Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Starbucks Hirosaki Koen-mae スターバックス 弘前公園前店

Visited 17.10.2015 (Sat)



Attraction. In Japan, Starbucks is more than a coffee house. In fact, there is a growing number of Starbucks branches which are visited by people as places of interest of a particular city/area in Japan. My first encounter of an asethetically mind blowing Starbucks was one located in the vicinity of Dazaifu Temangu 太宰府天満宮 in Fukuoka Prefecture, designed by renowned Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma 隈研吾. This time round, I visited this branch located near Hirosaki Park 弘前公園 which is one with a historical background. Opened in 2015, the retro looking building which Starbucks is housed in is called Kyudaihachi Shidancho Kansha 旧第八師団長官舎, formerly a residence of a division commander constructed in 1917 (Taisho 6), dismantled and reconstructed at its current location in 1959 (Showa 59). This is currently one of the few Starbucks branches which is housed in a tangible cultural property; Starbucks Kobe Kitanoijin kan スターバックス 神戸北野異人館 being one of them as well. Located strategically near the famous cherry blossom viewing spot (Hirosaki Koen), this particular branch has become increasingly popular with both locals and tourists, elevating it into an important place of interest in Hirosaki city.

Appealing. On our last day in Tohoku region, I decided to wake up earlier than usual and set off to visit several historical buildings (such as Aomori Bank Memorial Hall 青森銀行記念館, Former Hirosaki City Library 旧弘前市立図書館, Former Togijuku Missionary Residence 旧東奥義塾外人教師館) including this Starbucks branch which showcased western influence in its architectural style due to the presence of foreign missionaries in Hirosaki city in the earlier days. Upon arriving at Starbucks, I was already attracted to its retro yet chic exterior and could not wait to enter this tiled roofed, standalone coffee house.



Soak up. Curious like a child, I explored every corner of the building. In one room furnished with leather armchairs, there is a group of photo frames hung on the wall, documenting the past of this building. I love one particular section where patrons can look out to a small backyard garden through the wooden sliding doors with glass panels, while sipping their drinks. The entire enclosure is well illuminated by natural lighting from the outside; do pay attention to the wood flooring patterns utilised in different sections as well - one of them actually resembled a floor laid with tatami mats, thus incorporating some Japanese elements into its interior design as well.





Unfortunately, I could only spend a couple of minutes here to drink my cafe latte before I had to head back to the hotel for breakfast and check out. How nice it would have been if I could enjoy my coffee and spend the rest of the morning here, to soak up the pleasant atmosphere. 

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Starbucks Hirosaki Koen-mae スターバックス 弘前公園前店
036-8207 青森県 弘前市 上白銀町1-1
Operating hours: 0700 - 2100 hrs
http://www.city.hirosaki.aomori.jp/gaiyou/bunkazai/kuni/kuni-touroku1.html
https://store.starbucks.co.jp/detail-1302/

How to get there? 

(1) By foot. About 18 mins walk from Konan Railway Chuo Hirosaki Station 弘南鉄道中央弘前駅.

(2) By Dotemachi loop bus 土手町循環バス.
Board the bus from Platform #2 outside Hirosaki JR Station Chuo Exit 弘前駅中央口 and alight at Shiyakusho-mae 市役所前. About a minute walk from the bus stop.
http://www.konanbus.com/coin.html

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - French Shokudo Chez moi フランス食堂 シェ.モア

Visited 16.10.2015 (Fri)





Go French. Experienced French cuisine at a restaurant for the very first time in Japan. As many foreign missionaries came to Hirosaki during the Meiji period, it led to construction of numerous western style buildings in this city and influenced the eating culture then. Apart from apple pies, I found out that French is a popular cuisine here as there are quite a few French restaurants to choose from in the city. Wanted to patronise a mid range restaurant and found Chez Moi シェ.モア. Established in 1987, the owner named the restaurant Chez Moi, which means home in French, because he hoped that diners can feel like that they are returning home when dining in his restaurant. In fact, the interior of the restaurant takes on a homely, country style design; tables which were laid with floral tablecloth were separated by ample distance to ensure diners could have their own private space as much as possible. What caught me by surprise was the waiter was even donned in the classic black and white type of uniform; which made me really felt like I was dinning in an atas French restaurant.

