Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Joeiji Sesshutei 常栄寺雪舟庭

Visited 26.04.2015 (Sun)

Heritage. Visited Joeiji as part of the two hours sightseeing taxi course in the morning. Apart from Rurikoji and its five storied pagoda, this is another place I will recommend to visit if you are in Yamaguchi City, more so if you are a fan of gardens. The unusually laidback and quaint atmosphere experienced in Yamaguchi City, the capital city of Yamaguchi Prefecture was something I adore a lot. Coupled with a rich heritage, I personally find that this former castle town definitely has much more to offer than I initially thought. How the ruling of Ouchi and Mori clan shaped the lives of the people and influence the landscape here across centuries and the coexistence of both Buddhism and Christianity in the city are just some of the virtues for visitors to delve deeper into.

Background. It is said that Sesshutei was ordered to be built by Lord Masahiro Ouchi, and Sesshu, a notable landscape painter and priest well versed in Chinese paintings, was tasked to design and create this garden. Designated as a National Historic Site and Scenic Beauty in 1926, the 3,000 m2 wide inner garden is a fine reproduction of a Shan Shui painting (山水画) from Sesshu. In the middle of the garden is a pond which is supposed to resemble the kanji character for heart (心). Surrounding the pond is a rock garden and such style of standing stones is a distinctive feature of garden originated during the Muromachi era (1336 – 1573). There is a dedicated walking path around Sesshutei for visitors to capture a 360 degree view of this beautifully landscaped garden. After a leisure stroll to soak yourself fully into the zen ambience, head down to Hondou (本堂), the main building in Joeiji Temple. The Hondou serves as an excellent viewing gallery for visitors to sit down comfortably to admire the living picture of Sesshutei.

Spot mini Mt Fuji! While we were engrossed into this masterpiece created by Sesshu, our taxi driver directed our attention to one of the rocks in the garden. Due to its upright triangular shape, this particular rock has been referred to as the mini Fuji-san in Sesshutei. See whether you can spot this iconic rock in the garden!

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Joeiji Sesshutei 常栄寺雪舟庭
〒753-0011 山口県山口市宮野下2001-1
Operating hours: 0800 - 1700 hrs (Dec to Mar: 0800 - 1630 hrs)
Admission fee = 300 yen
http://sesshu.jp/

How to get there?

(1) Bus.
- From Yamaguchi JR Station, walk 10 minutes to Yamaguchi Shiyakusho-mae 山口市役所前 bus stop, take Kocho Bus 坊長バス heading for Miyano 宮野. Alight at Sesshutei Iriguchi 雪舟庭入口 and walk for another 10 minutes.
Bus fare = 230 yen (Shiyakusho-mae to Sesshutei Iriguchi)
- From Yamaguchi JR Station, board either JR Chugoku Bus or Kocho Bus 坊長バス, heading for Kencho-mae 県庁前 and alight at Kencho-mae. From here, take Kocho Bus 坊長バス heading for Miyano 宮野. Alight at Sesshutei Iriguchi 雪舟庭入口 and walk for another 10 minutes.
Bus fare = 200 yen (Kencho-mae to Sesshutei Iriguchi)

Bus schedule: http://www.city.yamaguchi.lg.jp/uploaded/life/40241_66647_misc.pdf
- Look under 陸上競技場 ⇔ 県庁前 ⇔ 江良 ⇔ 宮野, for buses departing from Shiyakusho-mae and Kencho-mae fro Sesshutei Iriguchi.
- Look under 防府駅 ⇒ 小鯖 ⇒ 大内 ⇒ 山口駅・県庁前, for buses departing from Yamaguchi JR Station for Kencho-mae.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Rurikoji Gojunodo (Five Storied Pagoda) 瑠璃光寺五重塔

Visited 26.04.2015 (Sun)

Sightseeing taxi tour. Found out about this attractive taxi sightseeing tour package, a collaboration between Yuda Onsen Tourist Association and the local taxi companies, and is specially catered for guests staying in Yuda Onsen. There are two routes to choose from, an hour (2,000 yen/pax) or two hours (3,000 yen/pax) course, both covering places of interest within Yamaguchi city. Selected the latter which included the following attractions:
- Xavier Memorial Church サビエル記念聖堂
- Hanchomon 藩庁門
- Rurikoji and Gojunodo 瑠璃光寺五重塔
- Joeiji Sesshutei 常栄寺雪舟庭
- St Xavier Memorial Monument サビエル公園　

Wanted very much to visit Gojunodo in Rurikoji but was facing some difficulties to slot it into my itinerary. However, with this option made available, I was able to meet my objective and in addition, explore other attractions which I have not thought of originally. Do check out this affordable tour package, especially if you are spending a night in one of the hotels/ryokans in Yuda Onsen.
More information (in Japanese):
http://www.oidemase.or.jp/tourism-information/spots/16761
http://www.yudaonsen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/876e482e7b08cf5c173c751a515d50aa.pdf

National Treasure. The icon of Yamaguchi city, the Gojunodo 五重塔 or five storied pagoda was built around 1442 and is ranked as one of the three most outstanding pagoda in Japan. The entire structure standing at 31.2 m tall is strategically located at the back of a pond in Kozan Koen (the park in Rurikoji) and surrounded by lush greenery, making it such a photogenic structure and beauty to look at in various angles. One of the best photo taking spot recommended by my taxi driver was to stand in front of the pond to capture both the pagoda and its reflection on the surface of the calm waters in the pond.

Background. The five storied pagoda was designated as a National Building in 1903 and was built in commemoration of Lord Ouchi Yoshihiro (大内義弘), a Muromachi period samurai clan head and military leader. The Ouchi clan ruled the castle town of Yamaguchi in the 12th to 14th century and it is said that the Lord Ouchi had a yearning to live in a city that resembled Kyoto and that led to the development/planning of Yamaguchi to look like Kyoto. Was once referred to as "the Kyoto of the West", Yamaguchi was known as a place of peace and prosperity where many court nobles came to to avoid war-torn Kyoto then. The current location where Gojunodo is situated in originally belonged to Koshakuji Temple. The temple shifted its premises to Hagi during the early Edo period and Rurikoji Temple took over its previous site.

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Rurikoji Gojunodo (Five Storied Pagoda) 瑠璃光寺五重塔
〒753-0081 山口県山口市香山町7-1
Operating hours:
Free admission
http://yamaguchi-city.jp/details/aa_ruri_tou.html

How to get there? 

(1) Yamaguchi-shi Community Bus 山口市コミュニティバス.
From the bus stop in front of Yamaguchi JR Station 山口駅, take the Yamaguchi Community Bus Ochi Route (大内ルート) heading for Rurikoji Gojunodo and alight at the last stop.
Website: http://www.city.yamaguchi.lg.jp/soshiki/73/2006.html
Bus schedule: http://www.city.yamaguchi.lg.jp/uploaded/attachment/1317.pdf
Bus fare = 200 yen

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Day 11 Mine 美祢, Nagato Yumoto Onsen 長門湯本温泉

Day 11: 26.04.2015
* Day 4 of 7 Days Sanyo & San'in Area Pass

Akiyoshidou

Breakfast: Kokian 古希庵

Hired 2 hours sightseeing taxi for 6,000 yen. [2,000 yen/pax] (*increased to 3,000 yen/pax)
- Xavier Memorial Church サビエル記念聖堂
- Hanchomon 藩庁門
- Rurikoji and Five Storied Pagoda 瑠璃光寺五重塔
- Koeiji Sesshutei Garden 常栄寺雪舟庭
- St Xavier Memorial Monument サビエル公園　

Yuda Onsen Bus Stop 6 (1228 hrs) > Akiyoshidou Bus Center 秋芳洞バスセンター (1310 hrs)
by JR Chugoku Bus. [1,140 yen]

Akiyoshidai

Visited Akiyoshidou 秋芳洞 & Akiyoshidai 秋吉台.
http://www.karusuto.com/

Akiyoshidou Bus Center 秋芳洞バスセンター > Mine JR 美祢駅
by taxi. [~4,500 yen]

Mine JR 美祢駅 (1705 hrs) > Nagato Yumoto JR 長門湯本駅 (1733 hrs)
by local train, via Mine line 美祢線.

