Saturday, July 18, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ryokan Wakaba わかば

Stayed 21.03.2014 (1 night)
Booked via Booking.com


Although there is a decent number of accommodation options in Kurokawa Onsen, most of them are small scale and do not have many rooms available. Therefore it is advisable to book early especially when this hidden gem is receiving more media attention over the years. Ryokan Wakaba is located nearest to the main bus stop and is less than 5 mins walk to the main hot spring street. You can also request staffs to pick you up at the bus stop if given prior notice. 

Hospitality: A traditional Japanese two storey building, Wakaba is a small scale family run ryokan with only 15 rooms. The immense hospitality showed by the staff here made me felt at ease during my stay. Everyone here serve you with a smile on their faces, regardless of the type of tasks they are handling. As we were brought into our room. the attendant tried her best to explain the features of the hotel (in Japanese mixed with a few simple English words) with hand gestures. Despite us feeling tired after a long bus ride which we took from Mt Aso, we were thoroughly brightened up by her enthusiasm and friendly personality. During meals, the attendant also gave his very best to describe every dish that was served to us despite the language barrier between us. To me, these are the little gestures that will leave memorable impression in people's mind and most importantly, attract guests to come back again.

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Highlights:


Facilities: Booked a twin sharing room, with half board included, at 15,750 yen/pax. Room has a toilet but no bathroom. However, this was not an issue since we utilized the communal bath house offered by the ryokan. Each guest will also get his/her own set of Yukata, towels, socks and toiletries. One habit that I have made (to the point it has become a ritual after multiple trips to Japan) when staying in a ryokan is to first make myself a pot of green tea and enjoy the snacks before heading for my first soak. There is a small shop near the front desk where guests can grab local made/produced souvenirs before departing. 


Hot spring: Two bathhouses are separated by gender. Each bathhouse has a indoor and an open air pool. I prefer the open air hot spring pool (also known as "Rotenburo") where one can catch a glimpse of Chikugo river. At one corner of the pool, the depth is reduced allowing one to lie down while soaking in the hot spring waters - quite a comfortable experience!

Apart from the communal pools, Wakaba also has several private hot spring bathrooms which guests can reserve at no additional charges. We did try out one but the temperature was just too hot for us to even put our legs in. Hot spring water is mildly acidic and source temperature is as high as 60 degC. It is known for curing cuts and burns, and also beneficial to those with skin problems or gynecological illnesses.


Meals. Japanese style multi course dinner was served in our room. The highlight of the meal was horse meat sashimi (Basashi) - a local delicacy in Kumamoto Prefecture. The thinly sliced marbled meat was not chewy like what I anticipated it to be. For me, it felt like eating any other tuna sashimi and definitely not something that I will crave for. The sumptuous dinner also comprised of mouth watering grilled kuro wagyu beef, skin crisp salt grilled yamame trout, tender braised pork belly, yasai tempura and seasonal fruit mousse cake. Overall, I will give a thumb up for the entire dinner course. Had our breakfast in the main dining hall - rice was served with salted salmon, tamago, pickled vegetables, fresh salad and tofu soup.  


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Ryokan Wakaba わかば
869-2402 熊本県阿蘇郡南小国町黒川温泉
http://www.ryokanwakaba.com/



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Video: Found this excellent Youtube video featuring Ryokan Wakaba.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春天之旅 - Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉, Shirotamakko 白玉っ子, Doradora どらどら

Visited 21.03.2014, 22.03.2014


Hidden gem. Located in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kurokawa Onsen is a hidden gem that I uncovered during this trip. You will be captivated by its serenity upon arrival. Absence of high rise buildings, only traditional Japanese style houses surrounded by mountains. Chikugo river passes through this small hot spring town, filled with ryokans, eateries and shops. The entire town is fairly small, not too commercialised nor touristy yet, and can be covered within a couple of hours. My advice is don't rush and just your time pass slowly here. A stay in this tranquil town is simply rejuvenating and do wonders to a person's health and mood - stepping out from the hasty pace of life in a growing city. Kurokawa Onsen is a place I miss most from this trip and will surely visit again.

Onsen hopping pass. Otherwise known as Nyuto Tegata (入湯手形) cost 1,300 yen and allows visitors to try out 3 different hot spring bath at any 24 participating ryokans in Kurokawa Onsen. The usage of hot spring facility normally cost between 500 to 600 yen, therefore purchasing this pass is an economical way to try out different rotenburo. Valid for 6 months, this wooden pass can be hung around the neck and will be stamped each time you visit a different bath. Bought one but was not keen in the onsen hopping activity. Brought it back as a souvenir instead.

Top right: Jizoudou, a shrine in Kurokawa Onsen
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Highlights:


Shirotamakko 白玉っ子
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs
https://www.siratamakko.com/

This was the first place we visited after checking in to Ryokan Wakaba. If you are a fan of Japanese glutinous rice balls, this is a cafe to visit to savour their desserts. Served either hot or cold, these colourful balls can be eaten together with soy bean powder or sweet red bean paste. Ordered the seasonal set which comprised of a bowl of matcha, five mochi balls with fragrant tanba kuromame powder (black soybean) and a scoop of strawberry flavoured ice cream - a delectable dessert set to celebrate the arrival of spring!



Left: Shiro Croquette from Warokuya; Right: Mochi dorayaki from Doradora.
Doradora どらどら, located beside Jizoudou (地蔵堂).
Opening hrs: 0930 - 1800 hrs; Sat, Sun and Public Holidays: 0900 - 1800 hrs
http://kurokawa-kaze.com/index.html

Red bean pancake or dorayaki are commonly found in Japan. In Doradora, a twist was made to this traditional Japanese snack. If you can consume the food on the spot, sandwich a scoop of ice-cream between the pancakes and red bean paste. I bought one that was pre-packed - pancake surface was stamped with a picture similar to the one on the wooden onsen hopping pass, and ice-cream was replaced with mochi, but only ate it after departure from Kurokawa Onsen. What caught me by surprise was that the mochi was stuffed with sweet cream too. The various layers blended well harmoniously together with every bite: the eggy pancake, crunchy red bean paste, chewy mochi and smooth cream filling! How I wish I could have bought a few more pieces! 

Top left: the very popular Patisserie Roku; Top right: Completed onsen hopping pass hung outside Jizoudou.
... and more food! 
Explored Kurokawa Onsen again after breakfast. Did a leisure stroll along the onsen street, stopping by shops to look for unique souvenirs and food stalls to grab a quick snack. In one morning (despite after breakfast), we had fragrant and flavoured rice crackers, honey soft serve and Kumamoto pork croquette (from Warokuya わろく屋). Saw a small crowd at a confectionery - Patisserie Roku, which is famous for their Swiss roll. Squeezed into the shop but left empty handed because Swiss roll here were not sold in slices. After trying out the delicious Swiss roll from the extremely popular B Speak confectionary in Yufuin on the following day, I was already thinking how good Patisserie Roku's would turn out to be...

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Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉
黒川温泉観光旅館協同組合 インフォメーションセンター
869-2402 熊本県阿蘇郡南小国町黒川さくら通り
http://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/

How to get there?

By bus: Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. Utiltised this bus service from Mt Aso West Station to visit Kurokawa Onsen. On the following day, I took the same bus from Kurokawa Onsen to Yufuin.
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Video: Scroll to 20:10 for 遇约九州's feature on Kurokawa Onsen. 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Mt Aso 阿蘇

