Saturday, November 11, 2017

Tohoku 2016 東北の旅 - Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen 黄金崎不老ふ死温泉

Stayed 18.05.2016 (Wed)
Reserved via hotel website.
- Single room with half board = 13,500 yen + 150 yen (bathing tax)





I want to go! Being a seasonal traveller to Japan, I have learnt to enjoy hot spring, which has became one of my essential on every trip. Personally, I adore the outdoor section especially those that come with a view or beautiful landscaping. Found out about Furofushi Onsen 不老ふ死温泉 through NHK’s Train Cruise program and I would describe the encounter as a love at first sight. The hotel's outdoor hot spring pool is located right on the rocky coast, therefore boasts a spectacular view of the Sea of Japan. One other aspect of this hot spring which caught my attention was actually its name. The kanji characters of furofushi means immortality and I believe the name came about because of the healing powers that the hot spring waters possesses. Drawn to all these special traits, I made up my mind to pay this place a visit to see and experience it for myself.



Sunset. On Day 7, after visiting Hakodate in the day, I made my way to WeSPA Tsubakiyama ウェスパ椿山駅 via Resort Shirakami リゾートしらかみ and connected seamlessly to the free shuttle bus service provided for guests visiting Furofushi Onsen at this designated train station. Along the way to my accommodation for the night, I was greeted by the remaining moments of sunset. Fukaura-machi 深浦町, a coastal town which is bordered by the Sea of Japan, is well known for its breathtaking sunset view; already watched a prelude during the train journey along the scenic Gono line 五能線.







Room and facilities. Hotel is divided into the main (honkan) building and new (shinkan) annex. Was assigned to a western style single occupant room in the new annex. Regardless of which building the guest room is located in, a panoramic view of the Sea of Japan is unveiled once the curtains are pulled open. Opening of window will send the soothing sea breeze and the sound of waves crashing onto the coast into the room. The room was more spacious than the equivalent in budget business hotel. After completing the check-in procedure, it was already past sunset and the outdoor seaside hot spring, which I looked forward most to, was closed for the day. The outdoor facility is closed at night for safety reasons; operation begins at sunrise and ends at sunset. Had to wait for the following morning to be able to utilise this dream pool by the seaside. In the hotel lobby, there is a shop selling local specialty and souvenirs - bought a postcard depicting the seaside outdoor pool from here to send back home.


Love this postcard depicting the stunning sunset view seen from its iconic outdoor seaside pool.

There are two other hot spring facilities, one in the main building (Kogane no yu 黄金の湯) and the other in the new annex (Furofushi no yu 不老ふ死の湯). The communal bathhouses are separated by gender. Kogane no yu has only indoor section, while Furofushi no yu has both indoor and outdoor section. Headed to Furofushi no yu to bathe and enjoy a relaxing soak in the hot spring pool just before dinner. The hot spring source is 200 m below the ground and about 400 litres of waters gush out from here every minute. The brownish colour of the waters is attributed by its iron content and the therapeutic waters has been used to treat ailments such as neuralgia, backache, rheumatism, wound pain and skin problems. From Furofushi no yu, the magnificent Sea of Japan and its weathered rocky coast can also be admired through the large glass panels in the indoor section. 



Sumptuous dinner. Both dinner and breakfast were served in the common dinning area named yu hi 夕陽 which means sunset. After washing off a day's fatigue in the hot spring tub, my stomach was yearning for dinner. Arrived at yu hi and was surprised by the sumptuous spread of food neatly arranged on the table which I was brought to. After speaking to the staff, I realised (and have forgotten) that I have requested for a dinner upgrade at the point of room reservation. Seafood was the theme of the entire dinner course and freshness is guaranteed as Fukaura-machi flourishes as a fishing town well known for its bountiful bluefin tuna catch.







Fulfilling. Started the meal with a small glass of Hirosaki apple sake. This was the first time I saw a "dancing" abalone; in which a whole abalone was placed on a hot plate and wine was poured over it to cook it, right in front of my eyes. There was another abalone dish - thinly sliced abalone in brine. Love the fresh sashimi platter comprised of bluefin tuna (with one precious slice of fatty otoro!), brill, yellowtail and Spanish mackerel. I literally had a seafood feast that night - sliced thread sail filefish and salmon roe dressed in grated radish and vinegar, grilled turban shellfish, deep fried yellowtail, mini seafood hot pot, vinegared seaweed jelly and chawanmushi in Tsugaru style. Even though I was already quite full up, I could not resist the bowl of rice topped with savoury salmoe roe. Ended the meal on an excellent note with a scoop of snow carrot vanilla ice cream. Breakfast on the following day was buffet style.








Finally. Woke up way earlier than usual to meet the ultimate objective of my stay in Furofushi Onsen. There are two outdoor hot spring pools by the seaside, one for female only and the other one is a mixed pool, and they are separated by a divider. Sunrise was at 5 am that morning; had to brave the chilly sea breeze while I walked from the hotel to the outdoor pools. Reached at 5.45 am and was the only one using the pool! It was truly a moment of luxury to have the spectacular and unobstructed sea view all to myself while warming up my body in the hot spring pool. The cold sea breeze was sweeping on my face and I was immersing myself to the relaxing sounds of sea waves throughout the soak. It was a dream came true. At the same time, I could imagine how stunning the view would have been during sunset especially when the pool was strategically facing west - if only I have arrived at the hotel earlier the previous day. One other thing that I missed during my stay here was to step out of the hotel to witness the enthralling starry night sky undisturbed by urban sky glow.



Looks like I will have to return one day...

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Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen 黄金崎不老ふ死温泉
〒038-2327 青森県西津軽郡深浦町大字舮作字下清滝15
Contact number: +81-0173-74-3500
http://www.furofushi.com/

How to get there?

(1) By complimentary shuttle service from WeSPA Tsubakiyama JR Station ウェスパ椿山駅.
Scheduled buses will pick up guests who are taking Resort Shirakami リゾートしらかみ号 to the train station. Otherwise, prior reservation is required to utilise this complimentary service.



(2) By Konan Bus Juniko Line 弘南バス十二湖線, which commutes from Ou Juniko 奧十二湖, stopping by Juniko JR Station 十二湖駅, WeSPA Tsubakiyama JR Station ウェスパ椿山駅 and terminates at Furofushi Onsen 不老ふ死温泉. Do note that this bus is only operational from mid Apr to end Nov and not all the buses terminate at Furofushi Onsen.
http://www.konanbus.com/travel/junilake.html



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Video: Furofushi Onsen featured in NHK's Train Cruise program.



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Commemorative stamp:

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