Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)

Visited 15.03.2014

Right: Raw chicken ham.

Have you ever eaten Bijin Nabe (beauty hot pot) in Singapore? This Japanese style chicken hot pot has become increasingly popular since it was introduced here a few years ago. The highlight is the rich and flavorful chicken collagen soup. Chicken bones are fully dissolved in a stock cooked for more than 8 hours. Tasty and moist chicken meat and a good variety of organic vegetables are simmered together in the milky beauty collagen soup. So far, I have eaten this once in Singapore and have always wanted to visit it again. In fact, Tsukada Nojo, the name of the restaurant offering this hot pot dish, originated from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu. 

Raw chicken? A similar version of Bijin Nabe can be found in in Hakata. It is called Mizutaki or chicken hot pot and is a specialty dish offered in numerous restaurants here in Hakata. Chose Hanamidori, one of the most established names with about 10 branches just within Fukuoka. Hanamidori has their own chicken poultry farms to ensure the best quality chicken can be served on the tables.  Came to this branch located nearby Hakata Miyako Hotel. Very comfortable setting, well illuminated and wooden blinds are pulled down between tables to create a personal space for diners. Hanamidori offers various set courses catered to different budget and we decided to go for the Aji course (味コース). The set course comprised of appetisers, raw chicken ham, seared chicken, chicken broth hot pot and rice. What baffled me most in the menu was raw chicken meat. The first question that pops up in everyone's mind: is it even safe to eat raw meat in the first place? Most of us should have eaten uncooked chicken meat unintentionally during BBQ and steamboat sessions, and raw meat is very chewy and unpalatable. However, the thinly sliced raw chicken ham served by Hanamidori has a firm texture and tasted much better than I thought - just like any ham I had before. Passed my taste test.

Mizutaki. Before we begin eating the chicken broth hot pot, waitress scooped a small of cup of chicken broth sprinkled with chopped spring onions for each of us to drink. The soup was luscious - "unami" of chicken broth broke out instantaneously in our mouths on the every first sip! Handmade meat balls, liver (which my parents liked very much) and vegetables elevated the flavours of the soup further. Hanamidori's signature ponzu sauce is an important condiment for the meat - the slightly sour taste whet the appetite and went well with the moist chicken meat. Just when you thought the set course was completed after all the ingredients in the soup were eaten, the waitress proceeded to create a porridge with the remaining soup and beat an raw egg into it as well. Slurped up the entire bowl of porridge as soon as it was served to us - a gesture to show that we enjoyed this entire chicken feast very much.

Looks like Mizutaki has topped the list of food I will want to eat again in Kyushu!  

Do you know? Hanamidori has opened an overseas branch in Singapore, currently located in Plaza Singapura. Have yet to pay this restaurant a visit. With the success of Bijin Nabe in Singapore I believe the reception to Hanamidori should be pretty decent as well.
Website: https://www.hanamidori.com.sg/

======

Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)
福岡市博多区博多駅東1-13-31　駅東サンシティビル1F
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 0000 hrs
http://www.hanamidori.net/

======

Video: Restaurant was featured in 食尚玩家. Scroll to 42:00 for their recommendation on the restaurant.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)

Visited 15.03.2014

I have not developed to become a ramen lover despite being to Japan multiple times over the past few years. Personally, I find the soup too salty for my liking on most occasions. However, this trip to Kyushu changed my impression of ramen totally. Hakata is famous for ramen and there are many established brands to choose from. So far, Ichiran Ramen is one of the few that conquered my taste buds. 

Unique dining experience. Headed down to Ichiran Ramen for our first meal in Kyushu. Came the flagship store near Nakasu Kawabata subway station. Purchased a meal coupon at the automated ticket machine and joined the queue. While waiting, the staff passed us a piece of paper (available in English as well) each to indicate our preferred bowl of ramen, such as soup richness and flavour, texture of noodles, addition of Ichiran's original spicy sauce, condiments such as garlic and green onions. Tables here are all counter seats but each seat is separated by dividers thus creating a private space for every customer. Once seated, both meal coupon and paper were passed to the staff through a small window in front of the table. After my customised bowl of ramen was delivered through the window, the staff pulled down the window blind as a gesture that meal order has been completed.



Not sure whether it was due to the fact that this bowl of ramen was prepared based on my preference, the first bite of the noodles and sip of the soup hit the right spot instantaneously! Pork based broth was rich in collagen, very smooth and flavourful, to the point that I drank up the entire bowl. Personally, I preferred the thinner noodles that were served here too - cooked to the right texture I wanted. Every mouthful is packed with unami and it took less than 10 minutes to gobble down this satisfying bowl of ramen. In the end, I bought a few packets of noodles at Fukuoka Airport, hoping to revive this wholesome taste back at home. To my dismay, it still doesn't taste as good as my first encounter with Ichiran Ramen.

Back at home, I find Ippudo Ramen, another famous brand which originated from Hakata, quite similar to Ichiran Ramen in terms of taste - pork based broth and thin noodles. Therefore, I patronise Ippudo occasionally when the cravings for ramen set in. Though subconsciously, I still find Ichiran Ramen better. Hope to witness the day when Ichiran Ramen comes to Singapore! 

======

Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)
〒810-0801　福岡県福岡市博多区中洲5-3-2

Opens 24 hours.
http://www.ichiran.co.jp/english/html/q_nakasu.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

Stayed 15.03.2014 - 17.03.2014 (2 days)
Booked thru' Booking.com

- There are always many accommodation options near major train stations. Hakata was the first and last stop of my 12 days trip in Kyushu. Stayed in two different hotels - Hakata Miyako Hotel and JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo, located within walking distance from East (Chikusi) and West exit of the train station. 

- Take the escalator up to second level where the hotel lobby is located. A cafe can be found on the same floor. Booked a twin room (without breakfast) at 23,408 yen (~ 293 SGD) for two nights. Was satisfied with my stay here: reasonably sized room with walking space and equipped with all basic amenities. Convenient location makes this hotel a popular choice for travellers. 

======

What's nearby?

(1) Hakata JR Station, the busiest train station and gateway to other parts of Kyushu.

(2) Fukuoka city subway: Hakata Station (K11), on Kuko line (orange line)
- 3 stops away from Tenjin Station (K08). Transfer to Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu and Yanagawa.
- 2 stops away from Fukuoka Domestic Terminal (K13).

(3) JR Hakata City, connected seamlessly to the train station.
- Houses two shopping malls: AMU Plaza and Hankyu.
- Tokyu Hands is located near West exit of train station. Visit its first floor to shop for exclusive Kyushu souvenirs and JR Kyushu merchandises.
- Many fast food outlets, cafes and restaurants to choose from. Settled our breakfast at the train station on both days.

(4) Yodobashi-Hakata, well known electronics chain store in Japan.
- Exit from East (Chikusi) exit and turn right.
- g.u. (same owner as Uniqlo) and ABC Mart are located within the same building.

======

Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

〒812－0013 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅東2-1-1（博多）

http://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/hakata/
Less than 2 mins walk from East exit (Chikusi exit).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata JR Station 博多駅, JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Kyushu & All Kyushu)

Hakata JR Station - East exit (Chikusi exit)

Hakata JR Station, the biggest (and busiest) train station in Kyushu.
Easily accessible by both subway from Fukuoka Airport and by Shinkansen from Honshu, Hakata JR Station serves as a gateway for many to other parts of Kyushu.

Main lines include:
(1) Kagoshima main line - travel northwards to Kokura, southwards to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(2) Kyushu Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(3) Sanyo Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Shin Osaka. Operated by JR West. 

(4) Kuko line of Fukuoka City Subway.

Special sightseeing & limited express trains departing from Hakata JR Station include:
(1) Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch - connects Hakata to Huis Ten Bosch, a European theme park located in Nagasaki prefecture.

(2) Ltd Express Kamome - connects Hakata to Saga and Nagasaki.

(3) Ltd Express Midori - connects Hakata to Saga and Sasebo.

(4) Ltd Express Sonic - connects Hakata to Oita and Beppu.

(5) Yufuin no mori - connects Hakata to Yufuin and Beppu.

======

What's nearby? 

Hakata JR Station - West exit

(1) Shopping malls
- JR Hakata City, the building just above the train station, comprises of both AMU Plaza and Hankyu. For Tokyu Hands fans, you will be glad to know that there is one branch conveniently located here. Do check out their ground floor which has a section dedicated to Kyushu souvenirs - a good place to source for last minute gifts/merchandises.
- Yodobashi is located adjacent to the train station.
JR Hakata City: http://www.jrhakatacity.com/english/

(2) Numerous hotels to choose from.
Stayed at two different hotels during this trip.
- Hakata Miyako Hotel, 2 mins walk from east exit (Chikusi exit) of train station.
- JR Blossom Hakata Chuo Hotel, 2 mins walk from west exit of train station.

======

JR Kyushu Rail Pass

- There are two different types of rail passes, both available in 3 and 5 days:   

(1) Northern Kyushu area, can only be used in Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki and Kumamoto 

(2) All Kyushu area

JR Kyushu: http://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/railpass.html

- Restrictions: Do note that this pass cannot be used on the Shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura, which is operated by JR West.

- Purchase: Rail pass can be purchased at main train stations in Kyushu (e.g. Kokura, Hakata, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, Oita, Saga, Kagoshima, Miyazaki, etc). In Hakata JR Station, there is a counter, served by English speaking staff, specially arranged for foreigners. After purchase of rail pass, you can proceed to make seats reservations immediately without having to queue again.  

- Be prepared! The only way to reap the most benefit/credits out from these rail passes is to do homework/research prior to purchase. Plan your itinerary and make use of Hyperdia to check the train fares between locations, then decide which pass suits you best. This pass can be used on Shinkansen, limited express and local trains operated by JR Kyushu and most importantly, no additional fees are required for seat reservations!
Hyperdia: http://www.hyperdia.com/

- One of the reasons to why train rides are so appealing in Kyushu is its seasonal sightseeing trains! Most of them operates on weekends and certain months, making only 1 - 3 trips per day, therefore it is advised to make reservations in advance to avoid disappointment.

- Was glad to know that in the second half of March, most of these sightseeing trains were also operating on weekdays due to cherry blooming season. Planned the ride of these sightseeing trains on the later half of my 12 days trip, as I would only purchase the rail pass and reserve seats on the day I arrive - thought I would stand a better chance to get my seats on these trains. Despite that effort made, some of the more popular train timings were already fully booked. Had to tweak my itinerary on the spot to fit in less popular train timings. Do have a backup plan in place, in anticipation for such last minute changes.

A good reference to find out past seasonal trains schedule: http://jprail.com/

======

My sums:

(1) Northern Kyushu area 5 Days rail pass: 9,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: Hakata > Takeo Onsen, by Ltd Exp Midori; 3,000 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 2: Takeo Onsen > Huis Ten Bosch, by Ltd Exp Huis Ten Bosch; 1,730 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 3: 
• Huis Ten Bosch > Sasebo, by local train; 270 yen
• Sasebo > Nagasaki, by Seaside Liner; 1,600 yen
• Day 4: 
• Nagasaki > Shintosu, by Ltd Exp Kamome &
• Shintosu > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,700 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 5: Kumamoto > Aso by Aso Boy; 2,180 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 16,480 yen
Savings = 7,480 yen (45% discount)


(2) All Kyushu area 5 days rail pass: 17,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: -
• Day 2: 
• Yufuin > Kurume, by Yufuin no mori &
• Kurume > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,160 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 3: 
• Kumamoto > Hitoyoshi, by SL Hitoyoshi; 2,570 yen (reserved seat)
• Hitoyoshi > Yoshimatsu, by Isaburo; 1,220 yen (reserved seat)
• Yoshimatsu > Kagoshima chuo; by Hayato no kaze; 2,430 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 4: Kagoshima chuo > Ibusuki by Ibusuki no tamatebako; 2,070 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 5: 
• Ibusuki > Kagoshima chuo, by local train; 970 yen
• Kagoshima chuo > Hakata, by Shinkansen; 10,170 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 26,590 yen

Savings = 9,590 yen (36% discount)

======

Commemorative stamp: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Arrival & Departure, Fukuoka Airport 福岡空港

Day 1: 15.03.2014

Day 13: 27.03.2014

Arrival: SIN T3 (0110 hrs) > FUK Int Terminal (0825 hrs) by SQ656

Departure: FUK Int Terminal (1000 hrs) > SIN T2 (1535 hrs) by SQ655

Currently only SQ has direct flights from Singapore Changi Airport to Fukuoka Airport in Kyushu. Others will require a connecting flight to reach Kyushu. 

Kyushu is made up of seven prefectures (Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Kagoshima and Miyazaki) and there is a airport in every prefecture. There are regular domestic flights between Haneda Airport and the airport in each prefecture, which means one do not necessarily have to depart from the same airport that you arrive in. 

Fukuoka Airport website: http://www.fuk-ab.co.jp/english/

======

Travelling between Fukuoka Airport <> main city: 

(1) Subway: 
Fukuoka domestic airport and Hakata is separated by only one subway station and the travelling time takes less than 10 minutes! For passengers shuffling between domestic and international terminals, there are free regular shuttle bus services, every 5 - 8 minutes, commuting between these terminals.  

Fukuoka City Subway website: http://subway.city.fukuoka.lg.jp/eng/index.html
Hakata (K11) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen 
Tenjin (K08) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen

(2) Bus: 
Direct buses to Hakata/Tenjin are available at both international and domestic terminals and depart every half hourly. Took the bus at bus stop #2 and alighted at Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit. 

Nishitetsu bus website: http://www.nishitetsu.jp/en/access/
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Hakata, fee = 260 yen, approx 18 mins
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Tenjin, fee = 310 yen, approx 33 mins

======

Commemorative stamp: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 1 Itinerary: Fukuoka 福岡

Day 1 - 15.03.2014

SIN T3 (0110 hrs) > FUK (0825 hrs) by SQ 656

Fukuoka Airport > Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit
by Nishitetsu Bus (for Hakata & Tenjin). Fee = 250 yen.

Check in: Hakata Miyako Hotel

Bought JR Kyushu Rail Passes and made seats reservation at Hakata JR Station.
- 5 days JR Kyushu Pass for northern area only (17.03.2014 - 21.03.2014): 9,000 yen
- 5 days JR Kyushu Pass (22.03.2014 - 26.03.2014): 17,000 yen

======

Bought 1 day Fukuoka City Subway Pass. Fee = 500 yen.
* 500 yen on weekends & Public Holidays, 600 yen on weekdays.
[520 yen & 620 yen from Apr 2014 onwards] 

Hakata > Nakasu Kawabata
by subway, via Kuko Line.

Lunch: Ichiran Ramen (一蘭) @ Nakasu head shop & office

Shopping @ Canal City

Nakasu Kawabata 中州川端 > Ohori Park 大濠公園
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko Line.

Visited Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園.

Ohori Park 大濠公園 > Hakata 博多
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko Line.

======

Dinner: Hakata Hanamidori 博多華味鳥, branch @ Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit.

Shopping @ AMU, Hankyu, Yodobashi

- End of Day 1 -

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Hakodate Airport 函館空港

Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/
Approx 1 hr 20 mins between Hakodate and Haneda Airport.

Other flights:
- Domestic flights from Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, Okushiri island and Misawa (in Aomori).
- International flights from Taipei and Seoul.

There are a handful of restaurants and shops housed within the airport. Had our dinner in Restaurant Pollux, located on third floor of the airport, before boarding our flight back to Haneda Airport.

======

How to get there?
(1) Bus to Hakodate Airport (bus stop 11), bus stop located in front of Hakodate JR Station. 
- Bus schedule (between Hakodate JR Station and Hakodate Airport): http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/time_schedule/bus/en.shtml
- Bus schedule (in Japanese): http://www.hakonavi.ne.jp/howto/time.html
Approx 20 mins; fee = 410 yen

======

Commemorative stamps: