Day 3 - 05.02.2013 (Tue)
Breakfast: Kushiro Royal Inn
Early lunch: Washo Market (和商市场)
Kushiro JR Station (1109 hrs) > Shibecha JR Station (1224 hrs)
by DL Fuyu-no-Shitsugen Train.
Fee = 1,340 yen
Joined JR Twinkle Bus Course (1240 - 1615 hrs).
(1) Shibecha-Kawayu Line: visited Lake Mashu and Mt Iwo. Fee = 1,000 yen
(2) Kawayu-Utoro Line: visited Oshinkoshi Falls. Fee = 1,000 yen
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Check in: Shiretoko Grand Hotel Kitakobushi
Dinner: Shiretoko Grand Hotel Kitakobushi
Watched 27th Shiretoko Aurora Fantasia at 2000 hrs.
- End of Day 3 -
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Fisherman's Wharf MOO 釧路フィッシャーマンズワーフMOO
Visited 04.02.2013
Decided to stroll to Fisherman's Wharf MOO after a fulfilling dinner in Robata. MOO faces Kushiro River and is located near Kushiro's busy fishing port and scenic Nusamai Bridge. Read in many travel guide books that this area boosts a spectacular sunset view, therefore it will be good to drop by for a evening stroll to admire the beautiful scenery (unfortunately, sky was already totally dark when we finished our dinner).
One of the few, large scale shopping complexes in Kushiro, MOO is made of three levels of shops and eateries. The ground level comprises of a wet seafood market and shops selling Hokkaido's favourite souvenirs, dried seafood such as scallops and squids (some of them are available for taste testing before you decide to purchase). Most of the shops were about to close (1900 hrs) when we arrived. Overall, the place is quiet (with few shoppers mingling around) and shops are pretty repetitive here, whereby you can spot many similar products among different stalls. I suppose MOO should be more "lively" in the morning with the wet market in operation. Restaurants occupy the second and third floor and close much later at 2200 hrs.
Do you know? In the evenings, from May to October, special tentages are set up outside MOO, with numerous food stalls serving robata-yaki, one of Kushiro's well-known delicacies. What a great way to spent the evening savouring fresh seafood on the grill just beside the scenic Kushiro river!
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Fisherman's Wharf MOO 釧路フィッシャーマンズワーフMOO
北海道钏路市锦町2-4
From Kushiro JR Station, walk straight along Kita dori for about 15 mins.
http://www.moo946.com/
View Larger Map
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Video: Place was featured in 《Women 爱旅行》. Fast forward to 13:35 to see their feature on Fisherman's Wharf MOO.
Decided to stroll to Fisherman's Wharf MOO after a fulfilling dinner in Robata. MOO faces Kushiro River and is located near Kushiro's busy fishing port and scenic Nusamai Bridge. Read in many travel guide books that this area boosts a spectacular sunset view, therefore it will be good to drop by for a evening stroll to admire the beautiful scenery (unfortunately, sky was already totally dark when we finished our dinner).
 |
| - Nusamai Bridge across Kushiro River - |
Do you know? In the evenings, from May to October, special tentages are set up outside MOO, with numerous food stalls serving robata-yaki, one of Kushiro's well-known delicacies. What a great way to spent the evening savouring fresh seafood on the grill just beside the scenic Kushiro river!
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Fisherman's Wharf MOO 釧路フィッシャーマンズワーフMOO
北海道钏路市锦町2-4
From Kushiro JR Station, walk straight along Kita dori for about 15 mins.
http://www.moo946.com/
View Larger Map
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Video: Place was featured in 《Women 爱旅行》. Fast forward to 13:35 to see their feature on Fisherman's Wharf MOO.
Sunday, July 28, 2013
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Robata 炉ばた
Visited 04.02.2013
Robata-yaki is actually similar to our conventional barbecue whereby food is grilled over charcoal fire. This form of Japanese cuisine is common among fishermen and is said to have originated from Kushiro, the place with abundant fresh seafood.
Came to know about Robata through various travel guidebooks and programmes. This restaurant has been around for half a century, specialising in robata-yaki all this while. Took some time to locate this restaurant as there were several other shops found in the same cluster (do keep a lookout for the signboard and lantern imprinted with 炉ばた). In the restaurant, an old lady (who is the chef behind all the delicious robata-yaki) takes the "center stage", while customers are seated around her and the hot charcoal grill. Area was dimly lit and at most 15 people seating occupancy. Both English and Mandarin menus were available, but the price of every food item was not specified. Therefore, do check out the price of the items (especially seafood) with the staff before you place the order.
Ordered:
(1) Seafood - Squid stuffed with miso paste, mackerel pike (秋刀鱼), Okhotsk atka mackerel (花鲫鱼) and scallop.
- All agreed that the squid stuffed with the restaurant's very own miso receipe was the winner in Robata! As most of us know, squid is easily overcooked and can become hard to chew. However, the squid here was cooked to perfection and all credits go to the chef with many years of dedicated experience in front of the hot charcoal grill. The miso paste, tasted both sour and sweet, was very appetising and went well with the squid.
- Okhotsk atka mackerel was grilled to crisp light brown colour, retaining the fatty texture and taste of the fish.
(2) Meat - Skewered pork meat which comes either dipped in sauce or lightly salted.
Meat was so tender and delicious which made us craved for more (and we did order two additional sticks in the end).
(3) Vegetables - Eggplant, shittake mushroom and asparagus.
Bill: 9,950 yen. Not overly expensive considering we ordered quite a number of seafood items for four persons.
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Robata 炉ばた
北海道釧路市栄町3丁目1
Opening hours: 1700 - 0000 hrs (till 2300 hrs in winter), closed on Sundays.
http://www.robata.cc/index.html
View Larger Map
======
Video: Restaurant was featured in 《Women 爱旅行》. Fast forward to 43:10 for their recommendation on Robata.
Robata-yaki is actually similar to our conventional barbecue whereby food is grilled over charcoal fire. This form of Japanese cuisine is common among fishermen and is said to have originated from Kushiro, the place with abundant fresh seafood.
Came to know about Robata through various travel guidebooks and programmes. This restaurant has been around for half a century, specialising in robata-yaki all this while. Took some time to locate this restaurant as there were several other shops found in the same cluster (do keep a lookout for the signboard and lantern imprinted with 炉ばた). In the restaurant, an old lady (who is the chef behind all the delicious robata-yaki) takes the "center stage", while customers are seated around her and the hot charcoal grill. Area was dimly lit and at most 15 people seating occupancy. Both English and Mandarin menus were available, but the price of every food item was not specified. Therefore, do check out the price of the items (especially seafood) with the staff before you place the order.
Ordered:
(1) Seafood - Squid stuffed with miso paste, mackerel pike (秋刀鱼), Okhotsk atka mackerel (花鲫鱼) and scallop.
- All agreed that the squid stuffed with the restaurant's very own miso receipe was the winner in Robata! As most of us know, squid is easily overcooked and can become hard to chew. However, the squid here was cooked to perfection and all credits go to the chef with many years of dedicated experience in front of the hot charcoal grill. The miso paste, tasted both sour and sweet, was very appetising and went well with the squid.
- Okhotsk atka mackerel was grilled to crisp light brown colour, retaining the fatty texture and taste of the fish.
(2) Meat - Skewered pork meat which comes either dipped in sauce or lightly salted.
Meat was so tender and delicious which made us craved for more (and we did order two additional sticks in the end).
(3) Vegetables - Eggplant, shittake mushroom and asparagus.
Bill: 9,950 yen. Not overly expensive considering we ordered quite a number of seafood items for four persons.
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Robata 炉ばた
北海道釧路市栄町3丁目1
Opening hours: 1700 - 0000 hrs (till 2300 hrs in winter), closed on Sundays.
http://www.robata.cc/index.html
View Larger Map
======
Video: Restaurant was featured in 《Women 爱旅行》. Fast forward to 43:10 for their recommendation on Robata.
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Kushiro City Marsh Observatory 钏路市湿原展望台
Visited 04.02.2013
As the sightseeing taxi was hired for three hours and there was time left after visiting Akan International Crane Center, our taxi driver recommended this place as it was along the way back to Kushiro town.
Background: Kushiro Marsh is the largest wetland in Japan, home to almost 2000 different species of plants and animals. It is also first Japanese marsh registered under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands.
Various ways to get closer to this protected wetland:
(1) Hop onto the train travelling northwards along the Senmo main line from Kushiro JR Station as this train route goes through Kushiro Marsh. Take the limited period SL Fuyu-no-Shitsugen Train operating from January to March or Kushiro Shitsugen Norokko Train operating from May to September, as they allow passengers to take a closer look at the wetland while travelling at a slower speed. Had the chance to sit in DL Fuyu-no-Shitsugen Train during this trip (the steam locomotive version was out for repair at that point in time).
(2) Alight at Kushiro Shitsugen JR Station (釧路湿原駅) and walk to Hosooka Observatory (細岡展望台). This observatory provides a panoramic scenery of this natural landscape - Kushiro river winding its way through the wetland. Did not manage to visit the observatory during this trip.
Location of Hosooka Observatory:
View Larger Map
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Highlights:
- Exhibition hall provides information on the importance of Kushiro Marsh as a life support for many species of plants, fishes and animals (majority of the displays in Japanese though). Both the observation lounge and rooftop area on the third floor provides a good view of this massive wetland. Later found out that this place was much larger than I thought after reading the brochure. Walkway that spans a distance of 2.5 km (takes about an hour to cover) in the same premise allows visitors to come closer to nature. Personally felt that it will be better visit this place in summer when extensive lush greenery can be seen.
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Kushiro City Marsh Observatory 钏路市湿原展望台
Admission Fee = 460 yen
Opening hours: 0830 - 1800 hrs (1 May - 31 Oct); 0900 - 1700 hrs (1 Nov - 30 Apr)
http://www.kushiro-kankou.or.jp/tenboudai/
http://city.hokkai.or.jp/~kkr946/tenbou_shitsugen.html
View Larger Map
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How to get there?
(1) Local bus. From Kushiro JR Station (釧路駅前), take Tsurui, Hororo line (鹤居线，幌呂线). Alight at Kushiro City Marsh Observatory (釧路湿原展望台) bus stop. Bus journey takes 40 mins. Around 6 round trips per day.
Refer to bus schedule: http://www.akanbus.co.jp/localbu/senkawa.htm
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Commemorative stamp:
As the sightseeing taxi was hired for three hours and there was time left after visiting Akan International Crane Center, our taxi driver recommended this place as it was along the way back to Kushiro town.
Background: Kushiro Marsh is the largest wetland in Japan, home to almost 2000 different species of plants and animals. It is also first Japanese marsh registered under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands.
Various ways to get closer to this protected wetland:
(1) Hop onto the train travelling northwards along the Senmo main line from Kushiro JR Station as this train route goes through Kushiro Marsh. Take the limited period SL Fuyu-no-Shitsugen Train operating from January to March or Kushiro Shitsugen Norokko Train operating from May to September, as they allow passengers to take a closer look at the wetland while travelling at a slower speed. Had the chance to sit in DL Fuyu-no-Shitsugen Train during this trip (the steam locomotive version was out for repair at that point in time).
(2) Alight at Kushiro Shitsugen JR Station (釧路湿原駅) and walk to Hosooka Observatory (細岡展望台). This observatory provides a panoramic scenery of this natural landscape - Kushiro river winding its way through the wetland. Did not manage to visit the observatory during this trip.
Location of Hosooka Observatory:
View Larger Map
======
Highlights:
- Exhibition hall provides information on the importance of Kushiro Marsh as a life support for many species of plants, fishes and animals (majority of the displays in Japanese though). Both the observation lounge and rooftop area on the third floor provides a good view of this massive wetland. Later found out that this place was much larger than I thought after reading the brochure. Walkway that spans a distance of 2.5 km (takes about an hour to cover) in the same premise allows visitors to come closer to nature. Personally felt that it will be better visit this place in summer when extensive lush greenery can be seen.
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| - Admission ticket - |
Kushiro City Marsh Observatory 钏路市湿原展望台
Admission Fee = 460 yen
Opening hours: 0830 - 1800 hrs (1 May - 31 Oct); 0900 - 1700 hrs (1 Nov - 30 Apr)
http://www.kushiro-kankou.or.jp/tenboudai/
http://city.hokkai.or.jp/~kkr946/tenbou_shitsugen.html
View Larger Map
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How to get there?
(1) Local bus. From Kushiro JR Station (釧路駅前), take Tsurui, Hororo line (鹤居线，幌呂线). Alight at Kushiro City Marsh Observatory (釧路湿原展望台) bus stop. Bus journey takes 40 mins. Around 6 round trips per day.
Refer to bus schedule: http://www.akanbus.co.jp/localbu/senkawa.htm
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Commemorative stamp:
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Akan International Crane Center 阿寒国際ツルセンター
Visited 04.02.2013
Pictures of Tancho, otherwise known as red crowned crane, can be found almost everywhere in Kushiro - airport, on bus stop shelters, road signs and even manhole covers! Reason being, Kushiro Marsh, the largest wetland in Japan, is the home to this endangered species. If you are lucky and observant enough, real Tanchos can also be spotted while travelling on the road within Kushiro.
Background: Uncontrolled hunting and habitat destruction led to decline in Tancho population in the late 19th century. Measures were subsequently implemented by local government to preserve and protect Tancho and their natural habitat (Kushiro Marsh). Akan district in Kushiro subprefecture is where artificial feeding of cranes first started. Akan International Crane Center was later established in 20th century to reach out to the public on their conservation and research efforts.
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- Hired a sightseeing taxi to get to the place as public buses were infrequent. Managed to cover Kushiro City Marsh Observatory within the three hours duration.
- Main building houses an exhibition hall providing all information you want to know about Tancho (mainly in Japanese though) and a shop selling souvenirs - postcards, ornaments, books, etc, all featuring Tancho in various forms.
- During winter, food is scarce in the snow covered wetlands and artificial feeding of cranes takes place in Tancho Observation Centre, located just beside the main building. Approximately 100 - 200 cranes flock to this place in search of food during the cold winter season. Many visitors (especially professional photographers) flock to this place (only open from November to March) too but with a totally different purpose - to capture phenomenal photos of the beautiful crane. Seeing the dynamic behaviours of 100 cranes right in front of my eyes did leave me speechless - truly an amazing and unforgettable sight! In Tancho Observation Centre, all photographers were battling the cold weather outdoors, standing by with their sophisticated camera equipment, waiting for the very right moment, competing to snap the winning and precious shot.
Wish fulfilled - to be able to meet this bird symbol of Hokkaido in person!
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Akan International Crane Center 阿寒国際ツルセンター
23-40, Akan-cho, Kushiro city, Hokkaido, 085-0245, Japan
Admission Fee = 460 yen
Main building: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Annex (Tancho Observation Center): 0830 - 1630 hrs (only open from 1 Nov to 31 Mar)
http://www.tecs.jp/photobook/tancho/
View Larger Map
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How to get there?
(1) Local bus. From Kushiro JR Station (釧路駅前), take bus bound for Akanko Onsen (阿寒湖温泉) and alight at Tancho-no Sato (丹頂の里). Bus journey takes 70 mins. About four round trips per day.
Refer to bus schedule: http://www.akanbus.co.jp/localbu/akan.htm
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Commemorative stamp:
Pictures of Tancho, otherwise known as red crowned crane, can be found almost everywhere in Kushiro - airport, on bus stop shelters, road signs and even manhole covers! Reason being, Kushiro Marsh, the largest wetland in Japan, is the home to this endangered species. If you are lucky and observant enough, real Tanchos can also be spotted while travelling on the road within Kushiro.
 |
| - Tancho imprinted on manhole covers and bus shelters in Kushiro - |
======
- Hired a sightseeing taxi to get to the place as public buses were infrequent. Managed to cover Kushiro City Marsh Observatory within the three hours duration.
- Main building houses an exhibition hall providing all information you want to know about Tancho (mainly in Japanese though) and a shop selling souvenirs - postcards, ornaments, books, etc, all featuring Tancho in various forms.
- During winter, food is scarce in the snow covered wetlands and artificial feeding of cranes takes place in Tancho Observation Centre, located just beside the main building. Approximately 100 - 200 cranes flock to this place in search of food during the cold winter season. Many visitors (especially professional photographers) flock to this place (only open from November to March) too but with a totally different purpose - to capture phenomenal photos of the beautiful crane. Seeing the dynamic behaviours of 100 cranes right in front of my eyes did leave me speechless - truly an amazing and unforgettable sight! In Tancho Observation Centre, all photographers were battling the cold weather outdoors, standing by with their sophisticated camera equipment, waiting for the very right moment, competing to snap the winning and precious shot.
Wish fulfilled - to be able to meet this bird symbol of Hokkaido in person!
======
Akan International Crane Center 阿寒国際ツルセンター
23-40, Akan-cho, Kushiro city, Hokkaido, 085-0245, Japan
Admission Fee = 460 yen
Main building: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Annex (Tancho Observation Center): 0830 - 1630 hrs (only open from 1 Nov to 31 Mar)
http://www.tecs.jp/photobook/tancho/
View Larger Map
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How to get there?
(1) Local bus. From Kushiro JR Station (釧路駅前), take bus bound for Akanko Onsen (阿寒湖温泉) and alight at Tancho-no Sato (丹頂の里). Bus journey takes 70 mins. About four round trips per day.
Refer to bus schedule: http://www.akanbus.co.jp/localbu/akan.htm
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Commemorative stamp:
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Kushiro Royal Inn 釧路ロイヤルイン
Stayed 04.02.2013 (1 night)
Booked via email (info@royalinn.jp).
- Twin room cost 9,100 yen, inclusive of breakfast. Small room size but equipped with all the necessities and amenities. Front desk was approachable and patient to cater to our needs, and helped to arrange a sightseeing taxi to get to Akan International Crane Center, despite not being very well-versed in English.
- Strategic location of the hotel - less than 3 mins walk from Kushiro JR Station. Upon stepping out of the train station, look to your right and Kushiro Royal Inn is located just behind a church. Washo Market (和商市场) is a stone throw away from the hotel as well. Taxis are also readily available in front of train station.
- There is a good selection of hotels are available nearby Kushiro JR Station. Eventually decided on Royal Inn after reading multiple rave reviews commending on their sumptuous spread of breakfast. Restaurant is located on the 10th floor (only open during breakfast hours), providing a good view of Kushiro city. I can only say the variety of bread served for breakfast was incredible, definitely comparable to what you get in a traditional bakery! Bread was fresh from the oven and tasted delicious. Buffet table also provided a good spread of both Japanese and Western cuisine. Definitely a fulfilling breakfast to start off one's day!
- Unable to access the reservation page on their English website and had to do it via email (info@royalinn.jp). Do ask for non-smoking rooms if you do not like the lingering smell of nicotine in the room.
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Kushiro Royal Inn 釧路ロイヤルイン
北海道钏路市黑金町14-9-2
http://www.royalinn.jp/
View Larger Map
Booked via email (info@royalinn.jp).
- Twin room cost 9,100 yen, inclusive of breakfast. Small room size but equipped with all the necessities and amenities. Front desk was approachable and patient to cater to our needs, and helped to arrange a sightseeing taxi to get to Akan International Crane Center, despite not being very well-versed in English.
- Strategic location of the hotel - less than 3 mins walk from Kushiro JR Station. Upon stepping out of the train station, look to your right and Kushiro Royal Inn is located just behind a church. Washo Market (和商市场) is a stone throw away from the hotel as well. Taxis are also readily available in front of train station.
- Unable to access the reservation page on their English website and had to do it via email (info@royalinn.jp). Do ask for non-smoking rooms if you do not like the lingering smell of nicotine in the room.
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Kushiro Royal Inn 釧路ロイヤルイン
北海道钏路市黑金町14-9-2
http://www.royalinn.jp/
View Larger Map
Hokkaido Winter 2013 北海道冬季之旅 - Kushiro JR Station 钏路駅
Kushiro JR Station (K53), on Nemuro main line.
Super Ozora, limited express train serves between Sapporo and Kushiro.
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- Kushiro Airport is about 45 mins bus ride away from Kushiro JR Station.
Bus schedule: http://www.akanbus.co.jp/airport/index.html
- Kushiro JR Station is the interchange train station for Nemuro main line and Senmo main line:
(1) travel westwards along the Nemuro main line to Obihiro.
(2) travel eastwards along the Nemuro main line to Nemuro.
Do you know? Those who know Japanese manga series well may be familiar with Lupin III (ルパン三世). The artist behind this masterpiece was born in Hamanaka, a small town that lies along the train route between Kushiro and Nemuro. To commemorate the success of this manga series, some of the train carriages serving the route between Kushiro and Nemuro are wrapped with pictures featuring characters from Lupin III.
Check out the date of travel for this train: http://www.jrkushiro.jp/lupintrain.html
(3) travel northwards along the Senmo main line to Kawayu Onsen, Shiretoko-shari and Abashiri.
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What's nearby?
(1) Washo Market (和商巿场): less than 5 mins walk from train station. As Kushiro has one of the biggest fishing port in Hokkaido, a wide selection of the freshest seafood can be found in this market. Get a bowl of Kushiro's specialty Katte don here - rice bowl topped up with your favourite treasures of the sea!
(2) Hotels
Similar to Obihiro, many business hotel chains have set up branches around the train station, such as Route Inn, Toyoko Inn, Comfort Hotel and Super Hotel. Stayed in Kushiro Royal Inn for one night during this trip.
(3) Fisherman's Wharf MOO & Nusamai Bridge (幣舞桥): walk straight along Kita Odori for about 15 mins. Nusamai Bridge is well-known for its scenic spot for sunset viewing - did not manage to catch that during this trip.
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Commemorative stamp:
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