Visited 16.05.2016 (Mon)
Je je je! Woke up extremely early on Day 5 and skipped the complimentary breakfast offered by Comfort Hotel in order to catch the first train that departs from Hachinohe for Kuji (0535 hrs). The interval between trains commuting along Hachinohe line is long (every 2 hours on average) and the train takes approximately 2.5 hours to commute from Hachinohe to Kuji. Despite these transportation constraints, I was determined to visit Kuji city, as it was one of the filming location for Amachan アマちゃん, a 15 minutes morning drama produced by NHK which made its debut broadcast in Japan in Apr 2013. The story began with Aki, a high school girl from Tokyo, visiting her grandmother who worked as an ama 海女 (a woman who dive for sea urchins and shellfishes) in Sodegahama 袖ヶ浜 (a fictitious place along Sanriku Coast) and sold uni bento for a living. Being inspired the local ama community, Aki decided to take up the job and underwent arduous training to become an ama. The first half of the story focused on Aki's life at Kitasanriku city 北三陸市 (which is Kuji city 久慈市 in reality), the uphill task to become an ama and her new forged friendship with the locals at this coastal town. Sodegahama is actually Kosade Kaigan 小袖海岸, part of Kuji city, and indeed, many local women here once worked as ama to earn additional income while their husband, typically fishermen, are out in the sea with their boats. Being a follower of this drama serial, I wanted very much to see the filming location of Amachan. In addition to that, the drama serial also highlighted the beautiful natural scenery along Sanriku Coast overlooking Pacific Ocean.
Je je je! Woke up extremely early on Day 5 and skipped the complimentary breakfast offered by Comfort Hotel in order to catch the first train that departs from Hachinohe for Kuji (0535 hrs). The interval between trains commuting along Hachinohe line is long (every 2 hours on average) and the train takes approximately 2.5 hours to commute from Hachinohe to Kuji. Despite these transportation constraints, I was determined to visit Kuji city, as it was one of the filming location for Amachan アマちゃん, a 15 minutes morning drama produced by NHK which made its debut broadcast in Japan in Apr 2013. The story began with Aki, a high school girl from Tokyo, visiting her grandmother who worked as an ama 海女 (a woman who dive for sea urchins and shellfishes) in Sodegahama 袖ヶ浜 (a fictitious place along Sanriku Coast) and sold uni bento for a living. Being inspired the local ama community, Aki decided to take up the job and underwent arduous training to become an ama. The first half of the story focused on Aki's life at Kitasanriku city 北三陸市 (which is Kuji city 久慈市 in reality), the uphill task to become an ama and her new forged friendship with the locals at this coastal town. Sodegahama is actually Kosade Kaigan 小袖海岸, part of Kuji city, and indeed, many local women here once worked as ama to earn additional income while their husband, typically fishermen, are out in the sea with their boats. Being a follower of this drama serial, I wanted very much to see the filming location of Amachan. In addition to that, the drama serial also highlighted the beautiful natural scenery along Sanriku Coast overlooking Pacific Ocean.
Kitasanriku Station. Apart from providing insight to the lives of ama, the story line also revolves around how Kitasanriku Tetsudo 北三陸鉄道, the fictitious company that operates Rias line, tried to increase ridership and promote tourism to the declining town. Yui, who won the publicity contest organised by Kitasanriku Tetsudo, was arranged to perform Shiosai no memory 潮騒のメモリー together with Aki (who also gained popularity after videos portraying her training to become an ama were uploaded online) on board special kotatsu trains operated along Rias line and the event attracted a crowd of people flocking to Kitasanriku city. In the drama serial, Kitasanriku Station 北三陸駅 was the terminus station of Rias line. In reality, there is no such station with this name and the building featured as Kitasanriku Station is actually Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅, located just adjacent to Kuji JR Station 久慈駅.
Shiosai no memory. Stood outside Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station and could fully relate its the external appearance to many scenes featured in the drama (such as the scene in which train fans surged out from the train station, all heading to see Aki and Yui). However, after stepping into the main building, I realised its layout (the stationmaster office and cafe) is completely different from how Kitasanriku Station was portrayed in the drama serial. Found out that the scenes inside the train station were actually filmed in the studio. The unprecedented popularity of Amachan has helped to boost tourism in Kuji city tremendously, right when town was in dire need to do so after the Great Tohoku Earthquake. A surprise awaits for fans in the passengers' waiting area of the train station. Was excited to see the costumes wore by Aki and Yui and the props used by them when they performed Shiosai no memory, were available for try on here. The humorous scenes of them performing the song on board the kotatsu train surfaced into my mind instantaneously. Beside the train ticket counter, there was a small stall set up where merchandise related to Sanriku Tetsudo and Kuji city are available for sale. Bought a beautiful handmade magnet depicting ama as a souvenir to bring back home.
Uni bento. There were also two food that became famous after the drama was aired on national television. First was an existing specialty originated from Kuji city called Mamebu soup まめぶ汁, which is a broth created with kombu and niboshi, and filled with dumplings made from walnut and brown sugar. The other one was uni bento ウニ弁当 (sea urchin rice box) which the ama prepared using their sea urchin catch everyday. Did not get to try Mamebu soup (which is available at Michi no eki Kuji 道の駅久慈) but managed to grab one uni bento from Sanriku Riasu-tei 三陸リアス亭, a food stall which sells soba and udon in the train station. What makes this bento so exclusive is that there are only 20 available for sale everyday. Was worried initially that I could not get hold of one as it was been a regular hot selling food item of the stall and is said to be sold out before lunch. Removed the packaging and I was elated to see an overwhelming amount of uni nicely spread on top of the rice. Though I am a fan of uni, I have never eaten such a large serving before. The uni was creamy and sweet with subtle briny ocean taste, but sadly not the best I have tasted. Normal rice was used but I would have prefer seasoned rice to go with uni. Found out later the best time to taste uni is actually during the harvesting season in summer (Jul to Sep). Despite the miss, I felt happy to be able to come up close to the filming location of Amachan; fulfilled my wish as a fan.
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Sanriku Tetsudo Kuji Station 三陸鉄道久慈駅
Adjacent to Kuji JR Station 久慈駅.
Sanriku Riasu-tei 三陸リアス亭
Operating hours: 0700 - 1630 hrs
Uni bento ウニ弁当 = 1,470 yen
https://sanriku-travel.jp/fun/gourmet_spot/p397/
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Commemorative stamps:
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