Sunday, September 11, 2016

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Sada Chinkabashi 佐田沈下橋

Visited 20.11.2014



Communication breakdown. My main objective in Shimanto was for Shimantogawa (Shimanto River). This 196 m long river stretches from the mountainous area to Pacific Ocean and is widely known as the last clear river in Japan because there are no dams constructed throughout its entire length. There are numerous ways to explore this river - through outdoor sports activities (such as kayaking), tour boats, cycling or driving alongside the river. Reached Shimanto on Day 7 and hired a sightseeing taxi to ferry us to the southernmost point of Shikoku - Ashizuri. Tried my best to communicate to my driver (in mixture of English, Japanese and hand gestures) to bring us to at least one "chinkabashi" (otherwise known as sinking bridge) along Shimanto River after visiting Cape Ashizuri. He did not understand my intent and brought us back to the hotel instead. By the time we arrived at the hotel, it was already close to sunset and I made a decision to hire the same taxi driver to fetch us from the hotel early next morning to visit Sada Chinkabashi before heading for Nakamura Station.


Short encounter. There are about 47 chinkabashi crossings scattered throughout Shimanto River. My first impression of these narrow features was that they looked unsafe without any parapets (low walls/railings at both sides of the road). In fact, they are designed not to have parapets to prevent them from being washed away when these bridges look like they have sunken during periods of high tide. Our taxi driver brought us to Sada, the chinkabashi nearest from the hotel (Nakamura Prince Hotel) and Nakamura Station and also the longest crossing (291.6 m) along Shimanto River. Spent a while to walk on the bridge, carefully sitting on the edge to observe the clear waters streaming past below the bridge, soaking myself entirely into the laidback, natural surroundings. Though it was a short encounter, the alluring and scenic landscape made me want to visit this place again. Most importantly, to allocate more time to uncover more chinkabashi by other means such as boat ride or cycling on my next visit to Shimanto River.



Other Chinkabashi:

- Iwama Chinkabashi (岩間沈下橋). About 1 hour drive away/3 hours by cycling from Nakamura Station, this 120 m long bridge is frequently spotted in posters featuring Shimanto River.

- Katsuma Chinkabashi (勝間沈下橋). About 45 mins drive away/2 hours by cycling from Nakamura Station.

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Sada Chinkabashi 佐田沈下橋
20 mins drive away/50 mins by cycling from Nakamura Station.
Shimanto City Tourist Association Website: http://www.shimanto-kankou.com/
- Bicycles can be rented from Shimanto City Tourist Association Information Center.
- Boat rides, canoeing or kayaking: http://www.shimanto-kankou.com/doc/fune/fune.html
- Sightseeing bus (四万十川バス) operates between Nakamura Station and Ekawasaki Station on certain dates (typically on Fridays, weekends and public holidays). Refer to Shimanto City Tourist Association Website for more information. 


Shimanto City Tourist Association Information Center:

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Video: Scroll to 20:08 for feature of Shimanto River in 玩乐志.

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Day 8 Shimanto River 四万十川, Dogo Onsen 道後温泉

Day 8: 20.11.2014
* Day 5 of 5 days All Shikoku Rail Pass

Dogo Onsen Main Building
Breakfast: Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル

Visited Sada Chinkabashi 佐田沈下橋.

Nakamura Station 中村駅 (0924 hrs) > Kubokawa JR 窪川駅 (1002 hrs)
by Ltd Express Nanpu 12.

Kubokawa JR 窪川駅 (1004 hrs) > Uwajima JR 宇和島駅 (1217 hrs)
by Tetsudo Hobby Train 鉄道ホビートレイン.

Lunch: Hozumitei ほずみ亭

Uwajima JR Station 宇和島駅 (1359 hrs) > Matsuyama JR Station 松山駅 (1520 hrs)
by Ltd Express Uwakai 16.

Matsuyama ekimae 松山駅前 > Dogo Onsen 道後温泉駅
by Iyotetsu streetcar.

Check in: Funaya ふなや

Visited Dogo Shopping Street, Hojo Park and Dogo Onsen Honkan 道後温泉本館.

DinnerFunaya ふなや

- End of Day 8 - 

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Kisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち

Visited 19.11.2014 


Gourmet search. Apart from being the last clear river in Japan, Shimanto River is also a habitat for many marine life. These "treasures" of the river are eventually transformed to simple yet delicious gourmet dishes that the locals are proud of. In Shimanto, freshness is guaranteed, since it is harvested from the nearby river, and this is also the key element that brings out the best flavour of the food. There are many restaurants here offering local specialty dishes; dropped by Taniguchi as it was located near our hotel stay for the night (Nakamura Prince Hotel). Taniguchi is a family operated restaurant with a homely atmosphere that can felt almost immediately upon stepping in. Was handed over a Japanese menu but the waitress quickly passed us an English one after she knew that we were foreigners. Food ordering was effortless because pictures with descriptions were made available  in the menu too.

Top left: Deep fried river shrimps; Bottom left: Tempura seaweed; Bottom right: Deep fried goby fishes.
So what is the cuisine created from the freshest ingredients harvested from Shimanto River? Ordered a variety of dishes to find out:

  • Deep fried river shrimps (800 yen). These river shrimps have long arms, which reminded me of those we see in indoor prawn catching pools back at home. Shrimps are deep fried until crispy red to lock in and enhance the natural sweet flavours of the shrimps. Recommended for those who are fans of prawns like me. This was the first dish served and was great start to dinner.
  • Deep fried goby fish (800 yen). It was my first time eating goby fish. Did not find this dish particularly outstanding because I could not really make out the flavours of this ikan bilis sized fish in my mouth. Restaurant also served goby fishes cooked in other style such as soy sauce broiled, simmered with egg and vinegar marinated. In fact, the best time to savour goby fishes is in March when the goby fishing season starts. 
  • Tempura seaweed (750 yen). Known as Hitoegusa (ヒトエグサ), this type of seaweed is hand picked at the river mouth where fresh and salt waters merge. Cooked in the tempura style, I like the crunchy yet fluffy texture of the seaweed. Remember to soak the seaweed in the light dipping sauce which will help get rid some of the oiliness. Highly recommended for all to try!
  • Salt grilled ayu or sweet fish (1,500 yen). I have never eaten a failed salt grilled ayu fish so far in Japan. This is actually very good: salt rubbed and grilled till crispy golden brown; sweetness of the meat can be tasted with every bite.    
  • Grilled wild eel/unagi. Found this overly priced but decided to give it a try nevertheless. To me, what makes a good grilled eel is to ensure the right amount of time is given to disintegrate the fatty portion of the meat but not too overly done till the moisture of the meat is lost and the savory sauce that is swiped onto the meat during the process of grilling. This grilled unagi met my expectations in all aspects.  

Remember... Overall, the dining experience was pleasant. Apart from the delicious local cuisine, we received warm hospitality from the folks of Taniguchi throughout our stay. Despite the language barrier, they still maintained the same level of service and even tried to engage in a simple conversation with me just before we left. Sometimes, it is these simple acts of gesture that make you forget that you are in foreign country and a good reminder to myself to remain humble and sincere to people around me.

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Kisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち
高知県四万十市中村大橋通4-50
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1300 hrs, 1700 - 2200 hrs. Closed on Sundays.

How to get there?
(1) 15 mins walk from Nakamura Station
(2) 5 mins walk from Nakamura Prince Hotel

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル

Stayed 19.11.2014 (Wed)
Booked thru' Jalan.net.
- Twin Room = 10,300 yen
- Single Room = 5,600 yen


Challenge. Searched through various hotel booking portals but did not come across any familiar or popular business hotel chain in this rural town. Wanted to stay close to Shimanto River since that was my main objective here in Nakamura. Finally landed on Nakamura Prince Hotel as it met my criteria, both in terms of location and price. 

View of Shimanto River and Red Iron Bridge from room.
Twin sharing rooms from the 5th floor and above can enjoy a scenic view of Shimanto River and the symbolic Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋) right out of their windows. Just before dinner, we did an evening stroll from the hotel to the Red Iron Bridge to capture the tranquility of Shimanto River at sunset. Though not a subsidiary of an established brand, Nakamura Prince Hotel follows the typical business hotel model both in terms of service provided and facilities available. Selected the package without breakfast, but after scrutinizing the nearby area for possible eateries that open for business in the day, I could not find any except for a 24 hours operation convenience store (Lawson) on the opposite side of the hotel. Decided to opt for the buffet breakfast service available in the hotel on the following day. Overall, Nakamura Prince Hotel is comparable to most budget business hotels I have bunked in before in bigger cities. Though I did encountered a hiccup during check out (only found out that I was over-charged after I left the hotel and had to return to get my money back), I will not mind returning to this hotel because of its convenient location.    

What's nearby? 

Evening stroll along Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋).
Calm waters in Shimanto River.
(1) Shimanto River and Red Iron Bridge (赤鉄橋). About 2 mins walk away from the hotel.

(2) Lawson convenience store, just opposite to the hotel. As it was still early after dinner, I decided to explore the area by walking from the hotel to Nakamura Station. It was slightly after 7 pm and the streets of Shimanto city was already very empty and quiet - was a bit wary as it seemed like I was the only pedestrian walking on the street. Glad that Lawson was there to satisfy my late night snack and drink needs!

(3) Eateries. Was afraid that I could not find any good eateries in the surrounding area but my worry was unnecessary. Managed to gather a handful of options, within walking distance, with pretty decent online reviews. On that night, we had a delicious array of Shimanto specialties for dinner in Taniguchi (季節料理たにぐち), which was just 5 minutes walk away from the hotel.

A quiet and pleasant Shimanto city. 
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Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル
〒787-0034 高知県四万十市中村弥生町4-1
http://www.np-h.com/

How to get there?
(1) Walk. 20 - 30 mins walk from Nakamura Station.

(2) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Sukumo (宿毛). Alight at Obashidori-nichome (大橋通二丁目), bus stop is just in front of the hotel. Bus journey takes 5 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf

(3) Taxi. About 5 mins drive away from Nakamura Station.

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Nakamura Station 中村駅


Nakamura Station (TK40) on Nakamura/Sukumo line.
Alight here to visit Shimanto River, the longest river in Shikoku is also referred as the last clear river in Japan because there are no dams constructed along the entire river.

JR Shikoku or Tosa Kuroshio Railway? Even though both Nakamura and Sukumo line are operated by Tosa Kuroshio Railway, limited express trains owned by JR Shikoku also serve the train stations along both lines. When these trains arrived at Kubokawa station, the interchange station between Dosan and Nakamura lines, there is a changeover of service crew between JR Shikoku and Tosa Kuroshio Railway. It is interesting to see a complete change in train conductor, dressed in a different uniform, and hear a different voice over the PA system after the train moves off from this station.


Award wining train station. Nakamura Station undergone a major renovation in 2010. The team (nextstations) behind this project wanted to redefine people's impression of a train station in a rural area. The interior was revitalised with a modern concept, using wood as the core material of construction. A sense of warmth, created by both the yellow lighting and natural lighting that shines in through the huge glass panels, can be felt in the waiting area. Such small interventions within an existing structure has expanded the space for people's movement, making it more passenger-friendly. The team has also won numerous design related awards for this project. This award winning design was featured in many magazines and the high recognition has attracted people to pay this train station a visit.

Apart from local trains, the following limited express trains serve Nakamura station.
(1) Limited Express Shimanto, which commutes between Takamatsu and Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.
(2) Limited Express Nanpu, which commutes between Okayama, Kochi and Nakamura.
(3) Limited Express Ashizuri, which commutes between Kochi, Nakamura and Sukumo.

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What's nearby?

(1) Bus stop, located in front of train station.
Board the bus covering Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo route (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線)
to visit Cape Ashizuri (足摺岬). Bus journey takes about 1 hr 40 mins.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/local/

(2) Tourist Information Center (Shimanto City Tourism Association), about 5 minutes walk from train station.
Walked to the tourist information center to arrange a sightseeing taxi to cover Cape Ashizuri with the assistance rendered by the staff on duty. One of the best way to explore Shimanto River and its bridges is by bicycles and the tourist information center here provides rental services as well.
Website: http://www.shimanto-kankou.com/ 


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Commemorative stamp:

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬

Visited 19.11.2014



Southernmost tip. Decided to hire a taxi to bring us from Nakamura to Tosa Shimizu (土佐清水), where Ashizurimisaki (otherwise known as Cape Ashizuri) is located. At this southernmost tip of Shikoku island, the terrain is made up of weathered granite cliffs, standing at 80 m high, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. A 18 m tall lighthouse here has been in operation since 1914, and the strong illumination emitted from the structure can be seen as far as 38 km away. Was fortunate to be blessed with good weather on the day of our visit; greeted by the cooling sea breeze as we stood at the observation platform to admire the glittering blue waters and clear horizon. Being able to view this spectacular scenery made the long and winding journey worthwhile.

Marker for the southermost point of Shikoku island.
A statue of Nakahama Manjiro (中濱 万次郎) erected here at Cape Ashizuri, who played an important role being a translator to foreigners in the final years of Edo period. 
Ashizurimisaki is actually part of the larger Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park (足摺宇和海国立公園). Other attractions in the vicinity include:
- Kongofuku-ji (金剛福寺), the 38th temple of Shikoku Pilgrimage.
- Hakusan Domon (白山洞門), a well defined hole (16 m tall by 17 m wide) penetrating through a huge slab of granite cliff, created through prolonged erosion by seawaters. Wanted very much to visit this natural formation but did not manage to do so due to some miscommunication with the taxi driver. If you are taking the same bus from Nakamura Station heading for Ashizurimisaki, alight at Shirao Jinja (白皇神社) which is one bus stop prior the terminus at Ashizurimisaki. If it is too taxing on the body to climb all the way down to view Hakusan Domon, you can head down to Manjiro Ashiyu (万次郎足湯), which is an observatory equipped with footbath!
- In fact, Ashizuri is a hot spring town discovered more than 1,200 years ago. Apart from the above mentioned Manjiro Ashiyu, there are a handful of hotels with hot spring facilities established in this area.
Ashizuri Onsen: http://www.ashizuri-onsen.com/



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Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬
http://www.shimizu-kankou.com/diarypro02/archives/127.html

How to get there? 
(1) Kochi Seinan Bus. From Nakamura Station (中村駅), take the Nakamura/Shimizu/Ashizuri/Sukumo line (中村・清水・足摺・宿毛線) bus heading for Ashizurimisaki, and alight at the last stop. Bus journey takes 1 hr 40 mins and cost 1,900 yen.
Bus schedule: http://www.kochi-seinan.co.jp/obj/pdf/local_sukumo-simizu.pdf

Shikoku Autumn 2014 四国秋季之旅 - Day 7 Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬, Shimanto 四万十

Day 7: 19.11.2014
* Day 4 of 5 days All Shikoku Rail Pass

Ashizurimisaki
Breakfast: Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉

Iya Onsen Wanoyado 和の宿ホテル祖谷温泉 > Oboke JR 大歩危駅
by hotel free shuttle service

Oboke JR 大歩危駅 (1037 hrs) > Nakamura Station 中村駅 (1324 hrs)
by Ltd Express Nanpu 3

Lunch: Ekiben, on board train

Visited Shimanto Tourist Information Centre to arrange 3 hours sightseeing taxi.

Ohki Beach
Visited:
(1) Ohki Beach 大岐の浜
(2) Ashizurimisaki 足摺岬
(3) Kongofuku-ji 金刚福寺

Check in: Nakamura Prince Hotel 中村プリンスホテル
http://www.np-h.com/

DinnerKisetsu Ryori Taniguchi 季節料理 たにぐち

- End of Day 7 -