Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Soan Yokocho 宗庵 よこ長

Visited 17.03.2014

Ureshino Onsen's gourmet food: Tofu soup, otherwise known as onsen yudofu, is a specialty of Ureshino Onsen. In this small onsen town, beancurd is boiled slowly in Ureshino's very own hot spring water. After a while, the water will turn milky and beancurd becomes more silky in texture. Why? The hot spring water causes the proteins in the tofu to dissolve and gives rise to the change in colour of water - a phenomenon which we normally do not see if this is boiled in water.

Due to the popularity of onsen yudofu, many restaurants here are offering this specialty dish on their menu. Came to Soan Yokocho, which is by far the most widely publicized restaurant (at least I have seen it being featured on tv programs a couple of times). English menu was also available in the shop.

Special yudofu set lunch

Ordered two different set meals, each set comes with rice, pickles and side dishes:
- Normal set (湯どうふ定食): 790 yen (*850 yen after 1 Apr 2014)
- Special set (特選湯どうふ定食): 990 yen (*1,080 yen after 1 Apr 2014), which comes with seafood (salmon and prawn) in the soup.

Delicious!

Thought the soup was going to be bland on the first look. However, with vegetables and seafood simmered together in the soup and the additional touch of soybean flavour which was introduced as the beancurd gradually "melted" during the cooking process, all these elements combined to make this soup exceptionally tasty. The beancurd became silkier in texture, well-balanced between firm and soft. Every sip of the soup comes with a sense of satisfaction and exclamation on how a simple soup dish can be so fulfilling! Definitely a must try gourmet food for anyone who comes to Ureshino Onsen.

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Soan Yokocho 宗庵 よこ長
〒843-0301 佐賀県嬉野市嬉野町下宿乙2190
http://yococho.com/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs (Closed on Wed)
~5 mins walk from Ureshino Onsen Bus Terminal.

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Video: Restaurant was featured in 遇约九州, a travel programme on Kyushu. Scroll to 3:50 for their recommendation.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Takeo Onsen JR Station 武雄温泉駅 , Kairodo Saga Beef Sukiyaki Bento 佐賀牛すき焼き弁当

Takeo Onsen JR Station, along Sasebo line.

The following limited express trains stop at this station:
(1) Limited Express Midori train, commutes between Hakata & Sasebo.
(2) Limited Express Huis Ten Bosch train, commutes between Hakata & Huis Ten Bosch.
Time taken to travel from Hakata to Takeo Onsen is ~70 mins.

This train station will also become part of Kyushu Shinkansen - West Kyushu route, which is currently under construction. West Kyushu route will run from Takeo Onsen to Nagasaki, passing by Ureshino Onsen, Omura and Isahaya. However, service is expected to start only from 2023 onwards.

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Remember...

Apart from Ureshino Onsen, the other fond memory I had of Saga Prefecture was its beef ekiben! Sold by the cafe "Kairo-do" located within Takeo Station JR Station, this "Saga Beef Sukiyaki Bento (佐賀牛すき焼き弁当)" has been voted the best in Kyushu for two consecutive years in 2012 and 2013.
Saga has always been well known for its high quality marbled beef. But what surprised me was A5 grade beef, the highest standard among all, is utilised for this ekiben! Be overwhelmed by the sweet fragrant sukiyaki sauce when you unveiled the packaging. Well-marinated meat is laid over rice, which is already infused with the rich flavours of both the sauce and beef. Tender and juicy beef is so appetising that makes one yearn for more!

Priced at 1,300 yen (~15 SGD), this ekiben is definitely worth a try!

Kairodo (カイロ堂)'s website: http://kairodo.com/

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What's nearby? 

(1) Tourist Information Center, located within the train station.

(2) Takeo Onsen, a hot spring town which traces its history almost 12 centuries back, is about 15 mins walk away from the train station. Will want to explore Takeo Onsen and Takeo city on my next trip.

Clear directions to bus stop for Ureshino line JR Bus.

(3) JR Bus for Ureshino Onsen
Bus fee = 660 yen
Follow directions to the bus stop and board the Ureshino line (嬉野線) JR Bus heading for Ureshino Onsen. 30 mins to hourly bus interval and the time taken to Ureshino Onsen Bus Terminal is about 30 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.jrkbus.co.jp/rosen_map/ureshino_route01.html

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 3 Itinerary: Saga 佐賀, Ureshino Onsen 嬉野温泉

Day 3: 17.03.2014
* Day 1 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

Todoroki no taki

Breakfast: MOS Burger @ Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit

Hakata JR Station 博多駅 (1032 hrs) > Takeo Onsen JR Station 武雄温泉駅 (1141 hrs)
by Midori Express 7.

Takeo Onsen > Ureshino Onsen Bus Center 嬉野温泉バスセンター
by JR Kyushu Bus Ureshino line. Fee = 640 yen.

Lunch: Tofu soup @ Soan Yokocho 宗庵 よこ長

Visited:
(1) Toyotamahime Shrine 豐玉姬神社
(2) Todoroki no taki 轟の淹

Check in: Warakuen 和楽園

Dinner: Warakuen 和楽園

- End of Day 3 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tetsunabe 鉄なべ

Visited 16.03.2014

Tetsunabe started off as an Izakaya and became well-known for their pan fried dumplings or yaki gyoza. So far, most of the gyoza I had was during visits to ramen shop, typically ordered as side-dishes. What makes their gyoza stand out from the conventional ones?
(1) These handmade gyoza are smaller than usual, which means each gyoza fits one mouth nicely.
(2) They served in the piping hot iron pan, right off the stove.

Wanted to visit the main shop which is located near Gion subway station. Later found out that they have a smaller branch in Fukuoka Parco, which is easily accessible via Tenjin's underground shopping street. [Note: Could not locate any information on this branch from Fukuoka Parco and Tetsunabe main page. Branch may have closed down, therefore will be safer to patronise the main shop.]

Ordered a 10 + 6 pieces pan fried gyoza and 7 pieces gyoza in soup. Skin of the pan-fried gyoza was thin and crispy, sealing the juicy meat and cabbage fillings - simply irresistible! Their secret ponzu sauce elevates the flavours of the delicious gyoza further. Would recommend the pan fried version more than the ones in soup. Apart from gyozas, other popular dishes that Tetsunabe has to offer include stewed chicken wings and potato salad. Simple yet delicious, this is a local delicacy not to be missed when you visit Fukuoka.

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Tetsunabe Main Shop 鉄なべ

http://www.tetsunabe.co.jp/
3 mins walk from Gion Subway Station Exit 5.
Opening hrs: 1700 - 0000 hrs

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天满宫

Visited 16.03.2014

The main hall (Honden); Kisa no ume on the left and Tobi ume on the right

History. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is an important landmark in Dazaifu city. It is sacred to the memory of Michizane Sugawara (菅原道真) famously known as the God of literature or calligraphy. In 901 A.D., Michizane was demoted from a high ranking government official and sent to exile in Dazaifu, where he died two years later. Michizane is celebrated as a man, pure in heart and deed, and after his death, he was deified and worshiped as a god in Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, which is built on the site of his grave. Many people, especially students, make their way to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine to pray for excellence in academic studies.

Top left: Taikobashi; Top bottom: bronze statue of ox at the entrance.

Layout. Exit Nishitetsu Dazaifu station and turn right. Walk to the end of Omotesando and turn left as you approach the bronze statue of an ox. Cross the Taikobashi (太鼓橋) which is made up of three bridges - the first arched bridge represents the past, next flat bridge the present and last arched bridge the future. Shinji ike (心字池) is just beneath the bridges and the name of the pond came about because it resembles the character "heart" (心). The first shrine was built in 905 A.D. and a larger structure was later constructed in 919 A.D. but was destroyed by war and fire. The current main hall (Honden), which displayed fine and intricate Monoyama style architecture, was constructed in 1591 and has been preserved in the same state since then. The main hall has also been designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.

Plum. As there are about 6,000 plum trees in the compound, the shrine is popular with visitors especially during the spring season. There are two plum trees planted on both sides of the main hall. The one of the right is called Tobi ume or flying plum (飛梅). The name came from the legend of this plum tree uprooting itself from Kyoto (where Michizane came from) to reunite with Michizane in Dazaifu. Unfortunately, almost all of the flowers of Tobi-ume have already withered during my visit - the best time to witness the bloom is in late January. The tree on the left side is named Kisa no ume (皇后の梅) and was planted in 1922 when Teimei Kogo (貞明皇后) came to the shrine for worship. Most of the plum trees are found in the park located outside the main hall. Made use of the remaining time before the shrine was closed for the day to admire these beautiful late bloomers.

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Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天满宫
〒818-0117　福岡県太宰府市宰府4丁目7番1号
Opening hrs:
Jun - Aug: 0630 - 2000 hrs
Sep - May: 0630 - 1900 hrs
http://www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp/en

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Video: Scroll to 40:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station 太宰府駅, Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店

Dazaifu Station, the terminus station on Nishitetsu Dazaifu line.
* JR Kyushu Rail Pass does not cover Nishitetsu operated lines.

Transfer at Futsukaichi Station (二日市駅) to Dazaifu line. Approx 5 mins train ride between both train stations. 

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What's nearby? 

(1) Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, the most prominent landmark & attraction in Dazaifu city.

(2) Kasanoya かさの家 

Red bean mochi cake, otherwise beautifully known as plum tree branch cake (梅枝ヶ餅), is a snack famous in this area.
History: Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine was built in memory of Michizane Sugawara (菅原道真), a famous poet and politician during Heian Period of Japan (794 - 1185). It was said that when Michizane Sugawara was battling with hunger while working in Dazaifu, an old lady handed him a plum tree branch which has a piece of warm red bean cake inserted into it. That was how the name of this red bean cake came about.

There are many shops selling this snack along Omotesando which stretches from the train station to the shrine. Came to Kasanoya and bought one to try just before the shop closed for the day. Simple yet delectable snack - sweet red bean filling and lightly toasted, chewy mochi skin. 

(3) Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店

Exterior of Starbucks

As you walk along Omotesando, there is one shop that will surely catch your attention. I must say this is most unique and artistically designed Starbucks branch I have seen so far in my life. Designed by renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma (隈 研吾), he wanted to create a fusion between traditional and modern culture using natural materials such as wood and bamboo. Numerous wooden sticks intersecting each another in an repetitive fashion created a frame on top of the rustic cemented walls. Unexpectedly, the finished product looked aesethically pleasing. You can't help exclaiming in excitement (internally) as you scan every corner of this piece of artwork, while enjoying your cup of coffee in a totally different ambience. 

Interior of Starbucks.

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Commemorative stamps: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Motoyoshiya 吉本屋

Visited 16.03.2014

Spot the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent!

After an enjoyable tea break at River Flow (リバーフロー 紅茶の店), we decided to walk back to Yanagawa train station and along the way, we would stop by Motoyoshiya for steamed eel rice. Thought we could avoid the lunch hour queue, but at 2 pm in the afternoon there were four to five groups of guests standing in front of this two storey tall, traditional Japanese style house. Got to see the infamous blackish and oily exhaust vent where the aroma of grilled eel is continuously being sucked out from the kitchen and introduced to the environment, luring patrons to this restaurant. Had to wait for about half an hour before seats were available. Sat down comfortably on the tatami mats and ordered a grilled eel set each.

Secret sauce. Yanagawa is famous for unagi no seiro mushi (鰻の蒸籠蒸), which is essentially grilled eel put on rice and steamed. There are numerous restaurant here offering this famous traditional dish and Motoyoshiya has been around for more than 300 years! Eel is dipped into its secret sauce and is grilled to golden brown. Next, the grilled eel is put on top of the rice and steamed twice in a bamboo basket. The dish is garnished with shredded egg just before served. One thing that I always hope for when eating eel is that the fine bones are removed cleanly from the meat. Motoyoshiya did quite a good job in this, at least I was not pricked by any bones during the course of eating. Though the meat is tender, I found the meat slightly charred to my liking. What I like most about this dish was its fragrant rice which is soaked up with the light, savoury sauce during the steaming process. Every mouthful of rice was so satisfying to my tastebuds and I gobbled up the entire portion of rice within minutes! Though I am not a big fan of eel, I will still recommend to give this dish a try. I will definitely eat this again for the sake of its secret sauce and rice.  

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Motoyoshiya 吉本屋
福岡県柳川市旭町69
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2100 hrs
Approx 12 mins walk from Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station.