Murakami Station 村上駅 is a train station along Uetsu main line 羽越本線. Uetsu main line runs alongside the Sea of Japan coastline and spans across three prefectures (Niigata, Yamagata and Akita), connecting Niitsu 新津駅 in Niigata Prefecture to Akita 秋田駅 in Akita Prefecture. Once prospered as a castle town, some of the remaining samurai residences and machiya (traditional wooden houses) can still be seen around Ogunimachi 小国町 and Omachi 大町. Murakami is also famous for salmon (called iyoboya イヨボヤ here) and beef (cows bred in Murakami city 村上市, Tainai city 胎内市 and Sekikawa mura 関川村, and meat graded A4 and B4 and above are branded as Murakami-gyu 村上牛). Senami Onsen 瀬波温泉, a hot spring spot discovered in 1904 when people were searching for kerosene in the area, is about 10 minutes bus ride away from the train station. Located near Sea of Japan coastline, Senami Onsen is well known for its abundance of hot spring water and mesmerising sunset scenery.
Trains serving this train station include:
(1) Limited Express Inaho いなほ, commutes between Niigata 新潟駅 to Akita 秋田駅 via Hakushin line 白新線 and Uetsu main line 羽越本線. Train stations served by this train include Niigata 新潟駅, Toyosaka 豊栄駅, Shibata 新発田駅, Murakami 村上駅, Atsumi Onsen あつみ温泉駅, Tsuruoka 鶴岡駅, Sakata 酒田駅, Ugo Honjo 羽後本荘駅, Akita 秋田駅, etc.
(2) Kairi 海里, a special themed train introduced by JR East in Oct 2019, which commutes between Niigata and Sakata (in Yamagata Prefecture), via Hakushin line 白新線 and Uetsu main line 羽越本線. Train stations served by this train include Niigata 新潟駅, Shibata 新発田駅, Murakami 村上駅, Atsumi Onsen あつみ温泉駅, Tsuruoka 鶴岡駅, Sakata 酒田駅, etc
Website: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/kairi.html
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What's nearby?
(1) Bus stop, in front of the train station.
Bus services:
(a) Machinaka Loop Bus "Abessha" まちなか循環バス あべっ車 has two routes, the big loop (anticlockwise direction) and small loop (clockwise direction). Do take note that both bus routes are only in operation from Monday to Saturday, and it cost 100 yen per ride.
- Big loop 大回り: Route covers places such as Shin-machi 新町 and Iyoboya Kaikan イヨボヤ会館. The bus makes five round trips on its day of operation.
- Small loop 小回り: Route covers places such as Shiyakusho (City/Municipal Hall) 市役所 and Minami-machi 南町. The bus makes 10 round trips on its day of operation.
(b) Senami Round Bus せなみ巡回バス makes a round trip from Murakami Station to Senami Onsen 瀬波温泉. Similar to Machinaka Loop Bus, this bus also operates from Monday to Saturday and it cost 100 yen per ride. http://www.city.murakami.lg.jp/soshiki/13/machinaka-bus.html
(2) Tourist information center 観光案内所, located on the left after exiting from the train station.
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
(3) Iyoboya Kaikan イヨボヤ会館, about 20 minutes walk from the train station.
Pride. On this trip to explore Nagano and Niigata Prefecture, I managed to insert two special themed trains into my itinerary - Koshino Shu*Kura (from Joetsu Myoko 上越妙高駅 to Tokamachi 十日町駅) and Genbi Shinkansen 現美新幹線 (from Echigo Yuzawa 越後湯沢駅 to Niigata 新潟駅). Introduced by JR East in 2014, the concept of Koshino Shu*Kura was inspired by Japanese wine or sake, the pride of Niigata Prefecture. Fifth largest prefecture by geographical size, Niigata Prefecture is home to the highest number of sake breweries in Japan - as many as 89 sake breweries. Its name, Shu*Kura means sake storehouse (shu 酒 = sake, kura 蔵 = storehouse) and the asterisk symbol (*) represents rice (Niigata is famous for producing top quality rice which is also the main ingredient in brewing sake) and snow (Niigata is also a popular skiing destination).
Cruise. Koshino Shu*Kura covers several railway lines during its journey between Joetsu Myoko to Tokamachi. The train departs from Joetsu Myoko and travels along Myoko Haneuma Line 妙高はねうまライン to Naoetsu 直江津駅. Next, the train continues its journey along Shin Etsu main line 信越本線 until it reaches Nagaoka 長岡駅. As the section of Shin Etsu Main line between Naoetsu to Kashiwazaki runs alongside the Sea of Japan coastline, passengers can enjoy a panoramic sea view from the comfort of their seats while on board this train. From Nagaoka, the train moves further inland along Joetsu line 上越線 to Echigo Kawaguchi 越後川口駅. Lastly, it completes its final lap along Iiyama line 飯山線 and ends at Tokamachi 十日町駅.
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Highlights
Apart from the route between Joetsu Myoko to Tokamachi, the train also covers two other routes. The name is changed to Yuzawa Shu*Kura [ゆざわ Shu*Kura] when the train commutes between Joetsu Myoko to Echigo Yuzawa, and to Ryuto Shu*Kura [柳都 Shu*Kura] when the train commutes between Joetsu Myoko to Niigata. The train usually operates on weekends and public holidays; and makes a round trip on its day of operation. For passengers holding on to nationwide JR Pass, JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata area), JR East-South Hokkaido Rail Pass or JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass, you can make a seat reservation at no additional cost.
Sneaked into Car 1, dedicated for passengers who have purchased travel packages with View Travel.
Seats. The three carriage train is donned in contrasting navy blue and white colours. The entire train is made up of reserved seats in Car 1 and 3 and a event space in Car 2. Car 1 is reserved for passengers who have purchased travel packages with View Travel びゅう旅行. The package includes a meal (menu specially designed for this train and changes with season), served together with Koshino Shu*Kura's original Daiginjoshu 大吟醸酒. There are three types of seats in Car 1 - box seats catering to groups of four, observation pair seats and kutsurogi (relaxing) pair seats, both oriented to face the wide windows for a better view. We were assigned to seats in Car 3 which has conventional train seating plan and a free space with sofa seats for up to 8 people.
Our seats were in Car 3.
Sofa seats in the free space of Car 3.
Sake tasting corner of Kuramori. There are five different types of sake to try and the selection of sake is changed every two months.
Sake. The main highlight of the entire train ride awaits in Car 2. Kuramori 蔵守 is a service counter where both alcoholic and soft drinks, snacks, bento and train exclusive merchandise (sake cup, beer cup, key ring, towel, etc) are sold. There is a sake tasting corner where passengers can try up to five different types of sake, all manufactured in Niigata Prefecture. Though none of us are sake connoisseurs, we decided to give it a try in support of their effort to promote locally brewed sake. Chose three out of the five sake and bought grilled scallops to go along with the drinks. One of them was Daiginjoshu, high quality sake brewed from rice grains milled to 50% of weight or less and the other two were Junmaiginjoshu 純米吟醸酒, sake brewed from rice grains milled to at least 60% of weight and without addition of distilled alcohol.
Sea. About 40 minutes after departing from Joetsu Myoko Station, the train pulled into Omigawa Station 青海川駅 and made a brief stop here. Passengers were allowed to alight the train to explore this unmanned station along Shin Etsu main line. Said to be the train station closest to the Sea of Japan in Japan, the relaxing sounds of waves crashing onto the shore could be heard immediately when the train doors opened. From the platform closest to the shore, I could feel the cooling sea breeze sweeping towards me and see the whitewash waves hitting the rocky coastline just beneath my feet.
Music. What pairs well with alcohol? Music, of course! The atmosphere in the event space (in Car 2) is completely liven up during two jazz band performance sessions held during the train cruise. Passengers gathered around the band, with drinks in their hands and swaying gently to the rhythm of the songs. One other event which took place on board the train was a complimentary sake tasting session organised by one of the sake breweries from Niigata Prefecture. On the day of our train ride, we had the opportunity to try four different types of sake (Daiginjoshu, Junmai Ginjoshu and Junmaishu 純米酒) brewed by Echigo Sakura Brewery 越後桜酒造 located in Agano city 阿賀野市. The entire session was pretty engaging, as the representative from the brewery did a brief introduction of their sake and welcomed everyone to taste their signature sake; while the audience responded with queries, followed by sake sampling. This is the first time I was exposed to so many different types of sake. After this experience, I have become slightly more receptive to Japanese wine and I like Daiginjoshu the most out of all, for its light and refined taste.
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Commemorative stamps:
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Video: Ryuto Shu*Kura was previously featured in NHK's Train Cruise programme.
Shinshimashima Station 新島々駅 (AK14) is the terminus station on the 14.4 km long Kamikochi line 上高地線 operated by Alpico Kotsu アルピコ交通. It takes about 30 minutes to travel from Matsumoto Station to Shinshimashima Station by train. Shinshimashima Bus Terminal is connected seamlessly to this train station, where regular bus services operate from here to several sightseeing spots in the Northern Alps - Kamikochi 上高地, Norikura 乗鞍 and Shirahane Onsen 白骨温泉.
2 Day Free Passport
For my trip, I purchased a 2 Day Free Pass to cover my travelling expenses incurred during bus rides within Matsumoto city, train rides between Matsumoto and Shinshimashima, and bus rides to Kamikochi and Shirahone Onsen, over two consecutive days. Apart from unlimited bus and train rides (operated by Alpico Kotsu) for two days in designated area, one is also entitled to discounted entrance fee to several places of interest such as Matsumoto Castle (610 yen > 550 yen) and Matsumoto Art Museum (410 yen > 310 yen) with this convenient transport pass. The 2 Day Free Passport can be purchased from Matsumoto Bus Terminal, Shinshimashima Bus Terminal or Kamikochi Bus Terminal.
2 Day Free Passport = 7,000 yen
2 Day Free Passport + 1 [3 consecutive days] = 8,500 yen
Website https://www.alpico.co.jp/en/2day-free-passport/
Hotaka Station 穂高駅 is a train station located along Oito line 大糸線 in Azumino city 安曇野市. The city lies east of the Northern Alps and is blessed with abundance of mountain spring water, favouring the cultivation of rice, soba, wasabi, apples, etc. For my trip, I came to Azumino to visit two of its well known places of interest, Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社 and Daio Wasabi Farm 大王わさび農場. However, I hope to return to this city again after discovering that it has so much more to offer, especially the beautiful scenery of vast agricultural fields and mountainous landscape. The tranquil environment here also saw the birth of numerous art museums, such as Tokuzan Art Museum 碌山美術館, Azumino Arthills Museum 安曇野アートヒルズミュージアム and Azumino Chihiro Art Museum 安曇野ちひろ美術館.
Trains serving this train station include:
(1) Limited Express Azusa あずさ, commuting between Shinjuku 新宿駅 and Minami Otari 南小谷駅, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
(2) Resort View Furusato リゾートビューふるさと, a seasonal train commuting between Nagano and Minami Otari, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
Website: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/resortfuru.html
Limited Express Azusa.
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What’s nearby?
(1) Bus stop, in front of the train station.
Bus services:
- Azumino Shuyu Bus East Loop Daio line あずみ野周遊バス 東回り 大王線, departing Hotaka Station for Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社 and Daio Wasabi Farm 大王わさび農場.
- Azumino Shuyu Bus West Loop Chibiro Alps Park line あずみ野周遊バス 西回り ちひろ アルプス公園線, departing Hotaka Station for Alps Azumino National Government Park 国営アルプスあづみの公園, Azumino Arthills Museum 安曇野アートヒルズミュージアム and Azumino Chihiro Art Museum 安曇野ちひろ美術館.
Both bus services are available between 3 July to 31 November - daily during the summer season; on weekends and public holidays outside of summer season. https://www.azumino-e-tabi.net/transportation/azumino-excursionbus http://www.azumikanko-taxi.co.jp/2011/02/040-03.html
(2) Tourist information center 安曇野市観光案内所, located beside the train station.
(3) Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社, 3 mins walk from the train station.
Surrounded by towering cedar trees, this beautiful wood constructed shrine is where Wadatsumi no Mikoto 綿津見命, a sea deity and ancestor of Azumi clan (who migrated from northern Kyushu to Azumino) and Hotakami no Mikoto 穂高見命 are enshrined. One trivia about Azumino is that there are many Dosojin 道祖神 or traveller's guardian deity being worshipped in this city. Keep a lookout for a huge stainless steel Dosojin (depicting an old couple), which was erected in the premises of Hotaka Jinja in 2013 (Heisei 25), to commemorate the people of Nagano Prefecture achieving the highest life expectancy in Japan. Hotaka Station building was also inspired by this shrine which explained why its exterior bears some resemblances as well. http://www.hotakajinja.com/index.html
Stainless steel Dosojin depicting an old couple, symbolising good health, longevity and loving marriage/relationship.
(4) Tokuzan Art Museum 碌山美術館, 7 mins walk from the train station.
From its outwards appearance, one may mistaken this building as a church. This art museum, nearest to the train station, is dedicated to the works of Moriye Ogihara 荻原守衛 (Rokuzan 碌山), a sculptor who was born in Azumino and brought modern western style bronze sculpture to Japan. Turn left after exiting from the train station and keep a lookout for a brick path which will lead to the art museum. http://rokuzan.jp/
Hakuba Station 白馬駅 is a train station located along the Oito line 大糸線. The 105.4 km railway line connects Matsumoto Station 松本駅 in Nagano Prefecture to Itoigawa Station 糸川駅 in Niigata Prefecture. Hakuba-mura 白馬村 lies east of Ushirotateyama mountain range 後立山連峰 which forms a section of the bigger Northern Alps and Hakuba Happo-one Snow Resort 白馬八方尾根スキー場 was one of the venues in Nagano Prefecture which hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. Came to Hakuba because I wanted to visit Happo-ike 八方池, a small lake located 2,060 m above sea level in which the reflection of the three peaks of Hakuba 白馬三山 (Shirouma dake 白馬岳 - 2,932 m, Hakubayariga dake 白馬鑓ヶ岳 - 2,903 m and Shakushi dake 杓子岳 - 2,812 m) can be clearly seen on its water surface on a good day.
Trains serving this train station include:
(1) Limited Express Azusa あずさ, commuting between Shinjuku 新宿駅 and Minami Otari 南小谷駅, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
(2) Resort View Furusato リゾートビューふるさと, a seasonal train commuting between Nagano and Minami Otari, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
Website: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/resortfuru.html
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What's nearby?
(1) Bus stop, in front of the train station.
Bus services:
- Alpico Bus Hakuba Station - Hakuba Happo - Tsugaike line (白馬駅 - 白馬八方 - 栂池線)
- Alpico Bus Hakuba Station - Hakuba Happo - Sakurawa line (白馬駅 - 白馬八方 - 猿倉線)
Bus schedule: https://www.alpico.co.jp/traffic/local/hakuba/
* Both buses stop at Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal 白馬八方バスタミナール, the nearest bus stop to Happo Gondola Lift Happo Station 八方ゴンドラリフト八方駅. From the bus stop, it takes another 15 minutes to walk to Happo Station.
Rustic. Lunch was the first thing on our mind when we reached Obuse. Came to Kurabu 蔵部, a restaurant occupying a portion of the sake warehouse of Masuich Ichimura Sake Brewery 桝一市村酒造場. Kurabu serves yoritsuki ryori 寄り付き料理, a term used to describe the meals that are prepared for the people who had to work and stay in the brewery during the winter months. The restaurant aims to bring out the best in locally sourced ingredients using simple cooking methods, an important element of yoritsuki ryori. Stepped into the former warehouse with traditional "kawara" style roof and was greeted by a rustic ambience. The open kitchen concept draws the diners closer to the chefs, as well as the delectable aroma of food that are prepared upon order. Staying true to its traditional roots, Kurabu even has a kamado 竈, a traditional Japanese charcoal or wood fired stove, which they use to cook rice in a copper pot, just like how it was prepared for the sake brewing workers in the old days.
On the day of our visit, there were four mains to choose from its lunch menu and all the mains are served with rice cooked using kamado, miso soup and side dish.
- Thinly sliced layered roast Shinshu beef 信州産牛肩ロース重ね焼
- Roast miyuki pork marinated in miso and sake lees みゆき豚ロース味噌酒粕漬焼
- Sashimi platter comprised of three different types of fish お造り三種盛り
- Grilled fish of the day 本日の焼魚
Conventional washoku meal: sashimi platter served with rice, miso soup and side dish
Back to basics. Had the sashimi platter for myself and ordered the grilled fish of the day for my parents. The sashimi platter comprised of fresh catch of the day - Kanpachi 勘八 (greater amberjack/yellowtail), red seabream 真鯛 and salmon サイモン, and salmon was served as the grilled fish of the day accompanied with salad. Though there are no complex seasoning to overwhelm the palette, these simple washoku (Japanese cuisine) are equally satisfying and are apt testaments to what "less is more" meant. Looking back at all the Japanese food I have eaten before, fresh sashimi together with fragrant Japanese rice is one of my favourite comfort food that I will crave for every now and then.
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Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu 寄り付き料理 蔵部
長野県上高井郡小布施町大字小布施807
Operating hours: 1100 - 2200 hrs (last order at 2000 hrs) https://www.obusekurabu.com/
