Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Zuihoden Mausoleum 瑞鳳殿

Visited 12.05.2016 (Thu)



Heritage tour. On my first visit to Sendai, I felt that I did not explore this capital city of Miyagi Prefecture well enough (in fact I only visited Sendai Anpanman Museum and Shopping Mall). Decided to make it up this time round and picked two heritage sites to visit during my stay in Sendai, both related to Date Masamune 伊達政宗, one of the most influential feudal lord of the Date clan in the 17th century. Hopped onto Loople Sendai るーぷる仙台 (Sendai city's sightseeing loop bus) from the bus terminal on the west exit of Sendai JR Station heading for my first destination - Zuihoden 瑞鳳殿.

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Highlights / Background:

Influential. Date Masamune (1567 - 1636) was the first feudal lord of Sendai Domain during the Edo period. Due to his missing eye and remarkable military feat, Date Masamume earned the name "Dokuganryu" (独眼竜 single eye dragon). Under his rule, he make countless contributions such as the building of Sendai Castle at the age of 35, developing plains for rice cultivation and even invested in trading with Spain.



Holy ground. Kyogamine hill 経ヶ峰 is a holy ground for Date clan since this is where the tombs of Date Masamune, the 2nd (Date Tadamune 伊達忠宗), 3rd (Date Tsunamune 伊達綱宗), 9th and 11th feudal lords and their children were erected in. From the bus stop where Loople Sendai stops, visitors will have to ascend a slop followed by stone paved stairs, lined with sturdy cedar trees which are at least 380 years old, on its sides, before arriving at the ticket counter. There are a total of three mausoleums in the entire compound: Zuihoden 瑞鳳殿 (tomb of Date Masamune), Kansenden 感仙殿 (tomb of Date Tadamune) and Zen-oden 善応殿 (tomb of Date Tsunamune). Both Zuihoden and Kansenden were designated national treasures in 1931 for its Momoyama architecture style. Unfortnately, all three mausoleums were burnt down by air raids in 1945. Reconstruction began in 1974 to reinstate the mausoleums and this was eventually completed in 1985.




Zuihoden. The tour began at Nehanmon 涅槃門, the main gate of Zuihoden. The original gate had similar fate as the mausoleum and the current one was rebuilt from Aomori Hiba trees, that were several hundred years old. The gate was also decorated with elaborate carvings identical to its original state. In the compound of Zuihoden, apart from the mausoleum which houses the tomb of Date Masamune, there is a museum which showcases precious, excavated artifacts that were buried in the original tombs and replicated figures of the three feudal lords. The mausoleum has a pyramid type roof with edges gently curved upwards. With black utilised as the base colour, the mausoleum is embellished with beaming gold paint, colourful and exquisite carvings and emblems. The strong colour contrast, immaculate architecture and finely detailed decoration gave the mausoleum a glorious and luxurious feel. Spent a longer time than expected here to admire the intricate carvings of the lion head, phoenix and deities “guarding” the mausoleum.





Kansenden and Zen-oden. Moved on to Kansenden and Zen-oden which were both located on a different site from Zuihoden, but side by side each other. Kansenden 感仙殿 is the mausoleum of Date Tadamune (1599 - 1658), the 2nd feudal lord of Sendai Domain and the second son of Date Masamune. Zen-oden 善応殿 is the mausoleum of Date Tsunamune (1640 - 1711), the 3rd feudal lord of Sendai Domain and the sixth son of Date Tadamune. Though all three mausoleums are identical in terms of architectural style, Zuihoden has the most decorated carvings out of the three. Overall, I enjoyed the process of scrutinising the fine details displayed on the mausoleums, trying to spot the difference between them while being surrounded by lush greenery and tranquility. Apart from being an impressive architectural masterpiece to marvel at, Zuihoden is a place for younger generation to pay their respect to these historical figures who have contributed to the development of Sendai city.





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Zuihoden Mausoleum 瑞鳳殿
宮城県仙台市青葉区霊屋《おたまや》下23-2
Operating hours:
- Feb to Nov: 0900 - 1630 hrs
- Dec to Jan: 0900 - 1600 hrs
Admission fee = 550 yen
* 100 yen discount with one day Loople Sendai pass るーぷる仙台一日乗車券 or one day pass for Loople Sendai and Sendai Subway るーぷる仙台・地下鉄共通一日乗車券
https://www.zuihoden.com/

How to get there?

(1) By Loople Sendai bus るーぷる仙台バス.
Board the Loople Sendai bus from Bus stop / Platform 16 at Sendai JR Station West Exit Bus Terminal and alight at Zuihoden Mausoleum mae 瑞鳳殿前. Bus ride takes approx 15 minutes.



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