Visited 21.03.2014

Not clouds but huge plumes of volcanic gases emitted from Nakadake.
Incomplete. I always find it a challenge to pen down thoughts for a place which I did not get to explore fully due to unforeseen circumstances. I will definitely list Mt Aso was one of them. Mt Aso activity has been pretty erratic in recent years and it has become increasingly difficult to get a peek of the fuming Nakadake (中岳) crater. On the day before our visit, bus services (Asosan Ropeway was under maintenance at that point of time) to Nakadake was suspended as eruption alert was raised. On the day of visit, alert was lifted and bus services were resumed. Unfortunately, the area near the crater were restricted as huge plumes of volcanic gases (H2S and SO2) were emitted and engulfed the surrounding area. Weather was also very unpredictable that day. First had to battled a snow storm when we arrived. Had to seek shelter because of the strong chilling wind and poor visibility. A while later, the storm stopped and we were greeted by clear blue skies. And just before we left, the snow storm recovered. Despite not being able to come close to the crater, the beautiful natural landscape of this mountainous area was something worth making the trip for. Not sure whether I will get the chance to revisit Mt Aso in the near future especially when volcanic activity continues to be perpetually high at this point of time.


Facts about Mt Aso. Mt Aso is made up of five peaks - Nakadake, Kishimadake, Eboshidake, Nekodake and Takadake. It is currently the largest active volcano in Japan and only the active Nakadake is accessible to visitors. Takadake is the highest among all, standing at 1,592 m tall. Aso has one of the largest caldera in the world - 25 km north-south and 18 km east-west, spanning over an area of 380 km2.







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What's nearby?

House riding acitvity in Kusasenri.
(1) Kusasenri 草千里
Along the way to Mt Aso Ropeway, you will spot this huge grassland surrounded by mountains. Kusasenri is a round shaped grassland, which originally was a crater, located between Kishimadake (杵島岳) and Eboshidake (烏帽子岳). From photos, one may mistaken Kusasenri for a place in Mongolia - clear blue skies, a small pond hidden within the lush greenery and horses are allowed to gaze freely on the large plain. Passed by Kusasenri on the bus but could not replicate this scenery as the weather was bad (snowing) during the day of my visit.

Spotted Komezuka during the bus journey from Mt Aso to Kurokawa Onsen.
(2) Komezuka 米塚
Keep a lookout for a smaller and well defined hill that can be easily identified by its depression on the summit when you travel around Mt Aso area. Komezuka actually means "rice hill" and its name came about because of a legend. Rice harvest was piled up to form this hill by a deity of Aso (Takeiwatatsunomikoto). The slight depression on the summit was said to be created after rice was scooped out from the top by him to distribute to poor people.

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Mt Aso Ropeway 阿蘇山ロープウェイ
Operating hours:
- 20 Mar - 31 Oct: 0830 - 1800 hrs
- 1 Nov - 30 Nov: 0830 - 1700 hrs
- 1 Dec - 19 Mar: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Fee = 1,200 yen (round trip); 750 yen (single trip)
* When ropeway is closed for maintenance, buses are employed to shuffle visitors between both stations. Similar fare is charged for the bus service.
* Please check out the following website to acquire advisory information for visit to Mt Aso.
http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/aso/lang_en/

How to get there?

(1) Sanko Bus 産交バス
Board the Aso Crater line bus (阿蘇火口線) heading for Mt Aso West Station (阿蘇山西駅). Fee = 650 yen.
Timetable (in Japanese): http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/aso_sen/

(2) Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (Ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. 




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Video: Scroll to 23:10 for 遇约九州 feature on Mt Aso.

Friday, July 17, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Aso JR Station 阿蘇駅



Aso JR Station, on Hohi main line. This train station was refurbished to blend in with the natural landscape and the majestic Mt Aso. Was greeted by good weather and awed by an unobstructed view of the mountainous area upon exiting from the train station.

Currently, there are several sightseeing trains that make a stop at this train station.
  • Aso Boy!, commutes between Kumamoto and Miyaji. 
  • Kyushu Odan Tokkyu, commutes between Beppu and Hitoyoshi.
  • Seven Stars in Kyushu, the luxurious train which was introduced in 2013.
Kuro chan's office! The adorable black dog mascot for Aso Boy! train has an office (in fact a kennel) at this train station.

What's nearby? 

(1) Bus stop to Mt Aso and Kurokawa Onsen.

- Sanko Bus 産交バス
Board the Aso Crater line bus (阿蘇火口線) heading for Mt Aso West Station (阿蘇山西駅). Fee = 650 yen.
Timetable (in Japanese): http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/sankobus/aso_sen/

- Kyushu Odan Bus 九州横断バス
A very useful bus service that commutes between Kumamoto and Beppu, and stops at Aso JR Station, Mt Aso West Station (ropeway station), Kurokawa Onsen and Yufuin. Utiltised this bus service from Mt Aso West Station to visit Kurokawa Onsen. On the following day, I took the same bus from Kurokawa Onsen to Yufuin.

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Aso Boy! あそぼーい!

Travelled on 21.03.2014

Arrival of Aso Boy! train at Kumamoto JR Station.
There are two round trips on a day when the train is in operation (Sat, Sun and holidays). For this trip, I boarded Aso Boy 101 which departed from Kumamoto JR Station at 1028 hrs and arrived at Aso JR Station at 1155 hrs.
Do check out the train operating schedule on JR Kyushu website: http://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/trains/asoboy/
  • Aso Boy 101 and 103: Kumamoto > Miyaji
  • Aso Boy 102 and 104: Miyaji > Kumamoto
Who is Aso Boy? The train name "Aso boy" does not refer to a particular person. It actually comes from the phrase Asobuyo, which means "let's play". And indeed, as the name implies, various features of this train were designed to trigger that playful instinct in every passenger who board the train, regardless of age. Aso Boy train commutes along Hohi main line and be captivated by the surrounding rural landscape as the train cruises along the line. Alight at Tateno JR Station to transfer to Minami Aso Railway. Alight at Aso Station and continue your journey by bus to Mt Aso.

Kuro chan found everywhere in this train.
Who is Kuro chan? Kuro chan (full name is Aso Kuroemon) is a adorable black dog mascot created for Aso boy train. Most would have first caught sight of this mascot at Kumamoto JR Station, alongside the famous Kumamon. Kuro chan is spotted almost everywhere inside out the train. Follow the trails of Kuro chan as you uncover the various features of the train. There are 101 Kuro chan, in various poses (didn't count to verify this figure that was reported on JR Kyushu's website) spread all over the body of the train. His "kennel" is actually located in Aso JR Station, however it requires some luck to see him in person.

Highlights:


Panoramic view & switch back. The driver's seat normally occupies at the ends of a train. However, this norm is overthrown in this particular train. Instead the driver has taken a back seat (a separate compartment within the same carriage) to allow passengers occupying the front seats to have an obstruction free view throughout the train journey. The railway tracks are arranged in a zig-zag configuration at Tateno JR Station. After this station, the train operates in a switch back mode - first it will move backwards for a short distance then change direction to ascend a steeper gradient.  


Playroom. One of the train carriages is designated as the kids playroom. There is pool filled with wooden balls and a cabin attendant stationed there to play with the kids. Discovered a small library corner where you can see the engrossed looks in some children as they browsed through the collection of books. One unique feature of this train is the "Kuro" seats found in this carriage as well. These seats are designed for an adult and a child to sit together i.e. a shorter backrest, lower headrest and higher leg rest for kids, and the child seat is always beside the window. Yet again, impressed by the thoughtful features of this train. With the lovable mascot, Kuro-chan, appearing in every corner of the train, you will find yourself or others exclaiming "kawai" and stopping to take photos while exploring different areas onboard this train.


Cafe, ekiben & souvenirs. Cafe is located in the same carriage as the playroom. Here, you can get snacks and drinks and purchase Kuro chan merchandise. Bought Kuro's Asomoko bento lunch (1,080 yen) which contains Aso's locally produced beef and rice, salad, fried egg, chicken karaage, potato wedges and a prune - felt like a well-balanced diet! The extensive array of merchanidse left us spoilt for choice - clear folders, collar pins, mugs, towels, badges, postcards, etc, and all of them imprinted with Kuro chan on them. Bought the collar pins and postcards to send back home.   

Commemorative boarding pass & stamp. Don't forget to grab your commemorative boarding card and stamp on board the train. The inked stamp is placed at one corner in the playroom/cafe carriage.

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Video: Found this really good video featuring Aso Boy train and Mt Aso on Youtube. See how the switch back operation take place at Tateno JR Station.

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Boarding pass & commemorative stamp:




Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 7 Itinerary: Aso 阿蘇, Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉

Day 7: 21.03.2014
* Day 5 of 5 Days JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Area)

Kurokawa Onsen
Breakfast: Mitsui Garden Hotel 三井ガーデ ンホテル熊本

Karashi machi 辛島町 > Kumamoto ekimae 熊本駅前
by Kumamoto City Tram, via A line. Fee = 150 yen.

Kumamoto JR Station 熊本駅 (1026 hrs) > Aso JR Station 阿蘇駅 (1149 hrs)
by Aso Boy 101.

Lunch: Ekiben on board Aso Boy train

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Aso JR Station 阿蘇駅 > Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅
by Sanko Bus 阿蘇火口線. Fee = 540 yen. (650 yen from 1 Apr 2014 onwards)

Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅 > Kako Nishi eki 火口西駅
by bus (ropeway not in operation). Fee = 1,200 yen (round trip).

Visited Mt Aso 阿蘇山.

Asosan Nishi eki 阿蘇山西駅 (1440 hrs) > Kurokawa Onsen 黒川温泉 (1531 hrs)
by Sanko Bus 九州横断バス. Fee = 1,600 yen

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Check in: Ryokan Wakaba わかば

Tea break: Glutinous rice balls at Shirotamakko 白玉っ子

DinnerRyokan Wakaba わかば

- End of Day 7 -

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Okada Coffee 岡田珈琲

Visited 20.03.2014


In actual fact, this is not my first time to Okada Coffee because I have been to its branch in Singapore, which has been around quite some time ago. Had their high tea set and signature Mont Blanc cake on several visits and I am quite pleased with the food so far. Told myself I have to pay this cafe a visit if I ever come to Kumamoto next time. Originated in 1945, Okada Coffee has been around in Kumamoto for 70 years and has established several branches within this prefecture as well.

Came to the main branch located in Kami Tori after dinner. A two storey shop house - first floor sells a variety of coffee beans, sweets and biscuits while the cafe is located on the second floor. Took the counter seats as the rest of the tables in the cafe were occupied. Despite the small space, wooden furnishings, dimmed lighting and usage of English style tableware, created a nostalgic and cosy atmosphere for diners.


Taste test. Ordered a slice of roll cake and Mont Blanc cake, accompanied with coffee and tea. Mont Blanc cake did not disappoint at all - crispy base topped with fragrant chestnut mousse and filling. In terms of taste, I find it quite similar to what they offered in Singapore. Roll cake was moist, wrapped with sweet and smooth chestnut cream - a perfect dessert to go with coffee/tea. Overall, this was on par with the Singapore's branch though I was actually expecting more from this visit. Nevertheless, still glad to know that the quality of food & beverages are not compromised in their overseas branches.

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Okada Coffee (Kami Tori Main Branch) 岡田珈琲 (上通本店)
860-0845 熊本市上通り1-20
Opening hrs: 1000 - 2100 hrs
http://www.okada-coffee.com/

How to get there?
Take Kumamoto Streetcar (Route A from Kumamoto JR Station towards Kengunmachi 健軍町) and alight at Torichosuji 通町筋. Look out for Kami Tori covered walkway and Okada Coffee is the second shop on the left.




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Okada Coffee Singapore Branch
100 Tras St, 100 AM building (Shopping complex connected to Amara Hotel), #03-23.
Opening hrs: 1030 - 2200 hrs