Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉, Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝

Visited 12.10.2015 (Mon)





On this trip to Tohoku region, we visited two hot spring spots in Yamagata Prefecture - Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉 and Akayu Onsen 赤湯温泉. Located in Obanazawa city 尾花沢市, Ginzan Onsen is a humble hot spring town secluded in a mountainous area and is well known for its retro, wooden buildings, constructed from late Taisho period to early Showa period, that lined along the banks of Ginzangawa (Ginzan River 銀山川).



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Highlights:

History. As the name suggests (Ginzan translates to silver mountain), silver mining began in this area about 550 years ago (in 1456). Subsequently, the discovery of hot spring source by the miners led to the establishment of ryokan and engagement of small businesses in the area. Unfortunately, a huge flood which broke out in 1913 (Taisho 2) destroyed most of the ryokan, coupled with a significant reduction of hot spring water, affected livelihood in this town. In the beginning of Showa period (1926), the quantity of hot spring water derived from the source recovered and this became the catalyst to the rejuvenation of Ginzan Onsen. Ryokan, comprised of three to four storey tall wooden buildings, were rebuilt alongside Ginzangawa while other amenities such as bridges and walkways were also constructed. As part of conservation efforts, most of the wooden buildings are carefully preserved/maintained in their original state and the ryokan here continue to serve its customers faithfully till today. Improved accessibility, including the opening of Yamagata Shinkansen (Oishida Station 大石田駅 being the nearest train station), brought along an influx of visitors to Ginzan Onsen, elevating it into an iconic attraction exclusive to Yamagata Prefecture.













Nostalgia. There are many things I like about Ginzan Onsen. Located in a highland, the town is safely tucked away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The main hot spring street is compact and easy to navigate. The pedestrians-dedicated walkways which run alongside Ginzangawa is perfect for a leisure stroll anytime of the day. The sense of nostalgia grows at night when the western style street lamps and charming traditional houses are gradually lit up, transforming the town into a picturesque scenery which is completely different from its daytime outlook. I enjoyed walking to and fro the main street (between Shirogane Bridge 白銀橋 and Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝), listening to the therapeutic sound of flowing water in Ginzagawa, admiring the architectural details of Taisho era buildings and the craftsmanship on Kote-e 鏝絵, the colourful pictures carved on plaster walls, featured on some of the buildings and lastly, rewarding my legs with a soak at the public footbath.







Trails. The sound of gushing water grew louder as we ventured into the back of the hot spring town. The source actually came from a 22 m tall waterfall, named Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝, which is part of Ginzangawa. Due to time constraint and unfavourable weather, we did not get to visit Shirogane Koen 白銀公園, located upstream of Shirogane no taki. Within the park, there are trails leading to remains of silver mines, which the lives of locals depended on centuries ago.





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Ginzan Onsen 銀山温泉,  Shirogane no taki 白銀の滝
http://www.ginzanonsen.jp/index.html

How to get there?

(1) By bus.
- From Oishida JR Station 大石田駅, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes approx 40 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base.html
- From Yamagata Airport 山形空港, board Hanagasa Bus はながさバス heading for Ginzan Onsen and alight at the last stop. There are only two round trips per day and bus journey takes approx 1.5 hr.
Bus schedule: http://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base3.html

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