Saturday, February 11, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Kurashiki Bikan Chiku 倉敷美観地区, Kurashiki River Boat Ride くらしき川舟流し

Visited 17.04.2015 (Fri)


Nostalgia. Kurashiki Bikan Chiku or Historical Quarter 倉敷美観地区 is a national historical preservation district and a sense of nostalgia hits you instantaneously upon stepping foot into this well preserved town. During the Edo Period (300 years ago), this area flourished as a merchant's quarter where goods/commodities trading took place. The town is made up a narrow canal with distinct white walls warehouses and merchants' houses lined up on both sides. Though the bustling scene of river boats crowding on the canal, merchants engaging in their trade and workers transferring goods from one place to another is no longer in existence, the restored shop houses and warehouses are now occupied by ryokans, shops, cafes, restaurants, bank and tourist information center, and continue to play an essential role to showcase how life has been in the past for many future generations to come. Spent an afternoon here; strolling along the sides of the waterway, stopped by the specialty shops housed in the charming refurbished houses every now and then, and eventually joined a river boat tour to wrap up my fruitful expedition of the historical quarter.

Kurashiki River.

One distinct feature of the buildings here in Kurashiki is the white coloured walls. Bottom right: Beautiful stained glass windows of Chugoku Bank.

Top right: Ohara Museum of Art; Bottom right: The wooden, western style building was originally Kurashiki Town Hall. Now it has been converted into a tourist information center. 
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Highlights

(1) Kurashiki River Boat Tour くらしき川舟流し
Operating hrs: 0930 - 1700 hrs, one river boat setting off every 30 minutes.
Boat fee = 500 yen
Disembarkation / embarkation point: Nakabashi 中橋, near Kurashiki-kan 倉敷館
https://www.kurashiki-tabi.jp/see/3598/




One of the best way to walk down the memory lane in Kurashiki is to hop onto a leisure boat tour of Kurashiki River, which was once packed with incoming and outgoing boats ferrying goods in the olden days. The boat transverses between Takasagobashi 高砂橋 and Imabashi 今橋, and the entire tour takes approx 20 minutes. The last time when I embarked on a similar river boat ride was the river punting along the canal of Yanagawa city in Fukuoka Prefecture. Kurashiki's version is less than half of the distance covered in Yanagawa, and the boat only goes beneath one bridge (Nakabashi) during the journey. As the boat gradually moved through the calm waters, passengers can admire the white walls houses neatly lined up on the sides of the canal, imagining how lively and busy the town had been in the past.

(2) Kurashiki Ivy Square 倉敷アイビースクエア
https://www.ivysquare.co.jp/




One instagram worthy spot not to be missed is hidden within this compound. Do keep a look out for the picturesque, ivy covered red brick walls in this former cotton mill, which has been converted into a multi purpose public space comprising of hotel, restaurants and souvenir shops. During autumn, the creepers transform into various shades of red, further elevating its allure and attractiveness.



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Kurashiki Bikan Chiku / Bikan Historical Quarter 倉敷美観地区



How to get there? 

(1) By foot. It takes approx 15 minutes walk from Kurashiki JR Station.

Commemorative stamp: 


Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Kurashiki JR Station 倉敷駅


Kurashiki JR Station, on Sanyo main line served by both local and limited express trains. From Okayama, it takes about 18 mins to travel by local train to Kurashiki, which is most well known for its Bikan Historical Quarter (倉敷美観地区).

Top right: South Exit; Bottom right: North Exit.
Do take note that Shin Kurashiki and Kurashiki are two different train stations. Shin Kurashiki JR Station, which was formerly called Tamashima, is served by both Sanyo Shinkansen and Sanyo main line, and is two stops away from Kurashiki JR Station on Sanyo main line. Alight at Shin Kurashiki JR Station for places of interest in Tamashima area such as Entsuji Temple (円通寺) and Nakagai-cho (仲買町). Visitors making their way to Bikan Historical Quarter should alight at Kurashiki JR Station.

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What's nearby?


(1) Ario Shopping Mall and Mitsui Outlet Park Kurashiki, about 1 - 3 mins walk from the North Exit of train station. 
Decided to see what the West Exit has to offer after returning to the train station since it was still early. There are two shopping malls; Ario is connected to Kurashiki Station by an overhead pedestrian bridge and houses a good variety of tenants such as ABC Mart, Beams, LOFT, Tower Records, etc. 
I was once a fan of factory outlet  because of the occasional attractive bargains for off-season items. On my maiden trip to Japan in 2011, I went to both Gotemba Premium Outlets and Mitsui Outlet Park Makuhari and I was extremely exhausted by my ambitious shopping itinerary (and I made a mental note not to do it again). Dropped by Mitsui Outlet Park Kurashiki since it was just in the vicinity. Similar concept like other conventional outlet parks where familiar names such as Gap, Beams, Nike, Adidas. Puma, etc are found here. However, Kurashiki's version lacks luxury brands tenants (like Coach, Agnes b, Burberry, Kate Spade, etc) which I have come across and may make here a less attractive place for shoppers to visit.
- Ario Kurashiki アリオ倉敷: http://www.ario-kurashiki.jp/web/index.html
- Mitsui Outlet Park Kurashiki 三井アウトレットパーク 倉敷: http://www.31op.com/kurashiki/english/




(2) Kurashiki Ekimae Tourist Information Office 倉敷駅前観光案内所
The tourist information office is located on the second floor of Kurashiki City Plaza West Building (倉敷市役所), which come into sight on the right upon exit from the South Exit.



(3) Sun Station Terrace Kurashiki さんすて倉敷, a small scale shopping mall housed within the train station.
http://kurashikieki-sc.jp/

Entrance to Bikan Historical Quarter.
(4) Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter 倉敷美観地区, about 10 mins walk from the South Exit of train station.

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Kabakuro Kitanagase Branch かばくろ北長瀬店

Visited 16.04.2015 (Thu)


Kabayaki pork? Apart from demi glacé sauce tonkatsu don and fruit parfait, there was another food on my list of items to try when I was in Okayama. Japanese grilled eel or unagi no kabayaki (うなぎの蒲焼き) is a dish quite commonly seen on the menu of restaurants offering Japanese cuisine. What I love most about this dish is how the sweet soy sauce based sauce, which the eel is repeatedly being
dipped in, makes the eel so crispy after grilling over charcoal fire; in addition, eating my rice with this sauce never fails to whet my appetite. How about employing the same method, using the same condiment with other kinds of protein? I believe this was what struck Kabakuro to try it on pork and after numerous trail and error, fine tweaking of the recipe, they finally created their very own grilled pork using kabayaki sauce named Butakaba (ぶたかば). Its popularity among the local people eventually uplift this dish to become a B-grade gourmet food in Okayama!


Still prefers kabayaki eel. Though Kabakuro has a branch near the train station, I decided to patronise the branch in Kitanagase instead; to take this opportunity to explore another part of Okayama city as well (we only managed to find a Uniqlo Nakasendou branch along the way). From Kitanagase JR Station, it took us quite a while before we eventually arrived at this stand alone restaurant, just before the dinner hour. Diners can choose either one or two cuts of meat which is served over rice. We ordered the normal grilled pork don ぶたかば重 (690 yen) and another one accompanied with chopped green onions and soft boiled egg ネギ温玉ぶたかば重 (900 yen). The appearance of the dish was already very appealing upon served. Meat was dipped into sweet kabakayi sauce and grilled over charcoal fire. This process was repeated several times till a crisp texture is achieved while ensuring the meat is not overcooked and meat juices are retained. I concluded that the result was not unexpected as the sauce should go well with pork and rice. And if I have to choose between kabayaki pork and eel, I will still prefer the latter. In my opinion, if pork and kabayaki sauce complement one another, the combination of eel and kabayaki sauce is considered seamless. Nevertheless, do try it out for yourself!


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Kabakuro Kitanagase Branch かばくろ北長瀬店
岡山県岡山市北区今1丁目9-27
Opening hrs: 1100 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 2100 hrs; Last order: 2050 hrs
http://www.kabakuro.com/index.html

How to get there?

(1) By train.
From Okayama JR Station, take the local train via Sanyo main line and alight one stop later at Kitanagase JR Station (北長瀬駅). It takes about 15 - 20 minutes by foot from Kitanagase JR Station.



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Other branches:

Kabakuro Aeon Mall Okayama Branch かばくろイオンモール岡山店
Located on the 4th floor of Aeon Mall Okayama. This shopping mall is accessible via underpasses all the way from Okayama JR Station.
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs; Last order: 2030 hrs

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Cafe Antenna アンテナ

Visited 16.04.2015 (Thu)


Fruit Parfait Street. Okayama is known as Harenokuni (晴れの国) or sunny country because it experiences more sunny days than any other parts of Japan. And because of its favourable, temperate weather condition, it is an excellent place for wide varieties of fruits to breed in and Okayama is famously known for their high quality (and quantity of) white peaches and muscat grapes in Japan. Having been to Okayama twice (in 2015 and most recently end 2017), I have yet to coincide my visit with the harvesting season of white peaches which falls between mid July to mid Aug; something I will love to do so in future! As different fruits can be enjoyed in Okayama all year round, a campaign named "Fruit Parfait Street" (fruit parfait no machi フルーツパフェの街) was introduced in 2009 to promote local produce. To date, there are 37 cafes/restaurants dotted within Okayama city, participating in this popular campaign. Apart from introducing various types of parfait using seasonal fruits, each cafe/restaurant creates its very own irresistible signature to appeal sweets lovers and stand out from the rest. I have to say, after this visit to Cafe Antenna, fruit parfait has become a food item that I will think of instantaneously when anyone asked me about Okayama.

A quick summary of Okayama fruits season:
- White peaches: Mid July to mid August
- New pione grapes (ニューピオーネ): Early April to late October
- Ichijuku (イチジク) or figs: Mid September to mid November
- Momotaro grapes (桃太郎ぶどう): Early July to late November
- Strawberries: Early November to late May

List of cafes/restaurants participating in "Fruit Parfait Street" campaign: http://www.okayama-cci.or.jp/activation/fruitparfait.html


Exclusive parfait. Located along Korakuen-dori (後楽園通り) and within walking distance from Korakuen and Okayama Castle, Antenna is a retro cafe housed in a refurbished shophouse built during Taisho era. When we reached the cafe in the late afternoon after visiting Korakuen, the cafe was already packed with patrons, enjoying parfaits for afternoon tea. Despite being an old building, the ambience was pleasantly cosy; the high ceiling of the cafe makes it spacious as well. Fortunately, we managed to find a side bench table which could occupy the three of us. Upon seated, we flipped through the photobook menu which came with pictures of their delectable parfaits. We were definitely spoilt for choice! Eventually decided to order their signature creation parfait and a traditional dessert to share.

- Izushi Taisho Roman Parfait いづし大正浪漫パフェ (1,080 yen): Exclusive to Cafe Antenna, this is a beautifully decorated parfait which is so Instagram picture worthy. The entire body of the tall glass is filled with layers of cream and assortment of fresh fruits, topped up with a scope of ice cream and strawberries, and wedged with a slice of Okayama melon at its edge. This parfait has such precise balance of sweetness and sourness which makes every mouthful so satisfying. One point worth mentioning is the owner liaises directly with fruit farmers to ensure the freshest ingredients are utilised in their creations.

- Wafu macha ice 和風抹茶アイス: A traditional interpretation of local dessert, made up of a sccop of macha flavoured gelato, azuki paste, shiratama dango (白玉団子), handmade hiromitsu yuzu agar and cut fruits.

Izushi Taisho Roman Parfait 

Wafu macha ice
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Cafe Antenna アンテナ
岡山市北区出石町1-8-23
Opening hrs: 1100 - 1900 hrs, closed on Tuesdays
https://okayama-kanko.net/sightseeing/gourmet.php?id=24

How to get there? 

(1) By tram. From Okayama Ekimae Station, board Okayama Electric Tramway Higashiyama line (東山線) and alight at Okaden Jo-shita Station (岡電城下駅). It takes 10 minutes by foot from the tram station.

Monday, February 6, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Korakuen 後楽園

Visited 16.04.2015 (Thu)

View of Okayama Castle's Tenshukaku from Sawa no ike.
Three Great Gardens of Japan. After "conquering" Okayama Castle, we crossed Tsukimi Bridge 月見橋 to the other side of Asahigawa where Korakuen is situated. Korakuen, alongside Kenrokuen 兼六園 in Kanazawa Prefecture and Kairakuen 偕楽園 in Ibaraki Prefecture, is one of the three Great Gardens of Japan (日本三名園). To date (Nov 2017), I have visited all three and each has its very own attractive elements, so it is difficult to select which garden is the best out of the three. From the Tenshukaku (castle keep) of Okayama Castle, I already had a prelude of this fine landscaped garden from an elevation and was looking forward to visit it. Entered the garden via the South Gate (which is the closest to Tsukimi Bridge) and embarked on an excursion in this 133,000 m2 wide garden.


Background / Highlights:

- Korakuen completed construction in 1700; about a century after the existence of Okayama Castle. In the past, the garden was used as place to entertain important guests and a retreat for the feudal lord. In 1884, the ownership was transferred to Okayama Prefecture and the garden became a public park for everyone to enjoy. In fact, the original name of this garden was Ko-en 後園 or "the garden at the back" as it was built behind Okayama Castle. However, it was later changed to Korakuen because the garden was built in the spirit of the famous proverb (kotozawa), Senyu Koraku 先憂後楽, equivalent to 先苦后甜 in Chinese which means no sweet without sweat. The name serves as a good reminder to all on this important virtue in life.


- Severe damages were inflicted on Korakuen during the floods of 1934 and during WWII bombing in 1945. Fortunately, the garden was successfully restored based on paintings and diagrams drawn during the Edo Period. Korakuen was designated as a Special Scenic Location under the Cultural Properties Protection Law in 1952 and continues to be well taken care of to ensure future generations can learn about the rich heritage that the country possessed.

View from Yushizan 1/3.

View from Yuishinzan 2/3.

View from Yuishinzan 3/3.
- The two best viewing spots that should not be missed in Korakuen are:

(1) Yuishinzan 唯心山. This is a man-made hill which offers a spectacular view of the entire garden. From here, vast area carpeted with grass, various water features, arched bridges and traditional Japanese style huts and houses all formed a picturesque scenery of Korakuen which is a beauty to behold.

(2) Sawa no ike 沢の池. This is the largest pond in the garden with three smaller islands in it. Standing at the north side of Sawa no ike and facing southwards, you will be able to command a panoramic view of the garden with Okayama Castle in the background. Unfortunately, I did not bring along a good camera during my trip to capture a better picture of the entire scenery, so the photos featured here may not be a good representation of my description.


Side note: Found a shop which sold sakura flavoured soft serve here and bought one to try. However, the soft serve did not have the conventional swirling pattern and tasted average, lacking the rich and creamy texture that I would expect from this famous sweet in Japan. Later I found out that there are actually two different types of soft serve / ice cream machines in Japan. Usually it is dispensed from a machine where the soft serve liquid mixture is poured into it and continuously frozen and whipped (similar to the one we see in fastfood outlets such as MacDonalds). There is another type in which a ready made ice cream tub is inserted into the machine and the contents is forced out through a hole at the bottom of the tub. The one I had was made from the latter and I find the consistency of the soft serve generated to be poorer. With this experience, whenever I approach any soft serve stalls, I will first peek into their stall to observe the type of soft serve machine utilised before placing my order to avoid another disappointment.

Poorly executed sakura flavoured soft serve.
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Korakuen 後楽園
〒703-8257 岡山市北区後楽園1-5
Operating hours:
- 20 Mar to 30 Sep: 0730 - 1800 hrs; last entry at 1745 hrs.
- 1 Oct to 19 Mar: 0800 - 1700 hrs; last entry at 1645 hrs
Entrance fee = 400 yen; Combined ticket with Okayama Castle = 560 yen
http://www.okayama-korakuen.jp/



How to get there?

(1) By Okayama Electric Tramway 岡山電気軌道
From Okayama Ekimae Station (岡山駅前), board the electric tram on Higashiyama line (東山線) and alight at Jo-shita station (城下駅). From here, it takes another 7 mins to walk to Korakuen.
http://www.okayama-kido.co.jp/tramway/rosen.html

(2) By Okaden Bus 岡電バス
From Okayama JR Station East Exit Bus Terminal Platform 1, board Okaden Bus 岡電バス non-stop bus bound for Korakuen or Bus 18 bound for Fujiwara danchi 藤原団地 and alight at Korakuen-mae 後楽園前.
Non stop bus schedule: http://www.okayama-kido.co.jp/bus/jikoku/pdf180308/18_kourakuen_yumeji_1803.pdf
Bus 18 schedule: http://www.okayama-kido.co.jp/bus/jikoku/pdf171001/15_18_fujiwada.pdf

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Video: An excellent promotional video on Korakuen produced by Japan Tourism Agency.


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Commemorative stamp:


Sunday, February 5, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Okayama Castle 岡山城

Visited 16.04.2015 (Thu)
Number of castles visited to date: 5
Top 100 castles in Japan: #70


Crow castle. Today's plan was to pay tribute to two most iconic landmarks of Okayama city - Okayama Castle 岡山城 and Korakuen 後楽園. From Jo-shita Electric Tramway Station, we followed the signage and walked along the river bank of Asahigawa 旭川 before spotting a shiny, black Tenshukaku 天守閣 standing elegantly from afar. Because of the black appearance of the Tenshukaku (otherwise known as the castle keep), Okayama Castle was given the nickname of "Crow Castle 烏城". Together with Korakuen, the whole castle and the ruins of the former castle were officially recognised as a national historic site on 30 May 1987.

Spotted the castle on the right while strolling along the river bank of Asahigawa. The bridge connects Okayama Castle to Korakuen.

Irregular pentagon base of Tenshukaku.
Background / Highlights:

- Okayama Castle completed construction in 1597 after eight years of workmanship.

- The original Tenshukaku was burnt down on 29 June 1945 by an air raid during WWII. The current one was reconstructed in 1966 using reinforced concrete and looked almost the same as its original form. Another unique feature of Tenshukaku is its base is actually an irregular pentagon and it is especially obvious if you see the shape of the stone walls from behind.


- The only building in the central area which escaped the air raid was Tsukimi yagura 月見櫓, the turret for moon watching, located on the northwest corner of the castle, so do keep a lookout for this longest surviving structure since 1620. Sadly, I only realised it when writing this blog entry and could not find any associated photos of Tsukimi yagura in my photo collection.


-  Akazu no mon 不明の門 (Unopened Gate) is another reconstructed structure which visitors will have to pass through to get from Omotesho-in (表書院) to Hondan (本段), the highest terrain in the castle compound and where Tenshukaku is located in.

Beautiful gold painted Shachi.

Korakuen and Asahigawa seen from the highest level of Tenshukaku.
- This is the first Tenshukaku I came across which is in built with a lift. The Tenshukaku is about six storey tall and the lift serves the first four storey. In the modern world, the top level of a castle keep has transformed to an observatory, allowing visitors to capture an excellent and unobstructed view of its surrounding. If you look out towards North, Korakuen and Asahigawa can be seen clearly from here. When peering out from the windows at the fifth storey, admire the gold painted Shachi (鯱), an ornament depicting a mystical animal which has the head of a tiger and body of a carp, attached onto the roofs. It is believed that adorning the roofs of castles and temples with Shachi will protect the buildings from fire. This was the first time I come across a gold painted Shachi and it stood out more brilliantly than usual, on the roof of the black coloured castle.


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Okayama Castle 岡山城
〒700-0823 岡山県岡山市北区丸の内2-3-1
Opening hours: 0900 - 1730 hrs (Last entry at 1700 hrs)
Entrance fee = 300 yen; Combined ticket with Korakuen = 560 yen
http://www.okayama-kanko.net/ujo/sp/



How to get there? 

(1) By Okayama Electric Tramway 岡山電気軌道
From Okayama Ekimae Station (岡山駅前), board the electric tram on Higashiyama line (東山線) and alight at Jo-shita station (城下駅). From here, it takes another 7 mins to walk to Okayama Castle.
http://www.okayama-kido.co.jp/tramway/rosen.html

(2) By Okaden Bus 岡電バス
From Okayama JR Station East Exit Bus Terminal Platform 9, board Okaden Bus 岡電バス for Okaden Takaya 岡電高屋 and alight at Kencho mae 県庁前. From here, it takes another 5 mins to walk to Okayama Castle.
Bus schedule: http://www.okayama-kido.co.jp/bus/jikoku/pdf170616/8_oktakaya.pdf

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Commemorative stamps: