Saturday, February 25, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Peace Memorial Park 平和記念公園, Genbaku Dome 原爆ドーム

Visited 18.04.2015 (Sat)


Painful past. There are two places in Hiroshima Prefecture which are designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites - Genbaku Dome 原爆ドーム and Itsukushima Jinja 厳島神社, and we aimed to visit both of them on this debut trip to Chugoku region of Japan. I believe the very first time I heard or came to know about this place called Hiroshima was through history lessons conducted during my secondary school days. On 6 Aug 1945 8.15 a.m., the world's first atomic bomb was deployed in Hiroshima by the U.S. which became one of the catalyst that fueled the cease of WWII. The second atomic bomb was subsequently detonated in Nagasaki on 9 Aug 1945 and led to Japan's surrender. The destruction caused by this formidable nuclear weapon was catastrophic and deadly; completely wiping out almost all life forms and structures within 1.6 km away from its hypo center.



Genbaku Dome. However, there was one building which was partially spared from the blast. The former Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, built in 1915, was located just a mere 160 m away from the hypocenter of the atomic bomb withstood the massive forces unleashed by the bomb miraculously. Even though a large portion of the structural steel, including the iconic dome shaped roof remained intact, none of the inhabitants survived from this ordeal. Later renamed as Genbaku Dome or Atomic Bomb Dome (A-Bomb Dome in short), the remains of this building was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 and served as a constant reminder to mankind on the cruelty of war and nuclear weapons, and the continuous strive to attain lasting world peace. Having been to the Peace Park in Nagasaki city back in 2014 made me want to visit Hiroshima after that and I finally fulfilled this wish on this trip. While walking around Genbaku Dome and Peace Memorial Park, I read about the tragic loss of innocent lives through the signboards with a heavy heart and came to know of the unending pains and sufferings that some people, till today, still have to go through as a result of radiation poisoning.



Peace Memorial Park. Similar to the Peace Park in Nagasaki city, there are a couple of monuments constructed and museums set up in its compound. There were two monuments which I personally like a lot. The first one is Genbaku-no-ko-no-zo 原爆の子の像 otherwise known as Children's Peace Monument. This monument was erected in memory of a young girl named Sadako Sasaki 佐々木貞子 and thousands of children who fell victim to the bombing incident. Sadako Sasaki was only two years old when the nuclear weapon was deployed, and she died 10 years later after being diagnosed with leukemia as a result of radiation poisoning. Built in 1958, a bronze statue of a young girl depicting Sadako Sasaki stood on top of a concrete, arrow shaped monument with a bronze crane hanging within the structure acting as a wind chime. Around the monument, there are glass cabinets containing strings of colourful origami cranes donated by people all over the world, to pray for world peace.


The second one is Genbaku shibotsusha irehi 原爆死没者慰霊碑 or Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims. This cenotaph is dedicated to more than 28,000 victims who died from this fateful incident and their names are recorded in a book kept in the stone box which sits in the center of the structure. In my opinion, the location and design of the cenotaph was well thought out. As one stands in front of the cenotaph, he/she will be able to see two important monuments, Heiwa no tomoshibi 平和の灯 or Peace Flame and Genbaku Dome, through the opening of the saddle shaped structure. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Ceremony is held in the Peace Park on 6 Aug yearly, during which some 50,000 local citizens and visitors, as well as ambassadors and dignitaries from around 70 countries, come together to console the spirits of those killed by the atomic bomb and also to pray for lasting world peace. 

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Peace Memorial Park 平和記念公園, Genbaku Dome 原爆ドーム
広島県広島市中区大手町1丁目10
Free admission
http://www.city.hiroshima.lg.jp/www/dome/index.html
https://peace-tourism.com/spot/a-bombdome.html
https://www.hiroshima-navi.or.jp/post/006276.html

Museums located within Peace Memorial Park: 

(1) Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum 広島平和記念資料館
Opening hrs: 0830 - 1800 hrs (Mar - Nov); 0830 - 1900 hrs (Aug); 0830 - 1700 hrs (Dec - Feb)
Admission fee = 200 yen
http://hpmmuseum.jp/


(2) Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims 国立広島原爆死没者追悼平和祈念館
Opening hrs: 0830 - 1800 hrs (Mar - Nov); 0830 - 1900 hrs (Aug); 0830 - 1700 hrs (Dec - Feb)
Free admission
https://www.hiro-tsuitokinenkan.go.jp/


How to get there? 

(1) By Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus Meipuru~pu めいぷる~ぷ.
Take the bus from Shinkansen Exit Platform 2 for Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus Meipuru~pu. The Peace Memorial Park and Genbaku Dome are accessible via all three routes (Orange, Green and Lemon).
Alight at Heiwa Koen mae 平和公園前 or Genbaku Dome mae 原爆ドーム前.

Fare = 200 yen/trip
1 day pass = 400 yen
* Note: For travellers holding on to nationwide Japan Rail Pass, they can board this bus at no additional cost. Ironically, JR West Pass are not accepted on this bus.
Bus schedule: http://chugoku-jrbus.co.jp/teikan/meipurupu/

(2) By Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車 or Hiroden.
From Hiroshima Station, take Streetcar 2 or 6 and alight at Genbaku Dome mae 原爆ドーム前.
Fare = 180 yen
http://www.hiroden.co.jp/train/index.html

Friday, February 24, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Hiroshima JR Station 広島駅, Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車


Hiroshima JR Station (広島駅)  is a major train station on Sanyo Shinkansen line (山陽新幹線) and Sanyo main line. Hiroshima is the most populated and developed city in Chugoku region. Hiroshima is also home to the baseball team, Hiroshima Toyo Carp (広島東洋カープ) and their base is at Mazada Zoom Zoom Stadium, which takes about 10 minutes to walk to from the train station. I could still remember vividly when we first visited Hiroshima (came here by Setouchi Marine View train on Day 3), we were overwhelmed by crowds of excited fans, all donned in uniform red coloured jersey and holding on to various merchandise at the train station. Realised later that there was a baseball match held on home ground on the day of our visit which explained the exhilarating ambience felt in the town.


Stadium tour! If you are a baseball fan or interested to explore the base camp of Hiroshima Toyo Carp, you will be interested to join the guided tours offered by the stadium on stipulated dates. Currently, there are three courses to choose from, Standard (スタンダード), Backyard (バックヤード) and Ground (グラウンド). The participation fee is 1,000 yen for the Standard course, and 1,500 yen separately for Backyard and Ground course. For people visiting for the first time, the Standard course, which covers areas such as party floor, press room and third bullpen, is recommended. Reservation can be done through the website provided below. Do note that for all the guided tours, the explanation will be carried out in Japanese. This is a place I will want to visit when I am in Hiroshima next time!
Hiroshima Toyo Carp Stadium Tour (in Japanese): http://www.carp.co.jp/stadiumtour/index.html


Shinkansen and limited express trains serving Hiroshima JR Station include:
(1) Nozomi, the fastest speed Shinkansen commuting between Tokyo and Hakata, via Okayama and Hiroshima in Chugoku region.
(2) Mizuho, the fastest speed Shinkansen commuting between Shin Osaka and Kagoshima Chuo, via Okayama and Hiroshima in the Chugoku region.
(3) Sakura. This shinkansen commutes between Shin Osaka and Kagoshima Chuo, via Okayama, Fukuyama, Hiroshima and Shin-Yamaguchi in the Chugoku region.
(4) Setouchi Marine Liner (瀬戸内マリンビュー), commutes between Mihara and Hiroshima via Kure line and operates only on weekends and public holidays. 

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What's nearby?


(1) Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車 or Hiroden in short, on the South Exit of train station.
http://www.hiroden.co.jp/train/index.html
Similar to more populated cities, Hiroshima city has its own extensive network of electric tram. There are a total of 9 lines and streetcar 1, 2, 5 and 6 departs from Hiroshima Station.
- Streetcar 1: Hiroshima Ekimae > Hatchobori > Kamiyacho-higashi > Hiroshima Port
- Streetcar 2: Hiroshima Ekimae > Hatchobori > Kamiyacho > Genbaku Dome-mae > Miyajima-guchi
* Not recommended to take streetcar to Miyajima-guchi from Hiroshima Station because duration taken is significantly longer (1 hour) than conventional trains (30 mins).
- Streetcar 5: Hiroshima Ekimae > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port (32 mins)
- Streetcar 6: Hiroshima Ekimae > Hatchobori > Kamiyacho > Genbaku Dome-mae > Eba

Fare (Between Hiroshima Ekimae and Genbaku Dome-mae, Hiroshima Port): 180 yen
1 day pass = 600 yen
1 day pass (inclusive of Miyajima Matsudai ferry) = 840 yen


(2) Bus stops, on both exits of the train station.
There are a few bus operators in Hiroshima, namely Hiroshima Bus (広島バス), Hiroden (which also operates the electric tram) and JR Chugoku Bus.

South Exit
There are numerous buses operated by Hiroshima Bus and Hiroden which pass by Hatchobori (八丁堀), Kamiyacho (紙屋町), Atomic Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム) and Peace Memorial Park departing from the bus stops located in front of South Exit. To name a few:
- Platform 3: Hiroshima Bus 24 for Hatchobori, Kamiyacho, Hondori and Peace Memorial Park (180 yen).
- Platform 6: Hiroshima Bus 25 for Hatchobori, Kamiyacho and Genbaku Dome (180 yen).
- Platform 17: Hiroshima Bus 21 for Mazada Stadium (180 yen).

Shinkansen Exit
- Platform 2 for Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus Meipuru~pu めいぷる~ぷ.
Offered by JR Chugoku Bus, this is a loop service bus which offers visitors a convenient way to explore sightseeing spots within the city. There are a total of three routes (Orange, Green and Lemon), and all three routes pass by Atomic Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム), which was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, and Peace Memorial Park. The busiest shopping street/area in the city is at Kamiyacho (紙屋町) and Hondori (本通り). Both are actually located some distance away from the main train station and are accessible via electric tram and loop bus.
  • Orange Route covers Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum (Shukkeien), Hiroshima Castle, Hiroshima Museum of Art, Kamiyacho, Hatchobori and Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art. I utilised this bus route to get to Hiroshima Castle. 
  • Green Route covers Hatchobori and Oknomi-mura.
  • Lemon Route covers similar route as Orange Route except it does not drop by Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art. 
Fare = 200 yen/trip
1 day pass = 400 yen
* Note: For travellers holding on to nationwide Japan Rail Pass, they can board this bus at no additional cost. Ironically, JR West Pass are not accepted on this bus.
Bus schedule: http://chugoku-jrbus.co.jp/teikan/meipurupu/

- Platform 5 for Hiroshima Airport limousine bus service. It takes about an hour to commute between Hiroshima Airport and the train station.
Fare = 1,340 yen
Bus schedule: http://www.hij.airport.jp/timetable/access/timetable.pl?operation=detail&mode=en&s=201804&e=201806&kbn=1&grp=2&f=1

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Commemorative stamps:



Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mihara JR Station 三原駅, Setouchi Marine View 瀬戸内マリンビュー

Travelled 18.04.2015 (Sat)

Setouchi Marine View making a brief stop at Kure JR Station.
Long overdue review but train still in operation. I was extremely fascinated by the various themed trains offered by JR West while researching for my itinerary. On the day of arrival in Japan, I was able to secure seats for two of them - Setouchi Marine View and SL Yamaguchi. Despite this being a long overdue post (almost three years later), I have checked that both themed trains are currently still in operation.

Setouchi Marine View (瀬戸内マリンビュー), is a sightseeing train which commutes between Hiroshima (広島駅) and Mihara (三原駅) via Kure line (呉線). This train only operates on weekends and public holidays, with only one return trip made per day.
  • Setouchi Marine View 1: Hiroshima > Mihara
  • Setouchi Marine View 2: Mihara > Hiroshima
For the latest Setouchi Marine View operating schedule (till Jun 2018): http://www.jr-odekake.net/navi/setouchi_cp/setouchi_train.pdf
  • Setouchi Marine View 1: Hiroshima (1002 hrs) > Mihara (1226 hrs)
  • Setouchi Marine View 2: Mihara (1426 hrs) > Hiroshima (1704 hrs)
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Highlights: 

Mihara is an "octopus" town.
As Kure line runs alongside Seto Inland Sea, train journey is particularly well known for its panoramic view of the stretch of waterway separating Honshu from Shikoku. Apart from the terminus stations - Hiroshima (広島駅) and Mihara (三原駅), Setouchi Marine View train also stops at Tadanoumi (忠海駅), Takehara (竹原駅) and Kure (呉駅), located along Kure line.
  • Mihara (三原駅): At and around the train station, many pictorial representations and statues of octopus can be spotted. Waters around Mihara city are excellent breeding grounds for octopus and octopus fishing has flourished here since Edo Period. Apart from being known as an "octopus' town, the current train station also sits on the remains of Mihara Castle. After exiting from the Shinkansen ticket gates, you will see signages to an exit where visitors can see the remains of the castle foundation (which has been converted into a public park) and its surrounding moat. 
  • Tadanoumi (忠海駅): Tadanoumi Port is about 7 minutes walk away from the train station. Ferry departs from this port to Okunoshima (大久野島), which is famously known as the "rabbit" island. This small island, where rabbits are the primary inhabitant, has been on the limelight for quite some time and was featured on numerous travel programs. Other than cuddling with the furry adorable animals, visitors can also learn more about the role played by Okunoshima during WWII in the Poison Gas Museum (大久野島毒ガス資料館). Ferry schedule: http://sanyo-shosen.jp/omishima/index.html
  • Takehara (竹原駅): About 15 minutes walk away from the train station is Takehara Preservation District of Important Historical Buildings (竹原町並み保存地区). Once flourished as a salt industry in the Edo Period, old buildings from the era have been retained as cultural property for future generation to appreciate. 
Imaging yourself cruising on the sea - the purpose of these portholes found in the train carriage.

Comfortable sofa seats. 
Cruise or train? Setouchi Marine View is made up of two train carriages. First carriage comprises of reserved seating while the second carriage is free-seating. For my trip, I sat on Setouchi Marine View 2 which departed from Mihara for Hiroshima. When the train pulled into the station, I was immediately attracted to its beautiful and luxurious looking exterior - blue and white outlook decorated with oars and life buoys on the front. Inside the train, the wood parquet flooring, sofa seats and cosy lighting created a strong resort ambience. What makes this train unique is that some of the windows are portholes, similar to those found on ships. As the train cruises along the perimeter of Seto Inland Sea, admiring the sea view through the portholes did make me feel like I was on a ship instead of train! I have to agree that the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea is particularly amazing on a good day; see how the sea glitters under the sun and a clear view of the nearby islands can be captured.

Not a full fledged themed train. Overall, I was slightly disappointed by the train ride. There were not much to explore on board or keep guests entertained during the entire 2.5 hour train journey. I was surprised that there were no sale of food, drinks and merchandise on board. Though I love the theme of the train, I felt more could have been done to enhance the train ride experience.

Decorative items.

View of Seto Inland Sea captured from the train.

Setouchi Marine View #2 departed from Mihara JR Station. 
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Commemorative stamp:

Mihara JR Station
Commemorative boarding ticket: 

Setouchi Marine View

Monday, February 20, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館

Visited 18.04.2015 (Sat)


Origin. To my surprise, Onomichi Ramen actually originated from neighbouring Taiwan! In the past, there were many Taiwanese working in the flourishing ship building industry in Onomichi. One of them decided to reproduce this soul food from home for the benefit of his countryman which led to the emergence of a ramen shop here. The ramen was equally well-received by the locals and gradually became a specialty gourmet food that is unique to Onomichi. The secret to Onomichi Ramen is its tantalising soup, created using chicken bones and flavoured by soy sauce, with minced fatty pork floating on it. Having said that, each ramen shop has tweaked the recipe to create their very own signature soup base in order to stand out from one another. While researching food to eat in Onomichi, I was already drooling on the delicious looking pictures of Onomichi Ramen and was determined to try it during my visit!



Perfect combination. After visited Senkoji, we headed hungrily to Ichibankan, a well known ramen restaurant for lunch. Fortunately, there was no waiting queue and we were assigned a table immediately upon reaching the restaurant. Customers can choose their desired toppings for their ramen - ajitama (seasoned ramen egg), char siew, spring onion or even kimchi. Decided to order the No. 1 ramen on their menu - kakuni ramen 角煮ラーメン. When the huge bowl of ramen was served in front of me, my eyes were immediately drawn to the succulent cuts of braised pork belly topped on the noodles. The sensation derived from sinking my teeth into the kakuni was pure bliss as the meat was cooked to the right tenderness and the fatty portion literally melted in my mouth! Love the hearty serving of shiraga negi 白髪ネギ (or shredded scallions) which gave that additional touch of crunchiness and texture to the springy noodles. Ichibankan's version of soup is more towards seafood base and the umami flavour is brought out by boiling chicken bones, konbu, sardines, dried anchovies and dried sea cucumber over long hours. The first sip of soup wow-ed us instantly and our conclusion was pretty consistent with other customers as we eavesdropped exclamation of "oishii" from nearby tables too!

All in all, every aspect i.e. soup, noodles and toppings is exceptional standalone; while at the same time, they were able to complement one another in this excellent bowl of Onomichi Ramen.

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Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館
広島県尾道市土堂2丁目9-26
Operating hours: 1100 - 1900 hrs; closed on Fridays
http://www.f-ichibankan.com/

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Approx. 15 mins walk from Onomichi JR Station.

(2) By bus. Board any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). Approx 5 mins walk from here to Ichibankan.

Sunday, February 19, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Senkoji Temple 千光寺, Senkoji Koen 千光寺公園

Visited 18.04.2015 (Sat) 

View from the observatory of Senkoji Koen. Imagine how beautiful it will look like if the trees are decorated by blooming sakura flowers during the spring season!
Best view! On Day 3, we crossed the prefecture border from Okayama to Hiroshima, to visit Onomichi, a city located along Seto Inland Sea. First, we arrived at the foot of Mt Senkoji to board the ropeway heading towards Senkoji Park. Here in the park, there is an observatory where a panoramic view of Seto Inland Sea, the water body separating Onomichi city from the nearby islands, can be clearly captured on a good day. During the season of spring, visitors are welcomed by blooming cherry blossom trees which looked incredibly beautiful when seen from an altitude. Unfortunately, we came slightly after this alluring season and missed this spectacular scenery. What made up for this disappointment was that sakura flavoured soft serve was still available for sale here at the observatory!

Observatory. A restaurant is housed on the second level. Bought my sakura flavoured soft serve from the stall on ground level. 

A narrow waterway between Onomichi city and Mukoujima.

Made our way to Senkoji Temple via the kilometre long Path of Literature. 
And it gets even better! After satisfying our sweet tooth with soft serve cones, we followed the Path of Literature (文学のこみち), a pathway where boulders with poems engraved on them are scattered on both sides, and made our way to Senkoji Temple which is located just a few minutes walk away. Onomichi city has a total of 25 temples scattered in the different parts of the town and Senkoji Temple is the most well known of them all. Built in 806, Kannon-sama (otherwise known as the Goddess of Mercy) is worshiped here. Apart from being a place of worship, the striking vermilion coloured main hall of Senkoji Temple is an excellent observatory to capture a picturesque view of the surroundings! Was there at the right time to spot a train commuting along the Sanyo main line. From here, you can even see Onomichi Ohashi 尾道大橋, a bridge connecting Onomichi city to Mukoujima 向島. Shimanami Kaido しまなみ海道, which spans along Onomichi Ohashi, is a 60 km road which connects the main island of Honshu to Shikoku passing through six other smaller islands.

Under-rated. Personally I will recommend taking the ropeway up to Senkoji Park and descend by foot after visiting Senkoji Temple. Along the way down to the foot of Mt Senkoji, you will be able to see pagoda with exquisite architecture, pay a visit to other temples or even venture into artistic alleys such as Neko no Hosomichi (猫の細みち). In fact, I feel that Onomichi is a bit under-rated and has a lot more to offer. This is definitely one place that I will love to visit again!

The bell tower. On New Year's Eve, the bell will be sounded 108 times as locals usher in the new year. 

The main hall of Senkoji Temple, which is also an excellent observatory of Onomichi city. 

Most visitors will end up spending some time on this main hall of Senkoji Temple to admire the panoramic surroundings!

Can you spot both the train and Onomichi Ohashi?
The unusually round boulder located on the top of the rock structure is named Tama no iwa (玉の岩).


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Senkoji Temple 千光寺
広島県尾道市東土堂町15-1
Operating hrs: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Free admission


How to get there?

(1) Senkoji-san Ropeway 千光寺山ロープウェイ
Operating hours: 0900 - 1715 hrs
One way = 320 yen; Return trip = 500 yen
http://onomichibus.jp/ropeway/index.php


There are two ways to get to Senkoji-san Ropeway (千光寺山ロープウェイ), either by foot (which takes approximately 15 minutes) or take any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Onomichi Bus Terminal Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). There is a bus departing from this platform almost every 10 to 15 minutes, making bus a convenient option to get to the ropeway station located at the foot of the mountain.
Fee (from Onomichi ekimae to Nagae guchi) = 140 yen

Upon exiting from the terminus station at the summit, you will first reach Senkoji Koen where the observatory is located in. Senkoji Temple is about 10 minutes walk from here.

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Commemorative stamps:



Saturday, February 18, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Onomichi JR Station 尾道駅, Onomichi Hondori 尾道本通り


Onomichi JR Station (尾道駅) is a train station located along Sanyo main line and is the gateway to Senkoji (千光寺), a historic temple which has been around since 806 and Kannon is being worshipped here. Due its elevated position on a mountain slope, the main hall became a popular destination to capture a panoramic view of Onomichi city and Seto Inland Sea.

This train station is only served by local trains and the fastest way to get to here from either Okayama or Hiroshima is as follows:
- from Okayama, board Kodama on Sanyo Shinkansen line heading for Hakata, alight at Fukuyama 福山駅 and transfer to local train.
- from Hiroshima, board Kodama on Sanyo Shinkansen line heading for Shin Osaka, alight at Mihara 三原駅 and transfer to local train.

Onomichi Tourism Association: https://www.ononavi.jp/index.html


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What's nearby?


(1) Bus Terminal, about a minute walk from the train station. Upon exiting from the train station, turn right and the bus terminal will be within sight.
- There are two ways to get to Senkoji-san Ropeway (千光寺山ロープウェイ), either by foot (which takes approximately 15 minutes) or take any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). There is a bus departing from this platform almost every 10 to 15 minutes, making bus a convenient option to get to the ropeway station located at the foot of the mountain.
Fee (from Onomichi ekimae to Nagae guchi) = 140 yen
(2) Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street 尾道本通り, about five minutes walk from the train station.
The entire stretch of Onomichi Hondori is about 1.2 km long and is completely sheltered. Such covered walkway where shop houses lined the sides of the street is actually quite a common sight encountered in Japan. One major concern pertaining to these streets is the decline in patrons (especially foreigners) over the years. Especially in smaller cities/towns, many of these shop houses have ceased operations and is in need of revitalisation to survive in the modern days. In recent trips, it is heartening to see signs of improvements which are brought about by younger entrepreneurs choosing to set up their businesses here, injecting life to these hushed shopping streets.

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After visited Senkoji and had Onomichi Ramen at Ichibankan (尾道ラーメン壱番館) for lunch, we made our way to the shopping street, heading towards the direction of Onomichi JR Station.


Yu-Yu- (ゆーゆー): This is a building which will grab anyone's attention while strolling along the street. Formerly a communal bathhouse, which has been around for more than a century since the Meiji era, Yu-Yu retains most of the features inside out even after being converted into a cafe and shop. Take for example the two doors to Yu-Yu-, these were previously the entrances to the male and female bathhouses. Though we did not patronise both the cafe and shop in the end, we found many people like us walking into the building, trying to identify and relate to the various nostalgic elements/details which were left behind by the olden days. 
Opening hrs: 1100 - 1700 hrs; closed on Thursdays.



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Bakery Koro (パン屋航路): In general, Onomichi Hondori was pretty quiet on the day of our visit but there was one shop which was unexpectedly packed with patrons. Our noses led us towards this modern looking shop where an aromatic scent of freshly baked bread was continuously coming from it. Bakery Koro focuses and is particular about dough formation as it aims to create more wholesome tasting bread. There is a huge varieties of bread to choose from; could not resist the temptation and decided to join the crowd. Because it was freshly delivered out from the oven, the crispy crusted bread was soft on the inside with well distributed air pockets. One hidden gem uncovered!
Opening hrs: 0700 till all the bread is sold out for the day (~1800 hrs); closed on Thursdays and Fridays.
Website: https://www.facebook.com/%E3%83%91%E3%83%B3%E5%B1%8B%E8%88%AA%E8%B7%AF-1571256129768935/



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Onomichi Hondori website: http://www.okaimonomichi.com/shop/index.htm

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Commemorative stamp:




Friday, February 17, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Day 3 Onomichi 尾道, Hiroshima 広島

Day 3: 18.04.2015
* Day 3 of 7 Days Sanyo & San'in Area Pass 

Onomichi City
Breakfast: Toyoko Inn Okayama Eki Nishi Guchi Hiroba 東横イン岡山駅西口広場

Okayama JR 岡山駅 (0825 hrs) > Fukuyama JR 福山駅 (0841 hrs)
by Hikari ひかり 491.

Fukuyuma JR 福山駅 (0849 hrs) > Onomichi JR 尾道駅 (0910 hrs)
by local train.

Onomichi Eki Bus Stop 1 > Nagae guchi 長江口
by Onomichi Bus. [140 yen]

One way Mt Senkouji Ropeway 千光寺山ロープウェイ. [280 yen]

Visited:
- Senkoji Koen Observation Platform 千光寺公園展望台
- Senkoji Temple 千光寺
http://www.senkouji.jp/

Lunch: Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館

Visited Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street 尾道本通り.

Onomich JR 尾道駅 > Mihara JR 三原駅
by local train

Sentouchi Marine View Train
Mihara JR 三原駅 (1325 hrs) > Hiroshima JR 広島駅 (1607 hrs)
by Sentouchi Marine View #2

Hiroshima Ekimae 広島駅前 > Genbaku Dome Mae 原爆ドーム前
by Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車. [160 yen] *Fare increased to 180 yen

Visited:
- Genbaku Dome 原爆ドーム
- Peace Memorial Park 平和記念公園

Dinner: Bought bread from Andersen (Main Shop).

Hondori 本通り > Hiroshima Ekimae 広島駅前
by Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車. [160 yen] *Fare increased to 180 yen

Hiroshima 広島駅 (1917 hrs) > Okayama JR 岡山駅 (1952 hrs)
by Nozomi のぞみ 60.

- End of Day 3 -

Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Cafe Honmachi 喫茶ほんまち

Visited 17.04.2015

Right: Cafe Honmachi is loacted on the second floor.
Was flipping through this local magazine featuring the sights, sounds and food in Okayama when I was in Cafe Antenna on Day 1. A picture of an adorable latte art from one cafe caught my attention and sparked my interest to pay this cafe a visit if time permits on the next 3 days. The cafe is not remotely located, in fact just nearby Okayama JR Station.

Managed to fork out some time on Day 2 night to visit this cafe after a day trip to Kurashiki. With the help of GPS, we came to a row of shop houses but could not spot any prominent sign board from the cafe. After walking up and down that same row of shop houses at least once, my eye finally caught sight of this small board supported on a stool. This board was placed just in front of the flight of stairs leading to the second floor of a shop house unit - and yes, that was Cafe Honmachi's. For a moment, I hesitated whether I should go up because it fell short of my expectation in terms of appearance. Crossed my fingers and made my way up in the end.


Place was small with only one person attending to the entire cafe. Cafe could only occupy less than 15 diners - 2 to 3 small tables, some seats faced the window and wall and a few counter seats. The cafe allows diners to smoke, therefore the lingering tobacco smell in the enclosure could be uncomfortable for non-smokers (including us). With the thought that we would only just stay here for a short while and happened that there was a table (facing the wall) available, we decided to settle down and put up with the smell.

Delicious club sandwiches!
Cafe serves light snacks, drinks and desserts. Ordered two different types of club sandwiches and drinks to go with the food. Took some time for the food and drinks to come as he had to take on multiple roles - the waiter, barista, cook and cashier, yet still maintains his composure and control food quality as he completes the orders in a comfortable way. Fresh lettuce and tomatoes, tender chicken and moist scrambled eggs stuffed between fragrant black sesame toasts - loved how the various flavours came together harmoniously and this is definitely one of the best sandwiches I have eaten in my life. The BLT was equally good, with that pinch of heat (black pepper) emerged in the mouth as you take a bite into the sandwich.

Coffee was the main reason that brought me here and I must say it did not disappoint at all. Mocha, served in delicate English cups and saucer, came with a very nice latte art depicting a rabbit holding a heart, which will definitely bring a smile to any diner who receives the drink. Not only the cup of mocha looked nice, it tasted very good as well - very smooth and well-balanced in all aspects.

My cup of cafe mocha.
All the positive critics that I have gathered on the food and drinks diverted my attention away from the disturbing tobacco smell lingering in my surrounding. Glad to have come to this place after all! 

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Cafe Honmachi 喫茶 ほんまち
岡山県 岡山市北区 本町 2-22 錦ビル 2F
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2400 hrs (Last order: 2300 hrs)
Approx 3 mins walk from Okayama JR Station