Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Owani Onsenkyo Kai Tsugaru 大鰐温泉郷 界 津軽

Stayed 16.05.2016 (Mon)
Reserved thru' hotel website.
Single plan with half board = 29,000 yen



Owani Onsenkyo 大鰐温泉郷 is a hot spring town located in Owani machi 大鰐町 of Aomori Prefecture. The town is accessible by both trains and buses. From Aomori Station 青森駅, it takes about 1 hour to reach Owani Onsen Station 大鰐温泉駅 by Limited Express Tsugaru つがる. From Hirosaki Station 弘前駅, it takes about 10 mins to reach the same train station by the same limited express train or 30 mins by Konan Bus 弘南バス (Hirosaki ~ Owani / Ikarigaseki line 弘前～大鰐・碇ヶ関線). After a memorable stay in Tamatsukuri Onsen's Kai Izumo 界 出雲 in Shimane Prefecture (visited in Apr 2015), I have been on the lookout for Kai establishment whenever I am planning on a trip to Japan. Usually, I will first decide on the places to visit before selecting the accommodation. However, it was the opposite approach taken on this occasion - Owani Onsen was put into my itinerary because I wanted to stay in Kai Tsugaru 界 津軽! 

Apple flowers. Waited for the hotel staff to pick me and other guests up from Owani Onsen Station 大鰐温泉駅. Left the train station on a mini van, we crossed Hirakawa 平川, the river which meanders through the main hot spring town, and the number of buildings and houses gradually decreases from sight along the way. Kai Tsugaru is situated in a rather remote part of Owani machi, where its surrounding area are dedicated to apple farming. Spent a short while to explore outside after checking in and spotting some blooming flowers on these trees (my first encounter with apple flowers as well). Can imagine how beautiful the nearby farms will look like during the regular harvesting season in autumn!

Facilities. We were warmly welcomed by the staff upon reaching the hotel. Followed the staff, walking through a glass corridor and unveiling the main lobby of the hotel. Shortly after we took our seats in the spacious lobby, the staff served us hot towel and apple juice. The staff went through the check-in procedure with me - introducing the facilities, confirming timing for both meals (dinner and breakfast), checking whether do I require the shuttle bus service on the following day, etc. A beautiful landscaped lake garden can also be admired through the glass walls. In fact, the surrounding compound is designed to create the visual impression that the main building, which houses the lobby and dinning area, is floating on the water.







Culture. There is a travel library which I enjoyed hanging out in to browse through the travelogues and guide books specific to the region, over a cup of freshly ground coffee or apple tea. Every hotel under Kai brand aims to introduce Japan's regional culture to its guests. In Kai Tsugaru, Tsugaru shamisen lute performance is held every night in the lobby, right in front of this huge and magnificent wall painting titled "Waves of Spring and Autumn 春秋波濤" by the late Matazo Kayama (1927 - 2004), a famous Nihonga painter. Shamisen is a Japanese stringed instrument, made up of three strings stretched over a square box. It is said that Tsugaru style of shamisen was developed by blind monks who earned food and money through playing of this musical instrument. The 30 minutes performance is led by Kohei Shibuya, a national champion, accompanied by other musicians (who are also hotel staff) who have trained under him. Despite not being able to comprehend the introduction that the performer gave before playing every piece of music, I was carried away by the powerful sounds and engaging rhythm throughout the live performance.





Rooms. The guestrooms underwent renewal works and were reopened in Apr 2019. Currently, there are a total of 41 guest rooms with five different room types to choose from. Inline with its aim to promote regional culture, elements of regional craft cultures are incorporated in its design. Tsugaru kogin sashi 津軽こぎん刺し, a traditional craft of Aomori, is featured here in Kai Tsugaru. During Edo period, farmers wore clothing made of hemp. Tsugaru kogin sashi is the technique of stitching cotton threads onto the clothes for reinforcement and warm keeping when the farmers worn them during cold harsh winters. The stitches which usually took the form of geometrical patterns, added decorative touches to the clothes. Overtime, this technique was employed by local people of Mutsu Province on traditional dresses to increase its aesthetic value. To promote this regional craft, Kai Tsugaru collaborates with local Kogin designer to create contemporary style kogin sashi patterns to decorate its guestrooms. Spot these beautiful, symmetrical patterns on the doors, walls, furniture and even the accessories found in the room.



Hot spring. There are two communal bathhouses separated by gender. Named hinoki no yu 檜の湯,  the indoor pools in the bathhouses were actually constructed from a 2,000 year old Japanese cypress tree (hinoki). Just by touching the texture of the distinctive wood grains on the circumference of the pool, one can tell how antique the wood is. Another feature that fascinates me is that I got to soak in hot spring pool with apples floating in it! Yet another pride of Aomori Prefecture, these apples diffused a natural, refreshing scent into the enclosure - a treat of aromatherapy while warming up my body in the hot spring pool at the same time. The colourless hot spring waters is retrieved from Yachigashira Onsen 萢頭温泉 and it contains sodium, chloride and sulphate. It is said that this hot spring waters has therapeutic effects on people suffering from ailments such as neuralgia, arthritis, myalgia, stiff shoulders, skin problems, etc. After rejuvenating myself from the hot spring soak, I took a short break in the resting area and helped myself to the sweet treats kept in the freezer. There was a variety of ice pops available; made from fruits, such as apples, pineapples, grapes and strawberry; azuki bean and green tea. Drinks selection wise, there were tea, snow carrot juice, apple vinegar drink and even Asahi beer, to choose from!

Top right: Sashimi platter; Bottom right: Hassun

Meals. For dinner, I was treated to a luscious and extravagant kaiseki course that wowed my taste buds. Both seasonal and local ingredients are prepared by both traditional and innovative cooking methods to create a menu that will sure to gratify one's palate. Like how the sashimi platter, comprised of hairy crab, squid, scallop, red sea bream and greater amberjack, was put together. Each of the seafood/fish has its own condiment to be eaten with in order to enhance its flavour. For example, the squid (ika) is accompanied by a rich uni sauce, while the scallop (hotate) is savoured together with nebuta tsuke, a pickle comprised of herring roe, cuttlefish, cucumber, radish and kombum, which also a signature of Aomori Prefecture.

Abalone! As it was late spring when I visited Tohoku region, it was apt to find cherry blossom being incorporated into some of its dishes. Was given the choice of either abalone or grilled beef as the main dish for my dinner course and I chose the former without much hesitation. A whole, fresh abalone was wrapped in seaweed and baked, and served with an abalone liver sauce. Love how tender the abalone meat was and the liver sauce added depth to its taste. My taste buds went on a gastronomy journey in Kai Tsugaru, yet again!

Dinner menu:

Hassun 八寸:  

- Sakura shrimp in matsukaze terrine 海老の松風
- Soramame beans pudding with junsai plant そら豆玉寄せ じゅんさい
- Akagai clams and scallions in vinegared miso 赤貝とわけぎのぬた　
- Trout sushi topped with japanese pepper 鱒の木の芽寿司　
- Nanohana flowers seasoned with sesame 菜の花利休和え　
- Mashed potato covered with colourful rice crackers 五色饅頭
- Aigamo duck tenderloin 合鴨ロース
Soup お椀: Sakura mochi rice cake flavoured with cherry blossom stuffed with shrimp dumpling 桜餅の海老射込み
Sashimi お造り: Hair crab 毛蟹, squid 烏賊, scallop 帆立, red sea bream 真鯛 and greater amberjack 勘八
Fried dish 揚げ物 - Minced shrimp covered with shinbiki rice flour たたき海老新挽揚げ, accompanied with other vegetable tempura
Steamed dish 蓋物 - Steamed crab in taro covered with mitsuba japanese parsley sauce, sprinkled with crispy puffed rice and topped with wasabi 蟹の養老蒸し 三つ葉餡
Main dish 台の物 - Abalone wrapped in seaweed served with abalone liver sauce 鮑の若布包み焼き
Meal 食事: Rice, miso soup and tsukemono (pickled vegetables)
Dessert 甘味: Sakura flavoured mousse with ice cream 桜のデザート





Breakfast spread was also pretty impressive as well - chicken and tofu meatballs, bracken rolls (わらび), boiled tofu in a chrysanthemum dashi, grilled saikyo miso marinated cod fish, onsen tamago, rice accompanied with tsukemono and funori (a type of seaweed) miso soup and lastly slices of apples, to cleanse the palate.



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Owani Onsen Kai Tsugaru 大鰐温泉 界 津軽
〒038-0211 青森県南津軽郡大鰐町大鰐字上牡丹森36-1
https://kai-ryokan.jp/tsugaru/
https://kai-ryokan.jp/en/tsugaru/

How to get there?

(1) Complimentary shuttle service from Owani Onsen JR Station 大鰐温泉駅.
No prior reservation is required to utilise bus service.
Bus schedule: https://kai-ryokan.jp/tsugaru/directions/#transportation-bus

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Video:

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Owani Onsen JR Station 大鰐温泉駅

Owani Onsen JR Station 大鰐温泉駅, is a train station located on the Ou main line 奥羽本線. "Owani” literally means big crocodile. Therefore, upon knowing its name, it reminded me of Oniyama Jigoku 鬼山地獄 (in Beppu) where a bask of crocodiles can be seen soaking in the warm waters. Fortunately, I did not encounter such sight in this hot spring town. Owani Onsen is located in Owani machi 大鰐町 of Aomori Prefecture and was founded 800 years ago. This place was once used as a hot spring healing place by the Tsugaru clan during the Edo period. When the Ou main line was commissioned in 1895, it brought along an influx of visitors to Owani Onsen and fueled entertainment businesses in the town. Though the bustling street where Tsugaru Geisha could be sighted, was a scene of the past, the town is still frequent by locals for its therapeutic hot spring waters and tranquil pace of lifestyle. Now, the townscape is made up of a mixture of old and new establishments - traditional public bathhouses, humble inns and modern ryokan. Do take note the main hot spring town is located closer to Hirakawa river, which is about 15 minutes walk away from the train station.







Adjacent to Owani Onsen JR Station is Owani Station 大鰐駅, the terminus station on Konan Tetsudo Owani line 弘南鉄道大鰐線. Passengers can hop onto a train here and alight at Hirosaki Chuo Station 弘前中央駅, the last station on the other end of Owani line. Compared to Hirosaki JR Station, Hirosaki Chuo Station is actually closer to attractions such as Hirosaki Castle and Former Hirosaki City Library.

Limited express trains serving this train station include:

(1) Limited Express Tsugaru つがる, commutes between Aomori and Akita via Ou main line 奥羽本線, stopping by Shin Aomori 新青森駅, Hirosaki 弘前駅, Owani Onsen 大鰐温泉駅, Odate 大舘駅and Higashi-Noshiro 東能代駅.



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What’s nearby?

(1) Footbath, located just outside the train station.
One of the perks I always look forward to when visiting a hot spring town is its complimentary footbath pool, sometimes located just beside the train station. A great place to enjoy a relaxing foot soak to wear off the ache (accumulated from walking) while waiting for the train to arrive.
Operating hours: 0600 - 1900 hrs (May - Aug); 0700 - 1800 hrs (Sep - Apr)

(2) Wanicome 鰐come (ワニカム), a minute walk from the train station.
Operating hours: 0900 - 2200 hrs, closed on the 3rd Thu of every month.
Wanicome is a multipurpose building which houses souvenir shops, farmers' market, eateries as well as a communal bathhouse with both indoor and outdoor pools.
http://www.wanicome.com/

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Amachan House アマちゃんハウス

Visited 16.05.2016 (Mon)



In search of Amachan. Being an avid supporter of Amachan, being able to make my way to Kuji city, one of the main filming location for the drama, was a dream come true for me! Apart for Kosode Ama Center 小袖海女センター and Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅, there is one other place that fans will not want to miss when visiting this coastal town. Located just a stone throw away from the train station, Amachan House アマちゃんハウス was specially created after the broadcast of the drama serial to showcase items associated to Amachan. Fans will be able to relate to almost everything that are put on display here; seeing some of these familiar props which have been featured or appeared in the drama serial again is sure to trigger wonderful memories that all of us have for Amachan.

Figures. At the entrance of Amachan House, I was greeted by two adorable cartoon representation of Aki and Yui, featured on both sides of the entrance's glass walls. Upon entering the house, I was welcomed by two large figures of Aki (dressed in ama costume) and Yui (dressed as the publicity figure of Kitasanriku Tetsudo) standing at two corners of the room. 

 






Diorama. A diorama of Kitasanriku city, which sets the scene for the first part of the drama, took the center stage of the exhibition space. This exact same model appeared in the scenes which featured Kitasanriku Tourism Association Office; was elated to able to see the details of the diorama so up close for the very first time.





Head mark. Spotted the iconic circular name plate depicting Aki and Yui that was placed on the front of Kitasanriku Tetsudo's special kotatsu train in the drama, and the name plates commemorating the reopening of Kitasanriku Tetsudo Rias line 北三陸鉄道リアス線 after Tohoku earthquake and tsunami.





Costumes that appeared in the drama were also put on display here, such as the one wore by ama (female divers) and the uniform of Kitasanriku High School 北三陸高校 (the school which Aki and her friends attended). There is also a mini gallery of photos featuring the main cast of the drama and also a wallpaper of the symbolic white coloured lighthouse 白灯台 situated at Sodegahama 袖ヶ浜 (this lighthouse is physically located near Kosade Ama Center, along Sanriku Coast), which would pop up in the opening of every episode of the drama. This is certainly a place that will make any fan of Amachan exclaim "Je Je Je" repeatedly!

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Amachan House アマちゃんハウス

久慈市中央３－２８

Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs; closed on Wednesdays

Free admission

http://kuji-tourism.jp/see/?p=486

How to get there?

(1) 1 minute walk from Kuji JR Station 久慈駅 / Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅, Sanriku Riasu-tei 三陸リアス亭, Uni Bento うに弁当

Visited 16.05.2016 (Mon)



Je je je! Woke up extremely early on Day 5 and skipped the complimentary breakfast offered by Comfort Hotel in order to catch the first train that departs from Hachinohe for Kuji (0535 hrs). The interval between trains commuting along Hachinohe line is long (every 2 hours on average) and the train takes approximately 2.5 hours to commute from Hachinohe to Kuji. Despite these transportation constraints, I was determined to visit Kuji city, as it was one of the filming location for Amachan アマちゃん, a 15 minutes morning drama produced by NHK which made its debut broadcast in Japan in Apr 2013. The story began with Aki, a high school girl from Tokyo, visiting her grandmother who worked as an ama 海女 (a woman who dive for sea urchins and shellfishes) in Sodegahama 袖ヶ浜 (a fictitious place along Sanriku Coast) and sold uni bento for a living. Being inspired the local ama community, Aki decided to take up the job and underwent arduous training to become an ama. The first half of the story focused on Aki's life at Kitasanriku city 北三陸市 (which is Kuji city 久慈市 in reality), the uphill task to become an ama and her new forged friendship with the locals at this coastal town. Sodegahama is actually Kosade Kaigan 小袖海岸, part of Kuji city, and indeed, many local women here once worked as ama to earn additional income while their husband, typically fishermen, are out in the sea with their boats. Being a follower of this drama serial, I wanted very much to see the filming location of Amachan. In addition to that, the drama serial also highlighted the beautiful natural scenery along Sanriku Coast overlooking Pacific Ocean.

Kitasanriku Station. Apart from providing insight to the lives of ama, the story line also revolves around how Kitasanriku Tetsudo 北三陸鉄道, the fictitious company that operates Rias line, tried to increase ridership and promote tourism to the declining town. Yui, who won the publicity contest organised by Kitasanriku Tetsudo, was arranged to perform Shiosai no memory 潮騒のメモリー together with Aki (who also gained popularity after videos portraying her training to become an ama were uploaded online) on board special kotatsu trains operated along Rias line and the event attracted a crowd of people flocking to Kitasanriku city. In the drama serial, Kitasanriku Station 北三陸駅 was the terminus station of Rias line. In reality, there is no such station with this name and the building featured as Kitasanriku Station is actually Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅, located just adjacent to Kuji JR Station 久慈駅.







Shiosai no memory. Stood outside Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station and could fully relate its the external appearance to many scenes featured in the drama (such as the scene in which train fans surged out from the train station, all heading to see Aki and Yui). However, after stepping into the main building, I realised its layout (the stationmaster office and cafe) is completely different from how Kitasanriku Station was portrayed in the drama serial. Found out that the scenes inside the train station were actually filmed in the studio. The unprecedented popularity of Amachan has helped to boost tourism in Kuji city tremendously, right when town was in dire need to do so after the Great Tohoku Earthquake. A surprise awaits for fans in the passengers' waiting area of the train station. Was excited to see the costumes wore by Aki and Yui and the props used by them when they performed Shiosai no memory, were available for try on here. The humorous scenes of them performing the song on board the kotatsu train surfaced into my mind instantaneously. Beside the train ticket counter, there was a small stall set up where merchandise related to Sanriku Tetsudo and Kuji city are available for sale. Bought a beautiful handmade magnet depicting ama as a souvenir to bring back home.







Uni bento. There were also two food that became famous after the drama was aired on national television. First was an existing specialty originated from Kuji city called Mamebu soup まめぶ汁, which is a broth created with kombu and niboshi, and filled with dumplings made from walnut and brown sugar. The other one was uni bento ウニ弁当 (sea urchin rice box) which the ama prepared using their sea urchin catch everyday. Did not get to try Mamebu soup (which is available at Michi no eki Kuji 道の駅久慈) but managed to grab one uni bento from Sanriku Riasu-tei 三陸リアス亭, a food stall which sells soba and udon in the train station. What makes this bento so exclusive is that there are only 20 available for sale everyday. Was worried initially that I could not get hold of one as it was been a regular hot selling food item of the stall and is said to be sold out before lunch. Removed the packaging and I was elated to see an overwhelming amount of uni nicely spread on top of the rice. Though I am a fan of uni, I have never eaten such a large serving before. The uni was creamy and sweet with subtle briny ocean taste, but sadly not the best I have tasted. Normal rice was used but I would have prefer seasoned rice to go with uni. Found out later the best time to taste uni is actually during the harvesting season in summer (Jul to Sep). Despite the miss, I felt happy to be able to come up close to the filming location of Amachan; fulfilled my wish as a fan.





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Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅
Adjacent to Kuji JR Station 久慈駅.

Sanriku Riasu-tei 三陸リアス亭
Operating hours: 0700 - 1630 hrs
Uni bento ウニ弁当 = 1,470 yen
https://sanriku-travel.jp/fun/gourmet_spot/p397/

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Commemorative stamps: