Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園

Visited 15.03.2014, 26.03.2014

Fukuoka Castle ruins in Maizuru Park.

Luck. The ultimate aim of this trip to Kyushu was to experience cherry blossom season. From late Dec and early Jan onwards, the meteorological center in Japan issues a forecast on the bloom of cherry blossoms and updates the information progressively. Despite efforts to plan this trip based on past years' data, we were still about 1 - 2 weeks earlier than the full bloom period. Visited Maizuru Park on the very first day when we arrived in Kyushu but could only see flower buds. No luck in Ureshino Onsen as well. Nearer to the end of this trip, we finally witnessed the beauty of these flowers in Sakurajima and Ibusuki. On the day before we flew back to Singapore, we made our way to Maizuru Park again and was amazed by the transformation one week later. Was extremely delighted to see the entire park decorated by beautiful blooming cherry blossom trees. 

Day 1: No flowers at all!

Day 12: In time to catch the blooming flowers.

Maizuru Park is one of the most popular cherry blossom viewing spots in Fukuoka. There is a symbol assigned to every station in Fukuoka subway and the nearest subway station, Ohori Park, is represented by Sakura! There are about 1000 cherry blossom trees planted in Maizuru Park and the blooming period falls between late March to mid April. Maizuru Park is also where the ruins of Fukuoka Castle can be found. Series of activities are kicked off during the cherry blossom festival which typically last over a week or so. This is the time whereby people start to flock in with their picnic mats, enjoy their food and drinks while admiring these pink flowers which appear only once a year.

During the festival week, the stage for these flowers are lighted up brightly at night till 2200 hrs. The contrast against the dark skies makes these delicate flowers look exceptionally mesmerizing and endearing. Therefore, do not forget to pay a visit to the park at night to participate in "夜桜" (sakura viewing at night) during the short cherry blossom period. 

Contented to catch a glimpse of these blooming flowers in Maizuru Park just before going home!

Other Sakura viewing spot? Nishi Park (西公園), located about 7 minutes walk from Ohori Park subway station, is also a well known hanami location in Fukuoka city.


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Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園
〒810-0043　中央区城内1
http://www.midorimachi.jp/park/detail.php?code=302001

How to get there?

By Fukuoka city subway, via Kuko line (orange line) towards Meinohama and alight at Ohori Park (K06). 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo JR九州ホテル ブラッサム博多中央

Stayed 26.03.2014 (Wed)
Reserved thru' Booking.com
- Twin Room = 12,000 yen (exclusive of breakfast)

This is the 2nd hotel we stayed in Hakata. Compared to Miyako Hotel, JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo is newer in almost all aspects but the former has the classy flair. In terms of price, Blossom is cheaper than Miyako as well. There are two JR Kyushu hotels in Hakata, both strategically rooted near the train station - Blossom Hakata Chuo is located on the Hakata Exit, whereas Blossom Fukuoka is located on Chikusi Exit. Booked the twin room which are larger at 25 m2, with adequate walking space and could even occupy a side table with chairs. Modern design, business hotel concept, equipped with all the things one need for a good one night stay.

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What's nearby?

(1) Hakata JR Station, the busiest train station and gateway to other parts of Kyushu.

(2) Fukuoka city subway: Hakata Station (K11), on Kuko line (orange line)

• 3 stops away from Tenjin Station (K08). Transfer to Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu and Yanagawa. 
• 2 stops away from Fukuoka Domestic Terminal (K13).

Right: Delicious Hakata no Ishidatami from Chocolate Shop; Top left: Hakata JR Station signboard key chain from Tokyu Hands; Bottom left: Visited Doutor for breakfast before we departed from Hakata.

(3) JR Hakata City

• Houses two shopping mall: AMU Plaza and Hankyu.
• Tokyu Hands occupies five storeys here. On the first floor, a space is dedicated to the sale of Kyushu souvenirs and JR Kyushu merchandise. If you miss out on some of the merchandises sold on board the train, you may be able to find it here again. Bought a key chain with Hakata JR Station sign board here. 
• Chocolate Shop, located on the first floor just opposite to Tokyu Hands, is a famous confectionery and sweets shop which originated in 1942 in Hataka. One of their signature cake is Hakata no Ishidatami (博多の石畳), made up of layers of chocolate sponge cake and chocolate mousse, sandwiched with fresh cream and covered with chocolate powder. The rich chocolate mousse melts and fills up the pores in the light and fluffy sponge cake, leaving a satisfying chocolaty sensation in the mouth.   

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JR Kysuhu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo JR九州ホテル ブラッサム博多中央
〒812-0011 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅前2-2-11
http://www.jrk-hotels.co.jp/en/Hakatachuo/

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 12 & 13 Itinerary: Kagoshima 鹿児島, Kumamoto 熊本, Fukuoka 福岡

Day 12: 26.03.2014
* Day 5 of 5 Day JR Kyushu Rail Pass

Ohori Park

Breakfast: Tsukimiso 旅館月見荘

Tsukimiso 旅館月見荘 > Ibusuki JR Station 指宿駅
by hotel free shuttle service.

Ibusuki JR Station 指宿駅 (0901 hrs) > Kagoshima Chuo JR Station 鹿児島中央駅 (1020 hrs)
by local train.

Visited Kotsuri River 甲突川.

Kagoshima chuo JR Station 鹿児島中央駅 (1110 hrs) > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1206 hrs)
by Sakura 552.

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Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前 > Torichosuji 通町筋
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Lunch: Kourantei 紅蘭亭, at Shimo Tori.

Visited Kumamon Square くまモンスクエア, at Tsuruya.
Watched Kumamon's performance @ 1500 hrs.

Suidocho 水道町 > Karashimacho 辛島町,
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Collect luggage from Mitsui Garden Hotel.

Mitsui Green Hotel > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅
by taxi.

Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1559 hrs) > Hakata JR Station 博多駅 (1637 hrs)
by Sakura 562.

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Check in: JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo JR九州ホテル ブラッサム博多中央

Bought 1 day Fukuoka City Subway Pass. Fee = 600 yen.
* 500 yen on weekends & Public Holidays, 600 yen on weekdays.[520 yen & 620 yen from Apr 2014 onwards] 


Hakata 博多 > Ohori Park 大濠公園
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line (orange line).

Visited Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園.

Ohori Park 大濠公園 > Tenjin 天神
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line.

Shopping @ Daimaru.

Tenjin 天神 > Hakata 博多
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line.

Shopping @ Tokyu Hands.

Dinner: Yoshinoya, branch @ Hakata JR Chikusi Exit.

- End of Day 12 -

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Day 13: 27.03.2014

Breakfast: Dotour Coffee, branch @ Hakata subway station.

Hakata > Fukuoka Airport
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko line. Fee = 250 yen.

Fukuoka Domestic Airport > FUK
by free airport shuttle bus.

FUK (1000 hrs) > SIN T2 (1535 hrs)
by SQ 655

- End of Kyushu Spring 2014 Trip -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tetsunabe 鉄なべ

Visited 16.03.2014

Tetsunabe started off as an Izakaya and became well-known for their pan fried dumplings or yaki gyoza. So far, most of the gyoza I had was during visits to ramen shop, typically ordered as side-dishes. What makes their gyoza stand out from the conventional ones?
(1) These handmade gyoza are smaller than usual, which means each gyoza fits one mouth nicely.
(2) They served in the piping hot iron pan, right off the stove.

Wanted to visit the main shop which is located near Gion subway station. Later found out that they have a smaller branch in Fukuoka Parco, which is easily accessible via Tenjin's underground shopping street. [Note: Could not locate any information on this branch from Fukuoka Parco and Tetsunabe main page. Branch may have closed down, therefore will be safer to patronise the main shop.]

Ordered a 10 + 6 pieces pan fried gyoza and 7 pieces gyoza in soup. Skin of the pan-fried gyoza was thin and crispy, sealing the juicy meat and cabbage fillings - simply irresistible! Their secret ponzu sauce elevates the flavours of the delicious gyoza further. Would recommend the pan fried version more than the ones in soup. Apart from gyozas, other popular dishes that Tetsunabe has to offer include stewed chicken wings and potato salad. Simple yet delicious, this is a local delicacy not to be missed when you visit Fukuoka.

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Tetsunabe Main Shop 鉄なべ

http://www.tetsunabe.co.jp/
3 mins walk from Gion Subway Station Exit 5.
Opening hrs: 1700 - 0000 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天满宫

Visited 16.03.2014

The main hall (Honden); Kisa no ume on the left and Tobi ume on the right

History. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is an important landmark in Dazaifu city. It is sacred to the memory of Michizane Sugawara (菅原道真) famously known as the God of literature or calligraphy. In 901 A.D., Michizane was demoted from a high ranking government official and sent to exile in Dazaifu, where he died two years later. Michizane is celebrated as a man, pure in heart and deed, and after his death, he was deified and worshiped as a god in Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, which is built on the site of his grave. Many people, especially students, make their way to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine to pray for excellence in academic studies.

Top left: Taikobashi; Top bottom: bronze statue of ox at the entrance.

Layout. Exit Nishitetsu Dazaifu station and turn right. Walk to the end of Omotesando and turn left as you approach the bronze statue of an ox. Cross the Taikobashi (太鼓橋) which is made up of three bridges - the first arched bridge represents the past, next flat bridge the present and last arched bridge the future. Shinji ike (心字池) is just beneath the bridges and the name of the pond came about because it resembles the character "heart" (心). The first shrine was built in 905 A.D. and a larger structure was later constructed in 919 A.D. but was destroyed by war and fire. The current main hall (Honden), which displayed fine and intricate Monoyama style architecture, was constructed in 1591 and has been preserved in the same state since then. The main hall has also been designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.

Plum. As there are about 6,000 plum trees in the compound, the shrine is popular with visitors especially during the spring season. There are two plum trees planted on both sides of the main hall. The one of the right is called Tobi ume or flying plum (飛梅). The name came from the legend of this plum tree uprooting itself from Kyoto (where Michizane came from) to reunite with Michizane in Dazaifu. Unfortunately, almost all of the flowers of Tobi-ume have already withered during my visit - the best time to witness the bloom is in late January. The tree on the left side is named Kisa no ume (皇后の梅) and was planted in 1922 when Teimei Kogo (貞明皇后) came to the shrine for worship. Most of the plum trees are found in the park located outside the main hall. Made use of the remaining time before the shrine was closed for the day to admire these beautiful late bloomers.

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Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天满宫
〒818-0117　福岡県太宰府市宰府4丁目7番1号
Opening hrs:
Jun - Aug: 0630 - 2000 hrs
Sep - May: 0630 - 1900 hrs
http://www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp/en

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Video: Scroll to 40:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station 太宰府駅, Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店

Dazaifu Station, the terminus station on Nishitetsu Dazaifu line.
* JR Kyushu Rail Pass does not cover Nishitetsu operated lines.

Transfer at Futsukaichi Station (二日市駅) to Dazaifu line. Approx 5 mins train ride between both train stations. 

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What's nearby? 

(1) Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, the most prominent landmark & attraction in Dazaifu city.

(2) Kasanoya かさの家 

Red bean mochi cake, otherwise beautifully known as plum tree branch cake (梅枝ヶ餅), is a snack famous in this area.
History: Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine was built in memory of Michizane Sugawara (菅原道真), a famous poet and politician during Heian Period of Japan (794 - 1185). It was said that when Michizane Sugawara was battling with hunger while working in Dazaifu, an old lady handed him a plum tree branch which has a piece of warm red bean cake inserted into it. That was how the name of this red bean cake came about.

There are many shops selling this snack along Omotesando which stretches from the train station to the shrine. Came to Kasanoya and bought one to try just before the shop closed for the day. Simple yet delectable snack - sweet red bean filling and lightly toasted, chewy mochi skin. 

(3) Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店

Exterior of Starbucks

As you walk along Omotesando, there is one shop that will surely catch your attention. I must say this is most unique and artistically designed Starbucks branch I have seen so far in my life. Designed by renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma (隈 研吾), he wanted to create a fusion between traditional and modern culture using natural materials such as wood and bamboo. Numerous wooden sticks intersecting each another in an repetitive fashion created a frame on top of the rustic cemented walls. Unexpectedly, the finished product looked aesethically pleasing. You can't help exclaiming in excitement (internally) as you scan every corner of this piece of artwork, while enjoying your cup of coffee in a totally different ambience. 

Interior of Starbucks.

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Motoyoshiya 吉本屋

Visited 16.03.2014

Spot the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent!

After an enjoyable tea break at River Flow (リバーフロー 紅茶の店), we decided to walk back to Yanagawa train station and along the way, we would stop by Motoyoshiya for steamed eel rice. Thought we could avoid the lunch hour queue, but at 2 pm in the afternoon there were four to five groups of guests standing in front of this two storey tall, traditional Japanese style house. Got to see the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent where the aroma of grilled eel is continuously being sucked out from the kitchen and introduced to the environment, luring patrons to this restaurant. Had to wait for about half an hour before seats were available. Sat down comfortably on the tatami mats and ordered a grilled eel set each.

Secret sauce. Yanagawa is famous for unagi no seiro mushi (鰻の蒸籠蒸), which is essentially grilled eel put on rice and steamed. There are numerous restaurant here offering this famous traditional dish and Motoyoshiya has been around for more than 300 years! Eel is dipped into its secret sauce and is grilled to golden brown. Next, the grilled eel is put on top of the rice and steamed twice in a bamboo basket. The dish is garnished with shredded egg just before served. One thing that I always hope for when eating eel is that the fine bones are removed cleanly from the meat. Motoyoshiya did quite a good job in this, at least I was not pricked by any bones during the course of eating. Though the meat is tender, I found the meat slightly charred to my liking. What I like most about this dish was its fragrant rice which is soaked up with the light, savoury sauce during the steaming process. Every mouthful of rice was so satisfying to my tastebuds and I gobbled up the entire portion of rice within minutes! Though I am not a big fan of eel, I will still recommend to give this dish a try. I will definitely eat this again for the sake of its secret sauce and rice.  

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Motoyoshiya 吉本屋
福岡県柳川市旭町69
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2100 hrs
Approx 12 mins walk from Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - River Flow リバーフロー 紅茶の店

Visited 16.03.2014

Was reading a travel guide on Kyushu and stumbled across this picture of a heart shaped tea cup, which was served by River Flow, a tea house in Yanagawa. Paying this tea house a visit soon had to be put into my list of places to visit in Yanagawa (apart from tasting its famous steamed eel rice) for this trip!

Went for the river punting cruise, the activity most tourists would engage in on their debut trip to Yanagawa, also referred to the city of river. Alighted at Okihata (the end point of an hour long river punting cruise), and made our way to River Flow located in the vicinity. A two storey shophouse which overlooks the scenic river, River Flow sells more than 50 different varieties of tea. Interior of the tea house was decorated with European style wallpaper, wooden furnishing and parquet flooring - all these features created a homely and cosy ambience for guests to relax in. First floor is their tea shop, while the upper deck has about 6 tables for in house dining.

Original intent was to take a short break here over a cup of tea. However, we could not resist not ordering their limited period lunch set (1,350 yen), which was introduced for Dolls Festival, to share. Had two other tea and dessert sets, each comprised of a slice of cake and a pot of tea.

(1) Main course of the lunch set was made up of many delectable small dishes: meat loaf, mackerel with sesame sauce, simmered vegetables, broccoli and bamboo shoot mixed with ume dressing, asparagus and walnut with Japanese dressing, fried beancurd stuffed with sushi rice and soup. Strawberry milk jelly dessert and a pot of tea were served at the end of the meal. The lunch set not only had a good balance of meat and vegetable items and eye appealing plating, tastewise it had exceeded our expectations as well.

(2) Two tea and desserts sets:
- Haruiro Set はるいろセット (850 yen), which comprised of matcha azuki chiffon cake and sakura tea.
- Hina Set ひなセット (850 yen), which comprised of strawberry custard roll cake and original blend tea.
Cakes and tea were served in beautiful and intricate flower patterned porcelain wares. Preferred the chiffon cake beacause the matcha flavour was fully infused in the sponge cake. Both cakes went well with the recommended type of tea.

Overall dinning experience was good. River Flow has a apt setting for people to spend an afternoon here with families and friends, catching up on each other's life, with the company of delicious cakes and aromatic tea. 

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River Flow 紅茶の店
http://tearoom-riverflow.com/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 1930 hrs (Closed on Wed)

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Video: Tea house was featured in 食尚玩家 previously. Scroll to 8:00 for their recommendation. 

Continuation:

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Yanagawa River Punting Ride 柳川 川下り

Visited 16.03.2014 (Sun)

Crossed the Taiko bashi to get to Shogetsu Dock, the embarkation point for river punting ride.

Utilised Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket (太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ) offered by Ninshitetsu. River punting in Yanagawa is included in this package. From Yanagawa Ninshitetsu Station, exit and turn right to locate the punting information desk. A bus will ferry passengers to the river punting embarkation point at Shogetsu Dock (松月乗船場) which can be easily identified by a red arched Taiko bashi (太鼓橋).

Top left: Squeezed into Shirohori floodgate; Top right: Cafe located on the river bank.

Journey. Yanagawa is referred to as a city of waterways because of the 470 km long canals that run into the city. These canals were constructed surrounding the dysfunctional Yanagawa Castle, more than half a century ago. The punter moves the boat by pushing against the river bed with a long pole. The entire river punt ride takes slightly over an hour to complete; at a decent leisure pace. Punter would provide historical/cultural background of this city and would direct our attention to the scenery or buildings situated along the river bank every now and then - but all spoken in Japanese. The most "thrilling" moments of the punt ride were the times when the punt had to maneuver under the low ceiling bridges. As the boat approached these bridges, the punter would warn all on board passengers to put down their heads or lean forward, and punter himself would have to change from a standing to squat position skilfully and revert after the punt has reappeared from below the bridge every time. There are about 10 such bridges throughout the entire journey. The narrowest passageway was at Shirohori floodgate (城堀水門) where the punter had to adjust the position of the punt such that it would not knock against the stone walls. Passed by a riverside cafe which passengers could request to drop by to order drinks and snacks; plum trees with vibrant colours decorated the banks of the river during the early spring season; spotted ducks waddling leisurely alongside the boats. The disembarkation port is at Okihata; from here, you can make your way to Ohana Villa and Shoto-en, or visit the shophouses located along Inari machi (稲荷町) and Okinohata machi (沖端町).

Top left: Spotted blooming plum blossoms; Bottom right: Punter had to squat when moving beneath the low ceiling bridges.

Bottom left: Strolled down Inari machi and Okinohata machi, on opposite side of the river bank; Right: Disembarkation port.

Festival. Yanagawa celebrates Sagemon Meguri (Yanagawa's Hina Matsuri or Dolls' Festival) from mid February to end March. On the day of our visit, young girls and women, dressed in bright kimono and worn head dresses, rode on the river punts and passed by our punt in the opposite direction (later found out that this event is "Hina dolls water parade" which takes place on the 3rd Sunday of March every year). Colourful sagemon, which are ornaments such as balls, animals and dolls made out of clothes, are unique to Yanagawa and can be found strung together and hung across the canals during this period of time.

Adorable girls dressed in kimono and head dresses occupied rode on the river punts.

Colourful sagemon decorated the canals of Yanagawa.

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Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ

- Priced at 2,930 yen (adults), this ticket can be purchased from both Nishitetsu Tenjin and Yakuin Station. At Nishitetsu Tenjin Station, the ticket counter is located on the second floor, just outside the North Ticket Gate.
- Website (Japanese): http://www.ensen24.jp/kippu/1/; (English): http://www.nnr.co.jp/train/kippura/global/english/ticket/i_dazayana.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station 西鉄柳川駅, Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ

Yanagawa Station, on Tenjin Omuta line.
This train station is the gateway to Yanagawa, the city of waterways.

Nishitetsu Tenjin > Yanagawa 

- takes approx. 48 mins by limited express train;
- takes approx 106 mins by local train.

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Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ

-  If you plan to visit both Dazaifu and Yanagawa, I will recommend this sightseeing ticket offered by Nishitetsu. Priced at 2,930 yen (adults), this ticket can be purchased from both Nishitetsu Tenjin and Yakuin Station. At Nishitetsu Tenjin Station, the ticket counter is located on the second floor, just outside the North Ticket Gate.
- This package includes:

• Nishitetsu train round trip ticket
• Typical route taken: Tenjin/Yakuin > Yanagawa/Dazaifu > Dazaifu/Yanagawa > Tenjin/Yakuin
• With this ticket, you can only alight/board at Tenjin/Yakuin, Yanagawa and Dazaifu Station which are all operated by Nishitetsu. 
• What makes this ticket more attractive is that it can be used over a period of two days. Therefore, one can opt for the following itinerary to explore both places more extensively:
• Day 1: Tenjin > Yanagawa; Stay over in Yanagawa for the night
• Day 2: Yanagawa > Dazaifu > Tenjin
• Visited Yanagawa in the day and left after 3 pm. Though I completed the river punting earlier in the day, I visited two other cafes/restaurants after that which explained why a huge portion of the day was spent in Yanagawa. When I reached Dazaifu, I didn't have much time to explore the area sufficiently as it was nearing the closing hour of the shrine and shops. Could have managed my time better. 

Ferried to the river punting boarding point by bus. 

• River punting ticket in Yanagawa
• Upon reaching Yanagawa Station, make your way to punting information desk which is located along a row of shop houses on the right side of the train station (after exiting from the train station).  
• A bus will disembark in front of the information desk to ferry river punting passengers to the boarding point, Shogetsu Punting Station (松月乗船場).
• River cruise takes about an hour or so. 
• Special discount coupons such as
• 50 yen discount on admission fee to Ohana Villa in Yanagawa
• 50 yen discount on Yangawa Nishitetsu taxi
• 100 yen discount on steamed eel rice - restricted to Rokkyu (民芸茶屋六騎) and Unagi no Fuki (うなぎの富貴) restaurant. 
• Rokkyu: http://www.yanagawakk.co.jp/rokkyu.html
• Unagi no Fuki: http://unaginofuuki.com/
• 100 yen discount on admission fee to Dazaifu Amusement Park
• 100 yen discount on bicycle rental at Dazaifu Station

Website (Japanese): http://www.ensen24.jp/kippu/1/; (English) http://www.nnr.co.jp/train/kippura/global/english/ticket/i_dazayana.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 2 Itinerary: Fukuoka 福岡 (Yanagawa 柳川, Dazaifu 太宰府)

Day 2: 16.03.2014

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine

Breakfast: Ueshima Coffee 上島珈琲 @ Hakata JR Station

Hakata 博多> Tenjin 天神
by subway, via Kuko line. Fee = 250 yen.

Walked to Nishitetsu Tenjin Station.

Bought Nishitetsu Dazaifu & Yanagawa Sightseeing Pack 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ.
Fee = 2,800 yen. [2,930 yen from 1 Apr 2014 onwards]

Nishitetsu Tenjin > Nishitetsu Yanagawa 西鉄柳川駅
by limited express train via Omuta line.

Nishitetsu Yanagawa > Shogetsu Dock 松月乗船場　
by free shuttle bus.

River Punting from Shogetsu Dock > Okihata

Tea break: 红茶の店 River Flow

Lunch: Unagi no seiro mushi at Motoyoshiya 吉本屋

Nishitetsu Yanagawa > Futsukuchi > Dazaifu 太宰府駅
transfer from Omuta line to Dazaifu line.

Visited Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天満宮.

Tea break: Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店　

Dazaifu > Futsukuchi > Nishitetsu Tenjin
transfer from Dazaifu line to Omuta line.

Dinner: Tetsunabe 鉄なべ @ Tenjin Parco

Tenjin > Hakata
by subway, via Kuko Line. Fee = 250 yen.

- End of Day 2 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)

Visited 15.03.2014

Right: Raw chicken ham.

Have you ever eaten Bijin Nabe (beauty hot pot) in Singapore? This Japanese style chicken hot pot has become increasingly popular since it was introduced here a few years ago. The highlight is the rich and flavorful chicken collagen soup. Chicken bones are fully dissolved in a stock cooked for more than 8 hours. Tasty and moist chicken meat and a good variety of organic vegetables are simmered together in the milky beauty collagen soup. So far, I have eaten this once in Singapore and have always wanted to visit it again. In fact, Tsukada Nojo, the name of the restaurant offering this hot pot dish, originated from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu. 

Raw chicken? A similar version of Bijin Nabe can be found in in Hakata. It is called Mizutaki or chicken hot pot and is a specialty dish offered in numerous restaurants here in Hakata. Chose Hanamidori, one of the most established names with about 10 branches just within Fukuoka. Hanamidori has their own chicken poultry farms to ensure the best quality chicken can be served on the tables.  Came to this branch located nearby Hakata Miyako Hotel. Very comfortable setting, well illuminated and wooden blinds are pulled down between tables to create a personal space for diners. Hanamidori offers various set courses catered to different budget and we decided to go for the Aji course (味コース). The set course comprised of appetisers, raw chicken ham, seared chicken, chicken broth hot pot and rice. What baffled me most in the menu was raw chicken meat. The first question that pops up in everyone's mind: is it even safe to eat raw meat in the first place? Most of us should have eaten uncooked chicken meat unintentionally during BBQ and steamboat sessions, and raw meat is very chewy and unpalatable. However, the thinly sliced raw chicken ham served by Hanamidori has a firm texture and tasted much better than I thought - just like any ham I had before. Passed my taste test.

Mizutaki. Before we begin eating the chicken broth hot pot, waitress scooped a small of cup of chicken broth sprinkled with chopped spring onions for each of us to drink. The soup was luscious - "unami" of chicken broth broke out instantaneously in our mouths on the every first sip! Handmade meat balls, liver (which my parents liked very much) and vegetables elevated the flavours of the soup further. Hanamidori's signature ponzu sauce is an important condiment for the meat - the slightly sour taste whet the appetite and went well with the moist chicken meat. Just when you thought the set course was completed after all the ingredients in the soup were eaten, the waitress proceeded to create a porridge with the remaining soup and beat an raw egg into it as well. Slurped up the entire bowl of porridge as soon as it was served to us - a gesture to show that we enjoyed this entire chicken feast very much.

Looks like Mizutaki has topped the list of food I will want to eat again in Kyushu!  

Do you know? Hanamidori has opened an overseas branch in Singapore, currently located in Plaza Singapura. Have yet to pay this restaurant a visit. With the success of Bijin Nabe in Singapore I believe the reception to Hanamidori should be pretty decent as well.
Website: https://www.hanamidori.com.sg/

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Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)
福岡市博多区博多駅東1-13-31　駅東サンシティビル1F
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 0000 hrs
http://www.hanamidori.net/

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Video: Restaurant was featured in 食尚玩家. Scroll to 42:00 for their recommendation on the restaurant.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)

Visited 15.03.2014

I have not developed to become a ramen lover despite being to Japan multiple times over the past few years. Personally, I find the soup too salty for my liking on most occasions. However, this trip to Kyushu changed my impression of ramen totally. Hakata is famous for ramen and there are many established brands to choose from. So far, Ichiran Ramen is one of the few that conquered my taste buds. 

Unique dining experience. Headed down to Ichiran Ramen for our first meal in Kyushu. Came the flagship store near Nakasu Kawabata subway station. Purchased a meal coupon at the automated ticket machine and joined the queue. While waiting, the staff passed us a piece of paper (available in English as well) each to indicate our preferred bowl of ramen, such as soup richness and flavour, texture of noodles, addition of Ichiran's original spicy sauce, condiments such as garlic and green onions. Tables here are all counter seats but each seat is separated by dividers thus creating a private space for every customer. Once seated, both meal coupon and paper were passed to the staff through a small window in front of the table. After my customised bowl of ramen was delivered through the window, the staff pulled down the window blind as a gesture that meal order has been completed.



