Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Kappabuchi カッパ淵

Visited 14.05.2016 (Sat)

Fishing for Kappa using cucumber as a bait.

Believe it or not. Originated from Japanese folklore, Kappa 河童 is a water ghost/demon that lives in the waters. I have seen countless representations of Kappa in different media and it is at two extremities, either very adorable / cute looking or would send a chill down your spine. In the past, parents would mention Kappa to scare their children not to play in the waters (to avoid being pulled down by them). It was said (or rumored) that Kappa are thriving in a stream, named Kappabuchi, located in the outskirts of Tono city in Iwate Prefecture. Frankly speaking, I was dumbfounded by this saying because I have always thought that Kappa is a fictional character. However, the way Kappabuchi is being promoted here did make me have second thoughts about it; maybe there could be some truth in the story after all. Decided to make my way to Kappabuchi to see it for myself and authenticate the statement. In the end, did I have the honour to meet a Kappa in person? 

Catching Kappa. Kappabuchi is about 5 minutes walk from Densyoen 伝承園, another prominent attraction in Tono city which showcases the lifestyle of farming communities in the past. The stream runs through the compound of Jokenji 常堅寺, a temple founded in 1490 and it is said that the Kappa who saved the temple from a fire was transformed into a pair of komainu 狛犬 to safeguard the temple since then. It did get a bit daunting (was just scaring myself) as I approached my final destination; especially when I had no clue how this mysterious stream looked like in reality. To admit, I was slightly disappointed as I did not find the stream particularly magnificent or scenic - murky flowing waters with wild vegetation on its banks. One thing that puzzled me was this fishing rod with a cucumber tied to its end anchored on the bank; apparently used as a bait to catch something from Kappabuchi. Found out later that there is an activity which visitors can engage in at Kappabuchi and that is to "fish" for Kappa "thriving" in the stream. Cucumber was used as the bait because it is said that this was Kappa's favourite food (and that was how the name of cucumber rice roll, Kappa maki, came about as well). Though it sounded absurd to me, curiosity got the better of me as I kept my eyes glued on the cucumber for quite some time, thinking that a Kappa might get caught eventually. Of course, my wish was not fulfilled in the end... 

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Kappabuchi カッパ淵
https://tonojikan.jp/kanko/kappabuchi.php

How to get there?

(1) By bus and walk.

- Board Iwate Ken Kotsu Bus Tsuchibuchi line 岩手県交通 土淵線 heading for Densyoen 伝承園/ Nishiuchi 西 / Ontoku 恩徳, alight at Densyoen-mae 伝承園前. Approx 5 minutes walk from here.

- Or board Iwate Ken Kotsu Bus Tsukimoushi line 岩手県交通 附馬牛線, heading for Saka no shita 坂の下, alight at Ashiaraigawa 足洗川. Approx 5 minutes walk from here.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/pdf/timetable/21_hanamaki/21250_toono-jikoku.pdf