Menu. Diners can choose the course based on their budget and appetite. Lunch course ranges from 1,650 to 3,650 yen, while dinner course ranges from 2,200 to 4,200 yen (all before tax). There is an omakase course in which the chef focuses on utilising seasonal ingredients to create the dishes. Being one of top producer of apples in Aomori Prefecture, Chez moi also has a "Apple Full Course りんごフルコース" whereby the fruit is creatively incorporated into all the dishes; from soup, mains to dessert (do note that this course requires prior reservation for a minimum of two diners). F

Cooking style. All of us ordered dinner course A (was 2,000 yen previously and now 2,200 yen) which came with appetiser, soup, bread, main dish, dessert and drinks (either espresso or black tea). or the mains included in the conventional set lunch and dinner, diners can choose either seafood such as fish of the day and scallops or meat such as beef, pork, duck and venison; some requiring additional top up of money. After much contemplation, I had the poêlé cooked Aomori produced kurobuta pork loin with honey and vanilla beans (青森産黒豚ロース肉ポワレ蜂蜜とバニラビーンズ風味), while my parents had the breaded Aomori produced kurobuta pork loin with mushroom cream sauce (青森産黒豚ロース肉のパン粉焼き茸のクリームソース), and Hakkoda produced barbarie duck loin poêlé cooked and served with apple (八甲田産バルバリー鴨ロース肉ポワレりんご添え). I am definitely not a connoisseur of French cuisine; had to google what poêlé actually meant. Found out that it is a French technique of cooking which means pot roasting of food with butter.







While waiting for our dinner to be served, I spotted a magazine article placed on a side table and it was a write up about Chez moi. Read that the chef was determined to create French cuisine using the freshest ingredients sourced locally and even started cultivating his own vegetables to realise the farm-to-table concept in his restaurant - kudos to him! Our dinner course started off with petit hors d'oeuvre (small appertiser) - a slice of bread with savory spread served with dry cured ham and olive, creamy potato soup served with croutons, and slices of bread to go with the soup.

Aomori produced kurobuta pork loin with honey and vanilla beans

Hakkoda produced barbarie duck loin poêlé cooked and served with apple

Breaded Aomori produced kurobuta pork loin with mushroom cream sauce

For my main (Aomori produced kurobuta pork loin with honey and vanilla beans), visually it looked very appealing and I could not wait to slice my knife through the meat right away. The pork loin was cooked perfectly - right texture and doneness, nice searing and caramelisation on the meat and right amount of seasoning. All of us were very satisfied with our mains - the duck loin which my mother had was also cooked beautifully; meat slightly pink on the inside and crispy skin with fat layer still intact on the outside. The dinner ended with a delectable french apple cake topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and black tea served in delicate porcelain ware. Spent some time here reminiscing our trip so far (since it was our last night in Japan) while sipping our drinks and left the restaurant with a very satisfied palate. 

It was due this extraordinary experience in Chez moi that I started to keep a look out for western fare whenever I am in Japan; and so far I have not been disappointed by their yoshoku (western food). 

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French Shokudo Chez moi フランス食堂 シェ.モア
〒036-8001 青森県弘前市代官町53-2
Operating hours: 1100 - 1400 hrs, 1700 - 2100 hrs; Closed on Monday’s
http://chezmoihirosaki.com/

How to get there?
7 minutes walk from Hirosaki JR Station Chuo Exit 弘前駅中央口.

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Hirosaki Park 弘前公園, Hirosaki Castle 弘前城

Visited 16.10.2015 (Fri)
No. of castles visited to date: 10

Top 100 castles in Japan: #4

Icon. Hirosaki Castle is undoubtedly the symbol of Hirosaki city. Various festivals are held around the castle and its compound throughout the year such as Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival 弘前さくらまつり between late April and early May, Hirosaki Castle Snow Castle Lantern Festival 弘前城雪燈籠まつり in early February and we chanced upon the Hirosaki Castle Chrysanthemum and Fall Foliage Festival 弘前城菊と紅葉まつり during this trip (held from mid Oct to early Nov). During this annual autumn festival, the botanical garden in Hirosaki Park is decorated with various kinds of chrysanthemum plants and life sized dolls depicting historical figures dressed with flowers are put up for display in the park.

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Highlights:

On Day 8, we boarded Resort Shirakami リゾートしらかみ (a limited express sightseeing train which runs along Gono line) from Aomori 青森駅 to Hirosaki 弘前駅 via Ou main line 奥羽本線, safe kept our luggage at the hotel upon arrival and immediately set off for Hirosaki Castle by bus. Alighted at Shiyakusho-mae 市役所前 and entered Hirosaki Park via Otemon Gate 追手門.







History. Hirosaki Castle completed construction in 1611 and was home to Tsugaru clan during the Edo period. The castle had a five storey tenshukaku 天守閣 (keep tower) originally, but it was struck by lightning and burnt down in 1627. The current, iconic three storey tenshukaku was built during the reconstruction of the corner turrets in 1811. The castle was later opened to public as Hirosaki Park in 1895 and was designated as a historical site in 1952. Today, the park is extremely popular with visitors during spring as there are more than 2,600 cherry blossom trees of different varieties here and these trees were actually donated by the locals to the park in the early 20th century. Imagine the beautiful sight of sakura flower petals covering the moat giving rise to a pink waterway!

Landmarks. Tenshukaku is located in Honmaru 本丸 which is surrounded by an inner moat and connected to Ninomaru 二の丸, Nishi no kuruwa 西の廓, Kita no kuruwa 北の廓, Sannomura 三の丸 and Yonnomura 四の丸 via bridges. Out of all the various sections of the park, only Honmaru,  Kita no kuruwa and the botanical garden require admission fee. The castle itself has a total of five gates - North, Inner South, Inner East, Otemon and East Gate and three turrets/yagura in Ninomaru - Ushitora 丑寅櫓, Tatsumi 辰巳櫓 and Hitsujisaru 未申櫓. All these historical structures were painstakingly preserved in its original state and have been designated as important cultural property by the government. In fact, one of the best photo taking spot (before the tenshukaku shifted its location temporarily due to renovation works since 2015) to capture the tenshukaku, the stone wall, the moat and vermilion bridge (Gejo-bashi 下乗橋) in the same picture frame is from Ninomaru. The castle compound is pretty spacious and easy to navigate around. And because it was the autumn season when we visited the park, the vegetation in the park were beautifully donned in various shades of red. Apart from that, the majestic Mount Iwaki 岩木山, the tallest peak in Aomori Prefecture and affectionately referred to as Tsugaru-fuji 津軽富士 by the locals here, can be seen clearly from afar in the northwest direction. Managed to capture an alluring sunset view in the backdrop of Mount Iwaki while we were here too. 

Restoration. Previously. a bulge was discovered on the stone wall of Honmaru. Due to this, the stone wall may potentially collapse if an earthquake is to occur. Therefore, repair works had to be carried out to restore the integrity of the stone wall. As the three-storey tenshukaku sits at the edge of the stone wall and in order to facilitate stone wall repair, the building was forced to be moved 70 m away from its original location. When we were at Hirosaki Park, the shifting of tenshukaku to the center of Honmaru was just on the verge of completion. It is expected that the entire repair work will take about 10 years and tenshukaku is planned to return to its original location in 2021. Hopefully repair works will complete as per plan and we will get to witness the picturesque scenery of tenshukaku and its surroundings soon.



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Hirosaki Castle 弘前城

Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs (1 Apr - 23 Nov); Tenshukaku is closed from 24 Nov to 31 Mar.
Admission fee to Honmaru and Kita no kuruwa between 1 Apr to 23 Nov = 310 yen
Free admission to Honmaru and Kita no kuruwa between 24 Nov to 31 Mar

- Hirosaki Castle Botanical Garden 弘前城植物園
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs (Mid Apr - 23 Nov)
Admission fee = 310 yen

- Combined ticket for Honmaru, Kita no kuruwa and Hirosaki Castle Botanical Garden = 510 yen
https://www.hirosakipark.jp/

How to get there?

By Dotemachi loop bus 土手町循環バス.

Board the bus from Platform #2 outside Hirosaki JR Station Chuo Exit 弘前駅中央口 and alight at Shiyakusho-mae 市役所前.
http://www.konanbus.com/coin.html

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Commemorative stamps:

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Toyoko Inn Hirosaki Ekimae 東横イン弘前駅前

Stayed 15.10.2015 (1 night)

- Single room = 5,184 yen

- Twin room = 7,884 yen

Hirosaki JR Station on the right. 

Overall, another pleasant experience with Toyoko Inn. Toyoko Inn Hirosaki Ekimae is the nearest budget hotel to the train station, in fact literally a stone throw away. Other accommodation options such as Route Inn is located opposite while the higher end Hotel Naqua City is found on the other side of the train station. A sense of familiarity to Toyoko Inn has gradually grown over the last few trips to Japan. Helpful front desk service, similar room layout equipped with basic necessities - these are just some of common features that I have already taken granted for whenever I stay in Toyoko Inn hotels. Enjoyed the simple fare they had to offer for breakfast as I was delighted to see my favourite onigiri available on the menu for the day. Due to its strategic location and affordable price, I will highly recommend this hotel for travellers who intend to stay overnight in Hirosaki city.

What's nearby?

(1) Hirosaki JR Station and Appliese (アプリース), a small scale shopping mall connected seamlessly to the train station. If you decide to head out for breakfast in the morning, there are several cafes to choose from - Mister Donut, Doutor and Vie De France, and all open for business at 0700 hrs. There is also a 100 yen shop located on Level 3 of Appliese. 

Website: http://www.jre-abc.com/wp/appliese/index/

(2) Ito Yotocho (イトーヨーカドー), a departmental store about 5 minutes walk away. A 100 yen shop (Can Do) is located on the fifth floor. 

Website: http://blog.itoyokado.co.jp/shop/063/index.html

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Toyoko Inn Hirosaki Ekimae 東横イン弘前駅前

〒036-8002  青森県弘前市駅前1-1-1

http://www.toyoko-inn.com/hotel/00164/

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Hirosaki JR Station 弘前駅, Whole Hirosaki Apple Pie Coupon まるごとひろさきアップルパイクーポン

Hirosaki JR Station, on Ou main line (奥羽本線).

The Ou main line is close to 500 km long and passes through four prefectures in Tohoku region - from Fukushima, Yamagata, Akita to Aomori. Adjacent to the JR Station is Konan Railway, which operates Konan line (弘南線) connecting Hirosaki to Kuroishi (黒石).
Do note that Chuo Hirosaki station (中央弘前駅), which is also operated by Konan Railway, is located much further away from this JR Station but closer to Hirosaki Castle. The presence of Chuo Hirosaki station provides an alternative route that can be considered to visit Owani Onsen (大鰐温泉).
- From Chuo Hirosaki station via Owani line to the terminus station, Owani station.
- From Hirosaki JR Station via Ou main line to Owani Onsen JR Station, which is adjacent to Owani station.

Some limited express and special themed trains that serve Hirosaki JR Station:

(1) Limited Express Tsugaru, commutes between Aomori and Akita via Ou main line.
(2) Resort Shirakami (リゾートしらかみ), commutes between Aomori and Akita via Gono line and Ou main line.

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What's nearby?

(1) Tourist Information Center, located in front of Chuo exit of train station. For those planning to visit the main attractions in Hirosaki, I will highly recommend getting this "Whole Hirosaki Apple Pie Coupon" which can be purchased from here.

Whole Hirosaki Apple Pie Coupon (まるごとひろさきアップルパイクーポン), is a set of seven coupons equivalent to 700 yen (used to exchange for apple pies in participating cafes/restaurants), entrance tickets to attractions such as Tsugaru-han Nebuta Village, Hirosaki Castle, Botanical Garden and Fujita Memorial Garden, 5% discount vouchers for souvenirs purchased at participating shops and a 300 yen equivalent souvenir (choose either postcards or guidebook). Each coupon is reasonably priced at 1,500 yen and can be used over a period of 30 days. During my visit in Oct 2015, the same apple pie coupon was sold at a discounted price of 1,000 yen, in conjunction with the annual autumn festival, therefore making this coupon even more worthwhile! Received two sets of postcards which showcased the beauty of Hirosaki Castle during the cherry blossom season and many unique European style buildings which were constructed close to a century ago - a perfect souvenir especially when I am a postcard lover. 

Whole Hirosaki Apple Pie Coupon (in Japanese): http://www.hirosaki-kanko.or.jp/web/edit.html?id=applepiecoupon

Top left: Both apple pie and juice should not be missed out from any visit to Aomori Prefecture; Bottom right: Eau Clair's version of apple pie. 

(2) Hotels. There are a couple of accommodation options near the train station - business budget hotel chains such as Toyoko Inn and Route Inn, and the higher end Hotel Naqua City. For my trip, I spent the night in Toyoko Inn, which is located a stone throw away from the train station.

A city of apple pies! Eau clair, located in Hotel Naqua City, is one of the many cafes/restaurants that serve apple pies in Hirosaki - a sweet delicacy that this city is well known for because it is the top producer for apples in Japan. Took advantage of the 100 yen coupons which were part of Whole Hirosaki Apple Pie Coupon, to enjoy a delicious piece of apple pastry and a cup of coffee here. What impressed me most is this Apple Pie Guide Map created by the tourism board here. The handy brochure contains a detailed write up on the taste and numerous tantalising pictures of the various kinds of apple pies available in this apple kingdom. There are close to 50 shops here serving their very own apple pie creation and will truly make one spoilt for choice. Only managed to eat one during my short one day stay and I told myself to try a couple more on my next visit!

Apple Pie Guide Map (in Japanese): http://www.hirosaki-kanko.or.jp/web/edit.html?id=cat03_food09   

Appliese can be accessed as soon as you step out from the gates. 

(3) Appliese (アプリース), a small scale shopping mall connected seamlessly to the train station. If you decide to head out for breakfast in the morning, there are several cafes to choose from - Mister Donut, Doutor and Vie De France, and all open for business at 0700 hrs. There is also a 100 yen shop located on Level 3 of the shopping complex.

Website: http://www.jre-abc.com/wp/appliese/index/

Bus boarding platforms in front of Hirosaki JR Station.

(4) Bus boarding platforms, located in front of Chuo exit of train station. 

- Dotemachi loop 土手町循環バス: board this bus at Platform #2 and alight at Shiyakusho mae (市役所前) to visit Hirosaki Castle Park, Otemon Square, Former Hirosaki City Library and Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence. The bus operates from 1000 to 1800 hrs, at regular 10 minutes intervals. Each trip cost 100 yen regardless of the distance travelled. If you plan to make at least five trips on buses, a one day pass, priced at 500 yen each, can be purchased instead. 

- Tamenobu line ためのぶバス: this bus service can be utilised to visit Hirosaki Apple Park, located further away from the city center. Bus also stops at Shiyakusho mae and Tsugaru-han Nebuta Village. Do note that the frequency is much lower as compared to Dotemachi loop bus, with only four round trips per day. A bus trip from Hirosaki JR Station to Hirosaki Apple Park cost 200 yen.

Konan Bus: http://www.konanbus.com/coin.html

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Commemorative stamp: 

Hirosaki City Tourist Information Center

Tohoku 2015 東北の旅 - Hakkoda Ropeway 八甲田ロープウェイ, Tamoyachidake Nature Trail 田茂萢岳自然研究路

Visited 16.10.2016 (Fri)



Sequel. Sighted Hakodate mountain from its base during the autumn trekking course organised by Oirase Keiryu Hotel 奥入瀬渓流ホテル the day before. Decided to visit Hakkoda mountain again on the following day, by riding a ropeway to the summit of Mount Tamoyachidake this time round. Hakkoda mountain refers to the mountain range spanning the north of Towada Hachimantai National Park 十和田八幡平国立公園 which comprised of more than ten peaks around the main peak named Mount Odake (1,585 m). Mount Tamayachidake area is a rich nature reserve dotted with wetlands and an ecosystem for less commonly seen alpine thriving vegetation.

Can you spot a winding road in the photo?

Colour transformation. On Day 8 morning, we boarded the JR Bus Tohoku heading for the base ropeway station (Hakkoda Ropeway) from the bus terminal in front of Aomori Station 青森駅. At the base, we were excited to see the various shades of autumn colours already decorating the vegetation on the mountain slope. Bought the round trip ticket and queued for our turn to board the ropeway. During the ascend, we witnessed the fascinating colour transformation of surrounding vegetation from orange, to red and then to brown and eventually turned back to lush green when the carriage approached the summit park station.

What a wonderful sight to behold at the summit park station!

Observatory located on the top deck of summit park station.

Breathtaking scenery. We headed to the observatory of the summit park station to admire the mountainous landscape. After being captivated by the perfect mirror image on the waters of Tsutanuma 蔦沼 a day ago, this was another breathtaking scenery that left us speechless. Being able to stand at an altitude with a commanding view of nature's work of creation was unprecedented for me. We stood at the observatory, marveling at the panoramic scenery for quite some time before we had to leave reluctantly to carry on with our trekking course. Be prepared to wear warmly to protect yourselves against the colder temperatures and chilly winds experienced here if you plan to visit the place during autumn.

Starting point for nature trail.

Standing at the observation deck overlooking Mount Akakuradake, Mount Idodake and Mount Odake.

Surrounded by nature.

Scenic lookout point for Tamoyachi Wetlands and Northern Hakkoda mountain range.

Embracing nature. The nature trail is shaped like a gourd and hence the name - Hakkoda Gourd Line 八甲田ゴードライン. The full course takes about 60 minutes to complete and there are multiple observation decks and lookout points to stop by to observe nature along the way. Due to time constraint, we could only cover half of the gourd line unfortunately. Walked carefully along the pathway and arrived at the first observation deck where three mountains of Northern Hakkoda mountain range - Mount Akakuradake 赤倉岳 (1,548 m), Mount Idodake 硫黄岳 (1,550 m) and Mount Odake, were sighted. At the halfway mark, we stopped by at the next observation deck overlooking at Tamoyachi Wetlands 田茂萢湿原 and Northern Hakkoda mountain range. The calm waters of the pond in the center was a natural mirror for the surrounding vegetation and mountain range. Overall, the route is not physically taxing and is an excellent way to uncover the hidden wetlands of Hakkoda mountains. Though we all felt tired with all the walking coming to the end of our trip, we felt it was worthwhile and the outcome was way more rewarding than we thought. 

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Hakkoda Ropeway 八甲田ロープウェイ, Tamoyachidake Nature Trail 田茂萢岳自然研究路
Operating hours: 0900 - 1620 hrs (Mar - Early Nov), 0900 - 1540 hrs (Mid Nov - Feb)
Round trip ticket = 2,000 yen
One way ticket = 1,250 yen
http://www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp/

How to get there?
By JR Bus Tohoku and walk.
From Aomori Ekimae Bus Terminal Bus Stop 11 or Shin Aomori JR Station East Exit Bus Stop 1, board JR Bus Tohoku Mizumi-go みずうみ号 heading for Hakkoda Ropeway, Oirase Keiryu and Towada-ko. Alight at Ropeway Ekimae ロープウェー駅前.
Bus fare = 1,100 yen
JR Bus Tohoku: https://www.jrbustohoku.co.jp/route/detail.php?r=45&rc=11
* Note that the bus fare is covered by nationwide JR pass and JR East rail passes.



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Commemorative stamp: