Visited 23.11.2014 (Sun)
Number of castles visited to date: 4
Top 100 castles in Japan: #84
Original. Second castle visited during this trip. This was a last minute insertion and the last sightseeing spot visited before we headed for Kochi Airport to return home. Though we were almost on the verge of dragging our aching feet while climbing multiple flight of stairs to reach the castle keep/tenshukaku, the panoramic view seen from the highest point of the castle made everything worthwhile and concluded our holiday on a high note! As Kochi Castle is one of the twelve castles which has their original tenshukaku retained, it is a precious historical asset being painstakingly preserved by the locals for many future generations to appreciate.
Left: A two storey gate named Tsumemon 詰門 serves as corridor between Honmaru and Ninomaru. The invincible stone walls formed the base of Honmaru.
Tsumemon and Ninomaru (the second citadel) seen from Tenshukaku.
Highlights / Background:
- Construction of castle begun on Mt Otakasa 大高坂山 in 1601. Honmaru 本丸 (the main citadel) and the stone walls of Ninomaru 二ノ丸 (the second citadel) were completed by 1603. Mt Otakasa was renamed as Mt Kochi. In 1611, Sannomaru 三ノ丸 (the third citadel) completed construction and the castle was mostly completed by then.
View on the east side. Building with the red roof on the left is Kochi Literary Museum 高知県立文化館. The building which has a gable roof and residing behind Kochi Literary Museum is a church.
Look down and you will find Shachi (鯱), an ornament depicting a mystical animal which has the head of a tiger and body of a carp, attached onto the roof.
Spotted the mystical Shachi again!
- A large fire broke out in the castle town in 1727 and it destroyed most of the castle structure except for Otemon Gate 追手門. Reconstruction efforts kick started in 1729 and restoration of castle tower, watch towers and gates were completed in 1749.
View on the west side. Love the sight of overlapping mountainous ranges in the background.
Everyone want a piece of this picturesque scenery!
- In 1874, Kochi Castle was opened to public as a park. In 1934, Kochi Castle was designated as a National Treasure; and redesignated as Important Cultural Property in 1950.
- Kochi Castle celebrated momentous 400th anniversary in 2001.
Peeking through the opened window - a strong contrast exists between this historical landmark and surrounding modern structures.
Within the tenshukaku, there is a detailed miniature model portraying how Kochi Castle looked like in the past. Apart from being an excellent observatory, the tenshukaku also serves as a historical museum shedding light into the lives of people in the past.
Tenshukaku has been in existence for close to 300 years after its rebuilt in 1749. Standing at 18.5 m tall, it is made up of three storey externally and six storey internally.
======
Kochi Castle 高知城
〒780-0850 高知市丸ノ内一丁目２番１号
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs; last entry at 1630 hrs
Closed between 26 Dec to 1 Jan. http://kochipark.jp/kochijyo/
How to get there?
(1) By Tosaden / Tosa Electric Railway streetcar どさでん電車.
Board the streetcar at Kochi Ekimae 高知駅前 and alight at Harimayabashi はりまや橋. Ttransfer to another streetcar heading for Kagamigawa bashi 鏡川橋/Asakura 朝倉/Ino 伊野 and alight at Kochi-jo mae 高知城前
(2) By foot. It takes about 25 minutes to walk from Kochi JR Station.
======
Commemorative stamps:
======
Video: Kochi Castle was featured in Taiwan produced travelogue program.
Familiarity. Made a last minute decision to visit this place on the last day in Shikoku. Anpanman Museum definitely did not emerged top in my list of attractions to visit, even so for my parents who have not come across Anpanman before. Throughout our stay in Shikoku, the images of this adorable character and his friends have infiltrated into our lives subtly. On this island, we rode on a series of Anpanman themed trains, shopped for Anpanman related merchandises and ate bread depicting the characters in this popular anime. Subconsciously, I felt like I have known this character enough over the last few days and wanted very much to visit Anpanman Museum, located right in the place where the creator of Anpanman, Takashi Yanase, grew up in. The thought eventually gave rise to this late insertion into my itinerary.
Not only a museum but a themepark! As soon as I exited from Tosa Yamada JR Station, it felt like I have breezed into a Anpanman themepark. Kami city information center, which stood right outside the train station, was surrounded by Anpanman and his companions. I was warmly welcomed by the staff from the information center and she eagerly demonstrated to me the features of this melodious Anpanman clock hung on the wall. Even the buses which run the route to Anpanman Museum, are colourfully wrapped with the cartoon characters. That is not the end. More Anpanman can be found in the interior such as ceiling and seats, to accompany all passengers on the joyous journey to the museum.
======
Highlights
Priceless gift. Anpanman Museum is located in Kami city, tucked away in the countryside, surrounded by hills. On a personal note, I felt that the location of Anpanman Museum is what makes this attraction worthy a visit. In front of the museum is a large open field with playground facilities for kids to run around tirelessly and happily. This is truly a wonderful place for parents to spend quality time together with their children while coming closer to nature. Hearing the infectious laughter of children is doubtlessly a priceless gift to all parents. There are two statues of Anpanman and Giant Dadandan (constructed in a way that they were in a fight) standing right outside the main building. Pay attention to the top right hand corner of the building and you may find Anpanman waving at you from there!
Giant Dadandan statue.
Anpanman is everywhere!
There is plentiful details at different corners of Anpanman museum for visitors to uncover:
- The glass storage room displaying an exhaustive range of Anpanman character goods/merchandises introduced over the years.
- Stay tuned for the hide-and-seek tree near the entrance; a huge mechanical wall clock in which Anpanman characters will appear from the tree hourly.
- Named Anpanman World (アンパンマンワールド), a miniature model replicating the world where Anpanman and his companion existed in is showcased in the basement floor. Visitors get to "sneak" into Uncle Jam's bakery too, where you can find a variety of bread replicas (which are in fact the "heads" of many superheroes that appeared in the popular anime).
Top right: Hide-and-seek tree; Bottom right: Anpanman's world.
- My favourite spot goes to Yanase Takashi Gallery is located on the fourth floor. Huge paintings of Anpanman and his companions in various themes, precious draft versions of drawings and comic strips were displayed in this art gallery. The pictures were beautifully drawn and it is hard not to express excitement while deciphering the meaning behind these drawings. I like this particular drawing which depicted Anpanman sacrificing a small portion of his head to a hungry and stranded rabbit. Despite photo taking is allowed in the museum, it is hard to capture shots of these pictures/drawings because of the reflection created by the glass frames. If you like any of the pictures/drawings, do head down to the shop located on the first floor as the art works are available in postcard forms for visitors to send back home! Apart from that, there are also exclusive merchandises released by the museum sold in the shop here.
Beautiful paintings of Anpanman characters in Yanase Takashi Gallery; Top right: Bought a postcard featuring my favourite drawing from the museum shop.
- The ticket includes entrance to Poem and Märchen Gallery (詩とメルヘン絵本館) housed in a separate building on the opposite road. This exhibition hall displays all of Yanase Takashi's artworks which were previously published in Shitomeruhen (Poem and Märchen) magazine.
- Stone statues of Anpanman characters are put up in various spots in surrounding compound as well, making them wonderful photo taking spots for kids.
- To my surprise, there is no cafe/restaurant within the museum. The nearest cafeteria is found in Nirounosato (韮生の里), a local product and souvenir shop located a stone throw away from the museum.
Nirounosato (韮生の里), located just in front of Anpanman Museum.
======
Anpanman Museum アンパンマンミュージアム
〒781-4212 高知県香美市香北町美良布1224-2 http://anpanman-museum.net/
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1700 hrs; 0900 - 1700 hrs (20 Sep - 31 Aug). Last entry at 1630 hrs.
Admission fee: 700 yen (adult); 500 yen (child)
Pasar Pagi. Whenever I visit my grandmother in Gemencheh (a small town in Negri Sembilan, Malaysia) over a weekend, Pasar Pagi (means morning market) which are held on Sundays, is one place we will head down to after breakfast. I am always roused by the high energy levels of locals bustling throughout the entire stretch of road lined with makeshift stalls selling fresh produce, cooked food, etc. Even though we went home empty handed most of the time, participating in this routine morning activity brings me closer to the local culture/way of life. Therefore, I was intrigued to visit Kochi's version of morning market upon hearing about it. To meet this objective, I made plans to return back to Kochi city on a Saturday in order to visit the morning market on the following day.
Good morning Kochi! After our breakfast at 7 Days Hotel, we did a leisure stroll to Otesuji (追手筋) where Nichiyobi shi is held. A 1.3 km long road from Otesuji 1-chome to Otemon of Kochi Castle is cordoned off and about 430 stalls lined both sides of the road every Sunday. Felt like a child all over again; excited and fascinated by the huge variety of goods on sale; lots of crisp greens, neatly arranged juicy fruits, surprisingly fragrant preserved/dried goods, fresh fishes, colourful potted plants, daily necessities and list goes on. Along the way, high spirited stall owners would exchange greetings with patrons, shout out catchy slogans to promote the products that they were selling. Keep a lookout for snack stalls selling Kochi's very own aisukurin アイスクリン (not the same katakana for ice-cream アイスクリーム) which tastes closer to flavoured shaved ice, freshly fried imoten いも天 (sweet potatoes), piping hot steamed buns, freshly squeezed yuzu drinks and many many more. Stopped by the stalls every now and then, curious to see what was in store, with hands full of snacks even though I was still full from breakfast. There were also many occasions when we contemplated grabbing some vegetables/fruits back home because they all looked so fresh and good. Eventually my parents could not resist the temptation and lug back a big bag of sweet potatoes! Though it proved to be feat for us as we had to carry the bulky bag from the market to our next two attractions (Anpanman Museum and Kochi Castle) before returning to hotel to retrieve our luggage, my parents gave their proud thumbs up for the taste. If you are visiting Kochi city on a Sunday, you should not give this a miss!
Have to try fried sweet potatoes (imoten), a soul food for the locals here in Kochi.
Sakamoto Ryoma vs Anpanman!
Let's visit the markets everyday!
In fact, there are equivalent makeshift markets but much smaller in scale held on other days at different locations in Kochi city.
- Tuesdays (火曜市): held along Kamimachi 4-chome to 5-chome (上町４丁目・５丁目).
Operating hours: 0600 hrs to 1 hour before sunset How to get there? Take Tosaden streetcar and alight at Kamimachi 4 chome station (上町４丁目駅).
- Thursdays (木曜市): held in front of Kochi city Government Building (高知県庁前).
Operating hours: Sunrise to 1 hour before sunset How to get there? Take Tosaden streetcar and alight at Kencho mae station (県庁前駅).
- Fridays (金曜市): held along Atagomachi 1-chome (愛宕町１丁目).
Operating hours: Sunrise to 1 hour before sunset How to get there? Approx 15 mins walk from Kochi JR Station.
Website (in Japanese): http://www.city.kochi.kochi.jp/soshiki/40/gairoitigaid.html
- Saturdays: Organic Market (オーガニックマーケット), first started in 2008, is held at Ike Koen (池公園). Got to know about this market from the owner of Terzo Tempo.
Operating hours: 0800 - 1400 hrs on Saturdays How to get there? At Kochi JR Station, board MY Yu Bus (MY遊バス) heading for Katsurahama and alight at Sumiyoshi ike mae (住吉池前).
Website (in Japanese): http://kochiom.web.fc2.com/info.html
MY Yu Bus: https://www.attaka.or.jp/kanko/kotsu_mybus.php
(1) By foot. 10 - 15 minutes walk from Kochi JR Station.
(2) By streetcar. Alight at Hasuikemachidori Station 蓮池町通駅; Otesuji 1-chome (追手筋) is less than 5 minutes walk away.
======
Video. Fast forward to 2:20 for Go Go Japan's feature on Nichiyoubi shi.
Left and safe kept our luggage with 7 Days Hotel Plus on Day 6 (Tues) and returned on Day 10 (Sat) to retrieve our luggage. Decided to try out 7 Days Hotel on our last night in Shikoku, located a few blocks away. Even though both hotels are under the same company, they are not connected by any private walkway.
Design & Facilities. Being the older one out of the two, this hotel has similar minimalist concept as the newer 7 Days Plus Hotel. Following a conventional no frills business hotel operating philosophy, 7 Days Hotel has this additional homely touch in my perspective. Simple yet modern furniture selection are what I will like to have in my own room. As there are no twin room available here, two adjacent rooms will be combined if you are opting for two beds - and you get two bathrooms for such adjoining room arrangement. In my opinion, both hotels are equally good. One other difference between both hotels is that 7 Days Hotel serves only continental breakfast (bread and drink) and does not offer Japanese style breakfast option.
======
What's nearby?
(1) Nichiyoubi Market (Sunday Market) 日曜市. Approx 7 mins walk from hotel, this Sunday local market occupies the road that stretches from Haisuike-machi-dori tram stop to Kochi Castle. Lined with booths selling mainly local produce and specialties, the Sunday Market operates as early at 0500 hrs and is one way to get in touch with the local people and culture. Made my way leisurely to the market after breakfast on my last day in Shikoku. Strolled down the road to see what every stall has to offer and stopped every now to enjoy some of the local snacks.
Pudding from Pousser.
(2) Boulangerie Pousser ブーランジュりー プウセ.
Opening hrs: 0700 - 1900 hrs
A French bakery located just behind 7 Days Hotel Plus, recommended to me by the owner of Terzo Tempo cafe. Did pop by the bakery before we boarded the airport transfer bus to Kochi Ryoma Airport. This bakery is quite a popular with the locals as most of the items were sold out when we were there in the late afternoon. Bought a few breads and a pudding to try and the experience was delectable.
Train fan! I am always on a lookout for unique themed trains whenever I visit Japan. In Shikoku, we managed to cover Yu Yu Anpanman Car (from Takamatsu to Tokushima) and Tetsudo Hobby Train (from Kubokawa to Uwajima). The finale of this trip was Iyonada Monogatari (伊予灘ものがたり), one of the newest themed train introduced by JR Shikoku in July 2014, commuting along the scenic sea view section of Yosan line (予讃線海まわり).
Iyonada Monogatari is only in operation on weekends and public holidays and there are four train services per day.
(1) Ozu route (大洲編) from Matsuyama to Iyo Ozu, operates in the morning.
(2) Futami route (双海編) from Iyo Ozu to Matusyama, operates in the late morning.
(3) Yawatahama route (八幡浜編) from Matsuyama to Yawatahama, operates in the afternoon.
(4) Dogo route (道後編) from Yawatahama to Matsuyama, operates in the evening.
Highlights: Strategy. Planned to take the train on the second weekend of our trip in order to stand a better chance to secure the tickets. As themed sightseeing train rides are especially popular with locals, tickets are rapidly sold out as soon as they are released approximately one month before departure date. Checked the seat availability status online every now and then and discovered that more popular routes (Yawatahama and Dogo) were already sold out before we stepped foot onto Shikoku. Had to reshuffle my itinerary to accommodate Futami route (from Iyo Ozu to Matsuyama) and was jubilant when I got hold of the tickets at Takamatsu JR Station on my very first day in Shikoku.
As all seats on board Iyonada Monogatari are green reserved seats, a 980 yen top up is required with All Shikoku Rail Pass. Decided to enjoy the exclusive bento set meal, which was specially created for this train, on board, therefore parted another 4,500 yen to purchase a meal voucher during seat reservation. At this point of time, all reservations have to be made in person at train stations or by phone.
Grand entrance. We waited eagerly for the arrival of Iyonada Monogatari at Iyo Ozu Station. Door carpets, with the symbol of Iyonada Monogatari imprinted on them, were placed on the station platform. Instead of the conventional voiceover over the public announcement system to inform passengers of train station, music was played instead as the train gradually pulled into the station and eventually came to a complete stop with the train doors accurately positioned in front of the carpets! Attendants with an elegant poise awaited beside the doors, warmly welcoming passengers to board the train.
Exquisite design. Iyonada Monogatari is made up of two carriages, each beautifully wrapped in red and orange colours respectively, to depict a sunset scenery at the coastline of Iyonada Sea. Car 1 is Akane no sho (茜の章), which is translated as red chapter, while Car 2 is Ogon no sho (黄金の章), otherwise known as golden chapter. Wood was utilised extensively in the interior design of the train; from parquet flooring to furniture and other accessories, to create a traditional chic look. Single seats are oriented to face the train windows directly to allow passengers to come up close to Iyonada Sea as the train moves along the coastline. There are several tables set aside for group of two and four passengers. A counter is located in Car 2 where light snacks, drinks and souvenirs can be purchased. Products manufactured in Iyo region, the former name for Ehime Prefecture, decorated the display shelves. Even the basin was made of tobe ware (tobe-yaki 砥部焼), a type of traditional pottery which originated from Ehime Prefecture. For this trip, we were assigned to a table for four in Car 2. There is a decent range of original train souvenirs sold on board which made me spoilt for choice. My eyes eventually landed on a clear folder and a collar pin.
Station with a view. Shimonada (下灘駅) is a unmanned station located along the sea route of Yosan line. Standing at the platform of this small train station, one gets a panoramic overview of Iyonada Sea due its close proximity. Picture of Shimonada Station with Iyonada Sea in the background featured in Seishun 18 ticket (青春18きっぷ) posters led to its fame, attracting numerous train fans (including myself) and avid photographers to pay here a visit. Iyonada Monogatari makes a brief stop of 10 minutes for passengers to explore this famous train station. The main reason why Dogo route is the most popular among all four routes is the spectacular sunset view that passengers get to bask in during the train ride - an exact depiction of what this train is all about! As soon as the train reached the station, I alighted from the train and explored the area enthusiastically like a child playing with a new toy. The picture perfect view of Iyonada Sea with Iyonada Monogatari is truly one of my fond memories captured during this trip.
Extravagant bento box. About 30 mins to an hour later, the staff approached us for the meal voucher and served us each a tall, two tier box made out from Uchiko wood with the characters " 伊予灘ものがたり" beautifully engraved on the cover. Uncovered the bento box carefully and could not contain my excitement when I revealed the sumptuous contents. One tier was divided into four compartments while the other was divided into nine other compartments. Each compartment is artistically arranged with a unique dish. During this autumn period, the menu was crafted to feature the freshest ingredients harvested from rural settlements of Uchiko, an area in Ehime Prefecture. Apart from being visually stunning, some of these flavours were new and refreshing to my taste buds. Overall, very delicious and this is definitely the most extravagant bento meal I have ever eaten.
Bottom left: Grilled Iyo beef (内子産伊予牛の奉書焼)
Top left: Fried Uchiko pork in nanban sauce (内子豚南蛮揚げ)
Top left: Salmon wrapped with chrysanthemum flowers (サーモンの菊花卷)
Top center: Yam and boiled greens in bonito flavoured sauce海老芋の旨煮 菊菜と椎茸のおひたし
Top right: Baked Iyo chicken cake (伊予赤健美鶏の松風)
Center left: Scallion and clams salad (わけぎと蛤のぬた合え)
Center: Shitake mushroom and turban shell cooked with sesame and miso (椎茸と栄螺の胡麻味噌焼)
Center right: Vinaigrette shredded daikon and Uchiko produced persimmons (柿膾 内子産富有柿)
Bottom left: Mackeral wrapped with mushroom and vegetables. (鰆のけんちん焼 木の子 野菜)
Bottom center: Gelatin of chicken and prawn (海老と鶏のアスピック)
Bottom right: Lily bulb (花百合根密煮 アーモンドフラワー)
======
Iyonada Monogatari 伊予灘ものがたり http://iyonadamonogatari.com/
Train fares:
- Route (1) and (2) = 1,930 yen
- Route (3) and (4) = 2,260 yen
Bento set meal = 4,500 yen
======
