Friday, March 10, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mizuki Shigeru Museum 水木しげる記念館, Gegege no Yokai Rakuen ゲゲゲの妖怪楽園

Visited 20.04.2015 (Mon)


Yokai exploration. This is a museum dedicated to Mizuki Shigeru 水木しげる, the late artist who created Gegege no Kitaro ゲゲゲの鬼太郎, the popular manga series depicting ghosts and spirits (otherwise known as yokai) in an amicable way. To be frank, I have limited knowledge about Gegege no Kitaro which originated way before I was born (first released in 1960) and have at most come across the main character, Kitaro, only a few times in my life. Therefore, this trip to Sakaiminato city, a place where Mizuki Shigeru spent much of his adolescent days in, was a great opportunity for me to better understand the background of this manga series and how influential it has been all this while.


Yokai vs Human. Close to the end of Mizuki Shigeru Road is where the museum is located. Upon entering the museum, visitors can welcomed by a figurine of Kitaro and Medama Oyaji, and a beautiful picture showcasing a caricature form of Mizuki Shigeru and his yokai creations. The exhibition hall is divided into sub sections, each with its own theme. On the second level, the characters of Gegege no Kitaro are represented on standing cut out boards and there are interesting display boards put up to provide a good overview/trivia of Kitaro and his family members. For example, an explanation on the process of how Medama Oyaji evolved to become a walking eyeball, an introduction of yokai no mori (yokai jungle), the place where Kitaro lives in, etc. A excellent bibliography of the late Mizuki Shigeru, documenting his life, the hardships he went through during WWII (during which he lost an arm) and contributions to the manga world, can be reviewed in one of the sections. Visitors get a glimpse of Mizuki Shigeru's workroom which is replicated in the museum; featuring his drawing tools and precious manuscripts. There is a Monsters' Cave, an enclosure where numerous figurines of yokai that have appeared previously in the manga series are displayed. Though the displays are all presented in Japanese, there are foreign language audio guides that can be rented by tourists to facilitate comprehension. And if you are lucky enough, you can even meet Kitaro and his friends, either loitering outside the museum or patrolling along Mizuki Shigeru Road. Do grab the chance to take a photo with them and they are more than willing to fulfill this request!



Send a postcard back! Here, visitors can find a specially designed postbox (like a straw hut) situated in Yokai Teien 妖怪庭園. An exclusive postmark featuring Kitaro are stamped on all postcards delivered through this postbox. To facilitate this, the ticket counter here sells both postcards and stamps, and there are even stationery supplies provided at the entrance hall for visitors to pen their thoughts on the postcards. Personally, I always find postcard an excellent souvenir / momento to bring back home from a holiday.




Yokai playground. A stone throw away from the museum is Gegege no Yokai Rakuen ゲゲゲの妖怪楽園. Here, visitors can take photos with more figurines depicting characters from the manga series, such as Kitaro 鬼太郎 and Nekomusume ねこ娘, in its outdoor compound. Apart from that, there are stalls set up in its premises where old school target and ball games can be played at a stipulated fee (300 yen/game). Though there is an overwhelming number of shops offering original Gegege no Kitaro merchandise along Mizuki Shigeru Road, there are some exclusive character goods available only at Gegege no Yokai Rakuen. Being a nanoblock fan, I set my eyes on the exquisite nanoblocks featuring Kitaro, Nekomusume and Medama Oyaji 目玉おやじ and bought them all back without much hesitation!

Completed nanoblock figurine of Kitaro!
Yokai Latte featuring Kitaro and Nekomusume.
Break time. Gegege no Yokai Rakuen also housed a cafe where light snacks and drinks can be enjoyed. Fancy some Yokai Latte 妖怪ラテ? You may wonder whether it is some exotic flavoured coffee just from its name, but it is actually normal cafe latte presented in a different way. You can choose from a handful of pictorial stencils (Kitaro, Nekomusume, Medama Oyaji, Ittan Momen 一反木綿 and etc) to be imprinted on the surface of your cuppa latte with cocoa powder. Ordered pancakes which has a small picture of Medama Oyaji stamped on the center, to go along with our Yokai Latte. In my opinion, I will consider the food to be more photo worthy than tasty.


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Mizuki Shigeru Museum 水木しげる記念館
鳥取県境港市本町5
Operating hours: 0930 - 1700 hrs
Admission fee = 700 yen
* Discounted fee for foreigners = 300 yen
http://mizuki.sakaiminato.net/




Gegege no Yokairakuen ゲゲゲの妖怪楽園
鳥取県境港市栄町138
Operating hours: 0930 - 1800 hrs
Free admission
http://www.yokairakuen.jp/



How to get there?

(1) By foot. Approx. 10 mins walk from Sakaiminato JR Station 境港駅.

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Video: Mizuki Shigeru Museum was featured in Taiwanese travelogue program "嗨 Let's go".


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Commemorative stamp:


Thursday, March 9, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Mizuki Shigeru Road 水木しげるロード

Visited 20.04.2015 (Mon)


Themed road. As the name suggests, this is a road dedicated to the late artist, Mizuki Shigeru, the creator of Gegege no Kitaro ゲゲゲの鬼太郎, the popular manga series featuring "yokai" otherwise known as spirits and monsters. Start your yokai expedition as soon as you step out from Sakaiminato JR Station and followed this route till you reach Mizuki Shigeru Museum. For newbies like myself, a trip to Sakaiminato city is the first step to better understand the background of Mizuki Shigeru who stayed here during his adolescent days and his well-received manga series created during his lifetime. There are numerous shops lined along the sides of Mizuki Shigeru Road, selling merchandise featuring characters from Gegege no Kitaro and the extensive line up of goods will definitely make anyone spoilt for choice.



Highlights:

Yokai Jinja. I am always impressed by the amount of effort invested by the locals to create such themed street. Scrutinising the high extensive level of details usually left me in bewilderment and I am always bombarded by the question "How did they think of that?" in my mind. For example, it is weird to know of the existence of a yokai shrine (妖怪神社), but its presence seemed legitimate and appropriate when situated along Mizuki Shigeru Road. Before entering the unconventional torii bearing the image of Itta-momen (一反もめん), visitors can first cleanse their hands at Medama Oyaji Kiyome no mizu (目玉おやじ清めの水), make up of a water fountain which intelligently used Medama Oyaji, the father of Kitaro, as the rolling ball in the center.     



Yokai expedition. Throughout the entire stretch of road, there are more than 100 bronze statues depicting the yokai which have appeared in the popular manga series. The Yokai Guide Book 妖怪ガイドブック, which can be purchased from the tourist information center located on the first level of Minatosakai Koryukan みなとさかい交流館, will come in handy at this point of time to better understand the origin of these yokai. With the same guide book, you can also embark on a yokai expedition by collecting the inked stamps from counters/stalls scattered at different parts of Mizuki Shigeru Road. While strolling along the road, you will also be "haunted" by the sound of the kuta (Japanese wooden clogs) wore by Kitaro, easily mistaken as someone following you at the back! Do keep a lookout for people donned in character costumes patrolling along the street whom you can approach for photos to be taken.






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Mizuki Shigeru Road 水木しげるロード
Stretch of road between Sakaiminato JR Station 境港駅 and Mizuki Shigeru Museum 水木しげる記念館.

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Sakaiminato JR Station 境港駅, Kitaro Ressha 鬼太郎列車


Sakaiminato JR Station, the terminus of Sakai line. Apart from being affectionately known as the hometown of Mizuki Shigeru, Sakaiminato is also one of Japan's major fishing bases with the highest harvest of benizuwai crab (a type of snowcrab) and maguro. In fact, transport infrastructure in this small city is rather extensive; accommodates a domestic airport (Yonago Kitaro Airport) where daily flights to and fro Tokyo and occasional flights to and fro Seoul and Hong Kong are in operation, and a harbour where ships depart for nearby Oki Islands and it is also a port of call for DBS Cruise Ferry which sails between Sakaiminato, Donghae in Korea and Vladivostok in Russia.
- Yonago Kitaro Airport: http://www.yonago-air.com/eng/
- DBS Cruise Ferry: http://www.dbsferry.com/eng/main/main.asp


Kitaro Station. Similar to other train stations along Sakai line, Sakaiminato JR Station is nicknamed Kitaro Station (鬼太郎駅). You will find yourself entering the world of yokai created by Mizuki Shigeru as soon as you alight from the train. Spot the sticker of Nekomusume, who is on the verge of transforming into a yokai with cat like features, as you walk along the train platform; take a rest on wooden benches in the waiting area with the company of Kitaro (on the back rest); be amused by the bronze statues of Kitaro and Nezumi Otoko overlooking a caricature version of Shigeru Muzuki, who is cracking his brains on a yet another exciting storyline, erected just outside the train station. There are just too many interesting features to look out for!

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Kitaro Ressha

On board Medama Oyaji (目玉おやじ).

Return journey with Sunakake Babaa (砂かけばばあ) and Konaki jijii (こなきじじい).

Return journey with Sunakake Babaa (砂かけばばあ) and Konaki jijii (こなきじじい).
Yokai expedition is definitely not complete without a ride on any of the six Kitaro Ressha (鬼太郎列車) which operates along the 17.9 km long Sakai line, shuffling between Yonago and Sakaiminato. Kitaro Ressha (鬼太郎列車) series comprises of six different themed train carriages - Kitaro (鬼太郎), Nekomusume (ねこ娘), Nezumi Otoko (ねずみ男), Medama Oyaji (目玉おやじ), Sunakake Babaa (砂かけばばあ) and Konaki jijii (こなきじじい) and the theme is thoroughly illustrated in each train. Boarded the train featuring Medama Oyaji (the father of Kitaro) during the journey from Yonago to Sakaiminato. Was amused by Medama Oyaji, who was depicted inside out the train in numerous poses, including the familiar portrayal of him sitting in a bowl enjoying his hot water bath and popping out from the hair of Kitaro. On the way back to Yonago, we rode on the train made up of two carriages featuring both Sunakake Babaa and Konaki jijiji. Pay attention to the announcement made by Kitaro and Nekomusume during the train journey and be entertained by the pictures of the characters in different expressions on the seat cushions and ceiling.


Based on the latest train schedule (2017), there are 22 and 17 round trips daily between Yonago and Sakaiminato on weekdays and weekends respectively. As Kitaro Ressha is in operation 17 and 16 times on weekdays and weekends respectively, the probability of riding on one of them is pretty high.
Sakai line train schedule (shaded train numbers indicate Kitaro Ressha in service): http://www.sakaiminato.net/c817/map/20160326jrsakai/

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What's nearby?

Medama Oyaji directing you to Minatosakai Koryukan!
(1) Minatosakai Koryukan みなとさかい交流館
A gigantic painting (7.5 m by 20.25 m) of Kitaro and his friends spread over the wall on the outside of this four storey tall building, comes into sight immediately when passengers alight from the train. Minatosakai Koryukan houses a harbour for ships departing for Oki Islands, an archipelago in the Sea of Japan and was designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark for its rich natural heritage.

Stamp Rally! Before you leave the train station to embark on your Yokai expedition, I would encourage all to visit the tourist information center located on the first floor to purchase a Yokai Guide Book (妖怪ガイドブック). This guide book was first introduced in 1995 and contains detailed account (only in Japanese) of all 153 bronze statues of Yokai and characters of Gegege no Kitaro erected along Mizuki Shigeru Road. With this book, visitors can participate in Yokai Stamp Rally (妖怪スタンプラリー) to collect inked stamps from counters/stalls set up along the same road. The current edition of Yokai Guide Book (18th edition) requires a total of 37 inked stamps to accomplish the stamp rally. Not too difficult, as the entire exercise is also facilitated (and made easy) by a map which clearly indicated the location of all the inked stamp counters (sometimes it can be placed inside a shop especially during rainy days). For those who are able to meet the ultimate objective, you will be awarded with a certificate of completion, which comes with a unique serial number, by the staff of tourist information center.

Certificate of completion and Yokai Guide Book.
My hard earned certificate! Bought my book from the tourist information center and began my stamp rally as I strolled leisurely from the train station to Mizuki Shigeru Museum. The book was about 90% completed by the time I reached Mizuki Shigeru Museum. Unfortunately, the forgetful me misplaced the book at a stamp counter outside the museum and by the time I realised it was lost and came back to look for it, the book was nowhere to be found. Almost had to give the stamp rally a miss until I spotted the sale of the guide book at Gegege no Yokai Rakuen (ゲゲゲの妖怪楽園). Without further ado, I bought the book and re-started the entire activity on the way back to the train station. However, the whole process was made difficult by bad weather. Protected my book from the heavy rain with my down jacket and braved the strong wind to visit every inked stamp counter again. Returned to the tourist information center drenched, but was joyous to hand over my completed book to staff and receive my reward. Managed to overcome the obstacles and make up for my own carelessness to become the 329,241st person to complete this stamp rally! A milestone was reached on 10 Oct 2016: a total of 370,000 people had successfully accomplished the mission since it was introduced in 1995.

Left: Inked stamp from Mizuki Shigeru Museum; Right: Inked stamp for completion of Stamp Rally.
Yokai Stamp Rally: http://www.sakaiminato.net/c817/youkai_news/STAMPRALLY/

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Commemorative stamp:

 

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Yonago JR Station 米子駅


Yonago JR Station serves the following railway lines:
(1) San-in main line (山陰本線). From here, trains commute eastwards to Kurayoshi (倉吉), Yura (由良) and Tottori (鳥取); commutes westwards to Tamatsukuri Onsen (玉造温泉), Izumo (出雲), Masuda (益田) and Yamaguchi (山口). 
(2) Terminus station on Sakai line (境線) and the gateway to Sakaiminato, the hometown of Shigeru Mizuki, who is the creator of the popular manga series, Gegege no Kitaro. From here, trains commute northwards to Yonago Airport and ends at Sakaiminato (境港).
(3) Hakubin line (伯備線). From here, trains commute southwards to Kurashiki and Okayama. 

Limited express/themed trains serving Yonago Station includes:
(1) Ltd Exp Super Matsukaze, commutes along San-in main line, between Tottori and Masuda.
(2) Ltd Exp Super Oki, commutes along San-in main line, between Tottori and Shin Yamaguchi.
(3) Ltd Exp Yakumo, commutes along Hakubin line and San'in main line, between Okayama and Izumo.
(4) Gegege no Kitaro themed trains, commutes along Sakai line, between Yonago and Sakaiminato. 


A yokai station? Because Sakaiminato is the hometown of Shigeru Mizuki, all train stations along Sakai line were creatively given nicknames based on characters (or yokai 妖怪) which appeared in his most popular manga series, Gegege no Kitaro. Therefore, Yonago Station is also known as Nezumi Otoko (ねずみ男) Station. In fact, Yokai exploration starts from Platform 0, where trains serving Sakai line depart from. Signage, posters, ornaments bearing the characters can be spotted at different areas on the platform. And if you are lucky, you may find yourself on board one of the few Gegege no Kitaro themed train serving Sakai line, to make your yokai exploration complete! For my trip, I managed to hop onto a train featuring Medama Oyaji (目玉おやじ), the father of Kitaro, at Yonago Station.

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What's nearby?


(1) Bus Terminal, located just in front of train station.
Platform 5: Free shuttle buses depart from here to Tottori Hanakairo (鳥取花回廊). For my trip, I utilised this convenient complimentary service to travel to and fro Tottori Hanakairo.
Timetable: http://www.tottorihanakairou.or.jp/site/page/hanakairou/access/shuttle/

Platform 7: Originally, there was a free shuttle bus which departs from here to Adachi Museum of Art. However, I found out that this service has ceased. An alternative bus route was recently introduced by Hinomaru Bus, which departs from Kaike Onsen, stops at Yonago Station and ends its route at Adachi Museum of Art. Unfortunately, there is only one bus service per day (arrives at Yonago Station at 0920 hrs) and bus fare is quite pricey (1,000 yen).
http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/y-000.pdf

Kaike Onsen (皆生温泉): It takes about 20 mins by bus from Yonago Station to Kaike Onsen, a hot spring town in Tottori Prefecture, located by the beach overlooking Sea of Japan.
Yonago Station <> Kaike Onsen: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/y-004.pdf

Airports: There are buses departing for both Tottori Sakyu Conan Airport (鳥取砂丘コナン空港) and Yonago Kitaro Airport (米子鬼太郎空港) as well.
Yonago Station <> Tottori Sakyu Conan Airport: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/hikouki/bus01.html
Yonago Station <> Yonago Kitaro Airport: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/hikouki/bus02.html

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Commemorative stamps:


Yonago JR Station
Yonago Station is also known as Mezumi Otoko Station, named after a character from Gegege no Kitaro.

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Day 5 Sakaiminato 境港

Day 5: 20.04.2015
* Day 5 of 7 Days Sanyo & San'in Area Pass 

Misasa Onsen in the day.
Breakfast: Mansuirou 万翆楼

Free hotel shuttle service from Mansuirou to Kurayoshi JR Station.

Kurayoshi JR 倉吉駅 (0858 hrs) > Tottori JR鳥取駅 (0927 hrs) 
by Super Matsukaze 4 *Took the wrong train which was heading in the opposite direction.

Tottori JR 鳥取駅 (0944 hrs) > Yonago JR 米子駅 (1045 hrs)
by Super Oki スーパーおき 3.

Yonago JR 米子駅 (1136 hrs) > Sakaiminato JR 境港駅 (1220 hrs)
by Kitaro Ressha 鬼太郎列車.

Mizuki Shigeru Museum
Visited Mizuki Shigeru Road 水木しげるロード.
http://www.sakaiminato.net/foreign/en/mizuki.html

Visited Mizuki Shigeru Museum 水木しげる記念館[Discounted entrance fee for foreigners = 300 yen]
http://mizuki.sakaiminato.net/

Visited Gegege no Youkai Rakuen ゲゲゲの妖怪楽園.
http://www.yokairakuen.jp

Sakaiminato JR 境港駅 (1554 hrs) > Yonago JR 米子駅 (1645 hrs)
by Kitaro Ressha 鬼太郎列車.

Yonago JR 米子駅 > Yasugi JR 安来駅
by local train.

Yasugi JR 安来駅 (1728 hrs) > Izumo-shi JR 出雲市駅 (1813 hrs)
by Yakumo やくも 17.

Checked in: Super Hotel Izumo Ekimae スーパーホテル出雲駅前
http://www.superhoteljapan.com/en/s-hotels/izumo/

Dinner: MOS Burger

- End of Day 5 -

Monday, March 6, 2017

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Misasa Onsen 三朝温泉, Yakushi no yu 薬師の湯, Kawaraburo 河原風呂

Visited 19.04.2015 (Sun)


Take a stroll. After checking in to Mansuirou, the hotel which we stayed for the night in Misasa Onsen, it was time to step out to explore the hot spring town. There are three main bridges spanning across Misasa River (三朝川). Misasa Bridge 三朝橋 is the most exquisite one out of the three; with beautiful stone made fence and decorated by traditional Japanese style lighting along its sides. At Kajika Bridge かじか橋, visitors can enjoy the foot bath located at the center of the bridge. At Koitani Bridge 恋谷橋, visitors can touch the figurine of Kajika Frog which is said to bring good relationships; there are even two frog shaped structures placed on both sides for visitors to hang their wooden wishing boards (known as ema) on and wish for good luck. Regardless of which bridge you are at, the view overlooking Misasa River from all of them is superb and the gushing sound made by the flowing waters the river felt so therapeutic to the ears, especially in this quaint little town. Though I had explore the town twice on my first day here (before and after dinner), I was eager to walk around in the town again on the following morning to immerse myself into this laid back atmosphere for one last time.

Misasa Bridge 三朝橋, the most beautifully constructed one out of the three.

Kajika Bridge かじか橋

Koitani Bridge 恋谷橋
Public baths and foot baths. There are two public bathhouses, named Tamawari no yu たまわりの湯 and Kabu-yu 株湯, here in Misasa Onsen. The former is located just beside the tourist information center, at one end of Misasa Bridge, while the latter is situated closer to Koitani Bridge. Apart from that, there are four foot bath pools in different parts of the town where visitors can stop by to soak their feet.


Misasa Onsen Ryokan Cooperative: http://spa-misasa.jp/eng/radium/

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Highlights:

(1) Onsen Hondori 温泉本通り
This is a street where a sense of nostalgia can be felt. Here you can find locals still sustaining their livelihood with their skills and trade. One of them is Kajikawa barber shop 梶川理髪館, easily identified by the trademark barber’s pole, continues to serve the people here faithfully. Even if you are not patronising any hair dressing service, visitors are welcome to look at the owner's huge collection of antiques put on display in the barber shop. Apart from the regular souvenirs shop, cafes, eateries and ryokan locating along the street, there is even a shop where old school fun fair games can be enjoyed!
- Kajikawa barber shop 梶川理髪館: http://barber.394u.jp/




(2) Yakushi no yu 薬師の湯
Operating hours: 0900 - 2200 hrs
Approx 2 mins walk from Misasa Onsen Kanko Shoko Center mae 三朝温泉観光商工センター前

This is one of the four footbaths in Misasa Onsen town, and is located about half way mark of Onsen Hondori. Apart from enjoying a rewarding soak for the feet here, there are tea cups provided here for people to take a sip of the hot spring waters flowing out from the center of the facility (the water comes from an outlet different from the footbath). Situated beside the footbath is a display wall named Onsen Monogatari-kan 温泉物語館 where precious pictures depicting the history of Misasa Onsen are showcased. In fact, there are many such galleries that served as mini museums, located in different parts of the town for visitors to explore and discover more about this place.

Yakushi no yu on the right and Onsen Monogatari-kan on the left.


(3) Kawaraburo 河原風呂
Operating hours: 24 hours

Looking down at the river from Misasa Bridge, you will first see a footbath (ashiyu 足湯). Behind the wooden shelf, there is a outdoor pool / rotenburo which is free for anyone to use. However, the barrier that everyone have to overcome is to strip naked and bathe openly in the public. Forget about the blinds since they do not cover the sides entirely and open up when the wind blows... Having said that, you will be surprised by the number of people who did not feel embarrassed to do so (so far, I only saw guys daring enough to try it).

Managed to venture into Kawaraburo early next morning to see how the rotenburo look like when no one was using the facility. Since the outdoor pool is as close as it can be to Misasa River, a privileged view of the river at grade level can be seen from here. In fact, it feels as if you are soaking in the river rather than in a pool.




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Misasa Onsen 三朝温泉




How to get there? 

(1) Hinomaru bus (日の丸バス) via Misasa line (三朝線), from Kurayoshi JR Station (倉吉駅).
There are regular bus services (hourly) commuting between Kurayoshi JR Station and Misasa Onsen. Board the bus from the train station and alight at Misasa Onsen Kanko Shoko Center Mae (in front of Misasa Onsen Tourist Information Center; 三朝温泉観光商工センター前). Bus journey is about 25 mins; fare = 470 yen.
Bus schedule
- Weekdays: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/k-004.pdf
- Weekends: http://www.hinomarubus.co.jp/kousoku_rosen/pdf/jikokuhyo/k-104.pdf

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Video: Taiwanese singer, A-Lin, was the travel promotion ambassador for Chugoku region in 2017.