Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Chusonji 中尊寺, Konjikido 金色堂

Visited 13.05.2016 (Fri)

Konjikido

Background. After Motsuji, I caught the Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run and alighted at Chusonji, which is part of UNESCO World Heritage site title conferred to Hiraizumi – Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land. Similar to Yamadera 山寺 (Risshakuji 立石寺) and Motsuji 毛越寺, Chusonji was first founded by Ennin (Jikaku daishi 慈覚大師) in 850. In 1105, the first Oshu Fujiwara clan lord, Kiyohira 清衡, started large scale construction of Chusonji on the top of Kanzan (Mt Kanzan 関山). The objective of this temple complex was to comfort the souls of those sacrificed during the Former Nine Years’ War (Zenkunen War 前九年合戦) between 1051 and 1062; and Latter Three Years’ War (Gosanen War 後三年の役) between 1083 and 1087 in the Tohoku region.

Steep slope. In comparison to the leisure stroll around Ozumi ga ike 大泉が池 in Motsuji, I felt that the walking route within the compound of Chusonji (especially at the start) was way more arduous and challenging. The gradient of Tsukimizaka 月見坂, the main path which leads to Konjikido, is steeper than I anticipated and at times, I had to use the rope handrails to pull myself up.

Hondo 本堂, the main temple building of Motsuji.

Main hall. Chusonji is actually a collective name for all the temples (one main temple and 17 other sub-temples) situated on this mountain. While walking along the path through a Japanese cedar forest, temples dedicated to Buddhist pantheon emerged on both sides. Rebuilt in 1909, Hondo 本堂 is the principal temple hall where Shaka Nyorai (Historical Buddha) is worshiped and there are two eternal lights (placed on both sides of Shaka Nyorai) which were lit by flame brought over from Hieizan's (Hiei mountain 比叡山) Enryaku-ji 延暦寺 (located in Kyoto).

Mine Yakushido 峯薬師堂.

Hakusan Jinja 白山神社.

Dainichido 大日堂.

Tickets to view Konjikido 金色堂 (Golden Hall) are sold at the office in Sankozo 讃衡蔵. The area requiring an admission ticket is where Konjikido, Kyozo 経楼 (sutra repository) and Kyu Oido 旧覆堂 (the hall formerly used to protect Konjikido) are located. As there is stall selling light snacks near Sankozo, I took a breather and rewarded myself with a matcha soft cream before making my way to Konjikido. Within the compound of Chusonji, there are also two lookout points - the Eastern Lookout (東物見) near the start of Tsukimizaka and the Western Lookout (西物見) at the end of Tsukumizaka, where a relatively good overview of Hiraizumi-cho can be seen.

Eastern Lookout.

Western Lookout.

Magnificence. Based on historical records, there were over forty temples and pagodas and more than three hundred priests’ residences in Chusonji and out of which only Konjikido survived to convey the history to future generation. Completed in 1124, the Konjikido is currently being shielded by another external structure and photography is not allowed within the building. The name Konjikido / Golden Hall comes about because the entire hall is covered inside out with gold leaf literally. The fine level of decorative details displayed on the pillars and the altars is simply mind blowing. Mother of pearl craftsmanship, lacquer decoration sprinkled with gold powder and metal cravings/engravings decoration showcased the outstanding and sophisticated artistic techniques of Buddhist art during Heian period. This is definitely one place where no one leaves here feeling unimpressed.

Konjikido.

Kyozo 経蔵 (Sutra Repository)

Unique stairs.

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Chusonji 中尊寺
〒029-4102 岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉衣関202
Operating hours:
- 1 Mar to 3 Nov: 0830 - 1700 hrs
- 4 Nov to end Feb: 0830 - 1630 hrs
Admission fee (to Konjikido 金色堂, Kyozo 経楼 and Kyu Oido 旧覆堂) = 800 yen
https://www.chusonji.or.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
From Hiraizumi JR Station 平泉駅 bus stop, board Hiraizumi Loop Bus Run Run 平泉巡回バス 「るんるん」, a loop service operating from Hiraizumi Ekimae 平泉駅前, Motsuji 毛越寺, Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, Chusonji 中尊寺, Muryoko-in ato 無量光院跡 and eventually returning to Hiraizumi Ekimae and alight at Chusonji.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/ichinoseki_hiraizumi.html