Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Owani Onsenkyo Kai Tsugaru 大鰐温泉郷 界 津軽

Stayed 16.05.2016 (Mon)
Reserved thru' hotel website.
Single plan with half board = 29,000 yen



Owani Onsenkyo 大鰐温泉郷 is a hot spring town located in Owani machi 大鰐町 of Aomori Prefecture. The town is accessible by both trains and buses. From Aomori Station 青森駅, it takes about 1 hour to reach Owani Onsen Station 大鰐温泉駅 by Limited Express Tsugaru つがる. From Hirosaki Station 弘前駅, it takes about 10 mins to reach the same train station by the same limited express train or 30 mins by Konan Bus 弘南バス (Hirosaki ~ Owani / Ikarigaseki line 弘前～大鰐・碇ヶ関線). After a memorable stay in Tamatsukuri Onsen's Kai Izumo 界 出雲 in Shimane Prefecture (visited in Apr 2015), I have been on the lookout for Kai establishment whenever I am planning on a trip to Japan. Usually, I will first decide on the places to visit before selecting the accommodation. However, it was the opposite approach taken on this occasion - Owani Onsen was put into my itinerary because I wanted to stay in Kai Tsugaru 界 津軽! 

Apple flowers. Waited for the hotel staff to pick me and other guests up from Owani Onsen Station 大鰐温泉駅. Left the train station on a mini van, we crossed Hirakawa 平川, the river which meanders through the main hot spring town, and the number of buildings and houses gradually decreases from sight along the way. Kai Tsugaru is situated in a rather remote part of Owani machi, where its surrounding area are dedicated to apple farming. Spent a short while to explore outside after checking in and spotting some blooming flowers on these trees (my first encounter with apple flowers as well). Can imagine how beautiful the nearby farms will look like during the regular harvesting season in autumn!

Facilities. We were warmly welcomed by the staff upon reaching the hotel. Followed the staff, walking through a glass corridor and unveiling the main lobby of the hotel. Shortly after we took our seats in the spacious lobby, the staff served us hot towel and apple juice. The staff went through the check-in procedure with me - introducing the facilities, confirming timing for both meals (dinner and breakfast), checking whether do I require the shuttle bus service on the following day, etc. A beautiful landscaped lake garden can also be admired through the glass walls. In fact, the surrounding compound is designed to create the visual impression that the main building, which houses the lobby and dinning area, is floating on the water.







Culture. There is a travel library which I enjoyed hanging out in to browse through the travelogues and guide books specific to the region, over a cup of freshly ground coffee or apple tea. Every hotel under Kai brand aims to introduce Japan's regional culture to its guests. In Kai Tsugaru, Tsugaru shamisen lute performance is held every night in the lobby, right in front of this huge and magnificent wall painting titled "Waves of Spring and Autumn 春秋波濤" by the late Matazo Kayama (1927 - 2004), a famous Nihonga painter. Shamisen is a Japanese stringed instrument, made up of three strings stretched over a square box. It is said that Tsugaru style of shamisen was developed by blind monks who earned food and money through playing of this musical instrument. The 30 minutes performance is led by Kohei Shibuya, a national champion, accompanied by other musicians (who are also hotel staff) who have trained under him. Despite not being able to comprehend the introduction that the performer gave before playing every piece of music, I was carried away by the powerful sounds and engaging rhythm throughout the live performance.





Rooms. The guestrooms underwent renewal works and were reopened in Apr 2019. Currently, there are a total of 41 guest rooms with five different room types to choose from. Inline with its aim to promote regional culture, elements of regional craft cultures are incorporated in its design. Tsugaru kogin sashi 津軽こぎん刺し, a traditional craft of Aomori, is featured here in Kai Tsugaru. During Edo period, farmers wore clothing made of hemp. Tsugaru kogin sashi is the technique of stitching cotton threads onto the clothes for reinforcement and warm keeping when the farmers worn them during cold harsh winters. The stitches which usually took the form of geometrical patterns, added decorative touches to the clothes. Overtime, this technique was employed by local people of Mutsu Province on traditional dresses to increase its aesthetic value. To promote this regional craft, Kai Tsugaru collaborates with local Kogin designer to create contemporary style kogin sashi patterns to decorate its guestrooms. Spot these beautiful, symmetrical patterns on the doors, walls, furniture and even the accessories found in the room.



Hot spring. There are two communal bathhouses separated by gender. Named hinoki no yu 檜の湯,  the indoor pools in the bathhouses were actually constructed from a 2,000 year old Japanese cypress tree (hinoki). Just by touching the texture of the distinctive wood grains on the circumference of the pool, one can tell how antique the wood is. Another feature that fascinates me is that I got to soak in hot spring pool with apples floating in it! Yet another pride of Aomori Prefecture, these apples diffused a natural, refreshing scent into the enclosure - a treat of aromatherapy while warming up my body in the hot spring pool at the same time. The colourless hot spring waters is retrieved from Yachigashira Onsen 萢頭温泉 and it contains sodium, chloride and sulphate. It is said that this hot spring waters has therapeutic effects on people suffering from ailments such as neuralgia, arthritis, myalgia, stiff shoulders, skin problems, etc. After rejuvenating myself from the hot spring soak, I took a short break in the resting area and helped myself to the sweet treats kept in the freezer. There was a variety of ice pops available; made from fruits, such as apples, pineapples, grapes and strawberry; azuki bean and green tea. Drinks selection wise, there were tea, snow carrot juice, apple vinegar drink and even Asahi beer, to choose from!

Top right: Sashimi platter; Bottom right: Hassun

Meals. For dinner, I was treated to a luscious and extravagant kaiseki course that wowed my taste buds. Both seasonal and local ingredients are prepared by both traditional and innovative cooking methods to create a menu that will sure to gratify one's palate. Like how the sashimi platter, comprised of hairy crab, squid, scallop, red sea bream and greater amberjack, was put together. Each of the seafood/fish has its own condiment to be eaten with in order to enhance its flavour. For example, the squid (ika) is accompanied by a rich uni sauce, while the scallop (hotate) is savoured together with nebuta tsuke, a pickle comprised of herring roe, cuttlefish, cucumber, radish and kombum, which also a signature of Aomori Prefecture.

Abalone! As it was late spring when I visited Tohoku region, it was apt to find cherry blossom being incorporated into some of its dishes. Was given the choice of either abalone or grilled beef as the main dish for my dinner course and I chose the former without much hesitation. A whole, fresh abalone was wrapped in seaweed and baked, and served with an abalone liver sauce. Love how tender the abalone meat was and the liver sauce added depth to its taste. My taste buds went on a gastronomy journey in Kai Tsugaru, yet again!

Dinner menu:

Hassun 八寸:  

- Sakura shrimp in matsukaze terrine 海老の松風
- Soramame beans pudding with junsai plant そら豆玉寄せ じゅんさい
- Akagai clams and scallions in vinegared miso 赤貝とわけぎのぬた　
- Trout sushi topped with japanese pepper 鱒の木の芽寿司　
- Nanohana flowers seasoned with sesame 菜の花利休和え　
- Mashed potato covered with colourful rice crackers 五色饅頭
- Aigamo duck tenderloin 合鴨ロース
Soup お椀: Sakura mochi rice cake flavoured with cherry blossom stuffed with shrimp dumpling 桜餅の海老射込み
Sashimi お造り: Hair crab 毛蟹, squid 烏賊, scallop 帆立, red sea bream 真鯛 and greater amberjack 勘八
Fried dish 揚げ物 - Minced shrimp covered with shinbiki rice flour たたき海老新挽揚げ, accompanied with other vegetable tempura
Steamed dish 蓋物 - Steamed crab in taro covered with mitsuba japanese parsley sauce, sprinkled with crispy puffed rice and topped with wasabi 蟹の養老蒸し 三つ葉餡
Main dish 台の物 - Abalone wrapped in seaweed served with abalone liver sauce 鮑の若布包み焼き
Meal 食事: Rice, miso soup and tsukemono (pickled vegetables)
Dessert 甘味: Sakura flavoured mousse with ice cream 桜のデザート





Breakfast spread was also pretty impressive as well - chicken and tofu meatballs, bracken rolls (わらび), boiled tofu in a chrysanthemum dashi, grilled saikyo miso marinated cod fish, onsen tamago, rice accompanied with tsukemono and funori (a type of seaweed) miso soup and lastly slices of apples, to cleanse the palate.



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Owani Onsen Kai Tsugaru 大鰐温泉 界 津軽
〒038-0211 青森県南津軽郡大鰐町大鰐字上牡丹森36-1
https://kai-ryokan.jp/tsugaru/
https://kai-ryokan.jp/en/tsugaru/

How to get there?

(1) Complimentary shuttle service from Owani Onsen JR Station 大鰐温泉駅.
No prior reservation is required to utilise bus service.
Bus schedule: https://kai-ryokan.jp/tsugaru/directions/#transportation-bus

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