Not sure whether it was due to the fact that this bowl of ramen was prepared based on my preference, the first bite of the noodles and sip of the soup hit the right spot instantaneously! Pork based broth was rich in collagen, very smooth and flavourful, to the point that I drank up the entire bowl. Personally, I preferred the thinner noodles that were served here too - cooked to the right texture I wanted. Every mouthful is packed with unami and it took less than 10 minutes to gobble down this satisfying bowl of ramen. In the end, I bought a few packets of noodles at Fukuoka Airport, hoping to revive this wholesome taste back at home. To my dismay, it still doesn't taste as good as my first encounter with Ichiran Ramen.

Back at home, I find Ippudo Ramen, another famous brand which originated from Hakata, quite similar to Ichiran Ramen in terms of taste - pork based broth and thin noodles. Therefore, I patronise Ippudo occasionally when the cravings for ramen set in. Though subconsciously, I still find Ichiran Ramen better. Hope to witness the day when Ichiran Ramen comes to Singapore! 

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Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)
〒810-0801　福岡県福岡市博多区中洲5-3-2

Opens 24 hours.
http://www.ichiran.co.jp/english/html/q_nakasu.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

Stayed 15.03.2014 - 17.03.2014 (2 days)
Booked thru' Booking.com

- There are always many accommodation options near major train stations. Hakata was the first and last stop of my 12 days trip in Kyushu. Stayed in two different hotels - Hakata Miyako Hotel and JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo, located within walking distance from East (Chikusi) and West exit of the train station. 

- Take the escalator up to second level where the hotel lobby is located. A cafe can be found on the same floor. Booked a twin room (without breakfast) at 23,408 yen (~ 293 SGD) for two nights. Was satisfied with my stay here: reasonably sized room with walking space and equipped with all basic amenities. Convenient location makes this hotel a popular choice for travellers. 

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What's nearby?

(1) Hakata JR Station, the busiest train station and gateway to other parts of Kyushu.

(2) Fukuoka city subway: Hakata Station (K11), on Kuko line (orange line)
- 3 stops away from Tenjin Station (K08). Transfer to Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu and Yanagawa.
- 2 stops away from Fukuoka Domestic Terminal (K13).

(3) JR Hakata City, connected seamlessly to the train station.
- Houses two shopping malls: AMU Plaza and Hankyu.
- Tokyu Hands is located near West exit of train station. Visit its first floor to shop for exclusive Kyushu souvenirs and JR Kyushu merchandises.
- Many fast food outlets, cafes and restaurants to choose from. Settled our breakfast at the train station on both days.

(4) Yodobashi-Hakata, well known electronics chain store in Japan.
- Exit from East (Chikusi) exit and turn right.
- g.u. (same owner as Uniqlo) and ABC Mart are located within the same building.

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Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

〒812－0013 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅東2-1-1（博多）

http://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/hakata/
Less than 2 mins walk from East exit (Chikusi exit).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata JR Station 博多駅, JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Kyushu & All Kyushu)

Hakata JR Station - East exit (Chikusi exit)

Hakata JR Station, the biggest (and busiest) train station in Kyushu.
Easily accessible by both subway from Fukuoka Airport and by Shinkansen from Honshu, Hakata JR Station serves as a gateway for many to other parts of Kyushu.

Main lines include:
(1) Kagoshima main line - travel northwards to Kokura, southwards to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(2) Kyushu Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(3) Sanyo Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Shin Osaka. Operated by JR West. 

(4) Kuko line of Fukuoka City Subway.

Special sightseeing & limited express trains departing from Hakata JR Station include:
(1) Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch - connects Hakata to Huis Ten Bosch, a European theme park located in Nagasaki prefecture.

(2) Ltd Express Kamome - connects Hakata to Saga and Nagasaki.

(3) Ltd Express Midori - connects Hakata to Saga and Sasebo.

(4) Ltd Express Sonic - connects Hakata to Oita and Beppu.

(5) Yufuin no mori - connects Hakata to Yufuin and Beppu.

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What's nearby? 

Hakata JR Station - West exit

(1) Shopping malls
- JR Hakata City, the building just above the train station, comprises of both AMU Plaza and Hankyu. For Tokyu Hands fans, you will be glad to know that there is one branch conveniently located here. Do check out their ground floor which has a section dedicated to Kyushu souvenirs - a good place to source for last minute gifts/merchandises.
- Yodobashi is located adjacent to the train station.
JR Hakata City: http://www.jrhakatacity.com/english/

(2) Numerous hotels to choose from.
Stayed at two different hotels during this trip.
- Hakata Miyako Hotel, 2 mins walk from east exit (Chikusi exit) of train station.
- JR Blossom Hakata Chuo Hotel, 2 mins walk from west exit of train station.

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JR Kyushu Rail Pass

- There are two different types of rail passes, both available in 3 and 5 days:   

(1) Northern Kyushu area, can only be used in Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki and Kumamoto 

(2) All Kyushu area

JR Kyushu: http://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/railpass.html

- Restrictions: Do note that this pass cannot be used on the Shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura, which is operated by JR West.

- Purchase: Rail pass can be purchased at main train stations in Kyushu (e.g. Kokura, Hakata, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, Oita, Saga, Kagoshima, Miyazaki, etc). In Hakata JR Station, there is a counter, served by English speaking staff, specially arranged for foreigners. After purchase of rail pass, you can proceed to make seats reservations immediately without having to queue again.  

- Be prepared! The only way to reap the most benefit/credits out from these rail passes is to do homework/research prior to purchase. Plan your itinerary and make use of Hyperdia to check the train fares between locations, then decide which pass suits you best. This pass can be used on Shinkansen, limited express and local trains operated by JR Kyushu and most importantly, no additional fees are required for seat reservations!
Hyperdia: http://www.hyperdia.com/

- One of the reasons to why train rides are so appealing in Kyushu is its seasonal sightseeing trains! Most of them operates on weekends and certain months, making only 1 - 3 trips per day, therefore it is advised to make reservations in advance to avoid disappointment.

- Was glad to know that in the second half of March, most of these sightseeing trains were also operating on weekdays due to cherry blooming season. Planned the ride of these sightseeing trains on the later half of my 12 days trip, as I would only purchase the rail pass and reserve seats on the day I arrive - thought I would stand a better chance to get my seats on these trains. Despite that effort made, some of the more popular train timings were already fully booked. Had to tweak my itinerary on the spot to fit in less popular train timings. Do have a backup plan in place, in anticipation for such last minute changes.

A good reference to find out past seasonal trains schedule: http://jprail.com/

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My sums:

(1) Northern Kyushu area 5 Days rail pass: 9,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: Hakata > Takeo Onsen, by Ltd Exp Midori; 3,000 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 2: Takeo Onsen > Huis Ten Bosch, by Ltd Exp Huis Ten Bosch; 1,730 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 3: 
• Huis Ten Bosch > Sasebo, by local train; 270 yen
• Sasebo > Nagasaki, by Seaside Liner; 1,600 yen
• Day 4: 
• Nagasaki > Shintosu, by Ltd Exp Kamome &
• Shintosu > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,700 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 5: Kumamoto > Aso by Aso Boy; 2,180 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 16,480 yen
Savings = 7,480 yen (45% discount)


(2) All Kyushu area 5 days rail pass: 17,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: -
• Day 2: 
• Yufuin > Kurume, by Yufuin no mori &
• Kurume > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,160 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 3: 
• Kumamoto > Hitoyoshi, by SL Hitoyoshi; 2,570 yen (reserved seat)
• Hitoyoshi > Yoshimatsu, by Isaburo; 1,220 yen (reserved seat)
• Yoshimatsu > Kagoshima chuo; by Hayato no kaze; 2,430 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 4: Kagoshima chuo > Ibusuki by Ibusuki no tamatebako; 2,070 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 5: 
• Ibusuki > Kagoshima chuo, by local train; 970 yen
• Kagoshima chuo > Hakata, by Shinkansen; 10,170 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 26,590 yen

Savings = 9,590 yen (36% discount)

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Commemorative stamp: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Arrival & Departure, Fukuoka Airport 福岡空港

Day 1: 15.03.2014

Day 13: 27.03.2014

Arrival: SIN T3 (0110 hrs) > FUK Int Terminal (0825 hrs) by SQ656

Departure: FUK Int Terminal (1000 hrs) > SIN T2 (1535 hrs) by SQ655

Currently only SQ has direct flights from Singapore Changi Airport to Fukuoka Airport in Kyushu. Others will require a connecting flight to reach Kyushu. 

Kyushu is made up of seven prefectures (Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Kagoshima and Miyazaki) and there is a airport in every prefecture. There are regular domestic flights between Haneda Airport and the airport in each prefecture, which means one do not necessarily have to depart from the same airport that you arrive in. 

Fukuoka Airport website: http://www.fuk-ab.co.jp/english/

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Travelling between Fukuoka Airport <> main city: 

(1) Subway: 
Fukuoka domestic airport and Hakata is separated by only one subway station and the travelling time takes less than 10 minutes! For passengers shuffling between domestic and international terminals, there are free regular shuttle bus services, every 5 - 8 minutes, commuting between these terminals.  

Fukuoka City Subway website: http://subway.city.fukuoka.lg.jp/eng/index.html
Hakata (K11) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen 
Tenjin (K08) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen

(2) Bus: 
Direct buses to Hakata/Tenjin are available at both international and domestic terminals and depart every half hourly. Took the bus at bus stop #2 and alighted at Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit. 

Nishitetsu bus website: http://www.nishitetsu.jp/en/access/
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Hakata, fee = 260 yen, approx 18 mins
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Tenjin, fee = 310 yen, approx 33 mins

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Commemorative stamp: