Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Iya Onsen Wanoyado 祖谷温泉和の宿, Hi no Ji ひの字 ("Hi" Valley)

Stayed 18.11.2014 (Tue)
Booked thru' Rurubu.
- Japanese style room = 58,320 yen (3 pax) + 450 yen (bathing tax, 150 yen/pax) = 58,770 yen SGD/pax

Can you spot the hotel? 

We hopped onto the hotel complimentary pick up service which waited for us (and other guests) at Michi no eki Oboke (道の駅 大歩危), which was also the last stop of the one day Oboke/Iya sightseeing bonnet bus trip. This seamless transfer was kindly arranged by Shikoku Kotsu, the company that operates Oboke/Iya sightseeing bus route. We were asked whether we would be staying overnight in Iya Onsen when we were reserving the seats for the sightseeing tour over the phone (with the help provided by the staff from the tourist information center in Tokushima JR Station). Kudos to Shikoku Kotsu for providing this additional service to link up with the local hotels!

"Hi no Ji" Valley.

Hi no Ji. Though it was a short 10 - 15 mins bus journey, the driver acted as a temporary tour guide and introduced us to several features that came into our view along the way. First he stopped at a spot where the beautiful "Hi no Ji (ひの字)" valley can be best viewed and he even allowed us to alight from the bus to capture photos! The name came from the unique shape of the stream which resembled the hiragana character "ひ". Next he brought our attention to this small building located on the slope of the valley. It was Wanoyado, the hotel which we would be staying for the night, strategically positioned to overlook at the meandering stream of Iya valley. I have to admit that the rather daunting location of the hotel did make me worry for a while but soon got over it as my eyes were drawn to the spectacular surrounding terrain and scenery.

Top right: Woke up to this beautiful view in the morning! Bottom right: Communal indoor bathhouse located on first level of main building.

Rooms and facilities. If I remember correctly, there are no lifts in the hotel (not that I was aware of). Wanoyado is not very big, comprised of six storeys with 29 guest rooms. Entrance and main restaurant (Keikoku no sato) are located on the fourth level. We were assigned to a Japanese style room on the new wing, which was connected to the main building on the fifth level. Room was spacious (22 m2) enough to occupy up to three persons and was also equipped with a massage chair and a BOSE CD player. There is a shop selling locally produced souvenirs on the same level as the lobby. Wanoyado is also proud of their exclusive range of toiletries which is made of local spring water and can be purchased at their shop.

Onsen with a view. Wanoyado is a member of Japan's hidden hot spring association also referred to as Nihon Hitou (日本秘湯). Ryokan/hotels which are part of this association are typically located in much secluded areas surrounded by well preserved natural landscape. Accessibility to these accommodation is not ideal as they are normally situated in mountainous region, but this is what makes them appealing to many travellers, especially for city dwellers to come closer to diminishing nature in this era. One unique feature of Wanoyado is that guests have to descend 170 m via cable car to reach the rotenburo, or open air bath, located right at the bottom of the valley! During the five minutes cable car ride, we were enthralled by the beautiful autumn foliage wrapped onto the slopes of the valley. Both rotenburo (separated by gender) were built alongside the Iya river. Never felt so close to nature before as I get to soak into the therapeutic hot waters while marveling at the panoramic mountainous scenery. When cable car operation ceased at night, guests can still utilise the communal indoor bathhouse located on the first level in the main building. Hot spring waters is cloudy in appearance due to the presence of white mineral deposits and leaves a smooth sensation on your skin. 

Clockwise from top left: Salad sticks; Grilled amego; Shiitake mushroom tea pot soup; Vegetable tempura; Appetisers; Iya soba.

Local food. Dinner started off with a small glass of yama momo red wine. Appetiser comprised of seven different small dishes, such as fried ginko nuts on sticks and chestnuts, were artistically arranged in a rattan basket. Was surprised to see a western dish (洋皿) in the menu but it was simply just vegetable sticks accompanied with several dipping sauces such as spicy miso, tomato and toro yuba (トロ湯葉). Toro yuba is the layer of silken tofu skin that is formed on the surface of heated soymilk. Liked the flavour of the shiitake mushroom teapot soup, drank together with a squeeze of lime. Assorted vegetables such as pumpkin and eggplant were served in tempura style. Local specialties and ingredients were featured extensively in this autumn inspired kaiseki course such as sobasubeshi (そばすべし) which is a type of thick vegetable soup; grilled amego fish, caught from Iya valley, served together with dried persimmon; Awa pork (阿波ポーク) hot pot and the well known Iya soba made from locally cultivated buckwheat. Ended the dinner with a refreshing yuzu sherbet and juicy kyoho grapes. Overall, it was a very fulfilling dinner - though my nose was being lured away by the sizzling Awa beef on hot plate relished by other patrons. 

More local food were introduced during breakfast on the following day such as Ishi tofu (石豆腐), translated literally as "stone tofu", is a type of dense and firm beancurd and Sobagomezosui (そば米雑炊), a soup containing shelled buckwheat kernel, carrot and tofu. Entered the restaurant and was welcomed by an unobstructed and breathtaking view of Iya valley. The beauty and contrast of autumn foliage were further elevated by rays from the sun. Being able to enjoy a hearty breakfast surrounded by stunning natural landscape was truly a one of a kind experience that I would remember Shikoku for.

Conclusion. Iya Onsen is definitely the most secluded and inaccessible hot spring town I have ever visited in Japan. Overall, the stay in Wanoyado was very revitalising and satisfying. I can only say if there is one place I will want to return to in Shikoku, Iya Onsen will definitely be on the top of my list!

======

Iya Onsen Wanoyado 祖谷温泉和の宿
〒778-0165 徳島県三好市池田町松尾松本367-2
http://www.iyaonsen.co.jp/

How to get there? 

(1) Complimentary pick up service to/fro Oboke JR Station (大歩危駅). Reservation is required to utilise this pick up service.
- From Oboke JR Station, bus leaves for hotel at 1610 hrs.
- From hotel, bus leaves for Oboke JR Station at 0940 hrs.

(2) Bus
From Awa Ikeda JR Station (阿波池田駅), take Shikoku Kotsu (四国交通) bus heading for Kazurabashi (かずら橋)  via Deai (出合) and alight at Iya Onsen Mae (祖谷温泉前). Do note that there are only three buses to Iya Onsen per day (0716, 1026, 1246 hrs).
Bus schedule: http://yonkoh.co.jp/pdf/timetable/110.pdf

======

Video: