Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館

Visited 18.04.2015 (Sat)

Origin. To my surprise, Onomichi Ramen actually originated from neighbouring Taiwan! In the past, there were many Taiwanese working in the flourishing ship building industry in Onomichi. One of them decided to reproduce this soul food from home for the benefit of his countryman which led to the emergence of a ramen shop here. The ramen was equally well-received by the locals and gradually became a specialty gourmet food that is unique to Onomichi. The secret to Onomichi Ramen is its tantalising soup, created using chicken bones and flavoured by soy sauce, with minced fatty pork floating on it. Having said that, each ramen shop has tweaked the recipe to create their very own signature soup base in order to stand out from one another. While researching food to eat in Onomichi, I was already drooling on the delicious looking pictures of Onomichi Ramen and was determined to try it during my visit!

Perfect combination. After visited Senkoji, we headed hungrily to Ichibankan, a well known ramen restaurant for lunch. Fortunately, there was no waiting queue and we were assigned a table immediately upon reaching the restaurant. Customers can choose their desired toppings for their ramen - ajitama (seasoned ramen egg), char siew, spring onion or even kimchi. Decided to order the No. 1 ramen on their menu - kakuni ramen 角煮ラーメン. When the huge bowl of ramen was served in front of me, my eyes were immediately drawn to the succulent cuts of braised pork belly topped on the noodles. The sensation derived from sinking my teeth into the kakuni was pure bliss as the meat was cooked to the right tenderness and the fatty portion literally melted in my mouth! Love the hearty serving of shiraga negi 白髪ネギ (or shredded scallions) which gave that additional touch of crunchiness and texture to the springy noodles. Ichibankan's version of soup is more towards seafood base and the umami flavour is brought out by boiling chicken bones, konbu, sardines, dried anchovies and dried sea cucumber over long hours. The first sip of soup wow-ed us instantly and our conclusion was pretty consistent with other customers as we eavesdropped exclamation of "oishii" from nearby tables too!

All in all, every aspect i.e. soup, noodles and toppings is exceptional standalone; while at the same time, they were able to complement one another in this excellent bowl of Onomichi Ramen.

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Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館
広島県尾道市土堂2丁目9-26
Operating hours: 1100 - 1900 hrs; closed on Fridays
http://www.f-ichibankan.com/

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Approx. 15 mins walk from Onomichi JR Station.

(2) By bus. Board any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). Approx 5 mins walk from here to Ichibankan.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Senkoji Temple 千光寺, Senkoji Koen 千光寺公園

Visited 18.04.2015 (Sat) 

View from the observatory of Senkoji Koen. Imagine how beautiful it will look like if the trees are decorated by blooming sakura flowers during the spring season!

Best view! On Day 3, we crossed the prefecture border from Okayama to Hiroshima, to visit Onomichi, a city located along Seto Inland Sea. First, we arrived at the foot of Mt Senkoji to board the ropeway heading towards Senkoji Park. Here in the park, there is an observatory where a panoramic view of Seto Inland Sea, the water body separating Onomichi city from the nearby islands, can be clearly captured on a good day. During the season of spring, visitors are welcomed by blooming cherry blossom trees which looked incredibly beautiful when seen from an altitude. Unfortunately, we came slightly after this alluring season and missed this spectacular scenery. What made up for this disappointment was that sakura flavoured soft serve was still available for sale here at the observatory!

Observatory. A restaurant is housed on the second level. Bought my sakura flavoured soft serve from the stall on ground level. 

A narrow waterway between Onomichi city and Mukoujima.

Made our way to Senkoji Temple via the kilometre long Path of Literature. 

And it gets even better! After satisfying our sweet tooth with soft serve cones, we followed the Path of Literature (文学のこみち), a pathway where boulders with poems engraved on them are scattered on both sides, and made our way to Senkoji Temple which is located just a few minutes walk away. Onomichi city has a total of 25 temples scattered in the different parts of the town and Senkoji Temple is the most well known of them all. Built in 806, Kannon-sama (otherwise known as the Goddess of Mercy) is worshiped here. Apart from being a place of worship, the striking vermilion coloured main hall of Senkoji Temple is an excellent observatory to capture a picturesque view of the surroundings! Was there at the right time to spot a train commuting along the Sanyo main line. From here, you can even see Onomichi Ohashi 尾道大橋, a bridge connecting Onomichi city to Mukoujima 向島. Shimanami Kaido しまなみ海道, which spans along Onomichi Ohashi, is a 60 km road which connects the main island of Honshu to Shikoku passing through six other smaller islands.

Under-rated. Personally I will recommend taking the ropeway up to Senkoji Park and descend by foot after visiting Senkoji Temple. Along the way down to the foot of Mt Senkoji, you will be able to see pagoda with exquisite architecture, pay a visit to other temples or even venture into artistic alleys such as Neko no Hosomichi (猫の細みち). In fact, I feel that Onomichi is a bit under-rated and has a lot more to offer. This is definitely one place that I will love to visit again!

The bell tower. On New Year's Eve, the bell will be sounded 108 times as locals usher in the new year. 

The main hall of Senkoji Temple, which is also an excellent observatory of Onomichi city. 

Most visitors will end up spending some time on this main hall of Senkoji Temple to admire the panoramic surroundings!

Can you spot both the train and Onomichi Ohashi?

The unusually round boulder located on the top of the rock structure is named Tama no iwa (玉の岩).

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Senkoji Temple 千光寺
広島県尾道市東土堂町１５－１
Operating hrs: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Free admission

http://www.senkouji.jp/

How to get there?

(1) Senkoji-san Ropeway 千光寺山ロープウェイ
Operating hours: 0900 - 1715 hrs
One way = 320 yen; Return trip = 500 yen
http://onomichibus.jp/ropeway/index.php

There are two ways to get to Senkoji-san Ropeway (千光寺山ロープウェイ), either by foot (which takes approximately 15 minutes) or take any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Onomichi Bus Terminal Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). There is a bus departing from this platform almost every 10 to 15 minutes, making bus a convenient option to get to the ropeway station located at the foot of the mountain.
Fee (from Onomichi ekimae to Nagae guchi) = 140 yen

Upon exiting from the terminus station at the summit, you will first reach Senkoji Koen where the observatory is located in. Senkoji Temple is about 10 minutes walk from here.

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Commemorative stamps:

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Onomichi JR Station 尾道駅, Onomichi Hondori 尾道本通り

Onomichi JR Station (尾道駅) is a train station located along Sanyo main line and is the gateway to Senkoji (千光寺), a historic temple which has been around since 806 and Kannon is being worshipped here. Due its elevated position on a mountain slope, the main hall became a popular destination to capture a panoramic view of Onomichi city and Seto Inland Sea.

This train station is only served by local trains and the fastest way to get to here from either Okayama or Hiroshima is as follows:
- from Okayama, board Kodama on Sanyo Shinkansen line heading for Hakata, alight at Fukuyama 福山駅 and transfer to local train.
- from Hiroshima, board Kodama on Sanyo Shinkansen line heading for Shin Osaka, alight at Mihara 三原駅 and transfer to local train.

Onomichi Tourism Association: https://www.ononavi.jp/index.html

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus Terminal, about a minute walk from the train station. Upon exiting from the train station, turn right and the bus terminal will be within sight.
- There are two ways to get to Senkoji-san Ropeway (千光寺山ロープウェイ), either by foot (which takes approximately 15 minutes) or take any Onomichi Bus (尾道バス) from Platform 1 and alight at Nagae guchi (長江口). There is a bus departing from this platform almost every 10 to 15 minutes, making bus a convenient option to get to the ropeway station located at the foot of the mountain.
Fee (from Onomichi ekimae to Nagae guchi) = 140 yen

Senkoji-san Ropeway: http://www.onomichibus.jp/ropeway/
Onomichi Bus schedule: http://onomichibus.jp/route-bus/timesch-bstop.php

(2) Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street 尾道本通り, about five minutes walk from the train station.
The entire stretch of Onomichi Hondori is about 1.2 km long and is completely sheltered. Such covered walkway where shop houses lined the sides of the street is actually quite a common sight encountered in Japan. One major concern pertaining to these streets is the decline in patrons (especially foreigners) over the years. Especially in smaller cities/towns, many of these shop houses have ceased operations and is in need of revitalisation to survive in the modern days. In recent trips, it is heartening to see signs of improvements which are brought about by younger entrepreneurs choosing to set up their businesses here, injecting life to these hushed shopping streets.

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After visited Senkoji and had Onomichi Ramen at Ichibankan (尾道ラーメン壱番館) for lunch, we made our way to the shopping street, heading towards the direction of Onomichi JR Station.

Yu-Yu- (ゆーゆー): This is a building which will grab anyone's attention while strolling along the street. Formerly a communal bathhouse, which has been around for more than a century since the Meiji era, Yu-Yu retains most of the features inside out even after being converted into a cafe and shop. Take for example the two doors to Yu-Yu-, these were previously the entrances to the male and female bathhouses. Though we did not patronise both the cafe and shop in the end, we found many people like us walking into the building, trying to identify and relate to the various nostalgic elements/details which were left behind by the olden days. 

Opening hrs: 1100 - 1700 hrs; closed on Thursdays.



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Bakery Koro (パン屋航路): In general, Onomichi Hondori was pretty quiet on the day of our visit but there was one shop which was unexpectedly packed with patrons. Our noses led us towards this modern looking shop where an aromatic scent of freshly baked bread was continuously coming from it. Bakery Koro focuses and is particular about dough formation as it aims to create more wholesome tasting bread. There is a huge varieties of bread to choose from; could not resist the temptation and decided to join the crowd. Because it was freshly delivered out from the oven, the crispy crusted bread was soft on the inside with well distributed air pockets. One hidden gem uncovered!
Opening hrs: 0700 till all the bread is sold out for the day (~1800 hrs); closed on Thursdays and Fridays.
Website: https://www.facebook.com/%E3%83%91%E3%83%B3%E5%B1%8B%E8%88%AA%E8%B7%AF-1571256129768935/

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Onomichi Hondori website: http://www.okaimonomichi.com/shop/index.htm

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Commemorative stamp:

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Day 3 Onomichi 尾道, Hiroshima 広島

Day 3: 18.04.2015

* Day 3 of 7 Days Sanyo & San'in Area Pass 

Onomichi City

Breakfast: Toyoko Inn Okayama Eki Nishi Guchi Hiroba 東横イン岡山駅西口広場

Okayama JR 岡山駅 (0825 hrs) > Fukuyama JR 福山駅 (0841 hrs)
by Hikari ひかり 491.

Fukuyuma JR 福山駅 (0849 hrs) > Onomichi JR 尾道駅 (0910 hrs)
by local train.

Onomichi Eki Bus Stop 1 > Nagae guchi 長江口
by Onomichi Bus. [140 yen]

One way Mt Senkouji Ropeway 千光寺山ロープウェイ. [280 yen]

Visited:
- Senkoji Koen Observation Platform 千光寺公園展望台
- Senkoji Temple 千光寺
http://www.senkouji.jp/

Lunch: Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan 尾道ラーメン壱番館

Visited Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street 尾道本通り.

Onomich JR 尾道駅 > Mihara JR 三原駅
by local train

Sentouchi Marine View Train

Mihara JR 三原駅 (1325 hrs) > Hiroshima JR 広島駅 (1607 hrs)
by Sentouchi Marine View #2

Hiroshima Ekimae 広島駅前 > Genbaku Dome Mae 原爆ドーム前
by Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車. [160 yen] *Fare increased to 180 yen

Visited:
- Genbaku Dome 原爆ドーム
- Peace Memorial Park 平和記念公園

Dinner: Bought bread from Andersen (Main Shop).

Hondori 本通り > Hiroshima Ekimae 広島駅前
by Hiroshima Electric Railway 広島電鉄電車. [160 yen] *Fare increased to 180 yen

Hiroshima 広島駅 (1917 hrs) > Okayama JR 岡山駅 (1952 hrs)
by Nozomi のぞみ 60.

- End of Day 3 -

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Cafe Honmachi 喫茶ほんまち

Visited 17.04.2015

Right: Cafe Honmachi is loacted on the second floor.

Was flipping through this local magazine featuring the sights, sounds and food in Okayama when I was in Cafe Antenna on Day 1. A picture of an adorable latte art from one cafe caught my attention and sparked my interest to pay this cafe a visit if time permits on the next 3 days. The cafe is not remotely located, in fact just nearby Okayama JR Station.

Managed to fork out some time on Day 2 night to visit this cafe after a day trip to Kurashiki. With the help of GPS, we came to a row of shop houses but could not spot any prominent sign board from the cafe. After walking up and down that same row of shop houses at least once, my eye finally caught sight of this small board supported on a stool. This board was placed just in front of the flight of stairs leading to the second floor of a shop house unit - and yes, that was Cafe Honmachi's. For a moment, I hesitated whether I should go up because it fell short of my expectation in terms of appearance. Crossed my fingers and made my way up in the end.

Place was small with only one person attending to the entire cafe. Cafe could only occupy less than 15 diners - 2 to 3 small tables, some seats faced the window and wall and a few counter seats. The cafe allows diners to smoke, therefore the lingering tobacco smell in the enclosure could be uncomfortable for non-smokers (including us). With the thought that we would only just stay here for a short while and happened that there was a table (facing the wall) available, we decided to settle down and put up with the smell.

Delicious club sandwiches!

Cafe serves light snacks, drinks and desserts. Ordered two different types of club sandwiches and drinks to go with the food. Took some time for the food and drinks to come as he had to take on multiple roles - the waiter, barista, cook and cashier, yet still maintains his composure and control food quality as he completes the orders in a comfortable way. Fresh lettuce and tomatoes, tender chicken and moist scrambled eggs stuffed between fragrant black sesame toasts - loved how the various flavours came together harmoniously and this is definitely one of the best sandwiches I have eaten in my life. The BLT was equally good, with that pinch of heat (black pepper) emerged in the mouth as you take a bite into the sandwich.

Coffee was the main reason that brought me here and I must say it did not disappoint at all. Mocha, served in delicate English cups and saucer, came with a very nice latte art depicting a rabbit holding a heart, which will definitely bring a smile to any diner who receives the drink. Not only the cup of mocha looked nice, it tasted very good as well - very smooth and well-balanced in all aspects.

My cup of cafe mocha.

All the positive critics that I have gathered on the food and drinks diverted my attention away from the disturbing tobacco smell lingering in my surrounding. Glad to have come to this place after all! 

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Cafe Honmachi 喫茶 ほんまち
岡山県 岡山市北区 本町 2-22 錦ビル 2F
Opening hrs: 1100 - 2400 hrs (Last order: 2300 hrs)
Approx 3 mins walk from Okayama JR Station

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Momotaro no Karakuri Museum 桃太郎のからくり博物館

Visited 17.04.2015 (Fri)

Story of Momotaro. The story of Momotaro, a famous Japanese folktale, is said to have originated from Okayama. I actually do recall watching cartoons (and even movie) adapted from the story of Momotaro when I was a child. It was about a kid who was born out of a gigantic peach and therefore named Momotaro and his heroic act to save villagers from ogres that were plaguing their homeland. In Okayama Prefecture, you can find Momotaro represented in various forms of media; the most prominent one being the statue located just in front of Okayama JR Station. A museum dedicated to this legendary folktale resides in Kurashiki city, within the Bikan district. Made our way here after the canal boat ride to relive our childhood memories of Momotaro.

Side notes:
- Found out later that the movie I watched when I was a kid was a Mandarin movie named "The Child of Peach" produced in Taiwan and was first screened in 1987.
- An excellent pictorial representation of the folktale: https://www.okayama-japan.jp/cms/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/momotaro_en.pdf

Trick eye. Occupying a two storey traditional storehouse, Momotaro no Karakuri Museum actually appeals more to the younger audience. Upon entering the museum, a staff led us through the game facilities set up at various corners of the room, explaining/demonstrating to us how the games should be played. To me, the place felt like a mini trick eye museum, where most of them are visual illusion games. Apart from that, the museum also displayed an extensive collection of books, pictures, videos, toys featuring Momotaro that were published/produced over the years. Here, you can find books translated into numerous languages which are and can be enjoyed by/passed down to future generations. There is a mini theatre where visitors can sit down to enjoy nostalgic cartoons on the adventures of Momotaro and his comrades.

Regardless of age, I am pretty sure you will be amused by the visual illusion games played here!

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Momotaro no Karakuri Museum 桃太郎のからくり博物館
倉敷市本町5-11
Operating hours: 1000 - 1700 hrs
Entrance fee = 600 yen
https://www.kurashiki-tabi.jp/see/193/

How to get there? 

(1) By foot. Museum is located within Kurashiki Bikan district 倉敷美観地区; approximately 10 minutes walk from Kurashiki JR Station.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Miyake Shouten 三宅商店

Visited 17.04.2015 (Fri)

Sense of nostalgia. Located in Kurashiki Bikan District (倉敷美観地区), Miyake Shouten was built in the later years of Edo period and was once a sundry shop. Now it has been converted into a cafe with most of its original features retained/preserved. Upon stepping into Miyake Shouten, you will be greeted by a strong nostalgic ambience within the cafe. Aged wooden structures and furnishing, elevated platform with low tables and cushions as seats, these are some features are typically seen in traditional Japanese houses. Also noticed that there was a table located at the end of the house which looked outwards to a small garden compound - a good hideout to hang out with friends over a meal or drink.

Curry rice & parfait paradise. For lunch, Miyake Shouten serves only curry rice as their main course. The set comprises of curry, cooked using seasonal ingredients, served with brown rice, tsukemono (pickles) and soup. Curry gravy was very flavourful and moderately spicy, accompanied with greens, slices of potato and fried lotus root and all of us like it a lot. We ordered the curry set (available on weekdays) which came with a small dessert and drink (coffee/tea). Dessert served on the day of my visit was chiffon cake and a scoop of ice-cream, which was an extremely satisfying way to wrap up the entire lunch course. If you are a parfait lover, you will not want to miss their exciting line-up of flavours offered all year round! Okayama Prefecture being a kingdom of fruits, the parfaits in Miyake Shouten are created using seasonal fruits and will definitely satisfy any sweet tooth.

Washi tape fever! Anyone here is a fan of scrapbooking? If you are, MT washi tape will surely be found in your toolkit. During my spare time, I do some simple scrap booking and washi tape has always been such an easy-to-use material for any of my scrap booking project. In fact, Kurashiki is where MT washi tape originated from! In Miyake Shouten, there is a corner dedicated to these washi tape and the collection which is put up for sale here will make any washi tape lovers spoilt for choice. Having said that, there are actually many other shops in Kurashiki Bikan District which carry this brand of washi tape, so do keep a lookout for them as well while spending a leisure afternoon strolling in this area.

Look at the collection of MT washi tape!

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Miyake Shouten 三宅商店
岡山県倉敷市本町3-11
Opening hrs: http://www.miyakeshouten.com/access/index.html
About 10 mins walk from Kurashiki JR Station.
http://www.miyakeshouten.com/