Sunday, February 15, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - River Flow リバーフロー 紅茶の店

Visited 16.03.2014



Was reading a travel guide on Kyushu and stumbled across this picture of a heart shaped tea cup, which was served by River Flow, a tea house in Yanagawa. Paying this tea house a visit soon had to be put into my list of places to visit in Yanagawa (apart from tasting its famous steamed eel rice) for this trip!

Went for the river punting cruise, the activity most tourists would engage in on their debut trip to Yanagawa, also referred to the city of river. Alighted at Okihata (the end point of an hour long river punting cruise), and made our way to River Flow located in the vicinity. A two storey shophouse which overlooks the scenic river, River Flow sells more than 50 different varieties of tea. Interior of the tea house was decorated with European style wallpaper, wooden furnishing and parquet flooring - all these features created a homely and cosy ambience for guests to relax in. First floor is their tea shop, while the upper deck has about 6 tables for in house dining.

Original intent was to take a short break here over a cup of tea. However, we could not resist not ordering their limited period lunch set (1,350 yen), which was introduced for Dolls Festival, to share. Had two other tea and dessert sets, each comprised of a slice of cake and a pot of tea.


(1) Main course of the lunch set was made up of many delectable small dishes: meat loaf, mackerel with sesame sauce, simmered vegetables, broccoli and bamboo shoot mixed with ume dressing, asparagus and walnut with Japanese dressing, fried beancurd stuffed with sushi rice and soup. Strawberry milk jelly dessert and a pot of tea were served at the end of the meal. The lunch set not only had a good balance of meat and vegetable items and eye appealing plating, tastewise it had exceeded our expectations as well.

(2) Two tea and desserts sets:
- Haruiro Set はるいろセット (850 yen), which comprised of matcha azuki chiffon cake and sakura tea.
- Hina Set ひなセット (850 yen), which comprised of strawberry custard roll cake and original blend tea.
Cakes and tea were served in beautiful and intricate flower patterned porcelain wares. Preferred the chiffon cake beacause the matcha flavour was fully infused in the sponge cake. Both cakes went well with the recommended type of tea.

Overall dinning experience was good. River Flow has a apt setting for people to spend an afternoon here with families and friends, catching up on each other's life, with the company of delicious cakes and aromatic tea. 

======

River Flow 紅茶の店
http://tearoom-riverflow.com/
Opening hrs: 1000 - 1930 hrs (Closed on Wed)


======

Video: Tea house was featured in 食尚玩家 previously. Scroll to 8:00 for their recommendation. 


Continuation:

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Yanagawa River Punting Ride 柳川 川下り

Visited 16.03.2014 (Sun)

Crossed the Taiko bashi to get to Shogetsu Dock, the embarkation point for river punting ride.
Utilised Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket (太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ) offered by Ninshitetsu. River punting in Yanagawa is included in this package. From Yanagawa Ninshitetsu Station, exit and turn right to locate the punting information desk. A bus will ferry passengers to the river punting embarkation point at Shogetsu Dock (松月乗船場) which can be easily identified by a red arched Taiko bashi (太鼓橋).

Top left: Squeezed into Shirohori floodgate; Top right: Cafe located on the river bank.
Journey. Yanagawa is referred to as a city of waterways because of the 470 km long canals that run into the city. These canals were constructed surrounding the dysfunctional Yanagawa Castle, more than half a century ago. The punter moves the boat by pushing against the river bed with a long pole. The entire river punt ride takes slightly over an hour to complete; at a decent leisure pace. Punter would provide historical/cultural background of this city and would direct our attention to the scenery or buildings situated along the river bank every now and then - but all spoken in Japanese. The most "thrilling" moments of the punt ride were the times when the punt had to maneuver under the low ceiling bridges. As the boat approached these bridges, the punter would warn all on board passengers to put down their heads or lean forward, and punter himself would have to change from a standing to squat position skilfully and revert after the punt has reappeared from below the bridge every time. There are about 10 such bridges throughout the entire journey. The narrowest passageway was at Shirohori floodgate (城堀水門) where the punter had to adjust the position of the punt such that it would not knock against the stone walls. Passed by a riverside cafe which passengers could request to drop by to order drinks and snacks; plum trees with vibrant colours decorated the banks of the river during the early spring season; spotted ducks waddling leisurely alongside the boats. The disembarkation port is at Okihata; from here, you can make your way to Ohana Villa and Shoto-en, or visit the shophouses located along Inari machi (稲荷町) and Okinohata machi (沖端町).

Top left: Spotted blooming plum blossoms; Bottom right: Punter had to squat when moving beneath the low ceiling bridges.
Bottom left: Strolled down Inari machi and Okinohata machi, on opposite side of the river bank; Right: Disembarkation port.
Festival. Yanagawa celebrates Sagemon Meguri (Yanagawa's Hina Matsuri or Dolls' Festival) from mid February to end March. On the day of our visit, young girls and women, dressed in bright kimono and worn head dresses, rode on the river punts and passed by our punt in the opposite direction (later found out that this event is "Hina dolls water parade" which takes place on the 3rd Sunday of March every year). Colourful sagemon, which are ornaments such as balls, animals and dolls made out of clothes, are unique to Yanagawa and can be found strung together and hung across the canals during this period of time.

Adorable girls dressed in kimono and head dresses occupied rode on the river punts.

Colourful sagemon decorated the canals of Yanagawa.
======

Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ

- Priced at 2,930 yen (adults), this ticket can be purchased from both Nishitetsu Tenjin and Yakuin Station. At Nishitetsu Tenjin Station, the ticket counter is located on the second floor, just outside the North Ticket Gate.
- Website (Japanese): http://www.ensen24.jp/kippu/1/; (English): http://www.nnr.co.jp/train/kippura/global/english/ticket/i_dazayana.html

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station 西鉄柳川駅, Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ

Yanagawa Station, on Tenjin Omuta line.
This train station is the gateway to Yanagawa, the city of waterways.


Nishitetsu Tenjin > Yanagawa 
- takes approx. 48 mins by limited express train;
- takes approx 106 mins by local train.


======

Dazaifu and Yanagawa Sightseeing Ticket 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ



-  If you plan to visit both Dazaifu and Yanagawa, I will recommend this sightseeing ticket offered by Nishitetsu. Priced at 2,930 yen (adults), this ticket can be purchased from both Nishitetsu Tenjin and Yakuin Station. At Nishitetsu Tenjin Station, the ticket counter is located on the second floor, just outside the North Ticket Gate.
- This package includes:
  • Nishitetsu train round trip ticket
    • Typical route taken: Tenjin/Yakuin > Yanagawa/Dazaifu > Dazaifu/Yanagawa > Tenjin/Yakuin
    • With this ticket, you can only alight/board at Tenjin/Yakuin, Yanagawa and Dazaifu Station which are all operated by Nishitetsu. 
    • What makes this ticket more attractive is that it can be used over a period of two days. Therefore, one can opt for the following itinerary to explore both places more extensively:
      • Day 1: Tenjin > Yanagawa; Stay over in Yanagawa for the night
      • Day 2: Yanagawa > Dazaifu > Tenjin
    • Visited Yanagawa in the day and left after 3 pm. Though I completed the river punting earlier in the day, I visited two other cafes/restaurants after that which explained why a huge portion of the day was spent in Yanagawa. When I reached Dazaifu, I didn't have much time to explore the area sufficiently as it was nearing the closing hour of the shrine and shops. Could have managed my time better. 
Ferried to the river punting boarding point by bus. 
  • River punting ticket in Yanagawa
    • Upon reaching Yanagawa Station, make your way to punting information desk which is located along a row of shop houses on the right side of the train station (after exiting from the train station).  
    • A bus will disembark in front of the information desk to ferry river punting passengers to the boarding point, Shogetsu Punting Station (松月乗船場).
    • River cruise takes about an hour or so. 
  • Special discount coupons such as
    • 50 yen discount on admission fee to Ohana Villa in Yanagawa
    • 50 yen discount on Yangawa Nishitetsu taxi
    • 100 yen discount on steamed eel rice - restricted to Rokkyu (民芸茶屋六騎) and Unagi no Fuki (うなぎの富貴) restaurant. 
    • 100 yen discount on admission fee to Dazaifu Amusement Park
    • 100 yen discount on bicycle rental at Dazaifu Station

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 2 Itinerary: Fukuoka 福岡 (Yanagawa 柳川, Dazaifu 太宰府)  

Day 2: 16.03.2014

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine
Breakfast: Ueshima Coffee 上島珈琲 @ Hakata JR Station

Hakata 博多> Tenjin 天神
by subway, via Kuko line. Fee = 250 yen.

Walked to Nishitetsu Tenjin Station.

Bought Nishitetsu Dazaifu & Yanagawa Sightseeing Pack 太宰府.柳川観光きっぷ.
Fee = 2,800 yen. [2,930 yen from 1 Apr 2014 onwards]

Nishitetsu Tenjin > Nishitetsu Yanagawa 西鉄柳川駅
by limited express train via Omuta line.

Nishitetsu Yanagawa > Shogetsu Dock 松月乗船場 
by free shuttle bus.

River Punting from Shogetsu Dock > Okihata

Tea break: 红茶の店 River Flow

Lunch: Unagi no seiro mushi at Motoyoshiya 吉本屋

Nishitetsu Yanagawa > Futsukuchi > Dazaifu 太宰府駅
transfer from Omuta line to Dazaifu line.

Visited Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 太宰府天満宮.

Tea break: Dazaifu Starbucks スターバックス太宰府天満宮店 

Dazaifu > Futsukuchi > Nishitetsu Tenjin
transfer from Dazaifu line to Omuta line.

Dinner: Tetsunabe 鉄なべ @ Tenjin Parco

Tenjin > Hakata
by subway, via Kuko Line. Fee = 250 yen.

- End of Day 2 -

Sunday, January 18, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)

Visited 15.03.2014

Right: Raw chicken ham.
Have you ever eaten Bijin Nabe (beauty hot pot) in Singapore? This Japanese style chicken hot pot has become increasingly popular since it was introduced here a few years ago. The highlight is the rich and flavorful chicken collagen soup. Chicken bones are fully dissolved in a stock cooked for more than 8 hours. Tasty and moist chicken meat and a good variety of organic vegetables are simmered together in the milky beauty collagen soup. So far, I have eaten this once in Singapore and have always wanted to visit it again. In fact, Tsukada Nojo, the name of the restaurant offering this hot pot dish, originated from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu. 

Raw chicken? A similar version of Bijin Nabe can be found in in Hakata. It is called Mizutaki or chicken hot pot and is a specialty dish offered in numerous restaurants here in Hakata. Chose Hanamidori, one of the most established names with about 10 branches just within Fukuoka. Hanamidori has their own chicken poultry farms to ensure the best quality chicken can be served on the tables.  Came to this branch located nearby Hakata Miyako Hotel. Very comfortable setting, well illuminated and wooden blinds are pulled down between tables to create a personal space for diners. Hanamidori offers various set courses catered to different budget and we decided to go for the Aji course (味コース). The set course comprised of appetisers, raw chicken ham, seared chicken, chicken broth hot pot and rice. What baffled me most in the menu was raw chicken meat. The first question that pops up in everyone's mind: is it even safe to eat raw meat in the first place? Most of us should have eaten uncooked chicken meat unintentionally during BBQ and steamboat sessions, and raw meat is very chewy and unpalatable. However, the thinly sliced raw chicken ham served by Hanamidori has a firm texture and tasted much better than I thought - just like any ham I had before. Passed my taste test.



Mizutaki. Before we begin eating the chicken broth hot pot, waitress scooped a small of cup of chicken broth sprinkled with chopped spring onions for each of us to drink. The soup was luscious - "unami" of chicken broth broke out instantaneously in our mouths on the every first sip! Handmade meat balls, liver (which my parents liked very much) and vegetables elevated the flavours of the soup further. Hanamidori's signature ponzu sauce is an important condiment for the meat - the slightly sour taste whet the appetite and went well with the moist chicken meat. Just when you thought the set course was completed after all the ingredients in the soup were eaten, the waitress proceeded to create a porridge with the remaining soup and beat an raw egg into it as well. Slurped up the entire bowl of porridge as soon as it was served to us - a gesture to show that we enjoyed this entire chicken feast very much.

Looks like Mizutaki has topped the list of food I will want to eat again in Kyushu!  

Do you know? Hanamidori has opened an overseas branch in Singapore, currently located in Plaza Singapura. Have yet to pay this restaurant a visit. With the success of Bijin Nabe in Singapore I believe the reception to Hanamidori should be pretty decent as well.
Website: https://www.hanamidori.com.sg/

======

Hanamidori (Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit) 博多華味鳥 (博多駅筑紫口店)
福岡市博多区博多駅東1-13-31 駅東サンシティビル1F
Opening hrs: 1130 - 1500 hrs; 1700 - 0000 hrs
http://www.hanamidori.net/


======

Video: Restaurant was featured in 食尚玩家. Scroll to 42:00 for their recommendation on the restaurant.

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)

Visited 15.03.2014


I have not developed to become a ramen lover despite being to Japan multiple times over the past few years. Personally, I find the soup too salty for my liking on most occasions. However, this trip to Kyushu changed my impression of ramen totally. Hakata is famous for ramen and there are many established brands to choose from. So far, Ichiran Ramen is one of the few that conquered my taste buds. 

Unique dining experience. Headed down to Ichiran Ramen for our first meal in Kyushu. Came the flagship store near Nakasu Kawabata subway station. Purchased a meal coupon at the automated ticket machine and joined the queue. While waiting, the staff passed us a piece of paper (available in English as well) each to indicate our preferred bowl of ramen, such as soup richness and flavour, texture of noodles, addition of Ichiran's original spicy sauce, condiments such as garlic and green onions. Tables here are all counter seats but each seat is separated by dividers thus creating a private space for every customer. Once seated, both meal coupon and paper were passed to the staff through a small window in front of the table. After my customised bowl of ramen was delivered through the window, the staff pulled down the window blind as a gesture that meal order has been completed.



Not sure whether it was due to the fact that this bowl of ramen was prepared based on my preference, the first bite of the noodles and sip of the soup hit the right spot instantaneously! Pork based broth was rich in collagen, very smooth and flavourful, to the point that I drank up the entire bowl. Personally, I preferred the thinner noodles that were served here too - cooked to the right texture I wanted. Every mouthful is packed with unami and it took less than 10 minutes to gobble down this satisfying bowl of ramen. In the end, I bought a few packets of noodles at Fukuoka Airport, hoping to revive this wholesome taste back at home. To my dismay, it still doesn't taste as good as my first encounter with Ichiran Ramen.

Back at home, I find Ippudo Ramen, another famous brand which originated from Hakata, quite similar to Ichiran Ramen in terms of taste - pork based broth and thin noodles. Therefore, I patronise Ippudo occasionally when the cravings for ramen set in. Though subconsciously, I still find Ichiran Ramen better. Hope to witness the day when Ichiran Ramen comes to Singapore! 

======

Ichiran Ramen 一蘭ラメん (Nakasu head shop & office 本社総本店)
〒810-0801 福岡県福岡市博多区中洲5-3-2

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

Stayed 15.03.2014 - 17.03.2014 (2 days)
Booked thru' Booking.com


- There are always many accommodation options near major train stations. Hakata was the first and last stop of my 12 days trip in Kyushu. Stayed in two different hotels - Hakata Miyako Hotel and JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo, located within walking distance from East (Chikusi) and West exit of the train station. 

- Take the escalator up to second level where the hotel lobby is located. A cafe can be found on the same floor. Booked a twin room (without breakfast) at 23,408 yen (~ 293 SGD) for two nights. Was satisfied with my stay here: reasonably sized room with walking space and equipped with all basic amenities. Convenient location makes this hotel a popular choice for travellers. 

======

What's nearby?

(1) Hakata JR Station, the busiest train station and gateway to other parts of Kyushu.

(2) Fukuoka city subway: Hakata Station (K11), on Kuko line (orange line)
- 3 stops away from Tenjin Station (K08). Transfer to Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu and Yanagawa.
- 2 stops away from Fukuoka Domestic Terminal (K13).

(3) JR Hakata City, connected seamlessly to the train station.
- Houses two shopping malls: AMU Plaza and Hankyu.
- Tokyu Hands is located near West exit of train station. Visit its first floor to shop for exclusive Kyushu souvenirs and JR Kyushu merchandises.
- Many fast food outlets, cafes and restaurants to choose from. Settled our breakfast at the train station on both days.

(4) Yodobashi-Hakata, well known electronics chain store in Japan.
- Exit from East (Chikusi) exit and turn right.
- g.u. (same owner as Uniqlo) and ABC Mart are located within the same building.

======

Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル
812-0013 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅東2-1-1(博多)
http://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/hakata/
Less than 2 mins walk from East exit (Chikusi exit).