Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Kisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち

Visited 19.11.2014　

Gourmet search. Apart from being the last clear river in Japan, Shimanto River is also a habitat for many marine life. These "treasures" of the river are eventually transformed to simple yet delicious gourmet dishes that the locals are proud of. In Shimanto, freshness is guaranteed, since it is harvested from the nearby river, and this is also the key element that brings out the best flavour of the food. There are many restaurants here offering local specialty dishes; dropped by Taniguchi as it was located near our hotel stay for the night (Nakamura Prince Hotel). Taniguchi is a family operated restaurant with a homely atmosphere that can felt almost immediately upon stepping in. Was handed over a Japanese menu but the waitress quickly passed us an English one after she knew that we were foreigners. Food ordering was effortless because pictures with descriptions were made available  in the menu too.

Top left: Deep fried river shrimps; Bottom left: Tempura seaweed; Bottom right: Deep fried goby fishes.

So what is the cuisine created from the freshest ingredients harvested from Shimanto River? Ordered a variety of dishes to find out:

• Deep fried river shrimps (800 yen). These river shrimps have long arms, which reminded me of those we see in indoor prawn catching pools back at home. Shrimps are deep fried until crispy red to lock in and enhance the natural sweet flavours of the shrimps. Recommended for those who are fans of prawns like me. This was the first dish served and was great start to dinner.
• Deep fried goby fish (800 yen). It was my first time eating goby fish. Did not find this dish particularly outstanding because I could not really make out the flavours of this ikan bilis sized fish in my mouth. Restaurant also served goby fishes cooked in other style such as soy sauce broiled, simmered with egg and vinegar marinated. In fact, the best time to savour goby fishes is in March when the goby fishing season starts. 
• Tempura seaweed (750 yen). Known as Hitoegusa (ヒトエグサ), this type of seaweed is hand picked at the river mouth where fresh and salt waters merge. Cooked in the tempura style, I like the crunchy yet fluffy texture of the seaweed. Remember to soak the seaweed in the light dipping sauce which will help get rid some of the oiliness. Highly recommended for all to try!

• Salt grilled ayu or sweet fish (1,500 yen). I have never eaten a failed salt grilled ayu fish so far in Japan. This is actually very good: salt rubbed and grilled till crispy golden brown; sweetness of the meat can be tasted with every bite.    

• Grilled wild eel/unagi. Found this overly priced but decided to give it a try nevertheless. To me, what makes a good grilled eel is to ensure the right amount of time is given to disintegrate the fatty portion of the meat but not too overly done till the moisture of the meat is lost and the savory sauce that is swiped onto the meat during the process of grilling. This grilled unagi met my expectations in all aspects.  

Remember... Overall, the dining experience was pleasant. Apart from the delicious local cuisine, we received warm hospitality from the folks of Taniguchi throughout our stay. Despite the language barrier, they still maintained the same level of service and even tried to engage in a simple conversation with me just before we left. Sometimes, it is these simple acts of gesture that make you forget that you are in foreign country and a good reminder to myself to remain humble and sincere to people around me.

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Kisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち
高知県四万十市中村大橋通4-50
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1300 hrs, 1700 - 2200 hrs. Closed on Sundays.

How to get there?
(1) 15 mins walk from Nakamura Station
(2) 5 mins walk from Nakamura Prince Hotel

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル

Stayed 19.11.2014 (Wed)
Booked thru' Jalan.net.
- Twin Room = 10,300 yen
- Single Room = 5,600 yen

Challenge. Searched through various hotel booking portals but did not come across any familiar or popular business hotel chain in this rural town. Wanted to stay close to Shimanto River since that was my main objective here in Nakamura. Finally landed on Nakamura Prince Hotel as it met my criteria, both in terms of location and price. 

View of Shimanto River and Red Iron Bridge from room.

Twin sharing rooms from the 5th floor and above can enjoy a scenic view of Shimanto River and the symbolic Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋) right out of their windows. Just before dinner, we did an evening stroll from the hotel to the Red Iron Bridge to capture the tranquility of Shimanto River at sunset. Though not a subsidiary of an established brand, Nakamura Prince Hotel follows the typical business hotel model both in terms of service provided and facilities available. Selected the package without breakfast, but after scrutinizing the nearby area for possible eateries that open for business in the day, I could not find any except for a 24 hours operation convenience store (Lawson) on the opposite side of the hotel. Decided to opt for the buffet breakfast service available in the hotel on the following day. Overall, Nakamura Prince Hotel is comparable to most budget business hotels I have bunked in before in bigger cities. Though I did encountered a hiccup during check out (only found out that I was over-charged after I left the hotel and had to return to get my money back), I will not mind returning to this hotel because of its convenient location.    

What's nearby? 

Evening stroll along Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋).

Calm waters in Shimanto River.

(1) Shimanto River and Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋). About 2 mins walk away from the hotel.

(2) Lawson convenience store, just opposite to the hotel. As it was still early after dinner, I decided to explore the area by walking from the hotel to Nakamura Station. It was slightly after 7 pm and the streets of Shimanto city was already very empty and quiet - was a bit wary as it seemed like I was the only pedestrian walking on the street. Glad that Lawson was there to satisfy my late night snack and drink needs!

(3) Eateries. Was afraid that I could not find any good eateries in the surrounding area but my worry was unnecessary. Managed to gather a handful of options, within walking distance, with pretty decent online reviews. On that night, we had a delicious array of Shimanto specialties for dinner in Taniguchi (季節料理たにぐち), which was just 5 minutes walk away from the hotel.

A quiet and pleasant Shimanto city. 

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Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル
〒787-0034　高知県四万十市中村弥生町4-1
http://www.np-h.com/

How to get there?

(1) Walk. 20 - 30 mins walk from Nakamura Station.

(2) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Sukumo (宿毛). Alight at Obashidori-nichome (大橋通二丁目), bus stop is just in front of the hotel. Bus journey takes 5 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf

(3) Taxi. About 5 mins drive away from Nakamura Station.

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Nakamura Station 中村駅

Nakamura Station (TK40) on Nakamura/Sukumo line.
Alight here to visit Shimanto River, the longest river in Shikoku is also referred as the last clear river in Japan because there are no dams constructed along the entire river.

JR Shikoku or Tosa Kuroshio Railway? Even though both Nakamura and Sukumo line are operated by Tosa Kuroshio Railway, limited express trains owned by JR Shikoku also serve the train stations along both lines. When these trains arrived at Kubokawa station, the interchange station between Dosan and Nakamura lines, there is a changeover of service crew between JR Shikoku and Tosa Kuroshio Railway. It is interesting to see a complete change in train conductor, dressed in a different uniform, and hear a different voice over the PA system after the train moves off from this station.

Award wining train station. Nakamura Station undergone a major renovation in 2010. The team (nextstations) behind this project wanted to redefine people's impression of a train station in a rural area. The interior was revitalised with a modern concept, using wood as the core material of construction. A sense of warmth, created by both the yellow lighting and natural lighting that shines in through the huge glass panels, can be felt in the waiting area. Such small interventions within an existing structure has expanded the space for people's movement, making it more passenger-friendly. The team has also won numerous design related awards for this project. This award winning design was featured in many magazines and the high recognition has attracted people to pay this train station a visit.

Apart from local trains, the following limited express trains serve Nakamura station.

(1) Limited Express Shimanto, which commutes between Takamatsu and Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.

(2) Limited Express Nanpu, which commutes between Okayama, Kochi and Nakamura.

(3) Limited Express Ashizuri, which commutes between Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus stop, located in front of train station.
Board the bus covering Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo route (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線)
to visit Cape Ashizuri (足摺岬). Bus journey takes about 1 hr 40 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/local/

(2) Tourist Information Center (Shimanto City Tourism Association), about 5 minutes walk from train station.
Walked to the tourist information center to arrange a sightseeing taxi to cover Cape Ashizuri with the assistance rendered by the staff on duty. One of the best way to explore Shimanto River and its bridges is by bicycles and the tourist information center here provides rental services as well.
Website: http://www.shimanto-kankou.com/ 

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Commemorative stamp:

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬

Visited 19.11.2014

Southernmost tip. Decided to hire a taxi to bring us from Nakamura to Tosa Shimizu (土佐清水), where Ashizurimisaki (otherwise known as Cape Ashizuri) is located. At this southernmost tip of Shikoku island, the terrain is made up of weathered granite cliffs, standing at 80 m high, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. A 18 m tall lighthouse here has been in operation since 1914, and the strong illumination emitted from the structure can be seen as far as 38 km away. Was fortunate to be blessed with good weather on the day of our visit; greeted by the cooling sea breeze as we stood at the observation platform to admire the glittering blue waters and clear horizon. Being able to view this spectacular scenery made the long and winding journey worthwhile.

Marker for the southermost point of Shikoku island.

A statue of Nakahama Manjiro (中濱 万次郎) erected here at Cape Ashizuri, who played an important role being a translator to foreigners in the final years of Edo period. 

Ashizurimisaki is actually part of the larger Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park (足摺宇和海国立公園). Other attractions in the vicinity include:
- Kongofuku-ji (金剛福寺), the 38th temple of Shikoku Pilgrimage.
- Hakusan Domon (白山洞門), a well defined hole (16 m tall by 17 m wide) penetrating through a huge slab of granite cliff, created through prolonged erosion by seawaters. Wanted very much to visit this natural formation but did not manage to do so due to some miscommunication with the taxi driver. If you are taking the same bus from Nakamura Station heading for Ashizurimisaki, alight at Shirao Jinja (白皇神社) which is one bus stop prior the terminus at Ashizurimisaki. If it is too taxing on the body to climb all the way down to view Hakusan Domon, you can head down to Manjiro Ashiyu (万次郎足湯), which is an observatory equipped with footbath!
- In fact, Ashizuri is a hot spring town discovered more than 1,200 years ago. Apart from the above mentioned Manjiro Ashiyu, there are a handful of hotels with hot spring facilities established in this area.
Ashizuri Onsen: http://www.ashizuri-onsen.com/

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Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬
http://www.shimizu-kankou.com/diarypro02/archives/127.html

How to get there? 
(1) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Ashizurimisaki, and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes 1 hr 40 mins and cost 1,900 yen.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Day 7 Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬, Shimanto 四万十

Day 7: 19.11.2014
* Day 4 of 5 days All Shikoku Rail Pass

Ashizurimisaki

Breakfast: Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉

Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉 > Oboke JR 大歩危駅
by hotel free shuttle service

Oboke JR 大歩危駅 (1037 hrs) > Nakamura Station 中村駅 (1324 hrs)
by Ltd Express Nanpu 3

Lunch: Ekiben, on board train

Visited Shimanto Tourist Information Centre to arrange 3 hours sightseeing taxi.

Ohki Beach

Visited:
(1) Ohki Beach 大岐の浜
(2) Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬
(3) Kongofuku-ji 金刚福寺

Check in: Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル
http://www.np-h.com/

Dinner: Kisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち

- End of Day 7 -

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Oboke JR Station 大歩危駅, Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危

Oboke JR Station (D27), on the Dosan line. This unmanned train station is the gateway to several places of interest in Miyoshi-shi (三好市) such as Iya Onsen, Kazurabashi and Oboke/Koboke gorge. A prelude of Oboke gorge can also be experienced from a pathway located on the opposite side of the train station.

A glimpse of Oboke gorge at the train station.

Apart from local trains, the following limited express trains serve Oboke Station.
(1) Limited Express Shimanto, which commutes between Takamatsu and Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.
(2) Limited Express Nanpu, which commutes between Okayama, Kochi and Nakamura.

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What's nearby? 

(1) Bus stop, located just outside the train station. 

There are two buses heading for Kazurabashi (かずら橋) from Oboke Station:
- Shikoku Kotsu Bus (四国交通バス), Iya line (祖谷線)
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/009.pdf
* Note that additional buses are operated only on weekends & public holidays between Apr and Nov.
- Miyoshi-shien Bus 三好市営バス, Kazurabashi/Oboke line (かずら橋・大歩危線)
Bus schedule: https://www.miyoshi.i-tokushima.jp/fs/2/0/2/0/9/_/h28nishiiyajikokuhyousasikae.pdf

(2) Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危; Yokai House and Stone Museum 妖怪屋敷と石の博物館, about 20 mins walk from Oboke JR Station.
This is more than a conventional roadside station. Located just alongside Oboke gorge, this roadside station houses a tourist information center, a souvenir shop, a cafeteria offering Iya Soba (a specialty here) on their menu, a footbath to soak your legs in and an observatory to capture the beautiful scenery of the gorge. On top of the exhaustive list of facilities mentioned, the same building also contains a Yokai House and a stone museum. Oboke and Koboke are both located in Yamashiro-cho, and it is in this quaint (and mysterious) mountainous region where numerous folktales on yokai/spiritual creatures originated from. In fact, Konakijijii (こなきじじい), a yokai featured in "Gegege no Kitaro" manga series created by Mizuki Shigeru, was inspired by here. There are about 70 sculptures/figurines of yokai on display here in Yokai House and they are all handmade by the locals, to preserve and pass down this unique heritage for future generations to appreciate. On the other hand, the stone museum features precious stones consolidated from all over the world and detailed account on how Oboke gorge is formed. Though I did drop by Michi no eki Oboke with Oboke Iya sightseeing tour bus, I spent all my time at the observatory admiring Oboke gorge which was surrounded by autumn foliage.

Michi no eki Oboke 道の駅大歩危
〒779-5452　徳島県三好市山城町上名1553-1
- Yokai House and Stone Museum 妖怪屋敷と石の博物館
Opening hrs: 0900 - 1640 hrs
Admission fee: 500 yen
http://wx07.wadax.ne.jp/~yamashiro-info-jp/cp-bin/wordpress/

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Video: Scroll to 2:28 for Go Go Japan's feature on Yokai House.




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Commemorative stamp: 

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Shikoku Pilgrimage 四国遍路: Chikurinji 竹林寺; Kongofukuji 金剛福寺

Visited Chikurinji (竹林寺) on 17.11.2014
Visited Kongofukuji (金剛福寺) on 19.11.2014

Shikoku Pilgrimage. In Shikoku, you will notice pedestrians donned in white, wearing conical strawed hats and carrying a walking stick, occasionally. They are all on a pilgrimage unique to Shikoku, tracing the footsteps of a Japanese monk named Ku kai (空海), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, to cover 88 temples on the island of Shikoku. The entire trail is about 1,100 km long and requires time, physical fitness and strong mental determination to accomplish the pilgrimage simply by foot. The reason behind in this pilgrimage may not be driven by religious reasons only; some want to explore Shikoku in an unconventional way, purely by walking. 16 out of 88 temples are located in Kochi Prefecture, the largest yet least populated prefecture in Shikoku. For my trip to Shikoku, I paid a visit to two of them - Chikurinji in Kochi city and Kongofukuji in Tosashimizu city.

Main hall.

Spotted someone going on the pilgrimage.

Five storey pagoda of Chikurinji.

Surrounded by autumn foliage.

Pretty omikuji (おみくじ), otherwise known as fortune telling paper strips. 

Temple #31: Chikurinji 竹林寺 
Chikurinji was built on Godaisan (五台山) in 724, way earlier than Kongofukuji. This temple was actually modeled after another temple located on China's Mt Wutai (same kanji as Godaisan). Monju Bosatsu (文殊菩薩), which is also known as the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, is being worshipped in the main hall, or Hondo. What caught my eye immediately was this beautiful five storey pagoda (五重塔) which stands at 31.2 m tall and made out of cypress wood. It was autumn period during our time of visit; the pagoda stood out even more brilliantly among the autumn foliage. One other feature of Chikurinji is its landscaped Japanese garden which was given the title of scenic site of Japan in 2004.  Sadly, I only got to know that there is such garden within its premises after browsing through its website. From photos uploaded online, the garden does look pretty stunning and worth a visit.

Temple #38: Kongofukuji 金剛福寺
Kongofukuji is located in Ashizurimisaki, the southernmost tip of the island of Shikoku. Kannon is being worshipped in this temple which has been around since Heian period (794 - 1185). There is a stone statue of a turtle named Daishikame (大師亀) located at the front of the temple. Apart from the normal rituals, one other practice unique to here is to touch the head of Daishikame and say your wishes at the same time.

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Chikurinji 竹林寺 （第31番札所）
〒781-8125 高知県高知市五台山3577
Operating hours: 0800 - 1700 hrs
http://www.chikurinji.com/
http://www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/31chikurinji/

How to get there? 

(1) MY Yu Bus (MY遊バス).
At Kochi JR Station, board MY Yu Bus heading for Katsurahama and alight at Chikurinji (竹林寺).
Kochi JR Station <> Katsurahama: 1 Day Pass = 1,000 yen
Kochi JR Station <> Chikurin-ji: Godaisan 1 Day Pass = 600 yen
MY Yu Bus: https://www.attaka.or.jp/kanko/kotsu_mybus.php



Kongofukuji 金剛福寺（第38番札所）
〒787-0315 高知県土佐清水市足摺岬214-1
Operating hours: 0700 - 1700 hrs
http://www.88shikokuhenro.jp/kochi/38kongofukuji/index.html

How to get there?

(1) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Ashizurimisaki, and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes 1 hr 40 mins and cost 1,900 yen.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf