Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Attic アティック, Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－

Visited 20.03.2014

Left: Turkish rice

Turkish rice? As much as possible I will search for unique and famous gourmet originated from that particular area I am visiting. In Nagasaki Precfecture, the top three food on my list were Sasebo's burger, Champon noodles (or Chinese cuisine) and Castella cake. There is one more food which has an intriguing name, called Turkish rice. This dish totally aroused my curiosity because I could not relate Turkey to Nagasaki at all. 

Fusion yet separate entities. Made up of three components: fired pork cutlet (and fried ebi sometimes), Neapolitan spaghetti and saffron rice topped with curry. Despite the name, this dish did not originate from Turkey. I have read various stories explaining the origin of this name. When this dish was first introduced, it only has saffron rice, which is a Turish style of cooking. The side dishes (pork cutlet and spaghetti) were included on one fine day after patrons demanded more variety to be added to this dish. This expanded combination was well-received by locals and later became one of Nagasaki's signature gourmet. 

Enjoy the scenic view from Dejima Wharf; Background: Mt Inasa

Dropped by Dejima Wharf, our last stop in Nagasaki. Opened in 2000, Dejima Wharf is made up of a row of two storey shop houses with about 20 restaurants and shops. So happened to spot this restaurant, Attic, which served this local specialty. Decided to give it a try since it was time for lunch too. Serving was big making it quite worth the bucks, but the taste were not very impressive. It looks like food that will appear on my buffet plate (mixture of noodles and rice). Saffron rice, Neapolitan sauce and curry sauce, all have strong flavours and did not blend well together on a single plate. Not quite sure what is the rave behind this dish but I'm pretty sure this place did not serve the best Turkish rice in Nagasaki. Can only hope to taste this dish again from a different restaurant if I ever visit this city again. 

Anyone has a better recommendation?

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Attic アティック   
長崎県長崎市出島町1-1 長崎出島ワーフ1F美術館側
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2300 hrs (Fri & Sat - open till 2330 hrs)
http://attic-coffee.com/

Dejima Wharf 出島ワーフ－
長崎市出島1-1-109
http://dejimawharf.com/

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How to get there?
(1) By Streetcar - Take line 1 and alight at Dejima. Less than 2 mins walk from streetcar stop.

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Video: Dejima Wharf and Attic were featured in 遇约九州, a Taiwan produced travel program promoting Kyushu. Scroll to 27:12 on their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Megane bashi 眼镜桥

Visited 20.03.2014

Megane bashi means "spectacle bridge" (megane = spectacles). This name was derived because when the two arches of the bridge and the reflection in the waters are seen together, it looks like a pair of spectacles. Megane bashi, which runs across Nakashima River, is the oldest stone bridge in Japan and is voted as the top three bridges in Japan, alongside Tokyo's Nihonbashi and Iwakuni's Kintaikyo. This bridge was built in 1634, and the construction was initiated by Mokusunyojo, who is second generation monk of Koufukuji Temple (興福寺). However, the original bridge was destroyed by a flood in 1982. The current standing bridge was reconstructed later on.

Heart shaped rock supposed to bless you in relationships if you can spot it!

Heart shaped stone. Pry your eyes open to search hard for this unique heart shaped stone embedded in the stone wall of the river bank. This has become a "must do" activity for visitors when they come to this attraction. Managed to spot this after some time and the location of the stone is not too far from Megane bashi. If this is not enough, there are other similar stones hidden within the footpaths in Glover Garden, another well-known attraction in Nagasaki city.

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How to get there? 
(1) By Streetcar - Take line 4 or 5 and alight at Nigiwai Bashi (賑橋) or Koukaido Mae (公会堂前). Less than 5 mins walk from either streetcar stop,

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hypocenter Park 原爆中心地公園, PeacePark 平和公園

Visited 20.03.2014

History. Nagasaki has a rich history and part of it emerged as a result of WWII. After the first atomic bomb landed in Hiroshima on 6 Aug 1945, the second atomic bomb fell in Nagasaki shortly on 9 Aug 1945. This devastating nuclear weapon inflicted catastrophic impact to Japan, a hefty and painful price to pay for the greed for power. Both Hypocenter and Peace Park are founded to remind mankind on the lessons learnt from WWII. Various memorials and signboards were put up in different corners of both parks, served as painful reminders on the cruelty of war and never to take peace for granted. Strolled the park with a heavy heart as I pictured the scenes on the day when the atomic bomb fell onto Nagasaki in the mind while reading the articles. Overall, it was an enriching history lesson to me and I will definitely recommend paying this place a visit.

Hypocenter memorial monolith

Hypocenter Park. Hypocenter is the spot where the atomic bomb fell and exploded. A memorial monolith was built on the hypocenter of the atomic bomb. A portion of the broken wall remnant of Urakami Cathedral, located about 500 m northeast of the hypocenter, stood near the monolith. There are about 500 cherry blossom trees planted in the park, therefore making this a popular spot during spring. Was fortunate enough to see some early bloomers scattered at different part of the park.

Left: Plaque reflecting the day & time when the atomic bomb exploded in Nagasaki; Right: Remnant of Urakami Cathedral

Matsuyama Bridge

Peace Park. Along the way from the Hypocenter Park to Peace Park, we crossed the Matsuyama Bridge (the former one miraculously survived the explosion despite being 120 m away from the hypocenter) and spotted several former air raid shelters. 

A peace memorial ceremony is held in front of the Peace Statue on 9 August yearly, in memory of the victims of WWII and to spread the prayer for everlasting world peace. A poem is carved into a memorial plate in front of the fountain of peace, This poem was written by a child who suffered from thirst in the immediate aftermath of the bombing. A moment of silence is naturally observed by all in front of the Peace Statue. A sculpture that symbolises peace: The elevated right hand points to the threat of nuclear weapons, while the outstretched left hand symbolises tranquility and world peace. Divine omnipotence and love are embodied in the sturdy physique and gentle countenance of the statue, and a prayer for the repose of the souls of all war victims is expressed in the closed eyes. The folded right leg symbolises quiet meditation, while the left leg is poised for action in assisting humanity.

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Other places of interest:
(1) Atomic Bomb Museum 長崎原爆資料館 
Missed out this museum this time round. This one of the long list of attractions I have yet to visit in Nagasaki city. This museum showcases the events leading to the fateful day, the destruction inflicted and the long and painful road to recovery.
Website: http://nagasakipeace.jp/index_e.html

(2) Urakami Cathedral 浦上天主堂
The construction of this church started in 1895 and took 30 years to complete. The church was not spared from the atomic bomb blast on 9 August 1945. Reconstruction of the church was completed in 1959 to its present state. Precious remains/ruins of the old church are kept as monuments on the second floor of its congregation hall.
Website: http://www1.odn.ne.jp/uracathe/

Beautiful cherry blossom flowers spotted in the park.

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How to get there?

(1) By Nagasaki City Streetcar
From Nagasaki JR Station, take line 1 or 3 heading towards Akasako (赤坂). Alight at either Hamaguchi machi (浜口町) or Matsuyama machi (松山町).
- From Hanamguchi machi, approx 5 mins walk to Hypocenter Park
- From Matsuyama machi, approx 5 mins walk to Peace Park

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Hypocenter Park 原爆中心地公園
852-8118 長崎県長崎市松山町
http://visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/548



Peace Park 平和公園
長崎県長崎市松山町　平和公園内
http://travel.at-nagasaki.jp/en/what-to-see/33/

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 6 Itinerary: Nagasaki 長崎, Kumamoto 熊本

Day 6: 20.03.2014
* Day 4 of 5 Day JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

Kumamoto Castle

Breakfast: Dormy Inn Nagasaki 出島の湯 ドーミーイン長崎

Bought 1 day Streetcar Pass from Washington Hotel Nagasaki.
Fee = 500 yen.

Tsuki machi 築町 > Nigiwai bashi 賑橋
by Nagasaki Streetcar, via line 5.

Visited Megane bashi 眼鏡橋.

Kokaidomae 公会堂前 > Hamaguchi machi 浜口町
by Nagasaki Streetcar, via line 3.

Visited
(1) Hypocenter Park 原爆中心地公園
(2) Peace Park 平和公園

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Matsuyama machi 松山町 > Dejima 出島
by Nagasaki Streetcar, via line 1.

Lunch: Delicious Restaurant Attic アティック

Dejima 出島 > Tsuki machi 築町
by Nagasaki Streetcar, via line 1.

Dormy Inn Nagasaki > Nagasaki JR Station
by taxi. Fee = ~900 yen.

Tea break: Bunmeido Castella

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Nagasaki JR Station 長崎駅 (1320 hrs) > Shintosu JR Station 新鳥栖駅 (1447 hrs)
by Kamone かもね 24

On board Tsubame: from Shintosu to Kumamoto.

Shintosu JR Station 新鳥栖駅 (1500 hrs) > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1534 hrs)
by Tsubame つばめ 329

Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前 > Karashi machi 辛島町
by Kumamoto City Tram, via line A. Fee = 150 yen.

Check in: Mitsui Garden Hotel Kumamoto 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Visited Kumamoto Castle 熊本城. Fee = 500 yen.

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Dinner: Keika Ramen 桂花ラーメン, main branch @ Hanabatacho.

Shopping @ Parco

Desserts: Okada Coffee 岡田珈琲, main branch @ Kami Tori.

- End of Day 6 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Inasayama Observatory 稲佐山山頂展望台

Visited 19.03.2014

How the night scenery should look like on a clear day.

Voted as the new top 3 night scenery in the world (alongside Hong Kong and Monaco), Mt Inasa (Inasayama) has risen to become one of Nagasaki's most prominent attraction. Been to Mt Hakodate and Mt Moiwa in Hokkaido, to admire the night scenery of Hakodate & Sapporo city respectively. To date, my vote still goes to Mt Hakodate because of the unique looking landscape and breathtaking night view.

Mt Inasa stands at 333 m tall and visitors can get a good view of Nagasaki Harbour and Nagasaki city from the observation platform. As the night comes closer, the entire city gradually lights up, creating a spectacular, jewel-sparkling night scenery. It is also referred to as "10 million dollars" night scenery because it cost that much to provide the electrical energy to light up the city!

Took a bus and alighted at Ropeway mae bus stop. Walked towards this big torii which led to the ropeway station (Fuchi Shrine station) at the foot of Inasayama. Before we bought the ticket, we were informed that the view from the observatory was not clear that night. After much contemplation, we stick to the plan and prayed that the weather would improve when we reached the summit. Got off from the ropeway and walked another 5 mins to reach the observatory. Unfortunately, the fog continued to mask our view and we could not capture the best side of Nagasaki city on that night. However, solely based on the landscape, I will still retain my vote on Mt Hakodate.

Ropeway ticket to replace the poor quality photos taken that night.

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Inasayama Observatory 稲佐山山頂展望台
Opening hrs: 0900 - 2200 hrs
Round trip = 1,230 yen; Single trip = 720 yen

How to get there:
(1) Nagasaki Ropeway (長崎ロープウェイ): http://www.nagasaki-ropeway.jp/
Take Bus 3 or 4 from Nagasaki JR Station to Ropeway-mae (ロープウェイ前) bus stop, walk another 2 mins to Fuchi Shrine station (ロープウェイ淵神社駅) to board the ropeway for Inasadake.

Note: Ropeway is suspended for service till 5 Feb 2016 for maintenance work. During this period, buses are deployed to ferry visitors from Nagasaki JR Station to Mt Inasa summit (every 2 hourly on weekdays and hourly on weekends). Do note that prior reservations are required to take this bus service. Bus fee = 1,000 yen

Temporary bus service to Mt Inasa: http://www.nagasaki-ropeway.jp/news/file/62file_20150423180242.pdf

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Video: Inasayama Observatory were featured in 遇约九州, a Taiwan produced travel program promoting Kyushu. Scroll to 29:40 for their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Shikairou 四海楼

Visited 19.03.2014

Chinese food in Japan? One food I was eager to eat was "Champon", a type of noodle soup which is well known in Nagasaki. Despite staying just across Chinatown where there are many restaurants offering this signature food in their menu, I decided to travel two streetcar stations to patronise Shikairou instead. Reason being "Champon" was created by the boss of Shikairou - Chen Shun Ping (陈顺平). Story goes all the way back to Meiji period. Chen Shun Ping created this huge serving of noodles specially for poor Chinese students in Japan. The name "Champon" came from the Hokkien phrase "吃饭" (pronounced as chak-ben) which means "eat food". No one would have expected that this kind act would elevate this bowl of noodles to become a specialty of Nagasaki.

Shikairou is a stand-alone five storey building and the exterior reminded me of some Chinese historical monuments. Bronze statues of two deities, Thousand Miles Eyes (千里眼) and Follow Wind Ears (顺风耳), were placed on both sides of the entrance. Dragon, an auspicious character to Chinese, are craved on stones and displayed on the central stairway. Took the elevator to fifth storey where the main restaurant is located. Restaurant also offers a panoramic view of Inasayama through the tall glass panels. Despite this being my first time eating Chinese food in Japan, Shikairou felt like any high end Chinese restaurant I have patronised before. From the delicate porcelain tableware imprinted with dragons, familiar Chinese characters on menu to traditional Chinese tea, the entire place was infused with Chinese style elements.

Ordered the couple of dishes to try:
(1) Champon noodles (ちゃんぽん)
- Was stunned by the close-to-overflow bowl of noodles when it was served. Milky broth is cooked using chicken bone and pork bone. Rich flavours of the soup is absorbed by the yellow noodles. Other ingredients such as squid, prawns, vegetables, fish cake and shredded egg are added on top to complete this bowl of Champon. This is what a good stomach filling bowl of noodles should be!

(2) Fried rice with corn soup
- Average, was expecting more wok hei fragrance in the fried rice.

(3) Pork belly bun
- The famous and familiar pork belly bun (扣肉包) is known as 角煮 here. Was surprised that their bun is as good as what we get here in a local Chinese restaurant. Meat was tender braised, and the fatty portion of the meat melts in your mouth. This is my favourite dish out of the three ordered.

Do you know? There is a fast food restaurant in Japan, named Ringer Hut, that serves Champon noodles. First established in Nagasaki, Ringer Hut's business has expanded other areas in Japan as well. Though I have spotted several of their outlets during my trips in Japan but have not try it yet.
Website: http://www.ringerhut.jp/

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Shikairou 四海楼
〒850-0921 長崎県長崎市松が枝町4-5
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500, 1700 - 2100 hrs
http://www.shikairou.com/

How to get there? 
(1) By Streetcar - From Nagasaki JR Station, take line 1 and transfer to line 5 at Tsukimachi (築町). Alight at Oura Tenshudo Shita (大浦天主堂下).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Dormy Inn Nagasaki 出島の湯 ドーミーイン長崎

Stayed 19.03.2014 (1 night)
Booked thru' Agoda.

Hotels in Nagasaki city are pretty scattered. On most occasions, I tend to choose hotels that are adjacent to train station mainly for convenience reasons. Decided to stay slightly further from the train station and picked a hotel at the Chinatown district. By streetcar, its about four stations away from Nagasaki JR Station.

First time staying in Dormy Inn and it exceeded my expectations (though the name suggested that it is an inn). More than an inn, this hotel has its own public bath and sauna facilities and provide free supper at night - two perks that identifies itself from other business hotel chains. Located just in front of Chinatown street, the hotel has injected some Chinese style elements amid its modern design e.g. decorative windows and lamps. Front desk is not located on the ground floor - have to take a lift up to third floor. Restaurant and public bath are also located on the same level.

Complimentary soba at night.

Stayed in a twin room (21 m2) - room is spacious with adequate walking space and equipped with basic necessities. After utilising accumulated points from Agoda, one twin room stay per night cost about ~140 SGD. Did find time to utilise their public bath and it was not too bad - two to three pools with different water quality (had one with floating yuzu fruits). At night (2130 - 2300 hrs), they offered free buckwheat soba as supper. Despite being complimentary, the quality was not compromised at all - enjoyed my hot bowl of soba very much! And I actually preferred the soba to the breakfast that was provided on the following morning. Later did I know, this complimentary soba was actually unique to Dormy Inn chain of hotels (not exclusive to Nagasaki branch).

All in all, a pleasant first time experience in a Dormy Inn hotel, and I am now always on a lookout for their branches whenever I plan a trip to Japan.

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What's nearby?

(1) Chinatown street (長崎新地中華街), located just in front of the hotel.  

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Dormy Inn Nagasaki 出島の湯 ドーミーイン長崎
http://www.hotespa.net/hotels/nagasaki/

(1) By Streetcar - From Nagasaki JR Station, take line 1 heading for Shokakuji Shita (正覚寺下). Alight at Tsukimachi (築町).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Nagasaki JR Station 長崎駅, Nagasaki City Streetcar 長崎電気軌道

Nagasaki JR Station, the terminus station on Nagasaki main line.

The following trains serve this station:

(1) Seaside Liner, a local train which commutes between Sasebo and Nagasaki. Time taken to travelled between both locations is ~90 mins.

(2) Kamome, a limited express train which commutes between Hakata and Nagasaki.

Left corner: Ltd Express Kamome departing from Nagasaki JR Station; Right corner: Castella cake can be purchased from souvenir shops in the train station. 

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What's nearby?

(1) Nagasaki City Streetcar (Nagasaki Denki Kidou 長崎電気軌道)
The most convenient way (for tourists) to explore Nagasaki city is to ride on its streetcar! The streetcar network is pretty extensive and most of the attractions are within walking distance from the streetcar stops. Each trip cost 120 yen, regardless of the number of stops travelled. If you are transferring to another line to continue your journey, do request for a transfer ticket from the driver before alighting the streetcar.

Nagasaki City Streetcar Map

Alternatively, purchase a one day pass at 500 yen for unlimited streetcar usage if you plan to take the streetcar more than 4 times/day. The pass can be purchased from the tourist information center in Nagasaki JR Station and front desks of selected hotels. Got mine from Washington Hotel, which is located opposite to Dormy Inn Hotel (the hotel I stayed in).

http://www.naga-den.com/kikaku/language/english

Right: 1 day streetcar pass

(2) AMU Plaza & JR Kyushu Hotel Nagasaki
A shopping complex, which is owned by JR Kyushu, is connected seamlessly to the train station. AMU Plaza houses a cinema and popular brands such as GAP, MUJI, ABC Mart and even Tower Records. If you wish to stay close to train station, JR Kyushu Hotel Nagasaki will be a good option. 

AMU Plaza: http://www.amu-n.co.jp/
JR Kyushu Hotel Nagasaki: http://www.jrk-hotels.co.jp/Nagasaki/

(3) Buses (to Mt Inasa Ropeway)

Take Bus 3 or 4 from the train station to Ropeway-mae (ロープウェイ前) bus stop, walk another 2 mins to Fuchi Shrine Station (ロープウェイ淵神社駅) to board the ropeway for Mt Inasa.
Note: Ropeway is suspended for service till 5 Feb 2016 for maintenance work. During this period, buses are deployed to ferry visitors from Nagasaki JR Station to Mt Inasa summit (every 2 hourly on weekdays and hourly on weekends). Do note that prior reservations are required to take this bus service. 

Temporary bus service to Mt Inasa: http://www.nagasaki-ropeway.jp/news/file/62file_20150423180242.pdf

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Lucky's Burger ラッキーズ鹿子前店

Visited 19.03.2014

US Fleet Activities Sasebo was established here in 1950s. The fashion of eating burgers was also gradually developed, and the initial intent was to provide comfort food to the people serving the naval base here. Quite different from the conventional fast food centres, the burgers here are made upon order and packed with hefty ingredients. From then now, many such restaurants surfaced, offering a good variety of burgers. A Sasebo burger association was also set up to promote this unexpectedly popular gourmet food in the city- a stand bearing this "Burger Boy" mascot will be placed outside these restaurants. Currently, there are about 20 restaurants within this association. 

Sasebo Burger: http://www.sasebo99.com/restaurant/?cate_m=30Tip: Do pick up a Sasebo Burger Map from the Tourist Information Center located within Sasebo JR Station.

Visited Lucky's which is located in Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort. Interior looks like any other fast food restaurant and the usage of blue, red and white colours added a tinge of American flavour. Lucky's offers a standard menu of burgers - beef, chicken, fish and bacon as the main meat ingredient, together with cheese, egg, vegetables and sauces stuffed between two toasted buns. Ordered their signature bacon & egg burger (standard size). Totally awed by the first bite - impressed by how the different flavours of meat, egg, vegetables and mayonnaise sauce, blended harmoniously together in one small simple burger. This is how a good burger should taste like! If you plan to visit Pearl Sea Pearl, I will recommend to pay this restaurant a visit. Definitely one of the food that I will reminisce about when I think of Kyushu. 

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Lucky's Burger ラッキーズ鹿子前店
長崎県佐世保市鹿子前町1055 九十九島パールシーリゾート内
http://www.lucky-group.co.jp/luckys/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2000 hrs

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Other options:

(1) Log Kit ログキット
Their main shop is located at Yatake-cho (矢岳町). Later found out that there is a smaller branch located strategically within Sasebo JR Station. Almost wanted to grab one but had to rush to board the next train.

Log Kit Sasebo JR Station Branch ログキット 佐世保駅店
佐世保市三浦町21-2 JR佐世保駅
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2000 hrs
http://logkit.jp/

(2) Hikari ヒカリ 
Another famous brand in Sasebo, this restaurant is located side by side to Log Kit at Yatake-cho. Fortunately, they have opened another branch in Sasebo Goban Gai 佐世保五番街, a shopping complex which is near Sasebo JR Station.

Hikari Sasebo Goban Gai Branch ヒカリ 佐世保五番街
佐世保市新港町3-1
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs
http://hikari-burger.com/


Log Kit + Hikari Main Shop (Yatake-cho)
佐世保市矢岳町１－１
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs (Log Kit); 1000 - 2000 hrs (Hikari)
Take a local bus from the bus terminal outside the east exit of train station and alight at "Motomachi, Shilitsusogo Byooin Mae 元町・市立総合病院前". Approx 2 mins walk from bus stop.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort 九十九島パールシー リゾート, Kujukushima Sightseeing Ship 九十九島遊覧船

Visited 19.03.2014

Kaiou, the pirate themed sightseeing ship, which has been replaced by Mirai.

Backup plan. Because of the bad weather and failed attempt to capture a good overview of Kujukushima from Funakoshi Observatory, I made a last minute decision to embark on a sightseeing ship cruise to come closer the islands, hoping to overcome the earlier disappointment. It took us 15 minutes to walk from Funakoshi Observatory to Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort, where the sightseeing ship pier is located.
  

Don't be misled by the name of this place (at least I was), as there are no luxurious hotels or private beaches here. Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort (formerly known as Saikai Pearl Sea Resort) is more of a leisure and entertainment zone - a pier for sightseeing cruise ships, an aquarium (Kujukushima Aquarium Umikirara 九十九島水族館 海きらら), shops and restaurants (Lucky's Burger) are all gathered within the same area. There are two sightseeing ships which set sail around Kujukushima and the entire journey takes about 50 minutes: Pearl Queen and Mirai, a pirate themed ship which has replaced the former Kaiou (海王).

Features. Chose to ride on the pirate themed ship, Kaiou, which was making its first sail of the day at 1130 hrs. Bright red hull was very eye catching and made me look forward to the ride. Though crow's nests which served as lookout points were available, it was not accessible (at least no one dare to do so without any safety harnesses on). The pirate theme was also extended to the interior - you can find treasure boxes filled with gold coins, toy skulls hanging from the ceiling, cannon and cannonballs directed outwards.

Ship moving through the narrow water way between two islands.

Experience. Stayed outdoor throughout the entire ship journey. As anticipated, Kujukushima felt less breathtaking when viewed at grade level. With a map in hand, I tried to trace the route that the ship was taking and identify the unique features in some of the islands (that were mentioned in the brochures), while enjoying the cooling sea breeze. You would also notice numerous buoys arranged in a square fashion in the sea - oyster farming is actively practised in the calm waters surrounding Kujukushima. The most exciting part of the ride was when the ship sailed skilfully through a narrow waterway between two islands.

Conclusion. Overall, the sightseeing ship journey was pleasant but did not bring out the best side of Kujukushima. I will still recommend making your way to any of the elevated observation spots to capture a better view of the cluster of islands, especially on a good weather day.

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Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort  九十九島パールシーリゾート
〒858-0922　長崎県佐世保市鹿子前町1008番地
http://www.pearlsea.jp/english/

Sightseeing ship sailing times:
- Pearl Queen: 1000, 1100, 1300, 1400, 1500 hrs
- Mirai: 1130, 1330 and 1430 hrs
Fee = 1,400 yen (adult); 700 yen (child)

How to get there?

By bus from Sasebo JR Station:
- Bus stop #1 (not located in the bus center, just turn left after exiting from train station): for rapid service bus to Pearl Sea Resort (パールシーリゾート). 6 buses per day and bus timings have been arranged to allow seamless transfer from/to Ltd Express Midori train.
Fee = 240 yen. Bus timings: http://www.pearlsea.jp/english/access.html

- Bus stop #6 (in bus center): for local bus to Pearl Sea Resort (パールシーリゾート). Fee = 240 yen.
Bus timings: http://www.pearlsea.jp/access/shieibusjikokuhyou.pdf

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Funakoshi Observatory 船越展望所 (Kujukushima 九十九島)

Visited 19.03.2014

Kujukushima means 99 islands in Japanese. Despite the name, there are a total of 208 islands, most of them are inhabited, within this cluster and it is said to be the most highly concentrated in Japan.

Two ways to see Kujukushima:
(1) There are several designated observation spots in Sasebo city to take in the splendor of Kujukushima. Some are accessible by local buses.
(2) Regular sightseeing ships which departs from Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort at stipulated timings.

My personal preference was to capture an overview of Kujukushima from the observation spots rather than get close to them physically via the sightseeing ship. Unfortunately, the weather was cloudy resulting in poor visibility. Original plan was to visit Tenkaiho (展海峰), which is known to be the best viewing spot for Kujukushima. However, after consulting the staff at the Tourist Information Center at Sasebo JR Station, we made our way to Funakoshi instead, the nearest observatory from the train station. The visibility was poor as expected and I could imagine how scenic the view of the green islands and blue seas here will be on a good day. Hopefully better luck on my next trip to Kyushu.

(1) Funakoshi Observatory 船越展望所
From Sasebo City Bus Center (Bus Stop 7), board the bus heading for Tsukumo-en (つくも苑) via Zoological and Botanical Garden and alight at Kujukushima Botanical and Zoological Garden. Bus journey takes about 25 mins. From the bus stop, walk for another 10 mins before reaching destination. From what I recalled, this winding road leading to the observatory has no designated pedestrian walkway, therefore do stay closer to the sides.  
Website (in Japanese): http://www.sasebo99.com/spot/61464/
Bus schedule (in Japanese):
下船越・展海峰入口・つくも苑(動植物園経由) http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/jikokuhaifu5.html
展海峰入口・つくも苑(赤崎/動植物園) http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/jikokuhaifu6.html

Other well-known observation spots:

(2) Tenkaiho 展海峰
Apart from its 180 degree panoramic view of Kujukushima, Tenhaiho is a popular flower viewing spot too. Be captivated by blooming yellow rapeseed flowers in spring and a carpet of purple cosmos in autumn.
From Sasebo City Bus Center (Bus Stop 7), board the bus heading for Tsukumo-en (つくも苑) and alight at Tenkaiho iriguchi (展海峰入口). Bus journey takes about 40 mins. From the bus stop, walk for another 6 minutes before reaching the destination.
Website (in Japanese): http://www.sasebo99.com/spot/274/
Bus schedule (in Japanese):
下船越・展海峰入口・つくも苑(動植物園経由) http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/jikokuhaifu5.html
展海峰入口・つくも苑(赤崎/動植物園) http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/jikokuhaifu6.html

(3) Ishidake Observatory 石岳展望台
What makes this secluded observatory an attractive one is its elevation. This also implies visitors will need to overcome a gradient to reach here. Did a quick check on online photos posted and I was awed by the picturesque photos taken on a good day. Have noted down this place as a spot to visit next time round.
From Kujukushima Botanical and Zoological Garden, walk for another 30 mins up slope.
Website (in Japanese): http://www.sasebo99.com/spot/273/

(4) Yumiharidake Observatory 弓張岳展望台
Visitors get to capture both Kujukushima and Sasebo city skyline from this observatory. Buses to Yumiharidake are quite infrequent and the bus journey from Sasebo JR Station takes about 25 minutes.
Website: http://www.sasebo99.com/spot/265/
Bus route (in Japanese):
弓張岳 http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/jikokuhaifu21.html

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Funakoshi Observatory 船越展望所
〒857-1231　長崎県佐世保市船越町１４７

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Sasebo JR Station 佐世保駅

Sasebo station, the terminus station on Sasebo line.
Though this is named JR's westernmost station in Japan, geographically this is not true. Nishi Kyushu line, which is operated by Matsuura Tetsudo, extends further from Sasebo to Imari and Arita.

The following trains serve this station:

(1) Seaside Liner, a local train which commutes between Sasebo and Nagasaki.
Time taken to travel between Sasebo and Nagasaki is ~ 90 mins.

(2) Ltd Express Midori train, commutes between Sasebo and Hakata.

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What's nearby:

(1) Bus center, located in front of train station.

- Bus stop #1 (not located in the bus center, just turn left after exiting from train station): for rapid service bus to Pearl Sea Resort (パールシーリゾート). 6 buses per day and bus timings have been arranged to allow seamless transfer from/to Ltd Express Midori train. Fee = 240 yen.
Bus timings: http://www.pearlsea.jp/english/access.html

- Bus stop #6 (in bus center): for local bus to Pearl Sea Resort (パールシーリゾート). Fee = 240 yen.
Bus timings: http://www.pearlsea.jp/access/shieibusjikokuhyou.pdf

- Bus stop #7 (in bus center): for local bus to Kujukushima Zoological and Botanic Garden.
Alight at Kujukushima Zoological and Botanic Garden, walk for another 10 mins to Funakoshi Observatory (船越展望所).

Sasebo City Transportation Bureau (in Japanese): http://city-sasebo-koutuu.jp/index.html

(2) Tourist Information Center

Collect useful maps and brochures, such as Sasebo Burgur map. Managed to chat with an English speaking staff who advised us which observatory to visit to get a better view of Kujukushima (as it was pretty cloudy on our day of visit). You can also purchase Sasebo's mascot "Burger Boy" merchandises, such as collar pins and cellphone straps, here.

Bought a "Burger Boy" collar pin from Tourist Information Center.

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Commemorative stamp:

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 5 Itinerary: Nagasaki 長崎, Sasebo 佐世保

Day 5: 19.03.2014
* Day 3 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

Kujukushima, viewed from Funakoshi Observatory

Breakfast: Hotel Okura JR Huis Ten Bosch ホテルオークラJRハウステンボス

Huis Ten Bosch JR Station ハウステンボス駅 (0852 hrs) > Sasebo JR Station 佐世保駅 (0919 hrs)
by local train.

Sasebo JR Station 佐世保駅  > Saikai National Park, Kujukushima Zoological & Botanical Garden
by taxi. Fee = 1,850 yen (*missed bus heading same destination).

Walked to Funakoshi Observatory 船越展望所.

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Walked to Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort 九十九島パールシー リゾート.
Boarded Kaiou, Kujukushima Sightseeing Ship @ 1130 hrs.

Lunch: Lucky's Burger ラッキーズ鹿子前店, at Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort.

Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort > Sasebo JR Station
by local bus. Fee = 230 yen.

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Sasebo JR Station 佐世保駅 (1427 hrs) > Nagasaki JR Station 長崎駅 (1558 hrs)
by JR Seaside Liner

Nagasaki JR Station 長崎駅 > Dormy Inn Nagasaki 出島の湯 ドーミーイン長崎
by taxi. Fee = ~900 yen.

Check in: Dormy Inn Nagasaki 出島の湯 ドーミーイン長崎

Tsukimachi > Oura Tenshudoshita
by streetcar, via line 5. Fee = 120 yen.

Dinner: Champon noodles @ Shikairou 四海楼

Oura Tenshudoshita > Tsukimachi
by streetcar, via line 5. Fee = 120 yen.

Walked thru' Shinchi Chinatown street.

Shinchimachi > Nagasaki Ropeway Front Bus Stop
by Bus 4. Fee = 150 yen.

Fuchi Shrine Station > Inasadake Station
by Ropeway. Fee = 1,200 yen (round trip)

Visited Inasayama Observatory 稲佐山山頂展望台.

Nagasaki Ropeway Front Bus Stop > Nagasaki Ekimae
by Bus 20. Fee = 150 yen.

Supper #1: Mister Donuts @ AMU Plaza

Nagasaki ekimae > Tsukimachi
by streetcar, via line 1. Fee = 120 yen.

Supper #2: Complimentary yakisoba in Dormy Inn Nagasaki.

- End of Day 5 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hotel Okura JR Huis Ten Bosch ホテルオークラJRハウステンボス

Stayed 18.03.2014 (1 night)
Booked thru' Japanican.

Staying near Huis Ten Bosch was already part of the initial plan because I foresee we would be spending the entire day in the theme park. The lead option was to stay within the theme park, and there are three hotels to choose from - Hotel Amsterdam, Hotel Europe and Hotel ForestVilla. Gave up the idea almost immediately after knowing the room rates (~40,000 yen for a twin room in Hotel Amsterdam and ~50,000 yen for a twin room in Hotel Europe & Hotel ForestVilla). The cheaper options were Hotel Okura and Hotel Nikko, and both of them were located near the entrance of the theme park. Chose the former because it was the closest to the train station.

Highlights:

- Design of this building was inspired by Amsterdam Central Railway Station. The exterior looks very elegant and majestic, and felt like it was part of the theme park. Personally I haven't been to Amsterdam before, but it does bear high resemblances to the pictures found online.

View of Huis Ten Bosch from hotel room.

- Booked the twin room (facing train station, inclusive of breakfast) at 20,000 yen (~125 SGD). Not too sure whether it was due to low occupancy rate that day, our rooms were upgraded to the side facing the theme park. A good view of Huis Ten Bosch and European style cottages/houses can be seen from our room, which made this upgrade pretty worthwhile. Room was very spacious (>30 m2) and cosy, more than enough for a good night rest after spending the entire day & evening in the park.

Theme park beautifully lit up as the sky darkened.

- Hotel also has its own hot spring communal baths, and apparently this is the only one you can find around the area. Hot spring source contains sodium and calcium chlorides, and water is slightly brownish in colour due to the presence of iron and manganese. Public bath facilities are closed between 0000 to 0600 hrs, and tend to get crowded after the theme park is closed for the day (everyone flocking back to take a bath before bedtime). Visited the public bath early in the morning (~ 0615 hrs) and was surprised to see quite a decent group of people enjoying their first soak of the day. There is a Family Mart (but not operating around the clock, till 2300 hrs), souvenir shop (where you can grab Huis Ten Bosch's related merchandises, till 2200 hrs) and even a bakery (till 1900 hrs) are operated within the hotel.

Bottom: Breakfast facing the houses and dock in Camellia restaurant.

- Breakfast was held in Camellia (カメリア). Selected a seat near the tall glass windows overlooking beautiful European style houses and their own dock. Meal was buffet style with a good selection of both Western and Japanese cuisine. Was targeting the Western section for that morning. Excited to see a omelette station where you can choose your favourite fillings and have your food cooked on the spot by the chef. There were also various types of bread to choose from, however still not as impressive as what I have experienced before in Hokkaido (Kushiro Royal Inn).

- In short, Hotel Okura has a lot to offer: convenient location to the biggest theme park in Nagasaki, cosy rooms, hot spring facilities and various restaurants all housed within this majestic looking building.

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Hotel Okura JR Huis Ten Bosch ホテルオークラJRハウステンボス
 〒859-3296 長崎県佐世保市ハウステンボス町10番
http://www.jrhtb.hotelokura.co.jp/
< 5 mins walk from Huis Ten Bosch JR Station.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Huis Ten Bosch JR Station ハウステンボス駅, Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch Train

Huis Ten Bosch JR Station, along Omura line.
A European themed train station, has the same name and design as the adjacent theme park.

Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch train

Following trains serve the station:

(1) Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch (HTB) train commutes between Hakata and Huis Ten Bosch, and train journey takes approx 100 mins. This train makes a total of 10 round trips per day. 

* Do note that Ltd Exp HTB train carriages are connected to Ltd Exp Midori train. Therefore, don't be surprised if you see train carriages with different design being pulled together into the station. 

Though this is a special train, there is no particular outstanding feature when compared to other trains - except being more colourful.

(2) Seaside Liner (local train) commutes between Sasebo and Nagasaki, makes a stop at this station.

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What's nearby? 

(1) HTB, a European themed park. About 7 mins walk from the train station.

The majestic looking Okura Hotel in the background

(2) Hotels 

HTB is a huge theme park that require at least one day to cover completely. Moreover, Kingdom of Lights, the most anticipated highlight in their calendar of events, is held every night from Oct to Apr annually. Therefore, we decided to stay one night near the park to participate in the annual event.

Though there are several hotels, such as Hotel Amsterdam, Hotel Europe, Watermark Hotel, conveniently located within the theme park itself, most of them are quite pricey. There are slightly cheaper options which are located at the peripherals of the theme park - Hotel Okura JR HTB and Hotel Nikko, to choose from.

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Commemorative stamp:

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 4 Itinerary: Nagasaki 長崎, Huis Ten Bosch 豪斯登堡

Day 4: 18.03.2014
* Day 2 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

View of Huis Ten Bosch from Domtoren

Morning stroll to Onsen Park, Siebold no Yu and Siebold's Footbath.

Breakfast: Warakuen 和楽園

Warakuen 和楽園 > Ureshino Onsen Bus Center 嬉野温泉バスセンター
by free hotel shuttle service.

Ureshino Onsen Bus Center 嬉野温泉バスセンター (0912 hrs) > Takeo Onsen JR Station 武雄温泉駅 (0945 hrs)
by JR Kyushu Bus Ureshino line. Fee = 640 yen

Lunch #1: Saga Beef Sukiyaki Bento, from Kairo-do cafe

Takeo Onsen JR Station 武雄温泉駅 (1041 hrs) > Huis Ten Bosch JR Station ハウステンボス駅(1119 hrs)
by Limited Express Huis Ten Bosch.

Check in: Hotel Okura JR Huis Ten Bosch ホテルオークラJRハウステンボス

Visited Huis Ten Bosch (HTB).
1 day Adult Passport: 5,900 yen

Lunch #2: One Piece Restaurant @ HTB.

Dinner: Pinoccio @ HTB

- End of Day 4 -