Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 9 Itinerary: Beppu 别府

Day 9: 23.03.2014
* Day 2 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass

Chinoike Jigoku

Breakfast: Gettouan 月燈庵

Gettouan > Yufuin JR Station 由布院駅
by hotel free shuttle service.

Collected P roll from B-Speak.

Yufuin Bus Terminal (1015 hrs) > Beppu JR Station 別府駅 (1105 hrs)
by Bus 36. Fee = 900 yen.

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Bought 1 Day Mini Free Passport from tourist information center @ Beppu JR Station. Fee = 900 yen.

Beppu JR Station 別府駅 (1155 hrs) > Umi Jigoku mae 海地獄前
by Bus 41.

Bought Beppu Jigoku Meguri (別府地獄巡り) admission ticket, covering all eight "hells".
Fee = 1,800 yen (200 yen discount with 1 Day Passport).
* 2,100 yen effective from 1st April 2014 onwards.

(1) Yama Jigoku 山地獄
(2) Umi Jigoku 海地獄
(3) Oniishi bozu Jigoku鬼石坊地獄
(4) Oniyama Jigoku 鬼山地獄
(5) Kamado Jigoku かもど地獄
(6) Shiraike Jigoku 白池地獄

Kannawa Bus Terminal 鉄輪 > Chinoike Jigoku mae 血の池地獄前
by taxi (missed bus). Fee = ~800 yen.

(7) Chinoike Jigoku 血の池地獄
(8) Tatsumaki Jigoku 龍卷地獄

Chinoike Jigoku mae 血の池地獄前 (1419 hrs) > Beppu JR Station 別府駅
by Bus 16.

Beppu JR Station 別府駅 > Yufuin JR Station 由布院駅
by taxi (missed 1505 hrs bus to Yufuin bus terminal). Fee = 6,000 yen.

Mt Yufu from Sagiridai Overlook.

Stopover @ Sagiridai Overlook 狭霧台.

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Yufuin JR Station 由布院駅 (1707 hrs) > Kurume JR Station 久留米駅 (1846 hrs)
by Yufuin no mori 6.

Dinner: Ekiben, on board Yufuin no mori.

Kurume JR Station 久留米駅 (1854 hrs) > Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1914 hrs)
by Sakura 565.

Check in: Mitsui Garden Hotel Kumamoto 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Supper: MacDonalds @ Shimo Tori

- End of Day 9 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Gettouan ゆふいん月燈庵

Stayed 22.03.2014
Booked thru' Booking.com
- Standard suite = 54,000 yen (2 occupants)

As with every trip, I will try to arrange one day of luxurious accommodation. For this trip in Kyushu, it was Gettouan in Yufuin. As Yufuin is a hot spring town, numerous hotels and ryokan can be found around the main onsen street leading all the way to Kirinko. Decided to stay away from the heart of the town and chose to stay in the Gettouan, which is tucked away in a tranquil and remote environment. After spending an entire afternoon to explore Yufuin, we were looking forward a good night rest in Gettouan. For guests staying in the ryokan, complimentary pick up service to/fro Yufuin JR Station can be arranged in advance. Unfortunately, we had to grab a taxi as the pick up was fully booked for that day.

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Highlights:

Bottom left: Suspension bridge that links the main building and accommodation.

Service, room & facilities. First we were led to the bar counter where tea was served as we waited for check-in proceedings to be completed. A mandarin speaking staff was assigned to us, who inquired our desired timing for both dinner and breakfast on the next day and explained to us the facilities in Gettouan as he brought us to our room. The entire compound is actually much more bigger than it looks. In total, there are only 18 units within this 10,000 m3 site surrounded by lush greenery. From the main building, we had to cross a suspension bridge to reach the other highland where the rooms are located. Though the area may be huge, clear signs are put up to make sure guests do not lose their way here.

Bottom left: Communal bathhouse; Center: Private outdoor bath; Bottom right: Common area to enjoy complimentary coffee.

Reserved the standard suites (Yamabuki and Tsubaki) for tonight's stay. House is divided into two separate areas with 8 and 6 tatami mats respectively, and can occupy up to 4 person. Was delighted to see a kotatsu, a low table with heater beneath, which we tucked our legs into comfortably when the temperatures became colder at night. Every room in Gettouan is also equipped with an open air hot spring bath. Used it only once because temperature was less than 5 degC and the washing area was located outdoor as well - already felt terribly cold after washing up.

There is a common area where guests can relax to smoothing music, read a book while enjoying a cup of coffee - a good place to hang out after enjoying the bath. Night may be still young for some - Bar Ripe is located in the main building for guests to enjoy a glass of cocktail before heading to bed. My sister and I braved the cold weather at night to cross the bridge to explore the bar and ended up having a glass of mocktail here (just for the sake of sitting around in the bar)! 

Sunset.

Hot springs with a view. There are two communal bathhouses separated by gender. Hot spring source is mildly alkaline and temperature here has been adjusted to 42 degC. Each bathhouse has an indoor and outdoor section. Highly recommend the outdoor section because the size of the pool is much larger and a spectacular view of Mt Yufu awaits here. Came here for a soak before dinner and I was mesmerised by a brightly lit Mt Yufu during sunset.

Sunrise.

Food splendor. Both meals were served in a private room in Keisuikyo (溪酔居), a separate building located in between the luxurious and standard suites.

Left: Beautiful tableware arrangement; Right: Fresh sashimi and Bungo beef as appetisier.

Yuzu was featured in many of the dishes in their spring edition kaiseki dinner menu. As usual the meal kicked off with a small glass of wine. This time round, a milky looking nigori zake (濁り酒), an unfiltered type of sake, was served. Appetiser was Oita's Bungo beef (豊後牛) and seasonal vegetables, accompanied with a refreshing sauce. Next was a bowl of sakura flavoured sumashijiru (a clear broth cooked with kombu and bonito flakes) with a minced prawn and fish meat ball - love the subtle yet flavourful broth. Enjoyed the fresh sashimi which has a tint of citrus taste as it was placed onto a slice of yuzu fruit.

Left: Sakura flavoured Sumashijiru; Middle: Marbled Bungo beef cooked on hot stone. Right: Pheasant hot pot.

It was also my first time eating a pheasant hot pot (nabe) - tasted like chicken meat to me and the soup has wonderfully extracted the sweet flavours of the pheasant meat and vegetables. Marveled at the sizzling cubes of marbled Bungo beef cooked on hot stone. Was truly yearning for more meat - juicy cubes of grilled meat melting in the mouth! Had a scoop of yuzu sorbet to cleanse the palate before the last rice dish was served. Completely different from previous kaiseki, we had sansai (wild vegetables) and rice dumplings wrapped in leaves which came with an eggy gravy to dip into. The entire dinner was wrapped up with a cheese cake drizzled with a yuzu flavoured sauce.

Bottom right: The glass of mocktail we had in Bar Ripe.

Have to applaud for the chef behind this sumptuous and delicious dinner course! Throughout the entire meal, I was also impressed by the table setting and exquisite tableware used - such as the tree slice with well defined growth rings which was used as the presentation plate. Had an equally pleasant breakfast as well on the following day.

Breakfast.

Conclusion. If I have to nitpick or compare Gettouan to another luxurious accommodation I have stayed before (such as Sanyoan in Hokkaido), I felt that the staff could have been more "attentive" at times. To quote an example: the sliding door could have been closed more gently when the waitress was moving in and out of the private dinning area. Overall stay in Gettouan has been pleasant - fully immersed myself in the serenity of the natural atmosphere and have high acclamation for their food creations.

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Gettouan ゆふいん月燈庵
〒879-5102　大分県由布市湯布院町川上295-2 
http://www.gettouan.com/en/

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Kinrinko 金鱗湖

Visited 22.03.2014

The common goal for most people upon exiting from Yufuin JR Station is to head down to Kirinko (Kinrin Lake), a scenic spot in Yufuin.

Kinrin Lake means "golden fin lake". This name came about because the lake "glitters" under the sun just like fins of a fish. There are two sources of water to this lake: cold water from streams connected to the lake and hot water emerging from the bottom of the lake. At low temperatures early in the day, a fog is formed over the surface of the water, creating this dreamy atmosphere. Didn't manage to witness this phenomenon but looking at the beautiful surroundings and its reflection in the calm waters felt very therapeutic - something that I can stare for a long time without twitching. With the lush vegetation in the background, one can expect Kinrin Lake to portray a different look every season - finding myself a reason to visit this place in a different season next time.

Reflection of blue skies in the lake.

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Kinrinko 金鱗湖
Approx 25 mins walk from Yufuin JR Station.
Yufuin Onsen Tourism Website: http://www.yufuin.gr.jp/index.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Tenjo Sajiki Cafe 天井桟敷

Visited 22.03.2014

This cafe was added to my list of places to visit after reading Milly's travel book (九州：大人的理想休日) on Kyushu. On a side note, I have been an avid supporter of Milly's travel books even since I came across her book featuring Hokkaido. If you are a fan of cafes, or hope to visit laidback hot spring towns, I will recommend reading her books to gather such related information. All in all, Milly did a very comprehensive write up detailing the sights, sounds and tastes experienced during her travels in Japan.

Tenjo Sajiki is a cafe housed in Kamenoi Bessou (亀の井別荘), a luxurious ryokan in Yufuin. Do note that at night (from 1900 hrs onwards), Tenjo Sajiki is transformed to a bar, named Yamaneko (山猫). This cafe is a good place to drop by after visiting Lake Kirinko, which is about 2 mins walk away.

Cafe is located on the second floor and there was already a short queue formed when we arrived. Had to wait for approx 20 mins before we were led to a table on the attic. The attic could accommodate two tables and has a row of bookshelf. On the main floor, half round tables were arranged to face the windows, allowing diners to enjoy their drinks while admiring the serenity outside. Tenjo Sajiki felt like a western style old school cafe, with waiters dressed in black and white uniforms. For diners seated on the attic, the waiter will place the food and drinks in a box and lift them up using a pulley system. 

Bottom left: Mount Yufu

Ordered some cakes and beverages after we settled down.

• Mount Yufu (500 yen), a signature dessert of this cafe. Cream cheese is molded into a conical shape to depict Mount Yufu. Cream cheese is light and smooth in texture and the rum soaked raisins and fine sugar gave the dessert an additional sweet touch.  
• Apart from that, the cheese cake and fruit cake (500 yen/slice) were all delectable and satisfying. Coffee and tea served by Tenjo Sajiki also met our expectations. Like the way they placed a cover over a teapot to mitigate the heat loss from the tea. Always impressed by how small details are well taken care of in Japan. 

Overall, Tenjo Sajiki offers nice ambience and good food - a cafe that I will come again if I visit Yufuin next time.  

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Tenjo Sajiki 天井桟敷
〒879-5198　大分県由布市湯布院町川上2633-1 
Opening hrs: 0900 - 1800 hrs
http://www.kamenoi-bessou.jp/tenjo.html
Less than 2 mins walk from Lake Kirinko.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Yufuin 湯布院, B Speak

Visited 22.03.2014

Mt Yufu as the backdrop. Left: Yufumi dori (由布見通り); Right: Yu no tsubo road (湯の坪街道)

How to tour Yufuin? Yufuin is a hot spring town surrounded by mountains in Oita Prefecture. The train station is where the exploration of Yufuin town begins. The beautiful Mount Yufu, an iconic natural landmark of Yufuin, comes into sight as soon as you step out of the train station. Hand and foot bath can be found at the first souvenir shop on the left - enjoy a rewarding soak before and after the walking trip. The recommended way to tour Yufuin is to make Kinrinko your pit stop and make a turn from there back to the train station. There are food stalls, bakeries, confectioneries, specialty souvenir shops, cafes, etc that will keep you occupied throughout the journey. As there are no high rise buildings in this rural district, you can enjoy a scenic view of twin peaked mountain wherever you go. Walked along ekimae dori (駅前通り) and Yufumi dori (由布見通り), and turned into Yu no tsubo road (湯の坪街道) when I reached B Speak, a well known confectionery in Yufuin. Depsite spending an entire afternoon here, I still felt that I haven't explore this place enough. 

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Highlights:

Numerous specialty shops

Top left: Nekoyashiki (猫屋敷); Top right: Studio Ghibli products in Dongiri no mori (どんぐりの森); Bottom left: Inuyashiki (犬家敷).

- If you are looking for cats and dogs related merchandises, do head down to Nekoyashiki (猫屋敷) and Inuyashiki (犬家敷) located along Tu no tsubo road. The huge variety of goods depicting these adorable pets are made available here and will definitely make you be spoilt for choice.
- Studio Ghibli fans will be excited to see Totoro waiting at Dongiri no mori (どんぐりの森). This shop is specially dedicated to Studio Ghibli related merchandises. Stood in front of the shelves filled with adorable looking merchandises and I was so tempted to bring one Totoro soft toy home. There is even a miniature bus stop just outside the shop where a huge Totoro plushie waits for the cat bus!

Yufuin Floral Village

- Yufuin Floral Village felt like a fairy tale like town where shops are housed in small little cottages and most of them were selling souvenirs (but not entirely unique to Yufuin). Also found out that this village also comprises of a hotel (only four rooms) with hot spring facilities. There is even a mini park here where visitors can come up close to owls, parrots, ducks, rabbits and squirrels. 

Website: http://floral-village.com/?fbclid=IwAR2KRKJ4U3RUL5CsE6iSgczKSWHk0BctxowK-Ez38WiGqGcoZYNvbqXhQp4

B-Speak's P roll

B-Speak 

大分県由布市湯布院町川上3040-2
Opening hrs: 1000 - 1700 hrs
http://b-speak.net/index.html

Read about this legendary swiss roll (known as P roll) that is only available here in Yufuin before my trip. This swiss roll is made by B Speak, a confectionery shop under the luxurious ryokan - Sansou Murata (山荘無量塔). The same group also owns Tenjo Sajiki Cafe (天井桟敷), which I visited as well during this trip. When I arrived at B Speak in the afternoon (~3 pm), all the swiss rolls (both full and sliced) were already sold out for the day. Was contemplating whether to revisit the shop on the next morning to purchase the sliced form on the spot or to pre-order one full roll for collection on the following day. Decided to go for the latter. On the following morning, I arrived just before the shop was opened for business at 1000 hrs that day and was astonished to see a long queue already formed outside the shop, all eager to grab hold of the limited number of Swiss roll available that day. Glad that I pre-ordered mine and could beat the queue to collect my order without much hassle. 

I have to exclaim that this is one of the best Swiss roll I have ever eaten! Best consume within the same day (and in fact within the next few hours upon purchase), this fluffy sponge cake is very soft in texture, eggy and fragrant. The cream is smooth, not too sweet and complements the cake perfectly. Wanted to savour another slice of P roll while on board Yufuin no mori but it was completely sold out.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 8 Itinerary: Oita 大分, Yufuin 由布院

Day 8: 22.03.2014
* Day 1 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass

Yufuin

Breakfast: Ryokan Wakaba わかば

Explored Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉.

Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉 (1126 hrs) > Yufuin Bus Center ゆふいんバスセンター (1301 hrs) 
by Sanko Bus 九州横断バス. Fee = 1,700 yen. 

Explored Yufuin: 
(1) Walked along ekimae dori 駅前通り, yufumi dori 由布見通り, yu no tsubo road 湯の坪街道. 
(2) Kinrinko 金鱗湖

Tea break: Tenjo Sajiki 天井桟敷

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Yufuin JR Station 由布院駅 > Gettouan 月燈庵
by taxi. Fee = 1,000 yen.

Check in: Gettouan 月燈庵

Dinner: Gettouan 月燈庵

- End of Day 8 -

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Yufuin JR Station 由布院駅

Yufuin JR Station, on Kyudai main line.

(1) Yufuin no mori (ゆふいんの森), commutes between Hakata and Yufuin/Beppu.
Note: There are three round trips per day, but only one commutes between Hakata & Beppu.

(2) Ltd Express Yufu, commutes between Hakata and Beppu. 

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Features:

Top left: Footbath at the station platform; Top right: Mt Yufu in sight when you look out of the train station.

(1) Footbaths: Upon exiting from the train station, you can find hand and foot baths at the first souvenir shop on the left. Moreover, there is a footbath facility located on the station platform, allowing passengers to enjoy a good foot soak before the train arrives!

(2) Design: Aesthetically pleasing wooden structure which was designed by Isozaki Atara, an architect who was born in Oita Prefecture. He wanted to create a image of an Italian chapel of Medieval period. High ceiling in the middle of the building and elevated windows allows natural lighting to illuminate the interior of the train station. A spectacular view of Mt Yufu stands right in front of you, when you look out of the train station.  

What's nearby?

(1) Horse carriage rides:
There are about 15 horse carriage services per day (Mar - Nov) departing from the train station. As these horse carriage rides are very popular, I will recommend making the reservation through the tourist information center (found within the train station) as soon as you arrive in Yufuin. Apart from horse carriage rides, rickshaws and vintage cars (known as Scarborough スカーボロ)  serve as alternative means to tour Yufuin.
Website: http://www.yufuin.gr.jp/meguru.html

(2) Yufuin Ekimae Bus Center:

Approx 1 min walk from train station. 

- Take Bus 36 from here to Beppu JR Station West Exit. Approx 50 mins bus journey, cost 900 yen. Took this bus for a short day trip to Beppu. 
http://www.kamenoibus.com/data/kamenoibus_rosen_yufuin.pdf
- New: Yufurin Bus (ゆふりん) which departs from bus center, stops at Umi Jigoku & Kannawa, the gateway to Beppu's famous Jigoku ("Hells" = hot spring attraction).  
http://www.kamenoibus.com/guruspa/hp/yufurin/index.html

(3) Ekimae dori 駅前通り, Yufumi dori 由布見通り and Yu no tsubo kaido 湯の坪街道:
These three roads made up the main walking route from the train station to Lake Kinrinko. There are plenty of souvenir shops, confectioneries/bakeries, cafes and restaurants lined up on both sides of the streets - enough to spend one good afternoon to tour the area extensively. Will do a brief write up on some of these shops in a separate page.

(4) Lake Kinrinko 金鱗湖:
About 25 mins walk from the train station. Follow the signs along the main walking route to reach this other landmark of Yufuin.

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