time and choose local/ sightseeing trains that commute along Hisatsu line, well known for being a scenic route.

Do you know? From Yatsushiro JR Station, one can also transfer to Hisatsu Orange railway line. On the Hisatsu Orange railway line, train moves alongside the beautiful coastline of East China Sea and Yatsushiro Sea. An Orange Restaurant train also operates between Shin-Yatsushiro and Sendai (川内駅) on weekends and holidays, where passengers can feast on a sumptuous meal while admiring the changing coastline scenery. Hope to experience this train ride on my next trip to Kyushu. From what I understood, this service is extremely popular with the locals, therefore do make an early reservation as soon as the dates of operation are released.
Website: http://www.hs-orange.com/english/

Left; Shiroishi JR Station; Right: Success amulet ticket from Isshouchi JR Station.

(2) Shiroishi JR Station 白石駅. This wooden train station is more than a century old. During the five minutes interval at this station, do hop off the train to explore the surroundings and observe how the train engineers operate the steam locomotive; shoveling coal into the fire box to generate steam to drive the wheels.

(3) Isshouchi JR Station 一勝地駅. Train makes a 10 minutes stop at this station which has an auspicious and lucky name - signifies success and victory. Was surprised to see many passengers rushing down to form a queue in front of the ticket counter. Out of curiosity I decided to join the queue and found out that a lucky charm ticket (shaped like an amulet), each with a unique serial number, was on sale here. Was actually expecting something more, thought that I could exchange this ticket for a real cloth type amulet but this was not the case. A beautiful landscape awaits just outside the train station - a spectacular view of Kuma River and the nearby mountainous area. There is a post office located on the right of the train station upon exit, where you can send a postcard back home with an exclusive inked stamp of Isshouchi post office.    

Kuma River in front of Isshouchi JR Station.

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Video: Scroll to 26:30 for 遇约九州's feature on SL Hitoyoshi.


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Boarding pass & commemorative stamps:

Isshouchi Post Office

Isshouchi JR Station

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 10 Itinerary: Kumamoto 熊本, Kagoshima 鹿児島

Day 10: 24.03.2014
* Day 3 of 5 Day JR Kyushu Rail Pass

Breakfast: Mitsui Green Hotel Kumamoto 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Karashi machi 辛島町 > Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

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Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (0944 hrs) > Hitoyoshi JR Station 人吉駅 (1219 hrs)
by SL Hitoyoshi SL人吉, with stopover @ Yatsushiro 八代駅, Shiroishi 白石駅, Isshouchi 一勝地駅.

Visited Aoi Aso Shrine 青井阿蘇神社.

Hitoyoshi JR Station 人吉駅 (1321 hrs) > Yoshimatsu JR Station 吉松駅 (1434 hrs)
by Isaburo 伊三郎, with stopover @ Okoba 大畑駅, Yatake 矢岳駅 and Masaki 真幸駅.

Lunch: Chestnut rice ekiben, bought at Hitoyoshi JR Station.

Yoshimatsu JR Station 吉松駅 (1503 hrs) > Kagoshima Chuo JR Station 鹿児島中央駅 (1632 hrs)
by Hayato no kaze 隼人の風, with stopover @ Osumi Yokogawa 大隅横河駅 and Kareigawa 嘉例川駅.

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Check in: Hotel Urbic Kagoshima ホテルアービック鹿児島

Kagoshima Chuo Ekimae 鹿児島中央駅前 > Tenmonkan 天文館
by Kagoshima City Tram via Route 2 (heading towards Kagoshima Ekimae). Fee = 160 yen.

Dinner: Kurobuta shabu shabu @ Ichi Nii San Tenmonkan Branch いちにいさん天文館店.

Dessert: Polar bear shaved ice @ Tenmonkan Mujaki むじゃき.

Tenmonkan 天文館 > Kagoshima Chuo Ekimae 鹿児島中央駅前
by Kagoshima City Tram via Route 2. Fee = 160 yen.

Shopping @ AMU Plaza Kagoshima.

- End of Day 10 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ryokan Wakaba わかば

Stayed 21.03.2014 (1 night)

Booked via Booking.com

Although there is a decent number of accommodation options in Kurokawa Onsen, most of them are small scale and do not have many rooms available. Therefore it is advisable to book early especially when this hidden gem is receiving more media attention over the years. Ryokan Wakaba is located nearest to the main bus stop and is less than 5 mins walk to the main hot spring street. You can also request staffs to pick you up at the bus stop if given prior notice. 

Hospitality: A traditional Japanese two storey building, Wakaba is a small scale family run ryokan with only 15 rooms. The immense hospitality showed by the staff here made me felt at ease during my stay. Everyone here serve you with a smile on their faces, regardless of the type of tasks they are handling. As we were brought into our room. the attendant tried her best to explain the features of the hotel (in Japanese mixed with a few simple English words) with hand gestures. Despite us feeling tired after a long bus ride which we took from Mt Aso, we were thoroughly brightened up by her enthusiasm and friendly personality. During meals, the attendant also gave his very best to describe every dish that was served to us despite the language barrier between us. To me, these are the little gestures that will leave memorable impression in people's mind and most importantly, attract guests to come back again.

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Highlights:

Facilities: Booked a twin sharing room, with half board included, at 15,750 yen/pax. Room has a toilet but no bathroom. However, this was not an issue since we utilized the communal bath house offered by the ryokan. Each guest will also get his/her own set of Yukata, towels, socks and toiletries. One habit that I have made (to the point it has become a ritual after multiple trips to Japan) when staying in a ryokan is to first make myself a pot of green tea and enjoy the snacks before heading for my first soak. There is a small shop near the front desk where guests can grab local made/produced souvenirs before departing. 

Hot spring: Two bathhouses are separated by gender. Each bathhouse has a indoor and an open air pool. I prefer the open air hot spring pool (also known as "Rotenburo") where one can catch a glimpse of Chikugo river. At one corner of the pool, the depth is reduced allowing one to lie down while soaking in the hot spring waters - quite a comfortable experience!

Apart from the communal pools, Wakaba also has several private hot spring bathrooms which guests can reserve at no additional charges. We did try out one but the temperature was just too hot for us to even put our legs in. Hot spring water is mildly acidic and source temperature is as high as 60 degC. It is known for curing cuts and burns, and also beneficial to those with skin problems or gynecological illnesses.

Meals. Japanese style multi course dinner was served in our room. The highlight of the meal was horse meat sashimi (Basashi) - a local delicacy in Kumamoto Prefecture. The thinly sliced marbled meat was not chewy like what I anticipated it to be. For me, it felt like eating any other tuna sashimi and definitely not something that I will crave for. The sumptuous dinner also comprised of mouth watering grilled kuro wagyu beef, skin crisp salt grilled yamame trout, tender braised pork belly, yasai tempura and seasonal fruit mousse cake. Overall, I will give a thumb up for the entire dinner course. Had our breakfast in the main dining hall - rice was served with salted salmon, tamago, pickled vegetables, fresh salad and tofu soup.  

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Ryokan Wakaba わかば
〒869-2402　熊本県阿蘇郡南小国町黒川温泉
http://www.ryokanwakaba.com/



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Video: Found this excellent Youtube video featuring Ryokan Wakaba.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春天之旅 - Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉, Shirotamakko 白玉っ子, Doradora どらどら

Visited 21.03.2014, 22.03.2014

Hidden gem. Located in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kurokawa Onsen is a hidden gem that I uncovered during this trip. You will be captivated by its serenity upon arrival. Absence of high rise buildings, only traditional Japanese style houses surrounded by mountains. Chikugo river passes through this small hot spring town, filled with ryokans, eateries and shops. The entire town is fairly small, not too commercialised nor touristy yet, and can be covered within a couple of hours. My advice is don't rush and just your time pass slowly here. A stay in this tranquil town is simply rejuvenating and do wonders to a person's health and mood - stepping out from the hasty pace of life in a growing city. Kurokawa Onsen is a place I miss most from this trip and will surely visit again.

Onsen hopping pass. Otherwise known as Nyuto Tegata (入湯手形) cost 1,300 yen and allows visitors to try out 3 different hot spring bath at any 24 participating ryokans in Kurokawa Onsen. The usage of hot spring facility normally cost between 500 to 600 yen, therefore purchasing this pass is an economical way to try out different rotenburo. Valid for 6 months, this wooden pass can be hung around the neck and will be stamped each time you visit a different bath. Bought one but was not keen in the onsen hopping activity. Brought it back as a souvenir instead.

Top right: Jizoudou, a shrine in Kurokawa Onsen

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Highlights:

Shirotamakko 白玉っ子
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs
https://www.siratamakko.com/

This was the first place we visited after checking in to Ryokan Wakaba. If you are a fan of Japanese glutinous rice balls, this is a cafe to visit to savour their desserts. Served either hot or cold, these colourful balls can be eaten together with soy bean powder or sweet red bean paste. Ordered the seasonal set which comprised of a bowl of matcha, five mochi balls with fragrant tanba kuromame powder (black soybean) and a scoop of strawberry flavoured ice cream - a delectable dessert set to celebrate the arrival of spring!

Left: Shiro Croquette from Warokuya; Right: Mochi dorayaki from Doradora.

Doradora どらどら, located beside Jizoudou (地蔵堂).
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs; Sat, Sun and Public Holidays: 0900 - 1800 hrs
http://kurokawa-kaze.com/index.html

Red bean pancake or dorayaki are commonly found in Japan. In Doradora, a twist was made to this traditional Japanese snack. If you can consume the food on the spot, sandwich a scoop of ice-cream between the pancakes and red bean paste. I bought one that was pre-packed - pancake surface was stamped with a picture similar to the one on the wooden onsen hopping pass, and ice-cream was replaced with mochi, but only ate it after departure from Kurokawa Onsen. What caught me by surprise was that the mochi was stuffed with sweet cream too. The various layers blended well harmoniously together with every bite: the eggy pancake, crunchy red bean paste, chewy mochi and smooth cream filling! How I wish I could have bought a few more pieces! 

Top left: the very popular Patisserie Roku; Top right: Completed onsen hopping pass hung outside Jizoudou.

... and more food! 

Explored Kurokawa Onsen again after breakfast. Did a leisure stroll along the onsen street, stopping by shops to look for unique souvenirs and food stalls to grab a quick snack. In one morning (despite after breakfast), we had fragrant and flavoured rice crackers, honey soft serve and Kumamoto pork croquette (from Warokuya わろく屋). Saw a small crowd at a confectionery - Patisserie Roku, which is famous for their Swiss roll. Squeezed into the shop but left empty handed because Swiss roll here were not sold in slices. After trying out the delicious Swiss roll from the extremely popular B Speak confectionary in Yufuin on the following day, I was already thinking how good Patisserie Roku's would turn out to be...

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Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉
黒川温泉観光旅館協同組合 インフォメーションセンター
〒869-2402 熊本県阿蘇郡南小国町黒川さくら通り
http://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/

How to get there?

By bus: Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. Utiltised this bus service from Mt Aso West Station to visit Kurokawa Onsen. On the following day, I took the same bus from Kurokawa Onsen to Yufuin.

• Kumamoto > Aso JR Station > Kurokawa Onsen > Yufuin > Beppu:http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt1.pdf
• Beppu > Yufuin > Kurokawa Onsen > Aso JR Station > Kumamoto: http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt2.pdf

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Video: Scroll to 20:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Kurokawa Onsen. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Mt Aso 阿蘇

Visited 21.03.2014

Not clouds but huge plumes of volcanic gases emitted from Nakadake.

Incomplete. I always find it a challenge to pen down thoughts for a place which I did not get to explore fully due to unforeseen circumstances. I will definitely list Mt Aso was one of them. Mt Aso activity has been pretty erratic in recent years and it has become increasingly difficult to get a peek of the fuming Nakadake (中岳) crater. On the day before our visit, bus services (Asosan Ropeway was under maintenance at that point of time) to Nakadake was suspended as eruption alert was raised. On the day of visit, alert was lifted and bus services were resumed. Unfortunately, the area near the crater were restricted as huge plumes of volcanic gases (H2S and SO2) were emitted and engulfed the surrounding area. Weather was also very unpredictable that day. First had to battled a snow storm when we arrived. Had to seek shelter because of the strong chilling wind and poor visibility. A while later, the storm stopped and we were greeted by clear blue skies. And just before we left, the snow storm recovered. Despite not being able to come close to the crater, the beautiful natural landscape of this mountainous area was something worth making the trip for. Not sure whether I will get the chance to revisit Mt Aso in the near future especially when volcanic activity continues to be perpetually high at this point of time.

Facts about Mt Aso. Mt Aso is made up of five peaks - Nakadake, Kishimadake, Eboshidake, Nekodake and Takadake. It is currently the largest active volcano in Japan and only the active Nakadake is accessible to visitors. Takadake is the highest among all, standing at 1,592 m tall. Aso has one of the largest caldera in the world - 25 km north-south and 18 km east-west, spanning over an area of 380 km2.

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What's nearby?

House riding acitvity in Kusasenri.

(1) Kusasenri 草千里
Along the way to Mt Aso Ropeway, you will spot this huge grassland surrounded by mountains. Kusasenri is a round shaped grassland, which originally was a crater, located between Kishimadake (杵島岳) and Eboshidake (烏帽子岳). From photos, one may mistaken Kusasenri for a place in Mongolia - clear blue skies, a small pond hidden within the lush greenery and horses are allowed to gaze freely on the large plain. Passed by Kusasenri on the bus but could not replicate this scenery as the weather was bad (snowing) during the day of my visit.

Spotted Komezuka during the bus journey from Mt Aso to Kurokawa Onsen.

(2) Komezuka 米塚
Keep a lookout for a smaller and well defined hill that can be easily identified by its depression on the summit when you travel around Mt Aso area. Komezuka actually means "rice hill" and its name came about because of a legend. Rice harvest was piled up to form this hill by a deity of Aso (Takeiwatatsunomikoto). The slight depression on the summit was said to be created after rice was scooped out from the top by him to distribute to poor people.

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Mt Aso Ropeway 阿蘇山ロープウェイ
Operating hours:
- 20 Mar - 31 Oct: 0830 - 1800 hrs
- 1 Nov - 30 Nov: 0830 - 1700 hrs
- 1 Dec - 19 Mar: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Fee = 1,200 yen (round trip); 750 yen (single trip)
* When ropeway is closed for maintenance, buses are employed to shuffle visitors between both stations. Similar fare is charged for the bus service.
* Please check out the following website to acquire advisory information for visit to Mt Aso.
http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/aso/lang_en/

How to get there?

(1) Sanko Bus 産交バス
Board the Aso Crater line bus (阿蘇火口線) heading for Mt Aso West Station (阿蘇山西駅). Fee = 650 yen.
Timetable (in Japanese): http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/aso_sen/

(2) Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (Ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. 

• Kumamoto > Aso JR Station > Kurokawa Onsen > Yufuin > Beppu: http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt1.pdf
• Beppu > Yufuin > Kurokawa Onsen > Aso JR Station > Kumamoto: http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/english/table/odantt2.pdf

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Video: Scroll to 23:10 for 遇约九州 feature on Mt Aso.