Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Toyoko Inn Hachinohe Ekimae 東横イン八戸駅前, Comfort Hotel Hachinohe コンフォートホテル八戸

Toyoko Inn Hachinohe Ekimae 東横イン八戸駅前

Stayed 14.05.2016 (Sat)

Booked thru' Toyoko Inn's website

Single room = 4,617 yen

Comfort Hotel Hachinohe コンフォートホテル八戸

Stayed 15.05.2016 (Sun)

Booked thru' Jalan.net

Double economy room = 4,200 yen

Pit stop. Made Hachinohe my second pit stop on this Tohoku trip to facilitate train travel to Kuji 久慈 (via JR Hachinohe line), Hokkaido (via Tohoku & Hokkaido Shinkansen line) and Mutsu Yokohama むつ横浜 (via Aoimori Railway and JR Ominato line). There are a handful of accommodation options near Hachinohe JR Station therefore I did not face much difficulties in securing rooms for two nights. Bunked in Toyoko Inn Hachinohe Ekimae 東横イン八戸駅前 on the first night and Comfort Hotel Hachinohe コンフォートホテル八戸 on the following night. For the former, almost everything in this branch bred familiarity since Toyoko Inn applies the same business model all their hotels. In short, Toyoko Inn is a no frills accommodation choice (basic amenities and complimentary breakfast) and is still one of my top choice of hotel whenever I am staying overnight in a city in Japan. Toyoko Inn's branch in Hachinohe is about a minute walk from the east exit of train station and the building, standing on the opposite side of the road, can be easily identified by its signature architecture design from afar.



Debut. On the other hand, this was my debut stay in Comfort Hotel; finally added this to the list of hotel chains that I have stayed before in Japan (Chisun Hotel, Hotel Route Inn, Dormy Inn, Toyoko Inn, Super Hotel and Sunroute Hotel). Comfort Hotel is a brand under Choice Hotels Japan group, which also operates Comfort Inn and Comfort Suites. Reserved the double economy room ダブルエコノミー, one of three room types available (twin economy room and handicapped room) in this particular branch. Room size is 13 m2, quite the typical size one will get from budget business hotel in Japan, with adequate walking space even after laying an open luggage on the floor. The interior design takes on a more contemporary feel, with similar furniture layout as Toyoko Inn.

Plus. One feature which I like about their room is that power sockets are found just beside the bed. In addition to that, there is a small holder on top of the power sockets for handphones and chargers to be placed on. Complimentary coffee dispensed from machine located at the lobby can also be enjoyed by hotel guests - another notable value added service. There are also coin operated clothes washing and drying machines; essential for those who intend to do their laundry in the hotel. Similar to Toyoko Inn, complimentary breakfast is extended to hotel guests, starting as early as 0630 hrs. Unfortunately I did not get to enjoy it as I left the hotel before the breakfast timing to catch the train which departs for Kuji at 0535 hrs. From photos featured online, it seemed that Comfort Hotel offers quite a decent breakfast menu - a good variety of soups, salads, bread, pilaf, fruits and other side dishes. So it looks like I have to return to another branch to "officially" wrap up my stay in a Comfort Hotel!

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Toyoko Inn Hachinohe Ekimae 東横イン八戸駅前

〒039-1102  青森県八戸市一番町1-3-17

https://www.toyoko-inn.com/search/detail/00106/

1 minute walk from Hachinohe JR Station East Exit.

Comfort Hotel Hachinohe コンフォートホテル八戸

〒039-1101　青森県八戸市尻内町館田2-16

https://www.choice-hotels.jp/hotel/hachinohe/

2 minutes walk from Hachinohe JR Station East Exit.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Hachinohe JR Station 八戸駅

Hachinohe JR Station 八戸駅 is located on Tohoku Shinkansen line 東北新幹線 and Hachinohe line 八戸線, in Aomori Prefecture. Well known for its fishing port which has achieved the highest amount of catch unloaded in Japan several times in its history, Hachinohe city 八戸市 is one of three major cities in Aomori Prefecture, alongside Aomori city 青森市 and Hirosaki city 弘前市.

Made Hachinohe one of my pit stops during my second trip to Tohoku region. From here, I traveled (1) to Kuji city, in Iwate Prefecture via JR Hachinohe line, (2) to Hokkaido on board Hayabusa via Tohoku and Hokkaido Shinkansen line and (3) Mutsu Yokohama むつ横浜 via Aoimori Railway and transferred to JR Ominato line at Noheji.

Trains serving this station include:

(1) Tohoku Emotion 東北エモーション, a themed train which commutes between Hachinohe 八戸駅 and Kuji 久慈駅. The train made its maiden trip in Oct 2013 and was introduced by JR East as part of recovery effort to promote tourism in Tohoku region after 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake. What makes Tohoku Emotion special is its mobile restaurant concept referred to as Tohoku restaurant 東北レストラン. Passengers are able to enjoy a full course meal which is specially designed for this train, utilising ingredients sourced from Tohoku region and prepared right on board the train’s open kitchen. Tohoku Emotion usually operates on Fridays, weekends and public holidays, and makes one round trip on its day of operation. Prior reservation for this train is required and can be made through View Travel びゅう旅行, a JR owned travel agency which is usually located in larger train stations.
https://www.jreast.co.jp/tohokuemotion/m/index.html

(2) Resort Umineko リゾートうみねこ, commutes between Hachinohe 八戸駅 and Kuji 久慈駅 via Hachinohe line. The train typically operates during weekends and public holidays, and makes one round trip on its day of operation. Unique features of this train are its large windows and seats that are oriented to face the sea, thus enabling passengers to capture a panoramic view of Pacific Ocean throughout the entire journey.
https://www.jr-morioka.com/noccha/train/umineko/

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus stops, on the east and west exit of train station.

West exit 西口:
- For JR Bus Tohoku Oirase-go おいらせ号 heading for Towada Art Center 十和田市現代美術館, 奥入瀬渓流 and Towada-ko 十和田湖.
Bus schedule: https://www.jrbustohoku.co.jp/route/detail.php?r=45&rc=11

West exit.

East exit 東口:
Platform #1:
- For Shiei bus / City operated bus 市営バス and Nanbu bus 南部バス heading for Chushingai Terminal / City Center Terminal 中心街タミナル (Central Hachinohe). Alight at Yooka machi 八日町 for Hachinohe Yatai-mura Miroku Yokocho 八戸屋台村みろく横丁.
Bus schedule: https://www.city.hachinohe.aomori.jp/bus/new/jikokuhyou/jikoku/0509_001.pdf

Night life. During my stay in Hachinohe city, I dropped by Hachinohe Yatai-mura Miroku Yokocho 八戸屋台村みろく横丁, one of the eight alleys of Hachinohe no Yokocho 八戸の横丁. A peek into Hachinohe's night life as locals hang out and relax at these alleys, lined with izakaya, eateries and bars, after a hard day's work.
Hachinohe Yatai-mura Miroku Yokocho: http://36yokocho.com/

Platform #4:
- For Nanbu's Hasshoku 100 yen bus 八食100円バス heading for Hasshoku Center 八食センター.
Bus schedule: http://www.nanbubus.co.jp/pdf/routebus/timetable/hasyoku/hasyoku100.pdf

Platform #5:
- For Towada Kankou Detetsu Bus 十和田観光電鉄バス Towada-shi ~ Hachinohe line 十和田市~八戸線 heading for Towada Chuo 十和田中央.
Bus schedule: http://www.toutetsu.co.jp/jikoku.htm

Bus Platform #1 at East Exit.

(2) Aoimori Tetsudo Hachinohe Station 青い森鉄道八戸駅, shares the same train station.
The conventional railway line between Aomori and Hachinohe is operated by Aoimori Tetsudo / Aoimori Railway 青い森鉄道 after the opening of Tohoku Shinkansen line in 2002 and its subsequent extension to Shin Aomori in 2010.
On Day 4, I utilised Aoimori Railway to commute from Hachinohe to Noheji 野辺地駅, continued my train journey northwards via JR Ominato line 大湊線 on Shimokita Peninsula 下北半島 and alighted at Mutsu Yokohama 陸奥横浜駅 for Yokohama Nanohana Festival 横浜菜の花フェスティバル.

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Commemorative stamp:

Aoimori Railway Hachinohe Station

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Jingisukan Anbe ジンギスカン あんべ

Visited 14.05.2016 (Sat)

Relive the experience. Returned to Tono JR Station 遠野駅 before 3 pm after visiting Densyoen 伝承園 and Kappabuchi カッパ淵, both situated in the outskirts. Had ample time to explore the town further before catching the returning train to Shin Hanamaki 新花巻駅 at 5 pm; decided to seek advice from the tourist information center, located just opposite to the train station. The staff asked me whether I would like to try Tono's local specialty and I was surprised to find out that this recommended dish was Jingisukan / Genghis Khan ジンギスカン, otherwise known as grilled mutton on a hot plate. I have always thought that this was a dish popular in Hokkaido; in fact, I am a fan of Jingisukan and had savoured it twice on two separate trips to Hokkaido (in 2012 and 2013). Jingisukan has been around in Tono all the way back since 1930s and it is well liked by the locals probably to the point that mutton sells better than beef in the supermarkets here.

Followed the staff's recommendation to Anbe あんべ, an established Jingisukan restaurant in Tono and currently managed by the third generation. The first generation owner of Anbe started offering Jingisukan on its menu in 1955, utilising mutton that were bred locally and at the same time, created a homemade sauce to complement the grilled meat. It was so well received hat it became a local favourite ever since. Even though the decline in local supply of lambs in recent years forced Anbe to turn to mutton imported from Australia, the quality of food is not compromised and the delicious flavours of Jingisukan grilled mutton continues to conquer the tastebuds. In Tono, locals can enjoy Jingisukan outdoors by renting a custom made bucket in which fuel can be put into and dome shaped skillet can sit on top of it. The idea of "bucket Jingisukan" was originated by the second generation owner of Anbe and it has became a unique characteristic of Tono's version of Jingisukan.

2nd in a row! There is a homely ambience in the restaurant, with both conventional and tatami seating available. The day before I was blown away by the ultimate melt-in-your-mouth Maesawa beef in Ogata and today I am sinking my teeth into tender mutton grilled on a dome shaped skillet. Ordered the lamb shoulder set ラムかた [1,050 yen] which was accompanied with onion (玉葱), green pepper (ピーマン) and beansprouts (もやし). After the skillet was warmed up, I used the block of fat to grease the skillet. Placed the meat on the skillet and turned the meat every now and then until it was cooked to about medium / medium well so as to retain its tenderness. Dipped the meat into their secret sauce before savouring the meat. The lamb was very tender, succulent and not gamey at all. For the second day in a row, I was overwhelmed by yet another gastronomic experience! Could not help but to exclaim "oishii" to myself while I picked up the grilled meat one after another one.

Without a doubt, my day trip in Tono ended well on a good note!

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Jingisukan Anbe ジンギスカンあんべ

〒028-0542 岩手県遠野市早瀬町2丁目4-12
Operating hours: 1000 - 1900 hrs

https://www.anbe.jp/sub31.htm

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Approx. 10 mins walk from Tono JR Station 遠野駅.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Tono Folklore Museum 遠野物語の館

Visited 14.05.2016 (Sat)



Land of folklore. Travelled to Tono city by SL Ginga SL銀河 and planned to visit only Densyoen 伝承園 and Kappabuchi カッパ淵. However, I completed the tour earlier than planned; made my way to the tourist information center (nearby Tono JR Station 遠野駅) to seek advice from the staff on other places of interest which I should visit in the city. She highly recommended me to visit Tono Folklore Museum 遠野物語の館. Tono is said to be the hometown of folklore as this was the place where many of these stories originated from. The book titled Tono Monogatari 遠野物語 (The Legends of Tono), was published in 1910 by Kunio Yanagita 柳田國男, who is affectionately known as the father of Japanese folklore. The stories included tales about mountain gods, Kappa 河童 (water spirit that pull young children into waters), Tengu 天狗, Zashiki-warashi 座敷童子 (Zashiki-warashi are spirits that lived in a compartment where tatami mats and futons are stored and it is said that the families whose houses have such spirits living in them are blessed with wealth and fortune) and other mythical beings, and these stories were passed down to Kunio Yanagita by Kizen Sasaki 佐々木喜善, a Japanese folkorist from Tono. And thanks to the written records, future generations are able to enjoy these interesting folklore that are unique to Japanese culture and heritage.

In the spirit of preserving and promoting these assets, Tono Folklore Museum was set up in the city to provide a platform for visitors to better understand these folklore. Part of museum is housed in a former sake store's warehouse and is divided into three sections. Tono-za 遠野座 is a theater where performing arts and even narration of the folk tales using Tono's dialect are held. There is also an exhibition hall dedicated to Kunio Yanagita. Apart from the displays portraying his biography and career, two places of great significance to him were also introduced. First is Takazen Ryokan 高善旅館, an inn which Kunio Yanagita stayed during his three trips to Tono; the second is his final place of residence 旧柳田國男隠居所 where he spent his sunset years together with his wife in Tokyo, before he passed away on 8 Aug 1962. The latter was donated to Tono city in Aug 1991 and the entire house was disassembled, transported to Tono and rebuilt at its current location.





Interactive. Finally to the highlight of the museum. Mukashibanashi-kura 昔話蔵 is where these traditional folklore are brilliantly presented in various forms of media. Regardless of age, these interactive exhibits will be able to arouse the interest of its audience. Colourful and beautifully illustrated cut out boards, each depicting a story, are put up on display; animated shadow pictures appear right in front of your eyes when the display items are touched; and many other intriguing features for visitors to experience and learn about Tono's folklore. For foreigners like myself, I was delighted to find English translated version of the narration on most of the display boards here which made reading an ease. This is truly a surprise find for me and an excellent place that I will recommend to put into your itinerary if you plan to visit Tono city.

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Tono Folklore Museum 遠野物語の館
〒028-0523　岩手県遠野市中央通り2-11
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Admission fee = 500 yen
http://www.city.tono.iwate.jp/index.cfm/48,23855,166,html

How to get there?

(1) By foot. About 8 minutes walk from Tono JR Station 遠野駅.

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Densyoen 伝承園

Visited 14.05.2016 (Sat)

Ended an amazing train ride on board SL Ginga SL銀河 at Tono JR Station 遠野駅 and transferred to a local bus to visit two places of interest in the outskirts - Densyoen 伝承園 and Kappabuchi カッパ淵. At Densyoen, visitors can get to understand Tono's cultural history and folk crafts through the exhibits on display and also be transported back in time to gain insight of the life of farmers in the old days. The entire compound is actually not very big and it takes less than an hour to complete the tour. There is a cafeteria located near the entrance of Densyoen, where visitors can experience local cuisine and snacks unique to this area.

Udon for lunch in the cafeteria.

Magariya, a designated national cultural property, showcasing the atypical layout of farmhouses found in Tono city in the old days.

Magariya. The main attraction in Densyoen is magariya 曲り家, a L-shaped farmhouse commonly found in Tono city in the past. This particular farmhouse, which was re-assembled here in 1978 (Showa 53), originally belonged to Kikuchi family. The straw thatched roof building was first constructed in 1750 in Otomocho 小友町 and was later designated as a national cultural property in 1976 (Showa 51). What is atypical about its layout is that the farmhouse has a horse stable, located at one end, housed under the same roof with the farmer's residence. This goes to show how important the horses were to the locals back in the old days. There are traditional farming tools and equipment found in the farmhouse, and exhibits on silkworm cultivation, an important source of income for the people in those days. Apart from this L-shaped farmhouse, visitors will get to see how an water wheel grinding mill functions and a sample of a toilet shelter used in the past.

A water wheel grinding mill.

Oshira-sama. A secret passageway from magariya leads to a shrine named Oshirado 御蚕神堂. Here, Oshira-sama is being enshrined and there is a legend to its origin (the story can also found in the book titled Tono Monogatari 遠野物語, otherwise known as "The Legends of Tono"). Once upon a time, there was this poor farmer who had a beautiful daughter and a horse. The daughter loved the horse and eventually they become husband and wife. The farmer was furious when he found about his daughter's relationship with the horse. He proceeded to kill the horse by hanging it from a mulberry tree. The daughter was filled with grief and cried while holding onto the head of the horse. The farmer was further enraged and chopped the head of the horse with an axe from behind. His daughter clinging on the horse's head, both flew into the sky and became deities named Oshira-sama. This explains why there are numerous mulberry sticks with the head of either a horse or woman craved on one end, found in the shrine. Oshira-sama is also worshipped as the god of agriculture, horses and silk production. Visitors can write their wishes on colored cloths and insert them into any of the mulberry sticks in Oshirado.







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Densyoen 伝承園
〒028-0555 岩手県遠野市土淵町土淵6地割5番地1
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs (last entry at 1630 hrs)
Admission fee = 320 yen
http://www.densyoen.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By bus and walk.
- Board Iwate Ken Kotsu Bus Tsuchibuchi line 岩手県交通 土淵線 heading for Densyoen 伝承園/ Nishiuchi 西 / Ontoku 恩徳, alight at Densyoen-mae 伝承園前.
http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/pdf/timetable/21_hanamaki/21250_toono-jikoku.pdf

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Kappabuchi カッパ淵

Visited 14.05.2016 (Sat)

Fishing for Kappa using cucumber as a bait.

Believe it or not. Originated from Japanese folklore, Kappa 河童 is a water ghost/demon that lives in the waters. I have seen countless representations of Kappa in different media and it is at two extremities, either very adorable / cute looking or would send a chill down your spine. In the past, parents would mention Kappa to scare their children not to play in the waters (to avoid being pulled down by them). It was said (or rumored) that Kappa are thriving in a stream, named Kappabuchi, located in the outskirts of Tono city in Iwate Prefecture. Frankly speaking, I was dumbfounded by this saying because I have always thought that Kappa is a fictional character. However, the way Kappabuchi is being promoted here did make me have second thoughts about it; maybe there could be some truth in the story after all. Decided to make my way to Kappabuchi to see it for myself and authenticate the statement. In the end, did I have the honour to meet a Kappa in person? 

Catching Kappa. Kappabuchi is about 5 minutes walk from Densyoen 伝承園, another prominent attraction in Tono city which showcases the lifestyle of farming communities in the past. The stream runs through the compound of Jokenji 常堅寺, a temple founded in 1490 and it is said that the Kappa who saved the temple from a fire was transformed into a pair of komainu 狛犬 to safeguard the temple since then. It did get a bit daunting (was just scaring myself) as I approached my final destination; especially when I had no clue how this mysterious stream looked like in reality. To admit, I was slightly disappointed as I did not find the stream particularly magnificent or scenic - murky flowing waters with wild vegetation on its banks. One thing that puzzled me was this fishing rod with a cucumber tied to its end anchored on the bank; apparently used as a bait to catch something from Kappabuchi. Found out later that there is an activity which visitors can engage in at Kappabuchi and that is to "fish" for Kappa "thriving" in the stream. Cucumber was used as the bait because it is said that this was Kappa's favourite food (and that was how the name of cucumber rice roll, Kappa maki, came about as well). Though it sounded absurd to me, curiosity got the better of me as I kept my eyes glued on the cucumber for quite some time, thinking that a Kappa might get caught eventually. Of course, my wish was not fulfilled in the end... 

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Kappabuchi カッパ淵
https://tonojikan.jp/kanko/kappabuchi.php

How to get there?

(1) By bus and walk.

- Board Iwate Ken Kotsu Bus Tsuchibuchi line 岩手県交通 土淵線 heading for Densyoen 伝承園/ Nishiuchi 西 / Ontoku 恩徳, alight at Densyoen-mae 伝承園前. Approx 5 minutes walk from here.

- Or board Iwate Ken Kotsu Bus Tsukimoushi line 岩手県交通 附馬牛線, heading for Saka no shita 坂の下, alight at Ashiaraigawa 足洗川. Approx 5 minutes walk from here.
Bus schedule: http://www.iwatekenkotsu.co.jp/pdf/timetable/21_hanamaki/21250_toono-jikoku.pdf