Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

Stayed 15.03.2014 - 17.03.2014 (2 days)
Booked thru' Booking.com

- There are always many accommodation options near major train stations. Hakata was the first and last stop of my 12 days trip in Kyushu. Stayed in two different hotels - Hakata Miyako Hotel and JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Hakata Chuo, located within walking distance from East (Chikusi) and West exit of the train station. 

- Take the escalator up to second level where the hotel lobby is located. A cafe can be found on the same floor. Booked a twin room (without breakfast) at 23,408 yen (~ 293 SGD) for two nights. Was satisfied with my stay here: reasonably sized room with walking space and equipped with all basic amenities. Convenient location makes this hotel a popular choice for travellers. 

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What's nearby?

(1) Hakata JR Station, the busiest train station and gateway to other parts of Kyushu.

(2) Fukuoka city subway: Hakata Station (K11), on Kuko line (orange line)
- 3 stops away from Tenjin Station (K08). Transfer to Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu and Yanagawa.
- 2 stops away from Fukuoka Domestic Terminal (K13).

(3) JR Hakata City, connected seamlessly to the train station.
- Houses two shopping malls: AMU Plaza and Hankyu.
- Tokyu Hands is located near West exit of train station. Visit its first floor to shop for exclusive Kyushu souvenirs and JR Kyushu merchandises.
- Many fast food outlets, cafes and restaurants to choose from. Settled our breakfast at the train station on both days.

(4) Yodobashi-Hakata, well known electronics chain store in Japan.
- Exit from East (Chikusi) exit and turn right.
- g.u. (same owner as Uniqlo) and ABC Mart are located within the same building.

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Hakata Miyako Hotel 博多都ホテル

〒812－0013 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅東2-1-1（博多）

http://www.miyakohotels.ne.jp/hakata/
Less than 2 mins walk from East exit (Chikusi exit).

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Hakata JR Station 博多駅, JR Kyushu Rail Pass (Northern Kyushu & All Kyushu)

Hakata JR Station - East exit (Chikusi exit)

Hakata JR Station, the biggest (and busiest) train station in Kyushu.
Easily accessible by both subway from Fukuoka Airport and by Shinkansen from Honshu, Hakata JR Station serves as a gateway for many to other parts of Kyushu.

Main lines include:
(1) Kagoshima main line - travel northwards to Kokura, southwards to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(2) Kyushu Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

(3) Sanyo Shinkansen line - connecting Hakata to Shin Osaka. Operated by JR West. 

(4) Kuko line of Fukuoka City Subway.

Special sightseeing & limited express trains departing from Hakata JR Station include:
(1) Ltd Express Huis Ten Bosch - connects Hakata to Huis Ten Bosch, a European theme park located in Nagasaki prefecture.

(2) Ltd Express Kamome - connects Hakata to Saga and Nagasaki.

(3) Ltd Express Midori - connects Hakata to Saga and Sasebo.

(4) Ltd Express Sonic - connects Hakata to Oita and Beppu.

(5) Yufuin no mori - connects Hakata to Yufuin and Beppu.

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What's nearby? 

Hakata JR Station - West exit

(1) Shopping malls
- JR Hakata City, the building just above the train station, comprises of both AMU Plaza and Hankyu. For Tokyu Hands fans, you will be glad to know that there is one branch conveniently located here. Do check out their ground floor which has a section dedicated to Kyushu souvenirs - a good place to source for last minute gifts/merchandises.
- Yodobashi is located adjacent to the train station.
JR Hakata City: http://www.jrhakatacity.com/english/

(2) Numerous hotels to choose from.
Stayed at two different hotels during this trip.
- Hakata Miyako Hotel, 2 mins walk from east exit (Chikusi exit) of train station.
- JR Blossom Hakata Chuo Hotel, 2 mins walk from west exit of train station.

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JR Kyushu Rail Pass

- There are two different types of rail passes, both available in 3 and 5 days:   

(1) Northern Kyushu area, can only be used in Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki and Kumamoto 

(2) All Kyushu area

JR Kyushu: http://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/railpass.html

- Restrictions: Do note that this pass cannot be used on the Shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura, which is operated by JR West.

- Purchase: Rail pass can be purchased at main train stations in Kyushu (e.g. Kokura, Hakata, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, Oita, Saga, Kagoshima, Miyazaki, etc). In Hakata JR Station, there is a counter, served by English speaking staff, specially arranged for foreigners. After purchase of rail pass, you can proceed to make seats reservations immediately without having to queue again.  

- Be prepared! The only way to reap the most benefit/credits out from these rail passes is to do homework/research prior to purchase. Plan your itinerary and make use of Hyperdia to check the train fares between locations, then decide which pass suits you best. This pass can be used on Shinkansen, limited express and local trains operated by JR Kyushu and most importantly, no additional fees are required for seat reservations!
Hyperdia: http://www.hyperdia.com/

- One of the reasons to why train rides are so appealing in Kyushu is its seasonal sightseeing trains! Most of them operates on weekends and certain months, making only 1 - 3 trips per day, therefore it is advised to make reservations in advance to avoid disappointment.

- Was glad to know that in the second half of March, most of these sightseeing trains were also operating on weekdays due to cherry blooming season. Planned the ride of these sightseeing trains on the later half of my 12 days trip, as I would only purchase the rail pass and reserve seats on the day I arrive - thought I would stand a better chance to get my seats on these trains. Despite that effort made, some of the more popular train timings were already fully booked. Had to tweak my itinerary on the spot to fit in less popular train timings. Do have a backup plan in place, in anticipation for such last minute changes.

A good reference to find out past seasonal trains schedule: http://jprail.com/

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My sums:

(1) Northern Kyushu area 5 Days rail pass: 9,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: Hakata > Takeo Onsen, by Ltd Exp Midori; 3,000 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 2: Takeo Onsen > Huis Ten Bosch, by Ltd Exp Huis Ten Bosch; 1,730 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 3: 
• Huis Ten Bosch > Sasebo, by local train; 270 yen
• Sasebo > Nagasaki, by Seaside Liner; 1,600 yen
• Day 4: 
• Nagasaki > Shintosu, by Ltd Exp Kamome &
• Shintosu > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,700 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 5: Kumamoto > Aso by Aso Boy; 2,180 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 16,480 yen
Savings = 7,480 yen (45% discount)


(2) All Kyushu area 5 days rail pass: 17,000 yen (bef 1 Apr 2014)

• Day 1: -
• Day 2: 
• Yufuin > Kurume, by Yufuin no mori &
• Kurume > Kumamoto, by Shinkansen; 7,160 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 3: 
• Kumamoto > Hitoyoshi, by SL Hitoyoshi; 2,570 yen (reserved seat)
• Hitoyoshi > Yoshimatsu, by Isaburo; 1,220 yen (reserved seat)
• Yoshimatsu > Kagoshima chuo; by Hayato no kaze; 2,430 yen (reserved seat) 
• Day 4: Kagoshima chuo > Ibusuki by Ibusuki no tamatebako; 2,070 yen (reserved seat)
• Day 5: 
• Ibusuki > Kagoshima chuo, by local train; 970 yen
• Kagoshima chuo > Hakata, by Shinkansen; 10,170 yen (reserved seat)

Total cost without pass usage = 26,590 yen

Savings = 9,590 yen (36% discount)

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Commemorative stamp: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Arrival & Departure, Fukuoka Airport 福岡空港

Day 1: 15.03.2014

Day 13: 27.03.2014

Arrival: SIN T3 (0110 hrs) > FUK Int Terminal (0825 hrs) by SQ656

Departure: FUK Int Terminal (1000 hrs) > SIN T2 (1535 hrs) by SQ655

Currently only SQ has direct flights from Singapore Changi Airport to Fukuoka Airport in Kyushu. Others will require a connecting flight to reach Kyushu. 

Kyushu is made up of seven prefectures (Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Kagoshima and Miyazaki) and there is a airport in every prefecture. There are regular domestic flights between Haneda Airport and the airport in each prefecture, which means one do not necessarily have to depart from the same airport that you arrive in. 

Fukuoka Airport website: http://www.fuk-ab.co.jp/english/

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Travelling between Fukuoka Airport <> main city: 

(1) Subway: 
Fukuoka domestic airport and Hakata is separated by only one subway station and the travelling time takes less than 10 minutes! For passengers shuffling between domestic and international terminals, there are free regular shuttle bus services, every 5 - 8 minutes, commuting between these terminals.  

Fukuoka City Subway website: http://subway.city.fukuoka.lg.jp/eng/index.html
Hakata (K11) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen 
Tenjin (K08) <> Fukuoka Airport (K13) via Kuko line (orange line), fee = 260 yen

(2) Bus: 
Direct buses to Hakata/Tenjin are available at both international and domestic terminals and depart every half hourly. Took the bus at bus stop #2 and alighted at Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit. 

Nishitetsu bus website: http://www.nishitetsu.jp/en/access/
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Hakata, fee = 260 yen, approx 18 mins
Fukuoka Int Airport <> Tenjin, fee = 310 yen, approx 33 mins

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Commemorative stamp: 

Kyushu Spring 2014 九州春季之旅 - Day 1 Itinerary: Fukuoka 福岡

Day 1 - 15.03.2014

SIN T3 (0110 hrs) > FUK (0825 hrs) by SQ 656

Fukuoka Airport > Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit
by Nishitetsu Bus (for Hakata & Tenjin). Fee = 250 yen.

Check in: Hakata Miyako Hotel

Bought JR Kyushu Rail Passes and made seats reservation at Hakata JR Station.
- 5 days JR Kyushu Pass for northern area only (17.03.2014 - 21.03.2014): 9,000 yen
- 5 days JR Kyushu Pass (22.03.2014 - 26.03.2014): 17,000 yen

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Bought 1 day Fukuoka City Subway Pass. Fee = 500 yen.
* 500 yen on weekends & Public Holidays, 600 yen on weekdays.
[520 yen & 620 yen from Apr 2014 onwards] 

Hakata > Nakasu Kawabata
by subway, via Kuko Line.

Lunch: Ichiran Ramen (一蘭) @ Nakasu head shop & office

Shopping @ Canal City

Nakasu Kawabata 中州川端 > Ohori Park 大濠公園
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko Line.

Visited Maizuru Park 舞鶴公園.

Ohori Park 大濠公園 > Hakata 博多
by Fukuoka City Subway, via Kuko Line.

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Dinner: Hakata Hanamidori 博多華味鳥, branch @ Hakata JR Station Chikusi Exit.

Shopping @ AMU, Hankyu, Yodobashi

- End of Day 1 -

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Hakodate Airport 函館空港

Hakodate Airport: http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/
Approx 1 hr 20 mins between Hakodate and Haneda Airport.

Other flights:
- Domestic flights from Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo, Okushiri island and Misawa (in Aomori).
- International flights from Taipei and Seoul.

There are a handful of restaurants and shops housed within the airport. Had our dinner in Restaurant Pollux, located on third floor of the airport, before boarding our flight back to Haneda Airport.

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How to get there?
(1) Bus to Hakodate Airport (bus stop 11), bus stop located in front of Hakodate JR Station. 
- Bus schedule (between Hakodate JR Station and Hakodate Airport): http://www.airport.ne.jp/hakodate/en/time_schedule/bus/en.shtml
- Bus schedule (in Japanese): http://www.hakonavi.ne.jp/howto/time.html
Approx 20 mins; fee = 410 yen

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Commemorative stamps:

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse 函館金森赤レンガ倉庫

Visited 13.02.2013

Our last stop before heading home was to this prominent landmark of Hakodate. Hakodate Port, opened in 1859, was one of Japan's first international ports, alongside Nagasaki and Yokohama. During those days, flourishing trade businesses increased the demand of warehouses near the bayside. Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, the first commercial warehouse in Hakodate, was constructed then. The bustling trade port has become a scene of the past and the bay area has been transformed into an entertainment district. These warehouses have stepped down from their original function (for goods storage) and converted into shops and restaurants.

Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse is made up of three areas:

(1) Bay Hakodate: Houses Hakodate Music Box Museum, operated by the same company (Orgel Doh) who owns Otaru Music Box Museum. The rest are mainly souvenir shops.

(2) Kanemori Aka-renga Soko (金森洋物館): Spent most of my time in this area. Whole array of souvenirs can be found here. Some of us may be familiar with Pastry Snaffle's, which has two branches in Singapore currently (in Plaza Singapura & Bedok Mall). This famous cheese cake confectionery brand originated from Hakodate and has several shops/cafes in Hokkaido - one of them is located in this warehouse. Ironically, my first encounter with Pastry Snaffle's cheese cake was in Singapore (not in Hokkaido where it originated from) and I liked it alot - as I am a fan of rich and creamy cheese cakes! Hope to visit their cafes next time in Hokkaido...
Pastry Snaffle's: http://www.snaffles.jp/english/

(3) Hakodate History Plaza (函館ヒストリープラザ): Houses Hakodate Beer Hall, Hakodate Roman-kan (shop selling glass crafted products) and other wagon shops.

All in all, Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse is quite a touristy place - you can find repetitive items sold in different stalls. After doing your shopping in these warehouses, I will recommend visitors to take a leisure stroll along Hakodate Bay - enjoy the sea breeze and at the same time, admire these historical monuments once again.

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Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse 函館金森赤レンガ倉庫

http://www.hakodate-kanemori.com/en/

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How to get there? 

(1) By streetcar.
Take streetcar #2 (heading towards Yachigashira 谷地頭) or #5 (heading towards Hakodate Dokku-mae 函館どっく前), alight at Jujigai 十字街. Walk towards Hakodate Bay. 

Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Gotoken Curry Express 五島軒 函館カリーエクスプレス, Hasegawasutoa ハセガワストア

Visited 13.02.2013

(1) Gotoken Curry Express

Was time for lunch after visiting Goryokaku Tower. Chanced upon Gotoken Curry Express, located on the second floor of the tower and decided to give it a try. Gotoken, a restaurant that was established more than a century ago, started out selling western cuisines. However, curry became Gotoken's signature dish later on (during Taisho period between 1912 - 1926). This was created based on a recipe which was improvised by the second generation owner who had undergone training in Imperial Hotel then. 

The main restaurant, located near Jujigai, still offer western cuisines. This other smaller branch specialises in mainly curry items - pork, beef and seafood curry cooked in various ways such as English, French and Indian. The gravy are served in English style silver sauce boats unlike Japanese curry restaurant. Very thick and dark curry gravy, a blend of roux and their homemade broth, which tasted both sweet and spicy. Personally I still prefer the soup curry version. Gotoken also sells packaged curries, enabling one to savour again back at home.

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(2) Hasegawasutoa Convenience Store

Skewers cooked on the spot. 

Sometimes, tasty food pops up in unexpected places - which makes food hunting such a pleasure! Hasegawasutoa, is a convenience store chain found only in Hakodate. In Japan, its common to find ready-to-go bento in convenience stores. However, in Hasegawasutoa, they only make your bento box upon order. What is most unusual is that their well known yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) are actually made of pork and not chicken, entirely different from what its name implied! Pork is more readily available and cheaper than chicken as there are more pig farms in South of Hokkaido, therefore pork has been used in meat skewers in Hakodate traditionally. To prevent misunderstanding as well, the lids of these bento boxes are imprinted with an adorable pig cartoon.

Chose the salt flavour. Each bento comes with three skewers, each with alternating pieces of pork and stalks of green onion, served with rice at the bottom. We were amazed by how these simple looking grilled meat skewers were exceptionally tasty! The juicy meat and crunchy green onion makes you want to eat more with every bite. It's a pity that we only had one box (as we already had our lunch)... Apart from the plentiful fresh seafood that Hakodate has to offer, please do not miss out this "B grade gourmet" when you visit Hakodate!

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(1) Gotoken 五島軒 函館カリーエクスプレス

http://www.gotoken.hakodate.jp/express/default.htm

(2) Hasegawasutoa ハセガワストア - Goryokaku branch
Opens 24 hours. 

http://www.hasesuto.co.jp

Other branches: 

Spotted another branch near Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, which is easily recognisable by the big bento box display. Store is just located adjacent to Lucky Pierrot restaurant.