Checked in: Gyokusenkaku 玉仙閣
http://www.gyokusenkaku.com/

Explored area around Otozure River 音信川.

Dinner: Gyokusenkaku 玉仙閣

- End of Day 11 - 

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵

Stayed 25.04.2015 (Sat)
Reserved thru' Jalan.net.
Room 206 Kirinso 麒麟草; three person with half board = 34,560 yen/pax

Most luxurious. Being one of the most popular hot spring town in Yamaguchi Prefecture, there were numerous accommodation options to choose from here in Yuda Onsen. Had in mind to avoid more touristy or commercialised hotels/ryokans and eventually landed on Kokian after some research. With only 16 rooms available, it met my first criteria of not being too crowded. Having said that, this would mean that I have to pay a much higher price to enjoy this privilege. Indeed, based on the price per night stay here, I will classify Kokian as a luxury or high end accommodation. Was contemplating whether I should splurge on an expensive stay while on the other hand, I was deeply attracted to the overall concept of Kokian depicted on its homepage. Eventually, my desire fueled my decision and I chalked up the most pricey stay in Yuda Onsen in this Chugoku episode. I have to say that Kokian lived up to expectations (and price of course) and what I found best about Kokian is how they managed to create this secluded setting despite being surrounded by major roads, other high rise hotels and residential buildings.

Omotenashi. Right from the moment we met the ryokan staff at Yuda Onsen JR Station, we were already showered by the strong omentonashi spirit displayed by Japanese. A well groomed man who was in his sixties and extremely eloquent in English came to pick us up at the train station. Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by a lady staff who was already waiting for us at the entrance. The lounge was spacious and has a japanese western outlook. Warm towel was handed over to us and kombu tea was served while check-in procedure was proceeded smoothly. As usual, we were given a brief introduction of the facilities the hotel was equipped with, questions such as what our preferred dinning timings were for both meals and whether we had any dietary allergies were asked. Upon request, they also helped to reserve this 1 hour course sightseeing taxi (a collaboration between Yuda Onsen Ryokan Association and local taxi) for the next morning which we utilised to visit Rurikoji Pagoda 瑠璃光寺五重塔 and liaise with the staff of Gyokusenkaku (the accommodation we stayed on the following day) to pick us up from Nagato Yumoto JR Station in the late afternoon. This additional service is something that I am extremely appreciative of. One other scene I could vividly recall happened after our departure from Kokian. After we checked out of the ryokan, the staff drove us to the nearest bus stop to catch the bus heading for Akiyoshidou 秋芳洞. When the bus passed by Kokian, we were surprised to see two staff (including the well groomed uncle who chauffeured us on both days) stood by and waving to bade farewell to us!

Room. We were assigned to the room named Kirinso 麒麟草 located on the second floor of a separate building connected to the lobby via a sheltered walkway. Rooms on the ground floor, which are steeper in price, has a small pool extended in front of the patio - suitable for families with kids to play in. Room has both western and Japanese elements incorporated into its design. There are two double beds and for the third person and above, futons are placed on a tatami laid section of the room. There is a living room where an electrically operated fireplace, three-seater sofa, reclining armchair and coffee machine counter were spaciously arranged. The patio became my favourite spot in the room as I could enjoy the cool weather while relaxing on the rattan furniture here. Every room has a dedicated outdoor hot spring tub connected to the shower room, - this was where I had the luxury to enjoy a morning soak in my own private space before heading for breakfast. One other noteworthy mention was the high quality of fabrics used on the covers of sofa, cushions and blanket which were so smooth and comfortable to touch.

Hot spring. There are two bathhouses separated by gender named Karugamo (for gents) and Mimizu (for ladies). Each bathhouse has both indoor and outdoor section, and the size of the pools are way more spacious than I thought considering this is a boutique style accommodation. Adore the landscaping in the rotenburo (outdoor pool) where aesthetically pleasant water features such as water wall, stoned lined pool, etc were utilised. After an unwinding soak in the hot spring, guests can help themselves to ice-cream, cans of soft drink, calpis and green tea stored in the bar fridge located in the common resting area. There is also a foot bath situated just outside the main lobby building facing the huge grass carpeted compound. The water gushing out from the sources of Yuda Onsen is colourless and alkaline hot spring waters and can reach a maximum of 72 degC. Due to its alkaline nature, the hot spring waters nourishes and beautifies the skin. Apart from this therapeutic effect, it has been used to treat ailments such as neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain and recovery from exhaustion.

Extravagant meals. The greatest highlight of my stay at Kokian has got to be its extraordinary and exquisite meals prepared by the chef. I am honoured to have witness/experience for myself a masterly display of culinary skills and plating techniques by the kitchen to create a line up of dishes that intrigued my senses throughout the entire course of meal. This was truly an unforgettable dinning experience!

- Nakachoko 中猪口: Pickled wasabi with grilled yuba mochi (tofu skin), which is meant to be a palate cleanser dish.  

- Appetiser 前菜: Shrimp, fish pickled with nanban sauce, vegetable and salmon maki, broad bean, carrot castella.

- Sashimi 造里: Tiger prawn, sea bream, maguro, flounder, amberjack, squid and white clam. The small cube of maguro was the best out of all and it literally "melted" in my mouth. 

- Oshinogi お凌ぎ: Three vegetable nigiri sushi - bamboo shoot, ginger and hanakori 花っこりー, a hybrid between choy sum and broccoli cultivated in Yamaguchi Prefecture. The term "oshinogi" is something new to me. After some research, I found out it means food to surpass hunger and is usually one of the first few dishes served at the start of the kaiseki course.

- Nimono (stewed dish) 煮物: Tender stewed pork with potato sauce.
- Suimono 小吸物: Clear broth soup infused with the sweetness of sea urchin (or uni) and leek.
- Nabemono (hot pot) 鍋物: Soy milk hot pot with ingredients such as sea bream, scallop, squid, John Dory, lettuce, potherb mustard (suzuna), Shimeji mushroom, Shiitake mushroom, Enoki mushroom, carrot and onion.

- Agemono (fried dish) 揚げ物: Fried tempura of Japanese whiting, fiddlehead greens and young corn.
- Sunomono (vingeared dish) 酢の物: Thinly sliced anago served with cucumber wave garnish, wakame seaweed and ginger. There was one joke which arose to this dish. In the menu, the kanji for this dish was written as 蛇腹 (pronounced as "jabara"). In Mandarin, it means snake stomach and I was startled thinking that there was snake meat in it! After clarifying with the waiter, I realized it was referring to the wave like decorative cutting of the cucumber garnish.
- Yosara (western dish) 洋皿: Yuda roast wagyu beef tenderloin.
- Tomewan (last dish served with rice and tsukemono) 留椀: Shijimi clams in red miso paste soup.

- Kanmi (sweets) 甘味: Scoop of handmade ice-cream.

Typical Japanese style breakfast was served on the following morning - grilled fish being the main dish. Ended my meal with a delicious piece of mille crepe cake, accompanied with coffee/tea. Yet another moment of indulgence!

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Yuda Onsen Kokian 湯田温泉 古稀庵
〒753-0056 山口県山口市湯田温泉2-7-1
http://kokian.co.jp/
Contact number: (+81)083-920-1810
Email:info@kokian.co.jp

How to get there?
(1) By foot. About 10 minutes walk from Yuda Onsen JR Station 湯田温泉駅.

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Video: An introductory video on Kokian.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Yuda Onsen JR Station 湯田温泉駅

Yuda Onsen JR Station (湯田温泉駅) is a train station located along Yamaguchi line. As the name suggests, this is the train station nearest to Yuda Onsen. By local train, it takes about 20 minutes to commute from Shin Yamaguchi JR Station, a major train station served by Sanyo Shinkansen, to Yuda Onsen. Due its accessibility by various mode of transportation, this is one of the more popular hot spring district in Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Limited express and sightseeing trains serving Yuda Onsen JR Station include:
(1) Limited Express Super Oki (おき), commutes between Tottori and Shin Yamaguchi, via Kurayoshi, Yonago, Matsue, Izumo-shi, Masuda, Tsuwano, Yamaguchi and Yuda Onsen.

(2) SL Yamaguchi (SLやまぐち号) is a sightseeing train driven by a steam locomotive and commutes between Shin Yamaguchi and Tsuwano. The train usually operates on weekends and public holidays, and makes one round trip on its day of operation.
- 8521 Train: Shin Yamaguchi (1050 hrs) > Yuda Onsen (1106 hrs) > Tsuwano (1259 hrs)
- 8522 Train: Tsuwano (1545 hrs) > Yuda Onsen (1714 hrs) > Shin Yamaguchi (1730 hrs)
SL Yamaguchi: http://www.c571.jp/

Top left: Bade farewell to SL Yamaguchi; Bottom right: A 26 feet tall adorable looking white fox monument welcomes visitors to Yuda Onsen. 

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What's nearby?

(1) Yuda Onsen 湯田温泉

Yuda Onsen JR Station is actually not located at the heart of Yuda Onsen; the main street (San-in Road (山陰道) where hotels/ryokan and other facilities such as footbaths and Tourism Center are located along is about 10 minutes walk away from the train station. Upon exiting from the train station, walk straight and you will pass by Inoue Park (井上公園) and eventually see a Lawson convenience store along San-in Road. For our trip, we stayed at Kokian (古希庵) for a night and requested for them to pick us up from the train station. Having said that, I tried to walk from Kokian to the train station on the following morning after breakfast and it was quite manageable.  

Yuda Onsen: http://www.yudaonsen.com/

(2) Footbath (or ashiyu) just right beside the train station.
It is always welcoming to see a footbath upon reaching/exiting a train station. This is especially so after I have walked long distances over extended period of time. Soaking into the footbath helps to soothe the leg muscles and ease the ache. After multiple visits to Japan, I have also make it a point to put a towel into my bag which is used to wipe my feet after soaking them into a footbath, if I ever get to encounter one anytime during my journey. The location where the footbath is situated in this instance was also a thoughtful one because you can get an unobstructed view of trains passing by the station while enjoying a foot therapy.

Legend says. There is a gigantic monument of a white fox, standing at 26 feet tall (close to 8 m) and weighing 3 tons, erected beside the footbath. Apart from this. we also noticed that there were numerous statues of fox placed in different parts of the hot spring town during our exploration. Not that Yuda Onsen is or once was a breeding ground for fox but legend says that the discovery of Yuda Onsen is linked to a white fox. Long ago, a white fox would visit a small pond in Yuda every night to bathe his sore feet in the water. A Buddhist priest was bewildered by this unusual sight and went to scoop some water from the pond. That was how the hot spring source was discovered. 

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Commemorative stamp: 

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Taikodani Inari Jinja (Taikodani Inari Shrine) 太皷谷稲成神社

Visited 25.04.2015 (Sat)

First. Though I have visited Japan multiple times. I have never been to Kyoto. However, I have come across numerous photos depicting the rows of vermilion torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷神社), an important Shinto shrine in Kyoto, and I have always wanted to see it for myself. Here at Tsuwano-cho, my dream came true partially at Taikodani Inari Jinja, as it bears some similarities to the former in terms of the long road of vibrant torii gates leading to a shrine.

Background. Taikodani Inari Jinja was founded in 1773 and is named one of Japan's top five inari shrines. It is said that many people made the trip here to pray for business prosperity, huge agricultural harvest and fulfillment of wishes. The two deities which are being worshipped here are Ukanomidama-kami 宇迦の御霊神, a deity in Japanese mythology that is associated with food and agriculture, and Izanaginomikoto 伊弉諾尊, another deity in Japanese mythology is is said to have created the islands of Japan together with with Izanami 伊弉冉.

The first torii of Taikodani Inari Jinja.

Official starting point of the climb uphill.

Rewarding. After a leisure stroll along Tonomachi-dori 殿町通り, we headed towards for Taikodani Inari Jinja as planned. When we reached the first torii after crossing the road junction, I "innocently" thought the shrine should be somewhere nearby. After a couple of minutes walk, we arrived at the first vermilion torii and realised this marks the start of the climb uphill. There are about 1,000 vermilion torii gates forming a winding tunnel all the way from the base of the hill to the shrine. Though the distance is only about 300 m, it can be physically exhausting to overcoming the multiple flight of stairs before reaching the final destination. For course, you can stop every now and then to rest and to capture shots of the torri gates in the meantime. In the pursuit of gaining elevation, I was excited to see a clearer overview of the surrounding natural landscape gradually. Visitors who persevered are eventually rewarded by a panoramic view of Tsuwano-cho at the shrine!

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Taikodani Inari Jinja (Taikodani Inari Shrine) 太皷谷稲成神社
〒699-5605 島根県鹿足郡津和野町後田409
Free admission.
http://taikodani.jp/

How to get there?

(1) By foot. Approx. 30 mins walk from Tsuwano JR Station 津和野駅.

Chugoku Sanyo, San-in 中国地方山陽、山陰 - Tsuwano JR Station 津和野駅, Tonomachi-dori 殿町通り, Tsuwano Catholic Church 津和野カトリック教会

Tsuwano JR Station (津和野駅) is a train station on the Yamaguchi line. From Shin Yamaguchi JR Station, we boarded SL Yamaguchi train, crossed the prefectural border between Yamaguchi and Shimane and eventually arrived at the terminus station in Tsuwano-cho, which is referred to as the “little Kyoto of San’in region”, after a two hours long journey. In my impression, this is a very peaceful and quaint remote town surrounded by mountainous landscape, making it an excellent getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. In fact, I would have missed out visiting Tsuwano-cho if not for SL Yamaguchi. Glad that I made it here eventually to uncover this paradise in San'in region.

Tsuwano-cho Tourism Association: http://tsuwano-kanko.net/en/

Limited express trains serving this station include:
(1) Limited Express Super Oki (おき), commutes between Tottori and Shin Yamaguchi, via Kurayoshi, Yonago, Matsue, Izumo-shi, Masuda, Tsuwano, Yamaguchi and Yuda Onsen.

(2) SL Yamaguchi (SLやまぐち号) , a steam locomotive driven sightseeing train which operates on weekends and public holidays, and makes one round trip between Shin Yamaguchi and Tsuwano.

• 8521 Train: Shin Yamaguchi (1050 hrs) > Yuda Onsen (1106 hrs) > Tsuwano (1259 hrs)
• 8522 Train: Tsuwano (1545 hrs) > Yuda Onsen (1714 hrs) > Shin Yamaguchi (1730 hrs)

SL Yamaguchi: http://www.c571.jp/

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What's nearby?

Picturesque sight!

(1) Tonomachi-dori 殿町通り, about 10 minutes walk from train station.
This is the most scenic spot in Tsuwano-cho, which gave rise to the name "little Kyoto of San'in region". Tsuwano-cho once flourished as a castle town and remains of samurai residences, recognised by the white walls, lined along this street. The approximately 200 m long, spacious stone-paved road with ginkgo trees planted along its sides is a pretty sight to behold and capture under the lens.

What I felt most intriguing was seeing numerous koi fishes swimming in the long stretch of canal along the street! We were truly surprised by this unusual sight and like many visitors, we stood or squatted near the canal to admire these colourful fishes swimming gracefully in the waters for quite some time before heading towards the direction of Taikodani Inari Shrine. The street was much livelier on the weekend as most visitors came here via SL Yamaguchi train just like us. There are shops nearby where visitors can purchase fish food (100 yen/packet) from to feed the koi fishes. Purple and white irises planted in the canal bloom from late May to mid June, enhancing the beauty of this street further.

(2) Tsuwano Catholic Church 津和野カトリック教会, about 8 minutes walk from train station.
Opening hours: 0800 - 1730 hrs; Nov - Mar: 0800 - 1700 hrs
http://www.sun-net.jp/~otome/

This church with a western Gothic architecture outlook comes into sight when you crossed over from Honmachi-dori (本町通り) to Tonomachi-dori. Founded by a German priest in 1931, one feature unique to this church is that conventional pews or long benches are replaced with tatami mats here. With sufficient sunlight coming through the stained glasses, bright and beautiful colours are imprinted temporarily onto the tatami mats creating a mesmerising kaleidoscopic effect. Do remember to observe silence in the church while admiring the fine architectural features closely.

(3) Taikodani Inari Shrine 太鼓谷稲荷神社, one of Japan's five most important inari shine is about 30 minutes walk from train station.
http://taikodani.jp/

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Commemorative stamp: