Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 7 Itinerary: Aso 阿蘇, Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉

Day 7: 21.03.2014
* Day 5 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

Kurokawa Onsen

Breakfast: Mitsui Garden Hotel 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Karashi machi 辛島町 > Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1026 hrs) > Aso JR Station 阿蘇駅 (1149 hrs)
by Aso Boy 101.

Lunch: Ekiben on board Aso Boy train

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Aso JR Station 阿蘇駅 > Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅
by Sanko Bus 阿蘇火口線. Fee = 540 yen. (650 yen from 1 Apr 2014 onwards)

Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅 > Kako Nishi eki 火口西駅
by bus (ropeway not in operation). Fee = 1,200 yen (round trip).

Visited Mt Aso 阿蘇山.

Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅 (1440 hrs) > Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉 (1531 hrs)
by Sanko Bus 九州横断バス. Fee = 1,600 yen

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Check in: Ryokan Wakaba わかば

Tea break: Glutinous rice balls at Shirotamakko 白玉っ子

Dinner: Ryokan Wakaba わかば

- End of Day 7 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Okada Coffee 岡田珈琲

Visited 20.03.2014

In actual fact, this is not my first time to Okada Coffee because I have been to its branch in Singapore, which has been around quite some time ago. Had their high tea set and signature Mont Blanc cake on several visits and I am quite pleased with the food so far. Told myself I have to pay this cafe a visit if I ever come to Kumamoto next time. Originated in 1945, Okada Coffee has been around in Kumamoto for 70 years and has established several branches within this prefecture as well.

Came to the main branch located in Kami Tori after dinner. A two storey shop house - first floor sells a variety of coffee beans, sweets and biscuits while the cafe is located on the second floor. Took the counter seats as the rest of the tables in the cafe were occupied. Despite the small space, wooden furnishings, dimmed lighting and usage of English style tableware, created a nostalgic and cosy atmosphere for diners.

Taste test. Ordered a slice of roll cake and Mont Blanc cake, accompanied with coffee and tea. Mont Blanc cake did not disappoint at all - crispy base topped with fragrant chestnut mousse and filling. In terms of taste, I find it quite similar to what they offered in Singapore. Roll cake was moist, wrapped with sweet and smooth chestnut cream - a perfect dessert to go with coffee/tea. Overall, this was on par with the Singapore's branch though I was actually expecting more from this visit. Nevertheless, still glad to know that the quality of food & beverages are not compromised in their overseas branches.

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Okada Coffee (Kami Tori Main Branch) 岡田珈琲 (上通本店)
〒860-0845 熊本市上通り1-20
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs
http://www.okada-coffee.com/

How to get there?
Take Kumamoto Streetcar (Route A from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Torichosuji 通町筋. Look out for Kami Tori covered walkway and Okada Coffee is the second shop on the left.

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Okada Coffee Singapore Branch
100 Tras St, 100 AM building (Shopping complex connected to Amara Hotel), #03-23.
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2200 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Keika Ramen 桂花ラメん

Visited 20.03.2014

My impression of ramen was changed totally after eating Ichiran ramen in Hakata. Finally I've finally found one that suit my taste in Japan. In Kumamoto, a slightly different type of ramen is served. Similar to Hakata style, pork broth is used as the soup base. What is unique about Kumamoto ramen is fried garlic is infused into the milky pork broth to elevate its rich flavour. 

Decided to indulge in the local ramen on my first night in Kumamoto. Keika Ramen is a local brand that has been around for more than half a decade and has opened several branches in Kumamoto, Fukuoka and Tokyo. Got to know later that they have ventured overseas, with three shops established in Singapore too. On this night, we visited the main shop located in Hanabatacho 花畑町. 

A hearty bowl of Kumamoto ramen.

Ordered their original ramen and a plate of gyoza. The fragrance of fried garlic immediately hit me when my bowl of noodles was arrived. Thick noodles was used and was served together with a few slices of char siew, bamboo shoots, shallots and a half egg (not the usual soft boiled egg). Rich and milky white pork broth was mixed with fried garlic oil, turning the soup slightly golden brown in colour. The first sip of soup did hit the right spot as I am a fan of garlic. However, felt that the soup base was still on the saltier side for me. Nevertheless, this is still a good hearty bowl of ramen to satisfy a hungry stomach. Gyozas was wrapped with juicy meat fillings and so far (at least for me), this side dish has never failed to make the entire meal complete. 

I have also patronised Keika Ramen in Singapore (branch in Takashimaya) on a later date. Was hoping that the flavours could be replicated here (with the saltiness reduced to suit Singaporeans' tastebuds?), but I felt the fried garlic flavor was lacking in the soup and that was to me the most important element behind its delicious taste.   

Keika Ramen in Singapore: http://keika-raumen.co.jp/shop_kaigai.html#kaigai2

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Keika Ramen (Kumamoto Main Branch) 桂花ラメん 熊本県本店
熊本市中央区花畑町11-9　K-1ビル
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2400 hrs (Mon - Thu); 1100 - 0145 hrs (Fri, Sat); 1100 - 2000 hrs (Sun)
http://keika-raumen.co.jp/

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Mitsui Garden Hotel Kumamoto 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Stayed 20.03.2014, 23.03.2014
Booked via Rakuten Travel

Kumamon craze. Japan is truly a land of mascots, each has its own distinct features which are associated with the place or thing it is promoting. Kumamon, a black plump bear with red cheeks, stood out valiantly from the rest. This mascot was first created to promote the extension of Kyushu Shinkansen to Kagoshima in 2011. Its popularity was unprecedented to the point it was even appointed the ambassador of Kumamoto, making domestic and overseas trips to promote Kyushu. Kumamon can be spotted everywhere within the city - on posters, banners, sign boards, etc. His contribution to revive tourism in Kyushu has "earned" him an office in the city too (Kumamon Square located in Tsuruya Departmental Store)!

His popularity has brought along numerous business opportunities - an extensive line up of merchandise are continuously being churned out and local hotels are offering Kumamon themed rooms to boost occupancy rates. So far from what I have seen, The New Otani has the most elaborate Kumamon themed room and is also the most pricey (15,000 yen/person) among all.
The New Otani website: http://www.newotani-kumamoto.co.jp/event/pickupkumamon/

Was hoping to stay in a themed room but did not want to splurge too much on it. Fortunately, I discovered a cheaper option to get close to this black bear. Mitsui Garden Hotel, which is located closer to the busier hub of Kumamoto city, offers similar themed room with simpler design at a much affordable rate. 

Highlights:

- Booked a Kumamon themed twin room (inclusive breakfast) for 11,600 yen, and a normal twin room for 11,000 yen. Stayed in this hotel on two separate nights (Day 6 and 9). Similar business hotel model, all rooms are equipped with basic amenities, sufficient for a pleasant night stay.  

- Kumamon themed room. A conventional twin room was decorated with numerous Kumamon goods. The first object that caught my attention upon entering the room was this huge Kumamon plushie which sat at the work station/dressing table. Kumamon cushions are placed on the beds and rest chairs. Beds were also decorated with runners will various expressions of Kumamon. Moved on to the bathroom and saw a shower curtain imprinted with Kumamon! In addition, mugs, complimentary mineral water bottles and clear files, pictures hung in the room, were all embedded with this lovable mascot. Though decoration was not very detailed, the ambience can still bring out that sense of excitement from guests (regardless of age) occupying the room for the night.

- Breakfast was buffet style and a mix of Western and Japanese dishes were served. Lotus root stuffed with spicy mustard and miso and fried in yellow batter (also known as Karashi Renkon), created from a traditional recipe which is said to have originated more than 300 years ago, was also spotted on the breakfast table. Overall, dinning experience was satisfactory.

Karashi Renkon

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Mitsui Garden Hotel Kumamoto 三井ガーデンホテル熊本
〒860-0012　熊本市中央区紺屋今町1-20
http://www.gardenhotels.co.jp/kumamoto/

How to get there?

(1) City Tram (Line A) - board at Kumamato JR Station and alight at Karashimacho (辛島町). A 5 min walk from the tram station.

(2) Taxi - takes about 5 mins from Kumamoto JR Station.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅, Kumamoto City Tram 熊本市電

Kumamoto JR Station, serves both the local trains and Kyushu Shinkansen.

Main lines include:
(1) Kagoshima main line - travel northwards to Hakata and southwards to Kagoshima.

(2) Misumi line - connecting Kumamoto to Misumi.

(3) Hohi main line - connecting Kumamoto to Oita.

(4) Kyushu Shinkansen line - connecting Kumamoto to Hakata and Kagoshima.

Special sightseeing & limited express trains departing from/passing by Kumamoto JR Station include:
(1) 'A' train - commutes between Kumamoto and Misumi, along Misumi line.

(2) Aso Boy train - commutes between Kumamoto and Miyaji, along Hohi main line.

(3) SL Hitoyoshi - commutes between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi, along Kagoshima main line and Hisatsu line.

(4) Kyushu Odan Tokkyu - commutes between Beppu and Hitoyoshi, passing by Kumamoto.

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What's nearby?

Kumamoto ekimae tram station

(1) Kumamoto City Tram 熊本市電
- Take the tram from the train station to the busier district of Kumamoto city at Torichosuji (通町筋) and Suidoucho (水道町).
- To visit Kumamoto Castle, alight at Kumamoto Castle/City Hall stop (熊本城.市役所前).
- Each trip cost 150 yen, regardless of the number of stops travelled.
- One day unlimited tram ride pass cost 400 yen. Can be purchased from Tourist Information Counter in Kumamoto JR Station.

- Kumamoto City Tram has two lines and both meet at Karashimacho (辛島町):
A line (Red) - tram commutes between Tasakibashi (田崎橋) and Kengunmachi (健軍町), passes by Kumamoto JR Station.
B line (Blue) - tram commutes between  Kami Kumamoto Ekimae (上熊本駅前) and Kengunmachi (健軍町).

Map: http://www.kotsu-kumamoto.jp/common/UploadFileDsp.aspx?c_id=9&id=2&set_doc=1

(2) Ekimachi 1-chome えきまえ１丁目
Make up of restaurants, fast food outlets and souvenir shops, all housed within the train station. Here you can drop by Keika Ramen to taste Kumamoto style ramen and visit familiar fast food outlets such as MOS Burger and Yoshinoya. A huge collection of merchandise featuring Kumamon, the adorable mascot of Kyushu, is made available in a handful of souvenir shops here.
Website: http://ekimachi1-kumamoto.com/

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Commemorative stamp:

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Attic アティック, Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－

Visited 20.03.2014

Left: Turkish rice

Turkish rice? As much as possible I will search for unique and famous gourmet originated from that particular area I am visiting. In Nagasaki Precfecture, the top three food on my list were Sasebo's burger, Champon noodles (or Chinese cuisine) and Castella cake. There is one more food which has an intriguing name, called Turkish rice. This dish totally aroused my curiosity because I could not relate Turkey to Nagasaki at all. 

Fusion yet separate entities. Made up of three components: fired pork cutlet (and fried ebi sometimes), Neapolitan spaghetti and saffron rice topped with curry. Despite the name, this dish did not originate from Turkey. I have read various stories explaining the origin of this name. When this dish was first introduced, it only has saffron rice, which is a Turish style of cooking. The side dishes (pork cutlet and spaghetti) were included on one fine day after patrons demanded more variety to be added to this dish. This expanded combination was well-received by locals and later became one of Nagasaki's signature gourmet. 

Enjoy the scenic view from Dejima Wharf; Background: Mt Inasa

Dropped by Dejima Wharf, our last stop in Nagasaki. Opened in 2000, Dejima Wharf is made up of a row of two storey shop houses with about 20 restaurants and shops. So happened to spot this restaurant, Attic, which served this local specialty. Decided to give it a try since it was time for lunch too. Serving was big making it quite worth the bucks, but the taste were not very impressive. It looks like food that will appear on my buffet plate (mixture of noodles and rice). Saffron rice, Neapolitan sauce and curry sauce, all have strong flavours and did not blend well together on a single plate. Not quite sure what is the rave behind this dish but I'm pretty sure this place did not serve the best Turkish rice in Nagasaki. Can only hope to taste this dish again from a different restaurant if I ever visit this city again. 

Anyone has a better recommendation?

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Attic アティック   
長崎県長崎市出島町1-1 長崎出島ワーフ1F美術館側
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2300 hrs (Fri & Sat - open till 2330 hrs)
http://attic-coffee.com/

Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－
長崎市出島1-1-109
http://dejimawharf.com/

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How to get there?
(1) By Streetcar - Take line 1 and alight at Dejima. Less than 2 mins walk from streetcar stop.

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Video: Dejima Wharf and Attic were featured in 遇约九州, a Taiwan produced travel program promoting Kyushu. Scroll to 27:12 on their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Megane bashi 眼镜桥

Visited 20.03.2014

Megane bashi means "spectacle bridge" (megane = spectacles). This name was derived because when the two arches of the bridge and the reflection in the waters are seen together, it looks like a pair of spectacles. Megane bashi, which runs across Nakashima River, is the oldest stone bridge in Japan and is voted as the top three bridges in Japan, alongside Tokyo's Nihonbashi and Iwakuni's Kintaikyo. This bridge was built in 1634, and the construction was initiated by Mokusunyojo, who is second generation monk of Koufukuji Temple (興福寺). However, the original bridge was destroyed by a flood in 1982. The current standing bridge was reconstructed later on.

Heart shaped rock supposed to bless you in relationships if you can spot it!

Heart shaped stone. Pry your eyes open to search hard for this unique heart shaped stone embedded in the stone wall of the river bank. This has become a "must do" activity for visitors when they come to this attraction. Managed to spot this after some time and the location of the stone is not too far from Megane bashi. If this is not enough, there are other similar stones hidden within the footpaths in Glover Garden, another well-known attraction in Nagasaki city.

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How to get there? 
(1) By Streetcar - Take line 4 or 5 and alight at Nigiwai Bashi (賑橋) or Koukaido Mae (公会堂前). Less than 5 mins walk from either streetcar stop,