Thursday, October 12, 2017

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Motsuji 毛越寺

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)



World Heritage site. After visiting Genbikei 厳美渓, I made my way next to Hiraizumi-cho 平泉町 by bus to cover two more places of interest - Motsuji 毛越寺 and Chusonji 中尊寺, both were designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2011. 

Background. Even though Motsuji was first founded in 850 by Ennin 円仁 (Jikaku Dashi 慈覚大師), most of the original halls were built in the 12th century by Motohira 基衡, the second generation Oshu Fujiwara lord 奥州藤原氏. In its heyday, there were forty temples and pagodas and over five hundred priest quarters and it was said that the magnificence of its halls was unparalleled. However, the original buildings were destroyed by fires after the downfall of Oshu Fujiwara clan, leaving behind the foundation remains and Jodo-teien 浄土庭園 (or Pure Land Garden). Fortunately, these remains were maintained in good condition making it possible to imagine how these halls would have looked like at that point of time. Oizumi ga ike 大泉が池, a large pond in Jodo-teien, is also carefully preserved and has become the main focal point of Motsuji. Overall, its rich historical value and beautiful landscaping features make Motsuji deserving of the titles of Special Historical Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty.

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Entrance to Motsuji.
Remains of Kondo (main hall).
Remains of Shoro (bell tower).
Highlights

After purchasing the ticket and passed through the main gate, I followed the directional signs to explore Motsuji. The route goes in a clockwise direction running along the circumference of Ozumi ga ike 大泉が池, which measures 90 m from north to south and 180 m from east to west. The design of the garden itself is representative of Heian period style. Using the pond as the reference point, the remains of the main hall (Kondo 金堂), its bell tower (Shoro 鐘楼) and sutra repository tower (Kyoro 経楼) are located to its north while the remains of the South Gate (Nandaimon) is situated on its south. The pond has two islands (the biggest one named Nakajima 中島 which is curved like a comma), one peninsula on the southeast shore and three peninsulas on the south shore. It was also said that the Kondo, Nakajima and Nandaimon were once linked together by a bridge (check out a pictorial representation of how Motsuji looked like in the past on its website).





After entering the premises, this is the first building that lies straight ahead. Hondo 本堂 is a Heian style temple built in 1989, with distinctive vermilion coloured pillars and roof. Bhaisajyaguru 薬師如来 (or Medicine Buddha) is worshipped in the temple.





Kaisando 開山堂, a rustic looking wooden building, is a hall dedicated to Jikaku Dashi, the founder of Motsuji. In front of Kaisando, there are small plots of land where irises donated by Meiji Jingu are planted, and the best time to admire the blooming flowers is between mid June to mid July.



Another prominent landmark in the garden is Jogyodo 常行堂, situated northeast from the pond. The current structure was rebuilt in 1732 to pray for continued luck in the fortunes of war for the lord of Sendai, Date Yoshimura 伊達吉村. The wooden hall has a pyramidal roof and Amitaba 阿弥陀如来 is the primary object of worship here.





Nearby Jogyodo, there is a small winding stream which replenishes the water of the pond. Named Yarimizu 遣水, the stream was unearthed during the excavation and research of the garden and its design followed the style mentioned by Sakuteiki 作庭記, the oldest published Japanese text on garden making which traces its history as far as 11th century.





Serene and tranquil. It takes less than an hour to walk one lap around the pond. Overall, I cherish the serenity and tranquility experienced in Motsuji and this place is almost analogous to a safe haven in my opinion. I was also impressed by the wonders of landscaping as it made the pond and the garden so aesthetically appealing to look at from various angles; clear reflection of its surroundings can be beautifully captured on the still waters of the pond. Personally, I prefer Motsuji more than Chusonji - its subtle beauty is unexpectedly captivating and this place is truly worthy of its conferred title as a Place of Scenic Beauty.





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Motsuji 毛越寺
〒029-4102 岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉字大沢58
Operating hours: 0830 - 1700 hrs; 0830 - 1630 hrs (5 Nov - 3 Apr)
Admission fee = 500 yen
http://www.motsuji.or.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) By bus.
- From Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅 bus stop, board Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run 平泉巡回バス 「るんるん」, a loop service operating from Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前, Motsuji 毛越寺, Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, Chusonji 中尊寺, Muryoko-in ato 無量光院跡 and eventually returning to Hiraizumi Ekimae and alight at Motsuji.
- From Genbikei 厳美渓, board Genbikei / Takkoku / Hirazumi line 厳美渓・達谷・平泉線 and alight at Motsuji.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ichinoseki_hiraizumi.html



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Commemorative stamp:




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