Chubu 2016 中部の旅 - Hotaka Station 穂高駅, Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社

Hotaka Station 穂高駅 is a train station located along Oito line 大糸線 in Azumino city 安曇野市. The city lies east of the Northern Alps and is blessed with abundance of mountain spring water, favouring the cultivation of rice, soba, wasabi, apples, etc. For my trip, I came to Azumino to visit two of its well known places of interest, Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社 and Daio Wasabi Farm 大王わさび農場. However, I hope to return to this city again after discovering that it has so much more to offer, especially the beautiful scenery of vast agricultural fields and mountainous landscape. The tranquil environment here also saw the birth of numerous art museums, such as Tokuzan Art Museum 碌山美術館, Azumino Arthills Museum 安曇野アートヒルズミュージアム and Azumino Chihiro Art Museum 安曇野ちひろ美術館.

Trains serving this train station include:
(1) Limited Express Azusa あずさ, commuting between Shinjuku 新宿駅 and Minami Otari 南小谷駅, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
(2) Resort View Furusato リゾートビューふるさと, a seasonal train commuting between Nagano and Minami Otari, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
Website: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/resortfuru.html

Limited Express Azusa.

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What’s nearby?

(1) Bus stop, in front of the train station.
Bus services:
- Azumino Shuyu Bus East Loop Daio line あずみ野周遊バス 東回り 大王線, departing Hotaka Station for Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社 and Daio Wasabi Farm 大王わさび農場.
- Azumino Shuyu Bus West Loop Chibiro Alps Park line あずみ野周遊バス 西回り ちひろ アルプス公園線, departing Hotaka Station for Alps Azumino National Government Park 国営アルプスあづみの公園, Azumino Arthills Museum 安曇野アートヒルズミュージアム and Azumino Chihiro Art Museum 安曇野ちひろ美術館.
Both bus services are available between 3 July to 31 November - daily during the summer season; on weekends and public holidays outside of summer season.
https://www.azumino-e-tabi.net/transportation/azumino-excursionbus
http://www.azumikanko-taxi.co.jp/2011/02/040-03.html

(2) Tourist information center 安曇野市観光案内所, located beside the train station.

(3) Hotaka Jinja 穂高神社, 3 mins walk from the train station.
Surrounded by towering cedar trees, this beautiful wood constructed shrine is where Wadatsumi no Mikoto 綿津見命, a sea deity and ancestor of Azumi clan (who migrated from northern Kyushu to Azumino) and Hotakami no Mikoto 穂高見命 are enshrined. One trivia about Azumino is that there are many Dosojin 道祖神 or traveller's guardian deity being worshipped in this city. Keep a lookout for a huge stainless steel Dosojin (depicting an old couple), which was erected in the premises of Hotaka Jinja in 2013 (Heisei 25), to commemorate the people of Nagano Prefecture achieving the highest life expectancy in Japan. Hotaka Station building was also inspired by this shrine which explained why its exterior bears some resemblances as well.
http://www.hotakajinja.com/index.html

Stainless steel Dosojin depicting an old couple, symbolising good health, longevity and loving marriage/relationship.

(4) Tokuzan Art Museum 碌山美術館, 7 mins walk from the train station.
From its outwards appearance, one may mistaken this building as a church. This art museum, nearest to the train station, is dedicated to the works of Moriye Ogihara 荻原守衛 (Rokuzan 碌山), a sculptor who was born in Azumino and brought modern western style bronze sculpture to Japan. Turn left after exiting from the train station and keep a lookout for a brick path which will lead to the art museum.
http://rokuzan.jp/



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Commemorative stamp:

Chubu 2016 中部の旅 - Hakuba Station 白馬駅

Hakuba Station 白馬駅 is a train station located along the Oito line 大糸線. The 105.4 km railway line connects Matsumoto Station 松本駅 in Nagano Prefecture to Itoigawa Station 糸川駅 in Niigata Prefecture. Hakuba-mura 白馬村 lies east of Ushirotateyama mountain range 後立山連峰 which forms a section of the bigger Northern Alps and Hakuba Happo-one Snow Resort 白馬八方尾根スキー場 was one of the venues in Nagano Prefecture which hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. Came to Hakuba because I wanted to visit Happo-ike 八方池, a small lake located 2,060 m above sea level in which the reflection of the three peaks of Hakuba 白馬三山 (Shirouma dake 白馬岳 - 2,932 m, Hakubayariga dake 白馬鑓ヶ岳 - 2,903 m and Shakushi dake 杓子岳 - 2,812 m) can be clearly seen on its water surface on a good day.





Trains serving this train station include:
(1) Limited Express Azusa あずさ, commuting between Shinjuku 新宿駅 and Minami Otari 南小谷駅, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
(2) Resort View Furusato リゾートビューふるさと, a seasonal train commuting between Nagano and Minami Otari, stopping by stations such as Matsumoto 松本駅, Hotaka 穂高駅, Shinano Omachi 信濃大町駅 and Hakuba 白馬駅.
Website: https://www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/resortfuru.html



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What's nearby?

(1) Bus stop, in front of the train station.
Bus services:
- Alpico Bus Hakuba Station - Hakuba Happo - Tsugaike line (白馬駅 - 白馬八方 - 栂池線)
- Alpico Bus Hakuba Station - Hakuba Happo - Sakurawa line (白馬駅 - 白馬八方 - 猿倉線)
Bus schedule: https://www.alpico.co.jp/traffic/local/hakuba/
* Both buses stop at Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal 白馬八方バスタミナール, the nearest bus stop to Happo Gondola Lift Happo Station 八方ゴンドラリフト八方駅. From the bus stop, it takes another 15 minutes to walk to Happo Station.

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Commemorative stamp:

Chubu 2016 中部の旅 - Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu 寄り付き料理 蔵部

Visited 17.10.2016 (Mon)



Rustic. Lunch was the first thing on our mind when we reached Obuse. Came to Kurabu 蔵部, a restaurant occupying a portion of the sake warehouse of Masuich Ichimura Sake Brewery 桝一市村酒造場. Kurabu serves yoritsuki ryori 寄り付き料理, a term used to describe the meals that are prepared for the people who had to work and stay in the brewery during the winter months. The restaurant aims to bring out the best in locally sourced ingredients using simple cooking methods, an important element of yoritsuki ryori. Stepped into the former warehouse with traditional "kawara" style roof and was greeted by a rustic ambience. The open kitchen concept draws the diners closer to the chefs, as well as the delectable aroma of food that are prepared upon order. Staying true to its traditional roots, Kurabu even has a kamado 竈, a traditional Japanese charcoal or wood fired stove, which they use to cook rice in a copper pot, just like how it was prepared for the sake brewing workers in the old days.





On the day of our visit, there were four mains to choose from its lunch menu and all the mains are served with rice cooked using kamado, miso soup and side dish.
- Thinly sliced layered roast Shinshu beef 信州産牛肩ロース重ね焼
- Roast miyuki pork marinated in miso and sake lees みゆき豚ロース味噌酒粕漬焼
- Sashimi platter comprised of three different types of fish お造り三種盛り
- Grilled fish of the day 本日の焼魚

Conventional washoku meal: sashimi platter served with rice, miso soup and side dish

Back to basics. Had the sashimi platter for myself and ordered the grilled fish of the day for my parents. The sashimi platter comprised of fresh catch of the day - Kanpachi 勘八 (greater amberjack/yellowtail), red seabream 真鯛 and salmon サイモン, and salmon was served as the grilled fish of the day accompanied with salad. Though there are no complex seasoning to overwhelm the palette, these simple washoku (Japanese cuisine) are equally satisfying and are apt testaments to what "less is more" meant. Looking back at all the Japanese food I have eaten before, fresh sashimi together with fragrant Japanese rice is one of my favourite comfort food that I will crave for every now and then.





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Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu 寄り付き料理 蔵部
長野県上高井郡小布施町大字小布施807
Operating hours: 1100 - 2200 hrs (last order at 2000 hrs)
https://www.obusekurabu.com/

How to get there?
10 mins walk from Nagaden Obuse Station 長電小布施駅.

Chubu 2016 中部の旅 - Yawataya Isogorou Honten 八幡屋礒五郎 本店, Yokomachi Cafe 横町カフェ

Visited 16.10.2016 (Sun)





Essential. After visiting Zenkoji, as it was still too early to have dinner, we decided to rest our legs in one of the cafes in the vicinity. Came to Yokomachi Cafe 横町カフェ, a cafe attached to Yawataya Isogorou Main Shop 八幡屋礒五郎 本店. Wataya Isogorou is well known for their shichimi togarashi 七味唐からし, a spice mixture which is an important condiment in every Japanese household. Personally, I like a dash of shichimi togarashi in my bowl of udon to add a tint of spiciness and enhance the flavours of the soup. The main ingredients of Wataya Isogorou's shichimi togarashi are chili pepper 唐辛子, dried citrus peel 陳皮, seasame seed 胡麻, hemp seed 麻種 (otane), shiso 紫蘇, Japanese pepper 山椒 (sansho) and ginger 生姜, and the ingredients may differ from places to places. In the past, there was an old saying that buying a can of their brand's shichimi togarashi served as a proof that one has visited Zenkoji. Till today, Wataya Isogorou's spice mixtures are popular items and souvenirs that travellers will bring back home with after visiting Zenkoji.

Yawataya Isogorou has been around since 1736, when the founder first started selling shichimi togarashi around Zenkoji. The main shop was established in 1952 (Showa 27) and underwent renovation in 2008 (Heisei 20). The shop looked like a kura (traditional Japanese style warehouse) and is easily identifiable by two gigantic chilies hung on both sides of its main entrance. Was surprised to see quite a number of people shopping inside the shop and this goes to show how popular their products were. Walked through the small crowd to come to Yokomachi Cafe, which is located behind the shop. In contrast to the shop's traditional exterior, the cafe took on a modern and chic design. On every table, there are a total of eight different cans of spice mixtures which patrons can test on their food to determine which best suit their taste.

Spice macarons. Apart from desserts and drinks, Yokomachi Cafe also serves several types of curries, such as beef curry, butter chicken curry and vegetable curry, which are suitable for a lunch appetite. We ordered two sets of desserts to share, accompanied with coffee and tea. Both desserts were seasonal items introduced during autumn - crispy and fragrant chocolate chip scones which were baked with honey and eaten together with cream, chocolate sauce and yuzu powder (650 yen), and a set of miso flavoured cakes and macarons made from sweet potatoes and sesame (480 yen). In fact, macarons is one of their signature items and the flavours of these macrons are definitely not the typical ones we get from our usual sweets and confectionery shops. Was surprised to find out that the flavours included the seven ingredients of shichimi togarashi, such as chili pepper, ginger and sansho. The shells of the macarons are made from almond powder and meringue, with butter cream sandwiched between the shells. Was not adventurous enough to try out the spice macarons at that point of time and went for the safer option (sweet potatoes). Have made a mental note to try them the next time I visit Nagano again.





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Yawataya Isogorou Honten 八幡屋礒五郎 本店, Yokomachi Cafe 横町カフェ
長野県長野市横町86-1
Opening hours: 1000 - 1900 hrs (last order at 1830 hrs)

http://yawataya.co.jp/yokomachi-cafe/

How to get there? 

(1) By bus. Board any bus from Nagano Station Zenkoji Exit 長野駅善光寺口 Bus Terminal Platform 1 and alight at Zenkoji Iriguchi 善光寺入口.

Chubu 2016 中部の旅 - Nagaden Obuse Station 長電小布施駅, Obusedo 小布施堂

Nagaden Obuse Station 長電小布施駅 (N15) is a train station along Nagaden Nagano line 長電長野線. Obuse machi 小布施町 is a town located northeast of Nagano city and it takes about 40 minutes to get here by train from Nagano. Obuse is well known for its high quality chestnut since the Edo period and the credits go to the acidic soil here which favours the growth and production of fragrant and sweet chestnuts. In this town, there are many shops offering a plethora of sweets created from chestnuts that will bound to make one spoilt for choice. Other than this famous agricultural produce, Obuse is also known as the place where Katsushika Hokusai 葛飾北斎, a renowned ukiyo-e printer during the Edo period, visited in his later years. Most of us may have come across images of this stunning woodblock print titled "The Great Wave of Kanagawa 神奈川沖浪裏" and this is one of Hokusai's most famous masterpiece in his career.

Trivia 1: A panoramic view of Hokushin gokaku 北信五岳 (five mountains of Hokushin) can be seen from the platform of Obuse Station. The five mountains are Myoko-san 妙高山, Madarao-yama 斑尾山, Kurohime-yama 黒姫山, Togakushi-yama 戸隠山 and Iizuna-yama 飯縄山.

Trivia 2: If the timing is right, you will be treated to a view of ripe apples in the farm located just behind the train station. 

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What’s nearby?

(1) Bus stop for Obuse Roman-go bus おぶせロマン号バス
This is a loop service that operates on weekends and public holidays between April and November. The bus departs from Obuse Park 小布施総合公園, stopping by Oirase Station 小布施駅, Hokusai Museum 北斎館, Obuse Museum おぶせミュージアム, Obuse Onsen おぶせ温泉, Floral Garden フローラルガーデン前, Jokoji 浄光寺 and makes the return route from Ganshoin 岩松院.
One day pass = 500 yen
* Pass can be purchased from Obuse Cultural Sightseeing Center 小布施文化観光協会 located within Obuse Station.
https://www.town.obuse.nagano.jp/docs/roman.html

Trivia 3:Some of the footpaths here are laid with wood obtained from thinned chestnut trees.

(2) Hokusai kan 北斎館, about 10 mins walk from the train station.

Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
Admission fee = 1,000 yen

https://hokusai-kan.com/

Established in 1976, the museum holds a collection of original artworks that Katsushika Hokusai left behind in Obuse. Two festival floats which the ceilings were painted by Hokusai (when he was around 85 - 86 years old) are also put up for display in the museum as well. Did not visit the museum due to time constraint.

(3) Obusedo Sanfuro 小布施堂 傘風楼, about 10 mins walk from the train station.
Operating hours: 0900 - 1700 hrs
https://obusedo.com/

Obusedo is a household name in the town, specialising in chestnut sweets and confectionary. After a satisfying lunch at Kurabu 蔵部 (a restaurant which is also managed by Obusedo), we dropped by Obusedo Sanfuro for desserts. We were eager to try chestnut sweets which Obuse is well known for and we each bought a chestnut flavoured ice-cream cone with chunks of chestnut in it. Very delectable and highly recommended!